Classic 300D HELP!!!

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Help please 300d!!I recently got a classic 300d. About a month ago when I went and looked at it it started up fine. Now I have it at my shop and it is not starting. I have sort of diagnosed the problem. Here it is; bled all the lines as well as the injectors and their lines. Still nothing when starting. Just turns over and keeps cranking but no fire. SO I thought if its not getting fuel and all the lines are bled what else? I went to the injection solenoid and found out that there was no juice getting to it to activate the solenoid. I hard wired the solenoid to a 12v battery while the welder was not running. Once I connected it I could here the solenoid working as it made a click notice then releasing the gas to flow through the pump. I followed the lines all the way up to the idle/engine protection pc board. From there I stuck a tester in the port where the solenoid is attached to and nothing. From here I cannot figure it out! I need HELP! I am moving to Australia in a little over a week and am putting this welder in a container to be sent over there.  HELP PLEASE!
Reply:If your machine has a murphy switch on it The one with the little red pin you have to reset to start, this may be the problem. When you turn the ignition toggle switch to on and reset the safety shut down{murphy switch} you should hear the pump pulsating. If not it is agood chance the safety switch is faulty. You can also bypass the safety switch and run a wire from the ignition toggle to the pump and see if it starts. If you do not have smoke when cranking you do not have fuel to the injectors.
Reply:I have looked everywhere for a Murphy switch and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have one. Also I was thinking of just wiring from the ignition switxh to the solenoid but I was wondering if that solenoid controls how much fuel goes in. Like does it stay open while the engine is running or does it close half way when u r welding or who knows.
Reply:Your machine has a murphy switch, it may be labled "engine protection"You must hold the button in while cranking over and for several seconds after the engine starts before releasing. I'm not sure if this is your issue but it is a very common mistake to make, ive been out on service calls for this very thing.Briggs weldnpower 225/210/cvLn-25 suitcaseMillermatic 130
Reply:fuel shutoff solenoids are either off or on. they do not modulate. hot wiring the fuel solenoid to see if you are getting fuel is a good starting point to check. also make sure fuel is getting thru the solenoid. check simple things first.
Reply:It was the engine protection pc board, got the part today and started! Thank goodness!
Reply:On a classic 3d with a Continental engine the fuel shut off controls the electric fuel pump and the pump can be heard pulsating. Not sure about the 3d with a perkins.
Reply:I just want to add something to this post incase anyone else has the same problem. I know it's helpful when there is info online. I recently got back from holiday and started work again using my classic 300D and about 30 min into welding my welder just shut off. I let it sit for a little then started it back up again and welded but maybe only for 10 min and the machine died on me again while welding. After that i wasn't able to start it at all. Bleed the line and everything and still nothing. I then opened up an injector line and tried starting the engine and came to find that there was no fuel getting to the top. Fuel was getting to the injector block but not through the lines to the top. I then saw the injector solenoid and unplugged it and tested it if there power getting to it. There was but then I took it out and clicked the switch on and off and the needle coming out of the solenoid should be either all the way out or retracted in, this in turn either shutting the fuel off to the injectors or letting fuel in. I then got a new solenoid and replaced it and found out it still wouldn't work. Then I hard wired the solenoid right to the battery and it did what it was meant to do. As someone earlier in this post said that the fuel solenoid is either ON or OFF I decided to make a toggle switch  for it. So I ran a switch from the solenoid, first wire was from the solenoid to the toggle switch next one was a wire from the solenoid to a body ground. The next wire was a "hot" wire( I went into the existing "on/off" line) to the toggle switch. What I now do is turn that solenoid switch on before I start it and off when I'm done. Hoping this will help other people with either the classic or other welders! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by ShakaweldingI just want to add something to this post incase anyone else has the same problem. I know it's helpful when there is info online. I recently got back from holiday and started work again using my classic 300D and about 30 min into welding my welder just shut off. I let it sit for a little then started it back up again and welded but maybe only for 10 min and the machine died on me again while welding. After that i wasn't able to start it at all. Bleed the line and everything and still nothing. I then opened up an injector line and tried starting the engine and came to find that there was no fuel getting to the top. Fuel was getting to the injector block but not through the lines to the top. I then saw the injector solenoid and unplugged it and tested it if there power getting to it. There was but then I took it out and clicked the switch on and off and the needle coming out of the solenoid should be either all the way out or retracted in, this in turn either shutting the fuel off to the injectors or letting fuel in. I then got a new solenoid and replaced it and found out it still wouldn't work. Then I hard wired the solenoid right to the battery and it did what it was meant to do. As someone earlier in this post said that the fuel solenoid is either ON or OFF I decided to make a toggle switch  for it. So I ran a switch from the solenoid, first wire was from the solenoid to the toggle switch next one was a wire from the solenoid to a body ground. The next wire was a "hot" wire( I went into the existing "on/off" line) to the toggle switch. What I now do is turn that solenoid switch on before I start it and off when I'm done. Hoping this will help other people with either the classic or other welders! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Burnt GloveJust wondering... did you push in the murphy switch when you tested the fuel shutoff solenoid? did you check your switch gauges when the machine shut off to see if it was an overheat or oil pressure issue? or maybe one of the switch gauges is out of adjustment? the reason for the murphy switch, or engine protection circuit board as you mentioned you replaced, is to protect the engine from low-no oil pressure problems or overheat issues. you might want to double check these items before you start bypassing the safety features and ultimately burn up your engine. I also run a SA300D machine. the only problem i had similar to yours was a blown fuse on the back of the murphy switch. That wouldn't allow the fuel solenoid or electric pump to work with the switch depressed. Anyways, hope this helps.
Reply:Originally Posted by ShakaweldingI definitely see what you mean by trying not to bypass the safely features, and thank you for writing that out to help. So I'm pretty sure the classis 300D don't have Murphys switches because I have looked everywhere when I had a different problem at one point. What exactly are the switch gauges? The oil pressure gauge while I'm running it is exactly where it needs to be but is there somewhere else I need to check? Also if a problem does happen won't the red engine protection like come on still and I'll obviously have to turn the solenoid off? By all means I would much rather have the machine running like it should without the solenoid switch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk