homade remote control?

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I was reading a tread dealing with remote controls for a sa-200 lincoln. a fellow said he had instructions on how to build your own in which it was similar to a pipeliner remote(which is small) I couldn't seem to get in touch with him and was wondering if anyone knew how to build one? thanksLast edited by k_chupe; 10-31-2009 at 09:25 PM.
Reply:Check this thread out k_chupe.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...t=sa200+remoteMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:That's the tread that I read about. the fellow said to email him requesting the instructions, I did that but didn't get a response from him.
Reply:I got this from another forum, basically indecipherable and hard to read. Ctrl + helps, I have cleaned it up and drew it again but don't have a way to put it on the computer anymore as my scanner went south on me. My camera is supposed to return tomorrow, maybe I can get it on the computer then? We'll see. For the time being this is what I have.Wiring a Remote RheosatThe drawing is the wiring inside the machine that needs to be added (top) and the other drawing (bottom) is of the inside of a Cable remote box.The pigtail  and toggle you will be installing on your machine for the remote should be wired like the top picture.REMOTE TOGGLE  - new black wire from brush leg of rheostat - blue wire from generator housing that was attached to the brush leg of the rheostat - white wire coming from the pigtail you are installing for the remote FEMALE PLUG FOR PIGTAIL @ white wire from remote toggle switch--(gold screw)black wire from pigtail wired into your machine to the fixed leg of the rheostat--(silver screw) green wire from pigtail that’s wired into the machine on the bottom side of you receptacle on the front of the machine (if you're not going to make a remote with auxillary then don't use this) Attached ImagesOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:I all ready have a remote switch and receptacle for the remote cord. I was wanting to build my own remote as mentioned by:  Cruizer  Re: SA 200 Remote ControlIt's easy making one yourself, I'll give you all the instructions including what parts to get and how to wire it, though you'll have to email me for the breakdownin above link from DuaneB55. I wanted to build my own so that I can make it like I want. If I had instructions from Cruzier then I could build my  own. I appreciate your help and wouldn't mind saving the instructions you gave incase I have to rewire my remote. Thanks
Reply:k_chupe,There's only a couple ways to do a remote on the SA.  A series circuit and a parallel circuit like the one in the schematic gizzardgutz posted - which in my opinion is the best way.  As gg stated, it's a little hard to read but it's how it would be done.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:O.K. but what about the construction of the remote? What are the parts you would use? I want to build a scaled down remote like the pipeliner mentioned in the link you gave. Is there a way to find out what I would use? Also,I have a Lincoln classic 3D(300 amp) that I will be using the remote on. The pipeliner remote is a 2"X2"x2" box, so I have no idea what components to get for this type of remote. The remote I have now has a rheostat that's big.Last edited by k_chupe; 11-02-2009 at 09:11 PM.
Reply:This is the same drawings as I posted earlier, clarified, my interpretation. I THINK this is what the other ones show. These show the wiring in the machine and the wiring for the remote. My understanding of the diagrams would be a hardwired remote. I could be wrong as I haven't attempted it myself yet. Ctrl + will enlarge the photos. Attached ImagesLast edited by gizzardgutz; 11-03-2009 at 06:28 PM.Reason: spOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzardgutzThis is the same drawings as I posted earlier, clarified, my interpretation. I THINK this is what the other ones show. These show the wiring in the machine and the wiring for the remote. My understanding of the diagrams would be a hardwired remote. I could be wrong as I haven't attempted it myself yet. Ctrl + will enlarge the photos.
Reply:When and if you find the smaller rheostat be sure and publish the facts here as there are several folks interested in them. I know they're out there because I've seen the smaller remotes you referred to. I'd be willing to bet Kaye at  http://billswelderrepair.com/ would know the answer to that!Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzardgutzWhen and if you find the smaller rheostat be sure and publish the facts here as there are several folks interested in them. I know they're out there because I've seen the smaller remotes you referred to. I'd be willing to bet Kaye at  http://billswelderrepair.com/ would know the answer to that!
Reply:Keep in mind that the weldtron remote won't work right when it gets damp.They used to have that posted on thier website. I've been on jobs with people using them in damp weather and the amperage runs wild, hot/cold/just right.That'll kill you on pipeline work.When they first came out some guys tried them but I haven't seen one on a pipeline rig for several years now.JTMcC.
Reply:If I knew what parts to use then I could make my own case and go to home depot and get some of that plastic/ rubber dip. that stuff would water proof anything
Reply:Originally Posted by k_chupecalled and talked to Kay but she and "Pops" said that you have to have an extra circuit board to synchronize with the rheostat on the machine otherwise it will be a different phase than the machine rheostat. I really didn't feel like paying 400 or so bucks for the weldtron's pipeliner remote, but seems to be the only option right now unless someone has some info they're not giving up. Haven't heard from Cruizer since I emailed and P.M.ed him for the remote components.
Reply:My Dad inlaw used a dial unit from a dryer, yes a dryer, he's brilliant.WHAT DOES NOT KILL US, MAKES US STRONGER...http://www.myspace.com/painter22
Reply:Originally Posted by troyboyMy Dad inlaw used a dial unit from a dryer, yes a dryer, he's brilliant.
Reply:Here's the instructions compliments of Cruizer!Parts required to add remote capabilities to a SA2001 – Handle for the box, pull handles from home depot work well1 - 6x6x4” steel enclosure (square “D” box works well for the do it yourselfer)1 – M5090C 64 ohm 150 watt rheostat1 – Standard household duplex plug (only on SA200 or Pipeliner 200)1 metal with rubber sleeve ½” strain relief1 – 3/8” knob for rheostat100’  length of cable preferably 14/3, though 16/3 works just as well. 20 amp 125 volt plug (any brand will do)20 amp 125 volt Hubbell receptacle (only Hubbell!) reason to  follow.1 on /on switch 2 pole double throwNow for the funYou’ll have to mill out the box to fit the rheostat and duplex plug. The duplex plug is what I would use, however, you can also buy the single plugs, way easier to mount in a Square “D” box by far. As my boxes are all laser cut.Wire the box with the cable you bought as follows:Wire through the new strain relief leaving around 3” of cable shield before you cut the shield off showing the wires. Green to bronze on the auxiliary duplex or what ever you picked up, if you have a couple of singles, you’ll have to string a matching wire over to the other receptacle same terminal.White to right outside terminal on rheostat. (terminals facing down looking at the back of the rheostat) Twin this white wire to the other side of the auxiliary receptacle.Black to center (wiper) of rheostatWire the plug Black to bronze, white to silver and green to the ground lug.Easy so far????OK now for the machine.You’ll want to get a 1 ½” step bit to cut the hole for the 20 amp 125 volt receptacle and switch right side lower legNow the reason for the Hubbell only receptacle is the ease at which to remove the grounding strap. Because you want the receptacle isolated, a little screw driver will pop this little filament out of there easily. No other receptacle has this little option.So …….Remove the 2 wires from the existing local rheostat keeping note of where they go and place them on the center of the new on/on switch, attach with some new 16 gage automotive wires to the bottom of the new switch back to the local rheostat. Add another set of new wires to the top of the switch and attach them to the bronze and silver of the new receptacle, won’t worry about which goes where right now,Attach a black wire to the “Ground lug” on the new receptacle and twin it into the existing fuse or direct to the existing receptacle, you’ll see 3 red wires on one side and one black on the other side, this black one is the one you want to go to.OK your done, run it up in remote mode, switches work in a diagonal fashion, in this case up will be local and down will be remotePlug a grinder in, what your looking for is if the grinder’s power can be controlled by turning the knob on the remote rheostat, if it can’t then all is good, if it can be adjusted, you’ll have to swap the black and white wires in the new remote plug .Whew………If you want to run a crawler using your remote that’s easy as well, you’ll have to cut the banding on the auxiliary receptacle to isolate the plugs, or add another receptacle.The green wire will have to be twinned and still go to the bronze terminal on the receptacle. Jumper a black wire from the center of the Rheostat to the silver on the isolated receptacle.
Reply:ok i am lost. trying to wire in a remote pigtail for cabel's remote on a 1954 sa 200 short hood. i cant find the blue shunt feild wire. all the small wires coming out of the generator houseing are white cotton. i dont know if the color is gone or if it was rewired by a dumb ***. lol need help asap also pics would be nice so maybe i can find my way around the thing.