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Stick rod help?

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:05:49 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I'm a rookie so bear with me. I'm just trying to find out the easiest approach on burning these pins out of this bucket.I've heard there is a stick rod that will accomplish this feat. What might that be? I have a Miller srh-333 welder if that helps any.Appreciate any advice. thank you,John-Last edited by johnpawl; 03-04-2015 at 08:00 AM.
Reply:I'd grind / cut the ends off, and use a drift pin to drive those out.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI'd grind / cut the ends off, and use a drift pin to drive those out.
Reply:Do you actually need to replace them???    If they are not needed, grind the fwakers flush and drink some beer.
Reply:Originally Posted by johnpawlalso had them cherry red and nothing...
Reply:Originally Posted by johnpawlI tried that and they won't budge. They have been in there for over 20 years, also had them cherry red and nothing...
Reply:6011 at max amps can burn stuff out and cut - but it is mighty messyHave you considered using an OA torch?  There is some risk to the hole, but I would be tempted to put on my heavy leather and burn it out with a cutting tip.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:On pins that were very stuck, I've drilled through the center with a smaller bit, then heated through the hole with a torch.This expands the pin when it gets hot - then when it cools it drives right out.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:You may be thinking of an oxy-lance. Way over kill for what your doing. Cut them off so that they are flush and pound them out. They went in they have to come out, probably bent and deformed. Maybe get a good drill bit and see if you can put a hole through them, then heat them and they will shrink when they cool.
Reply:Originally Posted by gwiley6011 at max amps can burn stuff out and cut - but it is mighty messyHave you considered using an OA torch?  There is some risk to the hole, but I would be tempted to put on my heavy leather and burn it out with a cutting tip.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DYou may be thinking of an oxy-lance. Way over kill for what your doing. Cut them off so that they are flush and pound them out. They went in they have to come out, probably bent and deformed. Maybe get a good drill bit and see if you can put a hole through them, then heat them and they will shrink when they cool.
Reply:Air arc or carbon arc cutting is different than an Oxylance. CAC uses a carbon electrode to create an arc, then uses air pressure to blow the molten steel out of the way. An Oxylance or exothermic torch works much the way OA does. You start the reaction often with an arc or some times even a cutting torch, then apply 100% O2 down the center of the hollow consumable rod. Just like OA, you oxidize the material and blow it out of the way.CAC is often used to gouge out welds in preparation for material replacement, like cutting out the floor of a bucket or the welds holding the shanks to the bucket. Down side is it requires a big welder with a high duty cycle and a good size air compressor, plus the specialized airarc torch ( though some people will make a poor mans one using a stinger and blow gun for occasional work).One thing about oxy lances is that they will cut just about anything, steel, concrete, wood, nonferous metals and so on. This makes them useful for certain specialized cutting operations like underwater cutting or rescue work..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAir arc or carbon arc cutting is different than an Oxylance. CAC uses a carbon electrode to create an arc, then uses air pressure to blow the molten steel out of the way. An Oxylance or exothermic torch works much the way OA does. You start the reaction often with an arc or some times even a cutting torch, then apply 100% O2 down the center of the hollow consumable rod. Just like OA, you oxidize the material and blow it out of the way.CAC is often used to gouge out welds in preparation for material replacement, like cutting out the floor of a bucket or the welds holding the shanks to the bucket. Down side is it requires a big welder with a high duty cycle and a good size air compressor, plus the specialized airarc torch ( though some people will make a poor mans one using a stinger and blow gun for occasional work).One thing about oxy lances is that they will cut just about anything, steel, concrete, wood, nonferous metals and so on. This makes them useful for certain specialized cutting operations like underwater cutting or rescue work.
Reply:If you do heat the pins, get them hot and then spray them with cold water from a hose. Sometimes the shock breaks up the rust enough so you can drift them right out. There's a lot of mass around the small diameter pin, when you heat that mass the pin gets heated and expands too. Shock it....1963 SA 200 Redface, rebuilt by me, bodywork by CEP Everlast 255EXT w/W300 coolerMiller 212 AutosetMiller Xtreme 375Bridgeport MillSouth Bend 9" Lathe
Reply:johnpawlIf the pin removal is to fit new ripper teeth - you may be SOL.The ripper shanks are so worn/misshapen that they probably will not properly support new rippers = bent/fractured pins.To put this bucket back in service - you are likely looking at all new ripper shanks.Opus
Reply:heat pins and spray some corrosion x ( avail from amazon) on it, this stuff dissolves the rust and has properties that let it wick deep into tight spots and loosens stuff up..Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Thanks all !
Reply:Originally Posted by johnpawlI've heard there is a stick rod that will accomplish this feat. Appreciate any advice. thank you,John-
Reply:Originally Posted by FORTEALLOYYour problem already solved, but for future reference, try Esab / All-State "Green Blaster", designed for cutting or chamfering. I tried it recently while removing a dozen bolts from the cutter bar on my dozer. Hobbyist without OA or plasma, and using an angle grinder overhead is a pain. Burned up a good handful of 6011's on the first 2 bolts, then LWS suggested Green Blaster. Got the remaining 10 off in less time than it took to do the first 2.
Reply:Finished product:
Reply:Did they fit on tight? otherwise i always pad weld them to build them up to a good fit, if not as mentioned it'll break the pins and you'll be searching for lost teeth. Most of my customers have all gone away from that style of tooth. Now they're all going to the 1/4 turn design. I have yet to hear any of them complain about losing them or having them get loose and sloppy.Glad you got the pins out!!-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:I'd have said the shanks are worn enough the teeth won't stay on. Mine needs it too. Burn with acetylene torch flush with cutting edge. Use a BIG cutting tip, burn the old shank off flat. I'd add a piece of grouser stock to the edge to build it up and hard surface it, then add new shanks.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveOn pins that were very stuck, I've drilled through the center with a smaller bit, then heated through the hole with a torch.This expands the pin when it gets hot - then when it cools it drives right out.
Reply:Originally Posted by OMBThat works if the pinhole is vertical, you could drill it out but the pic shows horizontal holes, I don't see how one could get a drill and bit between the shanks... good tip when it can be done though. I've had this problem, put an old tip in the O/A and burned them out.On a related note, a friend of mine said he repeatedly witnessed a hot shot with a torch burn frozen head bolts out of a block without damaging the threads- has something to do with the casting is a different alloy I guess- I'm still not believin'.
Reply:Originally Posted by derekpfeifferDid they fit on tight? otherwise i always pad weld them to build them up to a good fit, if not as mentioned it'll break the pins and you'll be searching for lost teeth. Most of my customers have all gone away from that style of tooth. Now they're all going to the 1/4 turn design. I have yet to hear any of them complain about losing them or having them get loose and sloppy.Glad you got the pins out!!Originally Posted by derekpfeifferDid they fit on tight? otherwise i always pad weld them to build them up to a good fit, if not as mentioned it'll break the pins and you'll be searching for lost teeth. Most of my customers have all gone away from that style of tooth. Now they're all going to the 1/4 turn design. I have yet to hear any of them complain about losing them or having them get loose and sloppy.Glad you got the pins out!!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI'd grind / cut the ends off, and use a drift pin to drive those out.
Reply:Like to have a dollar for every pin I've driven out with these. The B&O works great for boom pins! Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPLike to have a dollar for every pin I've driven out with these. The B&O works great for boom pins!
Reply:Originally Posted by Firemanmike69Is that a piece of threaded rod as a handle ? We've got one at the shop that has 1 1/2" cable as the handle, doesn't hurt your hands when the other guy hits with with the sledge
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