Modern equivalent of old Sears/Craftsman rod?

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Looking for modern equivalent (6013, etc) of Craftsman p/n 920645 3/32" mild steel welding rod.On package: "all position", "AC or DC", "recommended amps 20-80 flat, 20-65 vertical, 20-65 overhead", "a universal rod for any type weld in any position"Probably purchased in 1980s, for use with older Craftsman AC only stick welder. They work well with that machine (good bead, easy to start, good penetration, easy cleanup).Local Sears tool is no help, will try Sears corporate tomorrow.Thanks in advance.
Reply:I would get some 6013 or 7014 - they will run well for you on AC.6011 is another good choice - but of the 3 rods, I like 7014 the best.Sears would not have given you anything special, so it's likely 6013 or 7014 and they are readily available in pretty much any decent hardware store.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:sorry, i misunderstood questionLast edited by 123weld; 04-10-2016 at 05:41 PM.
Reply:20 amps low end on a 3/32" rod? My only guess would be 6011."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:I have 1/16 p/n 920215 ac-dc 10-60'amps meets or exceeds aws 6013,6010,6011,6012 .1lb
Reply:Originally Posted by ScrubbleLooking for modern equivalent (6013, etc) of Craftsman p/n 920645 3/32" mild steel welding rod.On package: "all position", "AC or DC", "recommended amps 20-80 flat, 20-65 vertical, 20-65 overhead", "a universal rod for any type weld in any position"Probably purchased in 1980s, for use with older Craftsman AC only stick welder. They work well with that machine (good bead, easy to start, good penetration, easy cleanup).Local Sears tool is no help, will try Sears corporate tomorrow.Thanks in advance.
Reply:The last two answers X2. I have a mid-seventies Sears 230V, 295A buzz-box (built by Emerson Electric) that I still use occasionally when it's the handiest machine. I ran out of Sears rod a month after the original purchase. The rod from any local welding supply WORKS JUST AS WELL, and might easily be from the original supplier to Sears.  As stated, E6013 and 7014 in 1/8" and 5/32" were what was always on-hand from Sears, but with my new welder I also bought their "sampler" rod selection that also had some hardface rod, some cast iron rod ("Ni-rod"), some E6013 in 3/32", maybe a couple of other items. A given rod, as made by the various makers of rod, doesn't vary enough that you can't do good work with any of them if you are a practiced welder. We all have our preferences, but we all don't agree on these, so just get what the local welding supply has on the shelf. Personally, I would draw the line at Chinese rod, since I don't trust their metallurgy QC.We're assuming from the question that you are pretty new at this, and every one of us was at your position once. If you tell us which machine you have, we could advise you better on a selection of rod to have on hand.  This is a good site on which to lurk and learn, and the gurus are even reasonably tolerant of dumb questions (the kind I ask).Last edited by old jupiter; 04-11-2016 at 11:32 AM.
Reply:Tractor supply stores usually have a good selection of welding rods in small and large containers. usually it is Hobart rod
Reply:Thanks for the info guys. Yes, I'm pretty new- used to "arc weld" back in high school, then switched to oxy-acetylene and recently started back with this machine.The machine in question is pictured (230 amp AC only). My prof. welder neighbor did the welds in the second picture using old 6013 rods (that I got with the welder from my elderly machinist neighbor) at 110A on the A range.Sorry for the size of the second picture- I left it at full size so one could zoom in if desired.The only other notable thing about the sears rods that I forgot to mention is that the instructions say "Weld by merely dragging the rod along, letting the coating contact or rest on the work", which sounded nuts to me but actually works pretty well (if only with those rods). I assume that's a feature designed for noobies.
Reply:Originally Posted by ScrubbleThe only other notable thing about the sears rods that I forgot to mention is that the instructions say "Weld by merely dragging the rod along, letting the coating contact or rest on the work", which sounded nuts to me but actually works pretty well (if only with those rods). I assume that's a feature designed for noobies.
Reply:6013 is suppose to have a 1 one dia arc length unless it has extra thick flux which allows dragging. in Europe they call the flux Rutile and list rods by R or RR with RR being double coated or extra thick flux..thick flux rods tend to have more slag problems. professionals tend to prefer thin flux and rod draggers like the thick flux rods.6013 and 7014 and 7024 are all rutile flux but 7014 and 7024 has iron powder mixed in. 7024 with the most iron powder and thickest flux is almost always dragged or use a short arc as arc burns a cone in flux coating at rod end. so visible arc appears shorter
Reply:from a book. basically a short arc gives a cold weld and more uneven and some just up the amps to compensate but if you use more than recommended amps the weld strength goes down Attached Images
Reply:Sears part numbers have (or had, anyway) a three-digit prefix before a period, and if you give that prefix to Sears they can look it up and tell you who made the welder for Sears, if you are interested.  If you can't get to the right employee, give us the welder's PN, and I'll call my expert, Nick, who has worked at the local Sears repair station for decades.Since dragging won't work with a lot of rod, and might not be the best method even if you are able to drag it, you really want to develop the ability to hold a constant small gap without touching the work. For one thing, this gap helps allow the slag to flow out of the puddle, and you don't want any slag to get trapped under the puddle. Holding a proper short-but-not-too-short arc gap might be the very most basic skill in welding, applying to other processes than just stick-welding, and happily it is not very difficult as compared to some of the other skills you have to learn.  Good luckLast edited by old jupiter; 04-13-2016 at 11:52 AM.