Stick electrode choices

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I didn't want to hijack a thread and searched with no definitive answers. Newb looking to stick weld. Self taught tig, my stuff stays together and looks good. In regards to stick. How does your selection go in terms of material thickness, electrode size, amps, etc., without getting into different electrode types. Can a 1/8" weld smaller?  How big until you need to step up?  Those kinda things. Power source is a sync 250.
Reply:A lot of this is based on skill, so it's hard to give you a solid answer that covers every thing.In general it's best if your rod is smaller than your base material. So for 1/8" steel, 3/32" would be a better choice than 1/8" rods. However if you are skilled and can read and manipulate the puddle well, it is possible to weld thinner stock with larger rod. I've certainly done 14 ga ( aprox 3/32") with 1/8" rods turned way down. It wasn't easy, but the results weren't that bad. I certainly wouldn't want to do thinner stuff with 1/8" though, and if I had had 3/32" rods at the time, I'd have used them rather than fight with the 1/8" ones.Rod choice also plays a roll. I know several people who are masters at using 6010/11 to do thin stuff. Since those rods are fast freeze rods, if you know how to use them right, it's possible to weld thin stuff with them even though they are a deep penetrating rod. I'm not that good, but I'm getting better at whipping to let the puddle freeze but not burning huge holes when I'm not. Other rods like 6013 are shallow penetrating rods that are better for thin stuff if run right.Thicker stuff, it comes down to fill rates. 1/8" will do up to 1" thick material no problem if prepped properly. However laying down  a small bead like that with each rod, you'll have a lot of rods to run to fill a 1" fillet. In that case a larger rod would make more sense. How big would depend on how often you need to use big rods, and what the max output of your machine is. I have some 5/16" rods at the shop from when we used to have to do bucket repairs. When you need to weld up 3' of 1/2" or better steel, 1/8" rods get old fast. 5/16" rods got the job done faster. However I seldom have a need to bring them out as much as I used to.The average hobbyist are guy running a light construction business like you do, will probably be best served with 3/32" and 1/8" rods. If you need to do a bunch of heavy repairs on thick stock, then 5/16" rods might be worth picking up for that particular job. 1/16" rods are too whippy for me to use easily, and I don't do sheet metal with stick often. If you don't have access to a mig, then maybe a small quantity of 1/16" rods might pay to have on hand.Type can be just as important as size. 6010/11 works well on dirty rusty stuff that you just can't get clean well and to close up open roots for using 7018. 7014 is a good generic rod that is easy to use and stores well. 7018 is a good rod when things must hold or for say equipment repairs because it's a bit better for shock loads than 7014 is. However 7018 can be moisture sensitive and run poorly if not stored well. I usually buy brand new sealed tins of this when we needed to do critical welds on equipment rather than trust rods that weren't stored perfectly over who knows how long. The extras went into a tube for generic use much like the 7014's. I'm not a big fan of 6013's myself. They are good rods similar to 7014s, but many guys have issues trapping slag with them I've found. Also they don't give you the strength 7014 does, so I don't see much reason to use them on average. They are a good option for guys with AC only machines that are picky about what rods they will run.It's been a bit since I looked at Millers slide rule style calculator for stick. If it's like the tig one in my desk, it might have material thicknesses down the side. They are pretty cheap to get though and the info on them can be very helpful.https://www.millerwelds.com/resource...s/#calculatorsHere's a few other links that might help you some from Miller.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ps/stick_tips/http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:This is MILLERS, http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.phpA post from Weldingweb, http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...lectrode-ChartI would say you can almost get by with 3/32 and 1/8  for most work as a hobby guy. The smaller diameter will give you better control and a smaller weld. Practicing with each is the best way.
Reply:I like lincoln Excalibur  1/8http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by jbr; 12-28-2014 at 11:04 AM.LONGEVITY 250EX w/ 25' weldcraft cs310 torchTorchmate w/ Hypertherm powermax 85   withFLASHCUT CNC PRO SERIES CONTROLS
Reply:I like 7018 for almost everything.  They make rod from 1/16 up.  6013 is similar but freezes so it can be alot better on thin metal.  As soon as you move it freezes and it fills.  When I can't do proper prep, like beveling, and what not, I'll start with 6010 for a root pass and then fill with 7018.  I think its easier to start with big rods, and then go to smaller rods.  Its all about seeing the puddle with all these rods.  I recently switched my lense to a gold one that reflects the light back toward my work, and it has made it so much easier to see.  Best thing I have done for welding lately.  http://airgas.com/product/Safety-Pro...78&fo_s=gplaus
Reply:Wow, seems to be a lot of people on here from Oxford lately. I have a lot of family there, over by the airport.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Out here on our ranch, I use one of two rods with my Hobart Stickmate 230: 6011 or 7018AC.  6011 for the dirty stuff (like building hay racks, fence braces, etc. with stuff like rusty oilfield pipe or rebar), and 7018AC for stuff I can get clean first with a heavy twisted wire brush on the angle grinder.  I've found 6011 to be 6011, but in my experience the Lincoln 7018AC is noticeably better than the Hobart 7018AC.  It starts and restarts easier and runs smoother.  I don't store it in an oven, just in those red tubes, and I only take out 2 or 3 at a time as I need them. Never had a problem.  I run 7018AC as a drag rod, where I can actually feel it touching the metal when I'm using it.  That's my input on this topic.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Thanks guys big help.
Reply:I like to use 1/8 lincoln 6010 for my root passes.  And 3/32 atom -arc 7018 even for thicker materials.  I like to run multi-pass welds (stringer beads).
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIf you need to do a bunch of heavy repairs on thick stock, then 5/16" rods might be worth picking up for that particular job.
Reply:I like 3/32 & 1/8 6011 for dirty repairs or tack-up. but I use alot of 6013 & 7014 in areas that most default to 7018. it has never resulted in any failures in the 20+ years i have been doing this. my machine has a early version of a high freq box on it and i did some 18 ga repair with 1/8 7014. not my first choice but was all i had.... that said i also use alot of regular 7018 with my old AC machine with great results... it looks and functions the same as when i use a DC machine hard to tell the difference.. even out of position... but i know other AC machine guys that have had no such luck... best to ya! post some pics!
Reply:Originally Posted by MISSING LINKI like 3/32 & 1/8 6011 for dirty repairs or tack-up. but I use alot of 6013 & 7014 in areas that most default to 7018. it has never resulted in any failures in the 20+ years i have been doing this. my machine has a early version of a high freq box on it and i did some 18 ga repair with 1/8 7014. not my first choice but was all i had.... that said i also use alot of regular 7018 with my old AC machine with great results... it looks and functions the same as when i use a DC machine hard to tell the difference.. even out of position... but i know other AC machine guys that have had no such luck... best to ya! post some pics!
Reply:A "good" bad example or "bad" good example? ☺
Reply:Originally Posted by MISSING LINKA "good" bad example or "bad" good example? ☺
Reply:Nothing wrong with AC had over 100 Hollup 500 amp AC welders doing LCM during WW -2 made rods up to 3/8 dia .