weldanpower troubles

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Hi, newbie here. I have a weldanpower with a 16hp single briggs and the carb seems to be shot. it will run for a minute or so and even weld before it falls on its face. a quick adjustment of the jet coming out of the card at an angle will make it run for a bit but then it happens again. I can't seem to find the carb anywhere. it was supposed to be rebuilt but I feel the shafts are so worn that it needs to be replaced. anybody have one of these carbs? it has a cast tube coming horizontal from the base then it has a shaft going vertical to the air cleaner. it is all one piece with a staked in round plate on the end. that is also worn and not sealing at all. other than that it looks like many of the briggs updraft carbs. the engine seems to be strong other wiseHELP!
Reply:If the carburetor was in fact just rebuilt it could be a misadjusted float level resulting in fuel starvation.Of course some people's definition of 'rebuilt' is take it apart, wash it in some mineral spirits parts cleaner or soapy water and put it back together which is nothing more than a 'washing' and not a rebuild.  Mineral spirits and other standard parts cleaners won't break down the lacquer/varnish left behind by old gas that can clog small fuel/air passages.  A good quality soak type carburetor cleaner is needed to do the job right.That said, I'd start with checking the float level adjustment first and to do so you have to disassemble the carb.  That jet adjustment that comes out of the bowl at an angle needs to be removed so that you can remove the main jet tube that extends up into the throttle body that the float secures to.Once you have the throttle body and bowl seperated, turn the throttle body upside down so the weight of the float is against the needle valve.  I don't have the specific float adjustment dimension handy but in the absence of said information adjusting the float so that the top side (facing down at this point) is parallel with the throttle body gasket surface.  If the float is too low (running upward at an angle from the pivot pin) there will be insufficient fuel in the bowl for proper operation.To adjust the float level, bend the tab on the float that pushes against the needle valve.  Remove the pivot pin to pull the float off for adjusting and take care not to loose the needle valve.  Be careful not to bend the flaot tab too much as it doesn't take much to make a change.Once you have the float parallel with the throttle body gasket surface with the tab resting against the needle valve, reassemble the carb, seat both the main and idle jet screws by turning them all the way in until they bottom out.  Be careful not to turn the idle screw in past bottoming out or you'll risk damaging the idle passage in the body.  Turn each adjusting screw out 1-1/2 turns for initial settings, reinstall the carb on the engine, hook everything back up and fire it up.  Once the engine warms up a bit you can fine tune the idle adjustment at low idle and the main jet adjustment at weld/power speed as needed.  Only small adjustments are needed as 1/8 turn either way can be the difference between good and bad.BTW, welcome to the forum. Last edited by duaneb55; 07-30-2010 at 08:13 PM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Here you go.  This is what I was talking about.http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/..._two_piece.aspMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by IndyHi, newbie here. I have a weldanpower with a 16hp single briggs and the carb seems to be shot. it will run for a minute or so and even weld before it falls on its face. a quick adjustment of the jet coming out of the card at an angle will make it run for a bit but then it happens again. I can't seem to find the carb anywhere. it was supposed to be rebuilt but I feel the shafts are so worn that it needs to be replaced. anybody have one of these carbs? it has a cast tube coming horizontal from the base then it has a shaft going vertical to the air cleaner. it is all one piece with a staked in round plate on the end. that is also worn and not sealing at all. other than that it looks like many of the briggs updraft carbs. the engine seems to be strong other wiseHELP!
Reply:I have learned some things, mainly that the problems my carb exhibits are not all that uncommon. and a full ebay check as well as several google searches come up with little to nothing. I want to buy a relativity new or NOS carbthe carb you see in this set of pics is the carb i needhttp://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...ce_flo-jet.asp
Reply:Yup, that's the one.  The link I posted was just the first one I came to that illustrated what I was describing.  The smaller carb is found on smaller units such as the 8HP.Your carb throttle shaft bores may be worn but I really don't think that's your problem.  Worn shafts will make them idle poorly or irratic but won't make them suddenly fall on their face at running speed.  I still think you have a float level or fuel supply issue (glogged fuel tank valve or dirty filter).I take it you're located in Indy.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I know this is going to sound strange at first but, one thing you may want to check is the fuel tank cap.The tank at startup will be equal to outside pressure, once you start the engine, it draws fuel by gravity feed, after a short time the feeding stops if the tanks cap vent holes are clogged causing the carb to become starved.Once the engine stops, it may only take a few seconds to a minute or two for the tank to basically burp itself and you would be able to start the engine again!Check the caps vent holes, use a needle or something small to make sure the vents are clear and try the engine again!You can for a test, just leave the cap off of the tank as long as there isn't a great deal of gas in the tank, if you are worried about anything getting into the tank, just lay a shop rag over the hole.I had this problem with a Simplicity garden tractor that had a single cylinder cast iron block briggs engine with that same updraft carb, it drove me nuts one day trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't stay running more than a minute or two!Good luck!Ken.Last edited by Ken Dennis; 08-01-2010 at 10:33 AM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Originally Posted by Ken DennisI know this is going to sound strange at first but, one thing you may want to check is the fuel tank cap.The tank at startup will be equal to outside pressure, once you start the engine, it draws fuel by gravity feed, after a short time the feeding stops if the tanks cap vent holes are clogged causing the carb to become starved.Once the engine stops, it may only take a few seconds to a minute or two for the tank to basically burp itself and you would be able to start the engine again!Check the caps vent holes, use a needle or something small to make sure the vents are clear and try the engine again!You can for a test, just leave the cap off of the tank as long as there isn't a great deal of gas in the tank, if you are worried about anything getting into the tank, just lay a shop rag over the hole.I had this problem with a Simplicity garden tractor that had a single cylinder cast iron block briggs engine with that same updraft carb, it drove me nuts one day trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't stay running more than a minute or two!Good luck!Ken.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55.I take it you're located in Indy.
Reply:Well the reason I asked is I would be willing to take a look at the carburetor for you if you wanted.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Well the reason I asked is I would be willing to take a look at the carburetor for you if you wanted.
Reply:Yes.  If you need references for assurance that you'll get it back I can give you several.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Yes.  If you need references for assurance that you'll get it back I can give you several.