Weldanpower 225 No Output

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My weldanpower 225 g6 quit welding tonight. I was 1/2 way through a stick of 6010, running about 94A and then i had no output. The motor runs fine, but it doesnt idle down like it is suppose to. I didnt have time to tear into it yet, figured id post here see if there is some easy solution i could try.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:First things to check are fuses F1 and F2 and the brushes.What's the unit code #?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Code 8824Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Don't worry about fuse F2.  Thinking about another machine.Do you have a VOM?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Yes I do, I was looking for previous posts with this problem, but didnt find anything specific, so i was hoping you were lurking in the dark waiting for a question like this, Im fairly confident you can help guide me through this, and thanks in advance. I wont have a chance to check anything else tonight, but if you give me a list of stuff to go over, I will hopefully have time tomorrow.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Well start with the basics.1) Check for any loose/burned/broken wires/connectors.2) Check the fine current control for an open.  Unhook the leads and check the resistance from minimum to maximum settings.  Should be smooth and even change from min to max.3) Check the course current selector switch and connections.  Did you try different settings?4) Check the polarity selector switch and connections.5) Check the output connections.6) Check the brushes to make sure they're free to move and not worn out.7) Check the rotor for open (or shorted) field windings.  Check resistance between slip rings (3-5 ohms) and from each slip ring to rotor shaft (no conductivity).Start with the above and let me know what you find.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:And considering you were using 6010 I would think you were running DCEP.  Does it weld in AC?If yes, you're looking at failed (open) weld output diodes.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Duane, I think i may have found the problem this afternoon. Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Everything else looked good. How hard is it to replace a slip ring? Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Yup, you sure did.  TJ (onanparts.com) has those and a motor shop should be able to change it out without much trouble once you pull the rotor.  Should be able to have the rotor out in under an hour.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Any tricks to getting the rotor out? Is the ring just press fit on, possible to do myself? And, is it worth it do do the bearings while im in there?Last edited by sidthss; 09-03-2009 at 07:07 PM.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Let's see if I can remember everything.1) You have to access the fan end of the unit to remove the thru-bolt and pull the fan off - which is keyed to the rotor shaft.2) Remove the brushes and brush holders.3) Unbolt the engine from the adapter plate.4) Seperate the rotor from the engine using a piece of 7/16" diameter rod with the end beveled to ~45 degrees to fit the counterbore of the crankshaft and protect it from damage.  Insert the rod thru the rotor shaft and seat it against the crank and strike the rod with a couple sharp blows of a large 2-3# hammer.5) Once seperated, remove the engine and extract the rotor from the stator housing which may require tapping on the bearing end to dislodge the rotor assembly from the endframe.  Be sure to protect the rotor shaft from damage by using a piece of hardwood or soft metal such as aluminum or brass.If you want to change the sealed bearing (should be #62042RS - also known simply as 204SS) you would do so when you put it back together.  Also give very serious consideration to changing the engine crankshaft seal too.  I know from experience now would be the time.  Reassemble in reverse order.As for changing the slip rings yourself, I'm sure you could do it but you'll have to be extremely careful to disconnect the winding wires from the old slip ring leads and properly attach and solder the new ones.  You'll also need to seal everything back up with a motor winding sealant.  If you decide to tackle it, record some reference dimensions to assure getting the slip rings positioned where they need to be for the brushes to line up as they should.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Ok, thanks a bunch duane, ill start tearin into her one of these days and see if the ol girl will come apart. Will try keep you posted as i go, and I think ill have a shop do the rings for me, sounds like to tricky of a process with no prior knowledge. Kind of spensive for the rings! Oh well, i guess i gotta do what i gotta do!Last edited by sidthss; 09-04-2009 at 12:02 AM.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:If Duane's method won't get the rotor to let go of the crank then it's plan B. Take a look here:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=22570The rotor bearing is a 6205RS Double seal style. Absolutely replace the bearing and the crank seal before putting it back together. Having a motor rewind shop do the RnR on the slip rings also means they will turn and true the rings too.Miller LegendMiller XMT 200Miller HF 251DMiller Spoolmatic 30AMillerTrailBlazer 250GLincoln LN 25Lincoln G9 ProLincWelder 225Lincoln Ranger 9Lincoln Ranger 275TJhttp://onanparts.com
Reply:Thanks for the 225G6 rotor bearing number clarification TJ and for pointing out the importance of having the slip rings turned true after installation.  I forgot about that part.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Thanks for the 225G6 rotor bearing number clarification TJ and for pointing out the importance of having the slip rings turned true after installation.  I forgot about that part.
Reply:Man,                      I dont know if i want to take duanes advice anymore,                  JUST KIDDING Duane!!!!! you have been very helpful here and i thank you for the help. I read somewhere that the rings must be turned, i guess i will just keep plugging away.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Originally Posted by sidthssI read somewhere that the rings must be turned,. . .
Reply:Yup, good chance thats where i have seen it.Miller Dynasty 300dxSpeedglas 9002XMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeLincoln PowerMig 255xtLincoln PowerMig 140cMilwuakee Portaband
Reply:Anytime the slip rings are replaced including when the rotor was first manufactured the rings have to be turned/machined "true". If not true with the rotor shaft the brushes will bounce resulting in intermittent contact. As in no output....Miller LegendMiller XMT 200Miller HF 251DMiller Spoolmatic 30AMillerTrailBlazer 250GLincoln LN 25Lincoln G9 ProLincWelder 225Lincoln Ranger 9Lincoln Ranger 275TJhttp://onanparts.com
Reply:HI Guys,I have a Lincoln Weldanpower 225 (model K1292 - serial 256365) with the similar cracked slip ring as above.  Do you know (TJ?) if slip rings are available for this model?  I hesitate to assume they are the same as ones for (SIDTHSS)'s machine.  Can I safely asume the rotor removal procedure is the same as above?  I have access to a machine shop and the machinists owe me endless favours - is true-ing up the rings after replacement a generic procedure or should it be done by a motor shop for any particular reason?Many thanks in advance for any & all assistance.CheersLB
Reply:Welcome to the forum LazyBear. May want ot act fast - TJ (onanparts.com) shows having just 1 set of new slip rings in stock.  You can order them on-line from his website http://onanparts.com/index.php?main_...ord=slip+rings.Unless your unit is the much older model, yes, the procedure would be the same as that of sidthss' unit and your machine shop guy can true them up just fine but you may want a motor shop do the replacement if you or he isn't comfortable doing it.I know you gave Model and Serial Number but do you have the 'Code' number?Last edited by duaneb55; 10-03-2009 at 08:06 PM.Reason: unit code number clarificationMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Without the code number I can't say for sure.Miller LegendMiller XMT 200Miller HF 251DMiller Spoolmatic 30AMillerTrailBlazer 250GLincoln LN 25Lincoln G9 ProLincWelder 225Lincoln Ranger 9Lincoln Ranger 275TJhttp://onanparts.com
Reply:HI Duane & TJ & all.I may have "OOOPS'd" the "model" number.The "K1292" is the "TYPE" - would that be the "CODE"?"AC-225 / DC-210 / 6" would be the MODEL number.Or perhaps I should be looking elsewhere for the "code"? Inside?Thanks in advance for your assistance.CheersLB Attached Images
Reply:LB, judging from the face plate I would say yes.  However, with your unit being of Canadian decent the 'Type' number is the equivalent to a US version 'Code' number.  Unfortunately, Lincoln's website doesn't allow for looking up the northern edition Type numbers.Your unit should look something like this http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM308.pdf only without the CV (Constant Voltage) tap per your face plate.  The Parts break-down is P-138 but it wouldn't open for some reason.Perhaps TJ or someone can shed more light on the subject.Edit: OK, got the P-138 Parts page to open http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...parts/P138.pdfLast edited by duaneb55; 10-05-2009 at 08:57 AM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!Originally Posted by LazyBearHI Guys,I have a Lincoln Weldanpower 225 (model K1292 - serial 256365) with the similar cracked slip ring as above.  Do you know (TJ?) if slip rings are available for this model?  I hesitate to assume they are the same as ones for (SIDTHSS)'s machine.  Can I safely asume the rotor removal procedure is the same as above?  I have access to a machine shop and the machinists owe me endless favours - is true-ing up the rings after replacement a generic procedure or should it be done by a motor shop for any particular reason?Many thanks in advance for any & all assistance.CheersLB
Reply:i know this is an old thread but duane you sound like the man that knows i hope your still around,my ranger 9 went down today with the same problem,welds on ac and all the gen recepticles work fine,fine tune knob works i can hear grinder slow when turned down,either i have a bad switch somewhere or something burned all to hell,i dont see any burnt rectifi parts laying in the bottom they all look good,my amp guage wires were loose but i tightened them and still no output ,zero not even a littlebitany suggestions? you said something about a weld output diode,where is that and what does it look like? theres so much stuff in there i couldnt tell a diode from a lightbulb ,anyways thanx man hope your still responding to these
Reply:Blackdog!You should see what looks like an aluminum plate, large, runs about the width of the welder, and probably somewhere near 10 inch wide across, it should be somewhere probably under where the back side of the selector knobs are, with what looks like large aluminum twisted cables coming out the top of a plug looking hex head that is about 1" in size.There is probably 4 of them, each should be connected to the selector switches in some way, probably a flat bar coming off of the selector switches, and bolted to the diodes twisted cable end.Hope this helps! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!