welding laser cut edges on aluminum

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I have some more post caps to make, and I'd like to get my blanks cut at a laser cutter.  I'm using .100" 3003-H14 and its all outside corner welds.  Does the aluminum come off the laser cutter with ready to weld edges? At least as ready to weld as sheared edges are?  I don't want to place the order and end up filing dross off of 42 linear feet of weld joint.  Anyone have experience with this??
Reply:I had some 1/16" 3003 cut recently. Pretty clean except where the 1/16" half moons are. The back side of those was a bit rough. Hit it with a vixen file and its fine or just weld it. I think an outside corner will be fine. Have them show you a scrap off their cutter.
Reply:I only filed it to protect my hands a bit as i am torturing it pretty hard. It is also hard to wipe down with acetone having a little sharp stuff on the back because it shreds the rag.
Reply:In the past I've welded up a bunch of small aluminum part that had been laser cut but they'd all been run thru a vibratory deburring set up.  So I can't speak to welding to an as cut laser edge.   Lately I've been welding on a lot of water jet cut aluminum parts.  The only prep I usually do is remove that sharp little burr it leaves on the back side.  And that only mainly because it's hard on the hands while handling and some times interferes with the fit up.  I have melted that little burr right into the weld with out problem on occasion.Usually all it takes is one quick swipe down the edge with one of these to get rid of the burr.
Reply:One thing you might check into---water jet instead of laser.  The reason is, sheet can be stacked in a water jet so multiple pieces can be cut at the same time whereas you can't stack when doing laser cuts.At times, this can get the cost down while giving a better edge finish.  All depends on the parts, tolerance, and quantity.
Reply:Originally Posted by KozmoOne thing you might check into---water jet instead of laser.  The reason is, sheet can be stacked in a water jet so multiple pieces can be cut at the same time whereas you can't stack when doing laser cuts.At times, this can get the cost down while giving a better edge finish.  All depends on the parts, tolerance, and quantity.
Reply:I don't know about the cutting, but I'd recommend 90 to 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol...available at your local grocery store or pharmacy), instead of acetone.  Much better for you and the environment--and one of the best solvents/degreasers around, for very little money.KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI vote heck no on water jet cuts. Hate em! Contaminated edges from all the mixed crap that's in the water bath. On aluminum esp thin gauge it's a f'n nightmare sometimes unless it comes from a aluminum specific water jet machine. I never turn down any jobs, but I deal with some places that just drive me insane. Especially when the fit up is perfect and everything looks so new and pretty. I hate water jet on aluminum. Just my experience tho.
Reply:Mike, having worked in a shop with 2 waterjets, ask them to run it so the plate isn't submerged if you're that concerned about it.I've welded a ton of stuff that had come off a water jet. Fit up was beautiful, and there is usually not much of a burr to speak of, love those machines!Miller Spoolmate 200 w/t S-52 WirefeederMM 211'09 Miller Trailblazer 302