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Another 'Which Tungsten' Thread, Specific to Transformer Machines, AC Aluminum TIG

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:09:10 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hey guys. I have been learning and reading about tungsten choices. I bought a welder that came with a TON, like 100 or so thoriated tungstens, in 3/32 and 1/8, so I have been using those. They work great in DC, but I have had lots of challenges keeping a decent profile on the tungsten in AC.My machine (Like my user name) is an old school transformer machine, the 300A/BP. I like it a lot, no issues with the machine at all!I have a CK 230 rigid water cooled, and a home-made cooler, good for 300A.The issue is that when I hit some 1/4" or thicker AL with a ton of amps, I get little balls on the end of the tungsten which of course makes the arc wander, so one has to use more amps, so you get more balling....well you get the idea. Plus once in that state the arc is harder to start etc.The alternative is to run the machine in mid range and wait, wait, wait for the puddle. This works ok, but I feel like I'm preheating the AL with the welder. I do preheat with propane, but it still needs a bunch of heat to get to weld temp on these big sheets I'm welding. The second issue is without a bunch more amps on some of the T welds I'm doing I don't feel I'm getting enough penetration. They look pretty, but I just know they aren't as strong as I'd like. Lower amps is ok for stuff that won't bear a ton of load, but for stuff that will be loaded up I want the good pen (No, I'm not going to get helium!).Anyway, I ordered up some 1/8 2% Lanthanated Diamond Ground...Supposed to be the best for AC. Anyway, when they get here I'll light it up and do some post mortem pics etc.I was thinking about getting some 5/32 and seeing if I could drill out a collet a big and make them work. Might give me the amps headroom I'm looking for.Comments?Chay
Reply:Replying to my own thread...forgot to mention that the local welding supply guy looked at me strangely when I asked for 2% lanth. He called 2 distributors, neither had 2%, saying it's a rare item. I mentioned that they might want to start getting some, seeing as it's becoming the go-to. One distributor said that they stopped making them because they are radioactive. Seriously.Anyway, thanks to all who have posted info in the past so we relative newbs can get the straight goods on this stuff.Ended up getting mine from Arczone; I've found the quality and service to be good and reliable in the past. Hard to beat them I think. Wish I didn't live in Canada though (Shipping is the killer for small orders).Chay
Reply:I believe it the Thoriated that's radioactive.
Reply:Thoriated is the radioactive, and I believe Miller is now recommending Lanthanated. Just buy it online. I use 2% lanthanated on my syncrowave, but I only weld steel for the most part. Not a lot of aluminum experience. Jody recommends 2% lanthanated. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...lectrodes.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:i use 5/32 tungsten on ac for aluHigh Octane Welding
Reply:Originally Posted by miller300aHey guys. I have been learning and reading about tungsten choices. I bought a welder that came with a TON, like 100 or so thoriated tungstens, in 3/32 and 1/8, so I have been using those. They work great in DC, but I have had lots of challenges keeping a decent profile on the tungsten in AC.My machine (Like my user name) is an old school transformer machine, the 300A/BP. I like it a lot, no issues with the machine at all!I have a CK 230 rigid water cooled, and a home-made cooler, good for 300A.The issue is that when I hit some 1/4" or thicker AL with a ton of amps, I get little balls on the end of the tungsten which of course makes the arc wander, so one has to use more amps, so you get more balling....well you get the idea. Plus once in that state the arc is harder to start etc.The alternative is to run the machine in mid range and wait, wait, wait for the puddle. This works ok, but I feel like I'm preheating the AL with the welder. I do preheat with propane, but it still needs a bunch of heat to get to weld temp on these big sheets I'm welding. The second issue is without a bunch more amps on some of the T welds I'm doing I don't feel I'm getting enough penetration. They look pretty, but I just know they aren't as strong as I'd like. Lower amps is ok for stuff that won't bear a ton of load, but for stuff that will be loaded up I want the good pen (No, I'm not going to get helium!).Anyway, I ordered up some 1/8 2% Lanthanated Diamond Ground...Supposed to be the best for AC. Anyway, when they get here I'll light it up and do some post mortem pics etc.I was thinking about getting some 5/32 and seeing if I could drill out a collet a big and make them work. Might give me the amps headroom I'm looking for.Comments?Chay
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonYou can buy 5/32 collets and collet bodies, so you don't have to make them. But the torch and backcap may not accept them. Anyhow 2% lanthanated should not splinter up and spit tiny balls like Thoriated will. I am pushing 400 amps through my 1/8th tungstens no problem so I doubt you need 5/32. Just be patient. It takes a long time to season 2% lanthanated.
Reply:It's thoriated which is radioactive, which is why I thought it was so funny/sad--the wholesaler and local distributor didn't have any clue.Maybe sprinkle a little curry powder on that tungsten (Seasoning). Never seen that mentioned anywhere either. I think the poster is talking about shaping the point into a ball style end.On the 5/32...I'll try it if I need to. I have gas lens for 1/8, but they don't seem to have them for larger...standard collets/bodies yes, lens no. So we'll see.Hope it gets here soon!Chay
Reply:Originally Posted by miller300aIt's thoriated which is radioactive, which is why I thought it was so funny/sad--the wholesaler and local distributor didn't have any clue.Maybe sprinkle a little curry powder on that tungsten (Seasoning). Never seen that mentioned anywhere either. I think the poster is talking about shaping the point into a ball style end.On the 5/32...I'll try it if I need to. I have gas lens for 1/8, but they don't seem to have them for larger...standard collets/bodies yes, lens no. So we'll see.Hope it gets here soon!Chay
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonNope! What I mean by seasoning is burn out enough lanthanum to maintain a nice shiny ball. Takes a few hours of repointing until it stays. Then it stays almost forever until you dip it and you start the seasoning all over again. E3 balls right off but keeps balling until you need to dress it down.
Reply:Thorium in Tungsten makes it about as radio active as English granite.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:I've always used Red band 2% thoriated.  Seems to work well for me.
Reply:Ok, the results were very interesting to me.I had the machine on the high range. When I hammered the pedal, the 2% Lanth got almost what looked like a flame from the tip to the metal, and deformed right away. The 2% Thoriated at the same max setting would hold for a bit, then kinda explode on the end. Obviously too much power for either of them.Next up, high range, mid pedal. In this range the Thoriated got little balls on the end and resultant arc wander. It burned back into the torch so that by the end I had a hard time not long arcing because of the loss of tungsten length. At this setting, the 2% Lanth held it's shape beautifully. To the extent that the grind marks were still visible at the end of the weld. No die back at all really. BUT, if I pushed it a little harder than 1/2 way the little flame appeared and I got near-instant deformation.At high range, low pedal both performed ok, but the Lanth seemed more controllable, almost like a tighter focus on it, and maintained it through the bead. I think I could weld almost forever at this setting with the Lanth. The Thoriated did still deform over time at this setting. Not much, but some. Over a long duration the Lanth seems like the obvious choice.No idea what the real amperages are for the cuttoff, but on the dial anyway the high range starts at 190A and ends at 435A, so a fair amount of juice! I had no problem joining 2 1ft^2 pieces of 1/4 AL with good penetration on a T joint.Chay
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