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K'kins said it had to go. She's tired of weed whacking around it.I live to serve.I got at least a ton of stuff laying out there, and the wooden stuff it's sitting on has sunk into the ground. It's time for a permanent home. Lotta money sitting there.Lotta money.And she's put it on her LIST. My to-do list.It's a matter of less is more. The plan is to make something up with 11ga material that will withstand the weight. I'm figuring on two sawhorse thingies that will take 1 ton apiece. 4K combined load. Big time Something akin to the Bay Bridge.I don't touch saw, torch, or rod, to metal these days without a good analysis (Again, Thanks Irishfixit for the software link). Beats guessing."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:We're talking a 3x3, 6' long, piece of 11ga square tubing as the main beam.Let's do a point load analysis. The worst case scenario. All of that crap piled up in the center of the span.We're good.Now about a distributed load.Now we got a good approximation of what to expect, and I say it's an approximation. You have to add some leeway for design mistakes, and safety.Soon to begin, with some blow by blow stuff............if the back heals. Actually, probably start tomorrow. (She loves an injured man doing his best despite the pain, it's like an aphrodisiac)"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I started out at an 8' beam, and had to whittle it back to 6'. Sort of a disappointment, but it is what it is."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:It was a safety factor"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:This is my suggestion...Find a spot for storage. Clean it up, mow it short. Then get out the ground killer. Massive doses of ground killer. Then pack it down with the tractor tire or whatever. Then more ground killer. Haul in a load of gravel. Then ground killer on it. Lay down your railroad ties and start stacking material. Scrap what needs to be scrapped as you sort through. When I did river rock landscaping around the house I used ground killer spray first. Only weeds I ever have to deal with are growing in the rocks themselves. Not the ground.My name's not Jim....
Reply:You could keep that steel over here Sam, no prob.
Reply:Yabutt, you wouldn't give the one post wonders, long time multi post morons, and just plain ol folks, anything to complain about, make suggestions, and tell you that it will all collapse in your lap, anything to do.Besides, my back is fu33o, and I need to get it active. AND IT'S SPRING"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:did i say aphrodisiac"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Gotta strike while the iron is hot"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Multi post... My name's not Jim....
Reply:Let me save you a pile of work... we don't weed whack on this home/farm. If it's not mulched it is sprayed back far enough for the mower to reach. if you really want to get serious, something like sahara will give you a great residual.
Reply:Would she like it better if you used some to make an additional rack to put the rest on? MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Spray it with fertilizer..In two weeks it will be so grown over, she will forget it's there. ...This is easy...What's next on that list of hers?
Reply:use culverts for support, material of your choice, would not take very many side by side to support the material.....also provides storage area inside the culverts. Add cement board on top for flat surface area...and/or get really fancy and cut culverts or pipe in sections and stand them vertical with cement board on top for tables....or partially bury in ground (vertical/horizontal) for hidden support.
Reply:My stash is behind a grainary where she can't see it.... some day I'm going to have to clean it up to find out what's on the bottom though.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Sammmmmmm... Back away from the drafting table... NOW! Put down the CAD program, or we'll shoot! You don't wanna be tazered -again- do you, Samm? Why fight uphill engineering to create a span, to store what looks like mostly lengths of small cross-section which need segregation anyway?Why not "pigeon hole" for storage? Use lighter material for framing with plenty of supports between?A grid of rectangles, round, whatever you have available would be ideal - and stow lengthwise.What became of all those Dayton truck rims?Plus you can use up a bunch of odds and ends in the process.It'd be simple enough to make somewhat weather tight too.USAD mentioned culvert - if you have culvert to spare that'd be ideal; stack 'em horizontally and load 'em up.Last edited by denrep; 03-24-2015 at 10:55 AM.
Reply:He's got a point. My smaller pieces got "pigeon-holed" into 2 upright diamond harrows held by a couple 4 ft lengths of scrap. Unfortunately I didn't use the CAD and overloaded it, so now it's all folded back down into the weeds on the ground...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Easy engineering solution Sambo....birdie baths for Kelly. Once they have that shabby chic patina on 'em, she'll love them...and you. What are friends for...right? If you're feeling industrious in your old age...try for a few lawn fountains too.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by WyoRoyEasy engineering solution Sambo....birdie baths for Kelly. Once they have that shabby chic patina on 'em, she'll love them...and you. What are friends for...right? If you're feeling industrious in your old age...try for a few lawn fountains too.
Reply:That's your Uncle Roy, Sambo...always willing to be of aid & assistance to ya'. Last edited by WyoRoy; 03-24-2015 at 01:24 PM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:AnywaysMy back is still so bad, I'm not sure I can actually lift anything today. So.............at least was able to do the drawing for the end thingy which will support the beam. We're really looking at a pair of oversized saw horses actually, kinda, sortaNo computer stuff here, just plain old ruler and pencil. I chose 1 1/2" to the foot for a good manageable scale. Larger the scale, easier to find good measurements.The drawing is mainly to give me cut angles, or inch measurements for layout. Inch measurements are easier if you don't want to fool with a protractor, just use a square, and a tape.For guys that aren't good at geometry (like me), this is a good available calculator online http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htmSome things are left out of the drawing. Only needed to establish angles."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I have no idea who Kelly Mejia is, but apparently I have her pencil"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:'' K'kins said it had to go." Who is K'kins ? Would it be better for K'kins to go? Just wondering, or is this a wife that would cost mega bucks to ship out ?
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Waaaaayyyyyyy too much thinking going into this........
Reply:Get one of those shipping containers they seem to be giving away and fill it up!12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829And over fifteen hundred people (like me) have actually tuned into this?
Reply:Originally Posted by YofishAnd over fifteen hundred people (like me) have actually tuned into this?
Reply:Originally Posted by YofishAnd over fifteen hundred people (like me) have actually tuned into this?
Reply:Decided to give it a try despite the back. Surprisingly, it seems that doing some work loosened it up Scary stuff when the back gets weird.All the pieces for the legs have been cut, and marked. Great accomplishment for a semi invalidSo, if you have a bunch of pieces that have to be mirror images, it's best to mark them in pairs. This way you can spot any mistakes. It's easy to make a mark for an angle going the wrong direction.Something like this, I prefer to cut everything to length, then cut the angles. Some people prefer to cut single angle cuts, thereby making two pieces at once. I really don't like this because it doesn't account for the kerf, and it makes screwing up easier (something I can do well enough without help) I double check measurements, angles, and layout, before I cut. Metal is expensive, and so is your pride if you mess upAbout the time I rolled the torch out, the rain started, so that's it I guess. Tomorrow is another day. (Well hopefully......we're in for severe thunderstorms, large hail, possible 55mph straight winds, and the odd chance of smaller tornadoes) "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Sam, you need to build yourself a covered work area so that a little rain won't scare you away. Now I'll not argue with you when winds get high and the clouds start rotating, but you're sever fear or getting wet is amusing to me.Last edited by ThorsHammer; 03-25-2015 at 05:13 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Wet is bad. Lightning is way WAY bad But!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Being a fearless kinda doooood (sorta), I dashed out between squalls, and did some cutting. Left the cart inside in case of the need for a quick duck-and-coverThis is what you make the pretty little layout marks for. It's nice when it all matchesKnock the slag off the cuts, and it's almost ready to weld. Maybe a few second swipe with the grinder to level out an edge. Good cutting equals faster fitup. I still prefer using the torch, it's just like like like like............................NOOKIE I suppose the thread is boring to most of y'all, but I thought it might be good to do a detailed thing for the folks just starting out. If I remember correctly, a lady member was asking for beginner projects a while back. I suppose this qualifies."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:That Ford with the hood up looks like a giant rat trap all set and baited....If you keep going, the rack you building will consume all the steel you trying to store, and the wife will see it as yet another place to store even more new shoes.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammKnock the slag off the cuts, and it's almost ready to weld. Maybe a few second swipe with the grinder to level out an edge. Good cutting equals faster fitup. I still prefer using the torch, it's just like like like like............................NOOKIE.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderSamm, if EVER I find nookie with that much slag and dross hangin, I'm gonna job it out to get re-bushed....If them docs today can perform an addadicktomy, they can surely re-bush a coat sleeve.
Reply:Shoulda showed the full processI cut a line with a razor wheel where I want the coping cut to endThen cut on my mark to the razor wheel cut, then remove what's left of the flange with the razor wheelMakes for real accurate copes, and it's pretty fast."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:What software is that?
Reply:software?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by JaredgWhat software is that?
Reply:I was reading DSW's comments in another thread about using the small tips and pushing the O2 a little harder so I tried that today. I put a 00 tip on and I liked the results better than the #1 tip I was using. I'm still playing around with the pressure settings though as the recommendations from Victor tend to be lower than the cheap Chinese lookalike I had before. I'm still pretty rusty with the cutting torch but hopefully I'll get my cuts to look as good as yours soon.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:What with the crap back, and other stuff to be done, it's been sort of a slow go. Finally got something done yesterday.Cleaned all the pieces up. I can't stress enough the benefits of straight line cutting for this stuff. Just cut it as you'd cut a piece of flat plate. Note the nice straight edges at the flanges, this is the result of holding the torch as straight as possible, and a "follow through" at the end of the cut (pretend you still have something to cut, even though you've actually reached the end of the cut)Very little is removed when grinding, the idea is to preserve the angle as well as you can. More material you remove, the more you might change the angle/dimensions. The dark spots indicate the small amount of material actually removed, you just want to dress your cut line.Next is fitup.After a preliminary eyeball check, and the use of a straightedge, to verify you're in the ballpark, then it's a little more precise. All the angles were within 72.3-72.5 degrees. I chose 72.4 degrees as the final setup. Because I used a square, and tape, to make the cut marks....I was off by about degree on the final cuts, which I can live with on something like this. Using the protractor would have been more accurate, but...................I wanted to see just how close my scale drawing related to actual measurements. A degree ain't bad.I know it all seems like anal overkill, but the practice on something like this makes for better work on the really important stuff."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:The welding is done with the pieces clamped to the table to prevent as much movement as possible, and to make sure everything is planar.Once the inside of the channel is welded with a flat no-grind weld, then it's flipped over, and the backside gouged to make for a full penetration weld. When you do this, look for clean metal. At the beginning of the grinding you'll notice a crack at the bottom of the V. Grind until you don't see a crack anymore. This lets you know that you've reached the face weld on the opposite side, ie. you've got full penetration.Weld and grind.Now here's where all the anal crap pays off. This thing needs a place to attach an angle brace, so it needs a crossmember.Because you paid attention to the initial angle, now it's just a simple matter of measuring for crossmember placement. Simply lay the thing on the steel, and mark the line for your cut on the backside. I like to do these in matched pairs. Each crossmember is individually marked, and kept with it's mating piece. This takes care of any variance between assemblies.Cut, clean, and fit it up."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Same same with all joints on the face of the channel. Grind to full penetration.And weld it up. I like to leave a slight crown on these welds. The crown is due to a slight buildup to make sure to fill the undercut. I use a gentle pushing motion to wash the metal back away from the arc to make for a nice uniform tie in which washes slightly over the undercut you've made.I had some issues with consumables, which I'll get into later when I get around to it. Some issues involving the characteristics of AC/DC."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I always feel like a total hack after watching you work Sam. Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Yep I know what ya mean...thanks Sam
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammFor guys that aren't good at geometry (like me), this is a good available calculator online http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm
Reply:Got some more done. Although it seems like baby steps.The tie plate that joins the top of the triangle leg deally will support the beam, so it serves two functions. I chose 3/16 plate, which is stout enough. It's going to be in shear, with the actual welds bearing most of the weight, not really the plate. So thicker material wouldn't be of any benefit.Layout is the same. Everything in matched pairs. Again, the placement is based on measurements from the bottom of the legs. For me, at this point, it's easier to just mark the plate as it sits on top of the legs. This takes care of any cumulative errors in assembly up to now. Because I'm manually cutting with the plasma, there's some waste. I need enough of a "wing" to allow the standoff guides to run on, so all pieces start out a bit oversized when measured to allow for this. The wide area to the left of the cut line is for the standoff guide to run on.Aside form the first cutoff piece, which is unavoidable, the strips are the wasted material. I figure it's still cheaper than a plasma tableI did mess up one tie plate, but was able to salvage it. Stuff happens (I'll put it on the backside when I put the thing out for use, this way I won't have to look at it every time I walk by)Also...........I believe I'm starting to have some consumables issues with the plasma. Noticing an extreme angle on the underside of the cut, with some pockmarking of the cut face (which leads me to believe the arc is wandering), and more slag than I've ever had. I'll put up some pics later so that the plasma doooods can maybe take a look-see. I'm thinking I've about reached the end of the electrode life, not sure."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I seldom do long welds. Mostly my stuff runs maybe 6" or so.Try as hard as I could, I couldn't do 9 1/2" of weld with one rod without burning it clear down to the rod holder. This plays hell with the holder by trying to melt the insulation around the clip that actually grabs the rod. So.............had to break the welds into two segments. I had to backstep the welds, something I don't do very often. Being a semi geezer, I tend not to see that I'm running up on the previous weld, and go too far before I realize it, and get a bit far into the previous bead Sort of an age, eyesight, prostate, liver, bunions sorta thing The arrow points to the absolute ABSOLUTE longest run I could make with one rodARC BLOW!!!!One of the bad things about DC is arc blow when welding in corners, or welding irregular shapes. It's a magnetic field thing. The only sure way to eliminate it is to weld on AC (which has been a real pet peeve for me these days, because the AC from Lincoln runs very unreliably nowdays for some reason) 1/8 Excalibur. The arc goes where it wants, and is almost impossible to control. I've heard all the recommendations out there, but mostly they don't work. Welding channel is the worst offender because of its shape.You can get sort of a handle on arc blow by switching to a smaller electrode. 3/32 Excalibur. But it's still a problem.AC is really the ONLY way to eliminate arc blow."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Nice work.
Reply:Got a bit more done today, after other stuff that needed doing.I'm at the point where I have to attach the final bit to the legs. The bottom of the legs will rest on 4x4 treated lumber. This keeps the steel off the ground, and distributes the weight when it rains, and gets boggy.I ran into kind of a cool fitup problem. It happens sometimes.One of the legs tweaked when it was welded, and I didn't feel it was worth the trouble to do a heat shrink on it. And I wanted to keep my angles/measurements as true as possible. Mainly because this whole mess has to be square/plumb with the beam when it comes time to attach it.I have a gap of about 1/8". Not the Grand Canyon, but still.........................To hold the gap from closing when tacked, I tap a screwdriver into the gap. The wedge shaped head will hold the gap from closing when it's tacked.Then I tack it, and the screwdriver keeps the gap open to it's original dimension.The tack will hold the gap from closing when it's finish welded. The weld follows the fitup. Now there's two ways you can do this, and it's a matter of aesthetics. ONE: You can take the weld out to the edge of the steel, and have to look at a wedge shaped weld for the rest of your natural life. TWO: You can follow the gap, make an even weld, and take your lumps. I chose #2 As far as strength, it's same-same. The filler you used to fill the gap has enough material to make for a very good bond. Same number of square inches of weld.To do the weld I used 3/32 because of the thin edge. Easier to control the heat. To fill the gap properly it took almost 2/3 of a rod, what with the amount of material that went into the gap. To do this you don't need to whip the rod. Just shove it in there, and keep it melting to fill the gap. While doing this......push your filler FROM THE BASE OF THE PUDDLE to make a buildup. DO NOT remove the rod from the base of the puddle, just push it from the bottom. Melt-push, melt-push, melt-push.So now we got that done On to arc blow"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Again with the arc blowInside corners positively suck. It's a magnetic thingAnyways, the switch to a smaller electrode for the inside corners has helped a bunch, as it always does. Arc is more controllable, with somewhat less dingleballs.For those of you that wonder about the gap between the channel, and the angle iron,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it's for a reason. I need to be able to square/plumb these legs with the beam, and I DON'T want to change any dimensions before I do that. Closing the gap will do severe damage to the angles.So, why doesn't he cope the channel where it meets the angle??????????I don't like doing that for something like this.The inside radius of the angle iron makes it necessary to hold the channel off a bit. You can't shove the channel in the corner, it's rounded If you cope it, you're back to checking dimensions again.And............(there's always an AND). The angle, without actually filling the gap, will hold a tremendous load. Look at your tables to determine how much tonnage it takes to make an air bend on something like this. Lotta tonnage, more than this thing will ever see.So, depending on my mood, I might not even fill the gap. Whadya think of that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It's all a moot question now, everything came to a screeching halt due to BEER NITE. I like to pop the first top at 3:00 sharp"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/ |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:06:06