7018 vertical up root pass critique

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105 amps root pass. Thanks for the advice. Attached Images
Reply:It's cold.  Did you whip and pause 7018?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:no, side to side.
Reply:I run mine at 115 amps. It ties in a little better and is a bit flatter. You might expect with that weld a root separation on the bend.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Faster across the middle and pause on the sides
Reply:Originally Posted by Gjertsonno, side to side.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPYou are still too cold. Does your machine have arc force?
Reply:Watch these two videos mate, then report back.~John
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveMan that's nice.You must have snuck in and used my Airco, it has so much experience that it runs those on auto-pilot while I drink coffeeI like 125 amps as well, I find it's easier to run stringers at that amperage, less amps and it doesn't flow well for me.
Reply:Up your amps 5. 115 is good for the root. Hold your sides a wee bit longer. You can run up to 125 for the cap but not the root. You will know if your too hot at the top. It will start to dig and you will loose control of the puddle.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPYou know I'm not sure which machine I used! It might have been the PowerArc 300. I need to start writing down which machine I use.It really doesn't make much difference to me, stringers or weave, I could care less.
Reply:Amperage recommendations are generally all over the place.  Do what works for you.115-125 is a pretty wide range when going uphill.  It can be the difference between burning thru thinner material, and making a good weld.Burn hot enough that you see undercut at the sides of the weld.  Pause to fill the undercut, then move fast across to the other side, and do same.  It becomes a smooth flow after practice.  Everyone does it different to some degree.  It's mostly about controlling the puddle as you pull it uphill.1/8 rod:You can try something on the order of 90amps, then progress upwards in amps as your control gets better.  Difference in amps translates to the speed of metal deposition.  As you get better you will be able to deposit more metal, and faster.  You'll generally wind up around 115amps on 1/4-3/8 material.  Uphill requires less amps because it's slow, and the heat builds in the metal as you progress upwards.  125amps works well on 1/2, and thicker material.3/32 rod:Start it out at around 75amps, and learn to control it.  Then move up to 85ish amps for better welds.  You'll find that 3/32 will be your rod of choice for 3/16-1/4 material.  It just runs better on thinner stuff.You'll find that keeping the arc tight will give better control, and when you come to this point you'll find that you will want to increase amperage to prevent the arc from drowning in the puddle.  It's simply a learning process."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:This is a very helpful thread.  Thanks all.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:I would say run hotter and slow down.any guys have a hard time getting 7018 to flatten out. They turn down and run to cold. Got to have some heat. I know lots of places letYou run a weave like CEP posted  but some want it to looks just like a wider version of a stringer.  Not bashing it is a nicely done weld. I for one can't do that. Try more heat I run my 1/8 very up at 130 or so on my vantage and keep the arc tight. This pic isn't vert up its a branch connection 12 on 12 pipe. The weld is about 3/4 of an inch wide. I used 5/32 esab at about 140 or so amps. Right and left side. And an example of what might get you run off from my jobLast edited by specopswelder; 11-17-2014 at 10:02 PM.
Reply:Let me guess. API 1104 multiple qualification right?
Reply:Taz00 you are correct.  API 1104. Lohi root to cap. I 3 stringer cap that  to finish up. To get multiple qualified we do the same with cellulose.Last edited by specopswelder; 11-18-2014 at 06:43 AM.
Reply:Thanks. I have a question for you.According to API 1104 it is the welder who must lay out, cut and fit the 2 pieces.In your experience are there occasions where you are allowed to have you pipefitter prepare the branch connection or do you actually have to do all that by yourself?
Reply:specopswelder, WOW! That is some beautiful welding! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Taz00 It is the welder who must lay out and cut the pieces. A helper/fitter can grind them. Lots of company's will let you use a template. Where some will make you lay it all out on the pipe and cut it.  If it is just am update they tend to be a little more relaxed. We do this test once a year no matter how many welds we do. CEP thanks I wish I had taken a picture of it all finished.
Reply:Thanks a lot for the reply and apologies to the OP for the thread hijacking.
Reply:Here is another try at 115. Thanks for all the help Attached Images
Reply:Your travel speed up is just a tad to fast. And hold a little longer on the sides. Might want to go up a few more amps too.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Look like you could tighten up your vert step. I try to tap each side of the joint twice. The. Skip across the the middle to the other.