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Forney 100ST - 90 Amp Stick machine. 8 Pounds with Lift Tig @ ~$150 (less w/ coupon)!

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:10:51 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Linky:  http://www.sears.com/forney-298-arc-...3&blockType=G3Mfr Linky:  https://www.forneyind.com/store/deta...lder_120v_90a/I just ordered this machine.  I was about to buy a new (old stock) Forney AT-100 on eBay by submitting a Best Offer.  But since the ebay listing had a different model listed for that machine that I hadn't really noticed before (100SP), I figured I'd search one more time for a cheaper seller with the AT-100SP.  Somehow I saw that Forney has a NEW machine, called the 100ST, or SKU # 298 .  Very exciting!This thing weighs 8 pounds, and actually has "Lift Tig" functionality versus having to deal with scratch start on the older Forney.  The 100ST is clearly labeled as being manufactured in China, and it only has 6 months warranty.... but that's a better warranty than an old stock 100SP would ever get!!  Just from the pictures, this 100ST obviously has a much better electrode holder and ground clamp than the 100SP.  It's only rated at 90 Amps max (versus the older 100 Amps)... but 90 Amps is still the setting I'm really looking for when welding 3/32" rods.  And I'm not sure about the 100SP, but this newer 100ST is supposed to have a thermal overload shutoff funciton.  Sign me up!  It does everything I need, really.... and will be supported for the near future.And the REAL kicker is that Sears has a few coupons that "forced" me to order the machine as soon as I could apply them all....  $15 off $100, plus I got $21 back in Shop Your Way rewards points, plus 4% from the "Shop through Chase" portal (Discover's cash back portal is giving 5%, or 10% if it's your first year with the card, or there's FatWallet's CB portal if you don't have one of these cards).  Luckily, I actually had already purchased a $100 Sears gift card for $85 several months ago, so that's another $15 off for me.  This is an incredible deal for me.  Oh happy day!!  Last edited by grndslm; 03-23-2016 at 09:08 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by grndslmLinky:  http://www.sears.com/forney-298-arc-...3&blockType=G3Mfr Linky:  https://www.forneyind.com/store/deta...lder_120v_90a/I just ordered this machine.  I was about to buy a new (old stock) Forney AT-100 on eBay by submitting a Best Offer.  But since the ebay listing had a different model listed for that machine that I hadn't really noticed before (100SP), I figured I'd search one more time for a cheaper seller with the AT-100SP.  Somehow I saw that Forney has a NEW machine, called the 100ST, or SKU # 298 .  Very exciting!This thing weighs 8 pounds, and actually has "Lift Tig" functionality versus having to deal with scratch start on the older Forney.  The 100ST is clearly labeled as being manufactured in China, and it only has 6 months warranty.... but that's a better warranty than an old stock 100SP would ever get!!  Just from the pictures, this 100ST obviously has a much better electrode holder and ground clamp than the 100SP.  It's only rated at 90 Amps max (versus the older 100 Amps)... but 90 Amps is still the setting I'm really looking for when welding 3/32" rods.  And I'm not sure about the 100SP, but this newer 100ST is supposed to have a thermal overload shutoff funciton.  Sign me up!  It does everything I need, really.... and will be supported for the near future.And the REAL kicker is that Sears has a few coupons that "forced" me to order the machine as soon as I could apply them all....  $15 off $100, plus I got $21 back in Shop Your Way rewards points, plus 4% from the "Shop through Chase" portal (Discover's cash back portal is giving 5%, or 10% if it's your first year with the card, or there's FatWallet's CB portal if you don't have one of these cards).  Luckily, I actually had already purchased a $100 Sears gift card for $85 several months ago, so that's another $15 off for me.  This is an incredible deal for me.  Oh happy day!!
Reply:I see this is your first post so welcome to the forum.Lincoln A/C 225Everlast P/A 200
Reply:Its a trap!old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Originally Posted by WNY_TomBi have 80 amp 120volt inverter and it runs with 6013 but it is only good for less than 3/16 thick steel...... i would be curious if it gets a 3/32 6013 rod red hot if used all in one use down to last 2" of rod
Reply:Originally Posted by grndslmThe sad thing is that the estimated arrival date is TWO WEEKS from yesterday.    But I'm not in a huge hurry for a $100 welding machine.  One bummer I realized is that this machine shaves off 10 amps on both ends from the original 100SP.  So this machines limits are 20 to 90, whereas the older one was 10 to 100 amps.  Would've liked the lower amps to practice tigging on some razor blades.  Oh well...But I will be sure to update when I use some 7018 and 309 rods in 3/32.  I don't really have a reason to use any rods other than those.I'm really excited about the lift tig functionality, tho.  Anyone have a clue of a cheap tig torch that would work with this thing?  ... and cheap regulator?  ... and is there a trick to finding a cheap gas bottle besides Craigslist?  I know absolutely nothing about tiggin'.
Reply:Oh lucky me.... I got this welder 8 days early!!  Got it yesterday, but I found two main problems --(1) The only scrap metal in my back yard was mostly sheet metal.  I know I had some brake rotors somewhere, but I think those are actually more iron than they are steel (or something like that)? So I didn't feel like digging too much last night.(2) I had all the required equipment except my welding helmet!  So I had to wait to bring home my one from work.  And then.... Originally Posted by WNY_TomBall 3 machines did not run on 15 amp 120 volt circuit unless turned down to 2/3 or 1/2 max setting. does not matter if machines says 200 amps if you blow the 120 volt breaker in seconds. been my experience you need 20 amp 120 volt circuit if you want close to full power
Reply:How old is the breaker? They can get 'tired' and trip sooner than rated . . . . and most are cheap enough that either replacing it outright, or swapping with another in the panel is a credible starting point.- Tim
Reply:Originally Posted by grndslmOh lucky me.... I got this welder 8 days early!!  Got it yesterday, but I found two main problems --(1) The only scrap metal in my back yard was mostly sheet metal.  I know I had some brake rotors somewhere, but I think those are actually more iron than they are steel (or something like that)? So I didn't feel like digging too much last night.(2) I had all the required equipment except my welding helmet!  So I had to wait to bring home my one from work.  And then....I was aware that I needed at least a 20 amp breaker.... but this box is still blowing the breaker somewhere between 50 and 65 amps (50 was working without blowing, for sure).  Couldn't play around with it too much, plus I was mostly just burning holes in that sheet metal at such high amps.  I'll need to get some thicker scrap metal, but my biggest issue is my 20 amp breaker non-sense.  Excluding the breaker, the only thing separating a 15 amp circuit from a 20 amp circuit is the proper gauge wire from panel to outlet, no??  I'm assuming the wire is thick enough... so perhaps the breaker is just faulty??Will have to play around with it tomorrow.... but I'm kinda already wanting a 220/240 box now.
Reply:One thing many people forget is that few outlets in the average home are dedicated circuits. Newer homes often have dedicated circuits in the kitchen as people have found that heating appliances like toaster ovens, coffee makers etc draw almost full circuit power and having other items on the circuit often causes the breakers to trip.Nondedicated circuits can have a fair amount of draw on them, even if everything is "off". Modern computers, tv's and so on are never really "off" if still plugged in and all of that can add up. Also each and every connection adds to resistance and voltage loss. Most outlets are daisy chained together. If you are lucky, they made the connections with wire nuts and used a jumper to the outlet. Typically though electricians are lazy in most track built homes and just put both wires into the outlet and let the outlet make the "bridge" at that point.Then as mentioned you have the issue of older breakers being weak..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
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