Brake rotor won't weld

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Hello everyone. I was trying to do some yard art today making a tortoise out of a brake rotor, an old Railroad bolt and a rr spike. I was using 3/32 7014 ac 95 amps and I couldn't get any fusion into the brake rotor. At most it scored into it a little. Cranked it up to around 110 amps and still nothing. I know that cast iron is a b**** to weld and you are supposed to use nickel rods. I'm assuming the rotor is cast steel though. Is there a similar issue with cast steel? Is it all cast metals or just iron? Will 7018ac give me a better result? Most of my welding is rusty so I prefer 7014 since I hate 6010. I'm really don't want to buy the more expensive nickel rods for a turtle.... But mayby I can eat the cost as a learning experience with cast metal. (and yes I realize rod can get a lot more expensive then the nickel Hobarts, I'm cheap) Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Reply:Some 7018 might stick to it. I've used it on cast for non critical jobs like filling in a crack on a lathe bed tail base. I used nickel rod for the first pass to try for good adherence. It worked ok. I preheated and post heated with a couple bags of charcoal on top afterwards. It still cracked again, but not nearly as bad as it was.God only knows what the composition of the metal is. Cast something or other. You can try brazing too.IMHO of courseExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Some 7018 might stick to it. I've used it on cast for non critical jobs like filling in a crack on a lathe bed tail base. I used nickel rod for the first pass to try for good adherence. It worked ok. I preheated and post heated with a couple bags of charcoal on top afterwards. It still cracked again, but not nearly as bad as it was.God only knows what the composition of the metal is. Cast something or other. You can try brazing too.IMHO of course
Reply:I've had cast steel crack as soon as I was done welding on it.All I'm suggesting for heat is to maybe put a torch on it to get it warm, or to a dull red at very most. 7018 should hold it together good enough. I've had mixed success using it on cast. Again, a lot will depend on what the metal actually is. Give it a shot. 7018 AC is available and works good on the smaller buzz box machines. I had some of it I got from my old welding instructor that was left over from a Skills USA competition. I ended up giving most of it away with welders I sold.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I've had cast steel crack as soon as I was done welding on it.All I'm suggesting for heat is to maybe put a torch on it to get it warm, or to a dull red at very most. 7018 should hold it together good enough. I've had mixed success using it on cast. Again, a lot will depend on what the metal actually is. Give it a shot. 7018 AC is available and works good on the smaller buzz box machines. I had some of it I got from my old welding instructor that was left over from a Skills USA competition. I ended up giving most of it away with welders I sold.
Reply:Max, One of your statements rang alarm bells in my head. You say you don't want to braze because of the fire hazard.  I'll  bet you anything that more fires are started by flying stick spatter than by brazing torches ( l have no data to support that statement, it's just my opinion.) Barring finding a fireproof work site, braze away but be mindful of where you are pointing the torch.Eventual master of the obvious, practitioner of "stream of consciousness fabrication".  P.S. I edit almost every post because because I'm posting from my phone and my fingers sometimes move faster than my brain.
Reply:I can't say I wasn't thinking the same thing.Forney C5 Arc WelderLincoln Idealarc 250-250 Ac/Dc Arc WelderMiller Bobcat 225g PlusLincoln PowerMig 200Forney O/A Rig
Reply:Anyone remember when John-boy Walton fell asleep while smoking his pipe? Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Originally Posted by SedanmanMax, One of your statements rang alarm bells in my head. You say you don't want to braze because of the fire hazard.  I'll  bet you anything that more fires are started by flying stick spatter than by brazing torches ( l have no data to support that statement, it's just my opinion.) Barring finding a fireproof work site, braze away but be mindful of where you are pointing the torch.
Reply:Originally Posted by Max ZubrenicHonestly I'm sure your right. I'm not sure why I feel like it's more dangerous I guess an open flame just Feels more of a fire hazard. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Reply:Get out of the barn now
Reply:Originally Posted by Pete.S.Open flame is just a fire hazard a couple of inches from the flame but welding and grinding sparks are a fire hazard 10-20 feet away as well.Technically speaking brazing is done at a lower temperature than welding but the flame is hot anyway.PS. I needed a hot work permit so I did that recently and the regulations stated that all flammable material from 30 ft radius should be removed or protected when doing welding, grinding etc. I'm not sure I would want to weld inside a barn if I had a choice. Can't you move outside?
Reply:Originally Posted by Max ZubrenicHey thank you for the advice. I'll give it a try. You have been super helpful in this and other threads!Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Reply:My neighbor was welding in a barn.He cleared everything from the immediate area and splashed some water around when he was done.Went into the house looked out the window and the barn was on fire.He thought a spark has rolled between the concrete floor and the wood of the wall.To me welding and grinding is far more dangerous than O/A.
Reply:weld a plate to it and bolt it on the rotor,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~and I have seen a lot more fires, with a arc than with a welding tip in a torch,  (cutting torch you can burn things down with as well)  grinders are good way as well to smoke things, including your overalls,Last edited by Farmerboy; 04-25-2016 at 10:37 AM.
Reply:Weld in the Dirt! I'll weld anywhere on anything, but I WON"T weld in a Hay Barn!I'm with these guys, Arc will throw a lot further than you think!110 amps max or 50 amps will throw a hot spark!Seen too many barns burn with livestock in them and not a DAMN thing can be done but live with the sounds!
Reply:YES, WELD IN THE DIRT AS STATED !!! I do it a lot . Make sure you have a garden hose attached to a working water line , fire blankets as needed, bucket of water, and LARGE extinguishers. Those baby ones would only put out sparks . As for the rotor, again as mentioned  add a plate and bolt to rotor. Some rotors have cast iron in them and look fine until you apply pressure, the weld lifts right off. Same with farm disc blades, many of those are more cast then carbon steel.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mark's WeldingGet out of the barn now
Reply:I started to weld outside. I had a roof over my head and gravel under my feet.Only problem was when the temperature got below zero. Then the helmet fogged up from warm breathing air.Gravel is nice because you never have to sweep up anything.The problem with sparks from welding is that they roll and bounce.Last edited by Pete.S.; 04-25-2016 at 06:28 PM.