Cutting square tubing with a 14" abrasive saw

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I tried cutting some 2x2 1/8" wall tubing the other day with a 14" abrasive saw. Results were dead square in the horizontal after a slight adjustment, and between 1/16 -  3/32" out of square in the vertical. I changed the disc to a brand new 1/8" diablo, and went REALLY slowly, a bit better but still lackluster. I also, secured the tubing in the clamp and used a square on top of the tubing to verify the blade wasn't crooked, and it looked to square. I must be getting some deflection. I bought a 3/32 thick disc for kicks yesterday. Should I try that?My next attempt will be to slightly angle the 2x2 by propping up one side with a spacer so the disc isn't trying to cut through the entire bottom wall at the same time. I can imagine a scenario where the blade is getting flexed to the side when trying to cut that bottom wall. How long should it take to hack through a 2x2?My cheapo HF bandsaw takes a while, but the results is almost perfectly square.. with maybe a slight angle resulting in < 32nd of gap in the vertical. I can probably live with that. The problem is the steel is one place and the saw is in another.ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:[IMG][/IMG]You might need to adjust the Clamp front or back so that the blade is coming down straight on to the material.Most of the threads about the blade deflection comes from the clamp being in the wrong position on the base.You should be able to cut through 2x2 x 1/8" rather quickly.You don't want to go too slow because you'll glaze up the blade.Last edited by Broccoli1; 10-30-2012 at 11:50 AM.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by BlauSchuhI tried cutting some 2x2 1/8" wall tubing the other day with a 14" abrasive saw. Results were dead square in the horizontal after a slight adjustment, and between 1/16 -  3/32" out of square in the vertical. I changed the disc to a brand new 1/8" diablo, and went REALLY slowly, a bit better but still lackluster. I also, secured the tubing in the clamp and used a square on top of the tubing to verify the blade wasn't crooked, and it looked to square. I must be getting some deflection. I bought a 3/32 thick disc for kicks yesterday. Should I try that?My next attempt will be to slightly angle the 2x2 by propping up one side with a spacer so the disc isn't trying to cut through the entire bottom wall at the same time. I can imagine a scenario where the blade is getting flexed to the side when trying to cut that bottom wall. How long should it take to hack through a 2x2?My cheapo HF bandsaw takes a while, but the results is almost perfectly square.. with maybe a slight angle resulting in < 32nd of gap in the vertical. I can probably live with that. The problem is the steel is one place and the saw is in another.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1[IMG][/IMG]You might need to adjust the Clamp front or back so that the blade is coming down straight on to the material.Most of the threads about the blade deflection comes from the clamp being in the wrong position on the base.You should be able to cut through 2x2 x 1/8" rather quickly.You don't want to go too slow because you'll glaze up the blade.
Reply:$100 chop saws are not going to give you a good cut period. I started with a shop saw years ago and found I had to scribe a line all the way around the tube using a speed square @ 90 or 45* or whatever angle, cut the tubing with the slop saw and then grind the Sh!tty cut down using the scribe marks as my guide. it was a real pain. no way around it. the blade just deflects too much. buy a speed square, a scribe and grinding discs to manually make up for what you saw cannot do and rejoice with all the $ you saved on your saw
Reply:Dry cut saws are amazing tools.  They beat abrasive saws hands down for accuracy of cut and cut speed in my opinion.  The cuts are beautiful and they cut way down on my prep time (i.e. Fit-up).   As nothing is free .... that cut accuracy and time savings comes at a price ....  Dry cut saws aren't cheap and neither are the blades.  But in my opinion it's well worth the additonal cost and time savings you gain by having one.That kid in the picture needs to be wearing some socks if he's going to be doing that.
Reply:Most abrasive saws have a stamped steel table, which will deform and bend resulting in the bad cut.  The only Cast iron rigid table I found was JET.  But since then, I too switched to dry cut 12" Makita and save the abrasive saw for hardened steel or hydraulic cylinder rods.    You know the jet was made overseas because the label says "Avoid eye injuly", gotta love it! So, as not to upset OSHA, I only use it 11 months out of the year.
Reply:On my abrasive saw i found that getting good wheels made a big difference. I have not used a diablo, so couldn't tell how well they work, but I can say that everything i tried from the home despot was crap, including the expensive hilti branded ones. I have had the best results with flexovit.Also, brand new wheels tend to make the worst cuts, when they get a little smaller they made much straighter cuts. When I need higher accuracy, I buy 12" wheelsIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Want a square cut? You will not get that with an abrasive chop saw.A band saw will give you the results your looking for.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720