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For you guys that do this, say I want to change the outlet on this turbo hot side that from my understanding is cast steel.They see some pretty extreme temperatures. Would you use a 312 and would you pre heat or not at all?Just curious for those guys that do this a lot. I haven't yet but I may have someone asking me to do one soonNew vband would be stainless steel of course.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Hey Gamble,They don't use very good quality casting for those borg warner turbos so just be careful. They are do-able but if you can get an old used one to practice on I would try it. I might actually have one that I can send you...? They seem to hold up really well under high temperatures and I have never had problems with them structurally but I also have never felt comfortable welding anything to them. If I was you I would do this, find a machine shop and have them machine it to fit the exact flange and clamp you decide to use. Heck I would do it for you if I was close by. You will be better off this way. Let me know if you have any more questions.What is it going on if you don't mind me asking?..... ls motor?Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:It should be iron. I've never changed the outlet flange but have welded broken mounting feet back on several times along with repairing a cracked flange from exhaust being routed incorrectly resulting in mechanical bind. Do preheat and preferably post heat to allow it to stabilize. I've always used Ni55 Lincoln rod to do the repair with as deep of "Vee" groove as permissible and allow adequate cover pass width as these things really grow and stress when hot from cold.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Ironically I just added a new style V band to my turbo, I used Ernimo-3(aka Hastalloy W) which is a high nickel do all rod. I did not preheat or post heat like some would advise. I did 'skip' weld, welded a small section then stopped, jumped around to keep heat input to a minimum. The weld and the casting came out fine with no cracks. 312 stainless will work, although alloy w is way better. The new V band is made out of 304 stainless I believe.Last edited by That Guy There; 02-07-2015 at 08:14 PM.Millermatic 211Miller Syncrowave 350lx with cooler and tigrunner Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 811955 National Cylinder Gas O/A setup with original patina
Reply:Actually I have the supermissle rod so it should work well. I think it's for a supra motor but can't say for sure.Can anyone machine for me (or someone already sell one) an aluminum vband with large solid chunk of aluminum on it so I can use that as a heatsink?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:As long as you keep your heat input to a minimum should not have any issues with warping.Millermatic 211Miller Syncrowave 350lx with cooler and tigrunner Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 811955 National Cylinder Gas O/A setup with original patina
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleActually I have the supermissle rod so it should work well.
Reply:I'm curious if the Super Missile listed is stick electrode or TIG rod like the ER312?
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveI'm curious if the Super Missile listed is stick electrode or TIG rod like the ER312?
Reply:I'd guess AWS 312 is the closest equivalent of Super Missile Weld but it's more like a 312 on steroids.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveI'd guess AWS 312 is the closest equivalent of Super Missile Weld but it's more like a 312 on steroids. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:08:45