Welding a cast iron/steel electric motor housing

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I searched and found a lot of mixed results. I took this motor apart for a thorough cleaning and in the process a chunk fell out. I found cracks all along the area so I put it in a toaster oven at 150* and the cracks opened up a little so I'm hoping it relieved some of the stresses.  My main question is what would be my best route of repair. It isn't a structural piece that I can tell. More or less it's there to keep fragments of metal out (it's for a lathe). I thought brazing would best suit this repair but if anyone has a better option my ears are open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yep brazing is good........zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Should I get rid for cast iron or is brass rod okay. I have smith rod I think it's called silver light or something like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:It don't really do anything..No vibrations..No stress..Just kinda sits there and does nothing.Upon further review....... Ahem.........J- B Weld on clean surfaces would suffice just fine..Or even Gorilla Glue would be  OK....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:pre heat the cast iron. grab you some 7018 and weld it back up. easy fix. done several times. Weld it up and grind it flush. You will get deposition into the cast iron when you pre heat the product then weld it. I have done this several times. Heck we have even used a 308 or 309 stainless rod before and achieved the same outcome. My bad I think 309 is stainless to stainless. 308 is mild steel to stainless. or vice versa. ANYWAYS it works I promise, get the stick welder out.Last edited by AndrewDavenport89; 03-31-2015 at 11:28 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterIt don't really do anything..No vibrations..No stress..Just kinda sits there and does nothing.Upon further review....... Ahem.........J- B Weld on clean surfaces would suffice just fine..Or even Gorilla Glue would be  OK....zap!
Reply:Brazing is a good option for cast iron repairs most of the time. Can't find a reason not to braze that, so go right ahead.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterIt don't really do anything..No vibrations..No stress..Just kinda sits there and does nothing.Upon further review....... Ahem.........J- B Weld on clean surfaces would suffice just fine..Or even Gorilla Glue would be  OK....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepIsn't that where the STP decal goes?
Reply:Op: you never stated what welding processes you have. You could mig, tig, stick,  or braze it.
Reply:Originally Posted by That Guy ThereOp: you never stated what welding processes you have. You could mig, tig, stick,  or braze it.
Reply:With O/A and brass rod you eliminate any possible stress cracking issues. Just let it cool off slowly.ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:I decided to tig it just to get the practice in. First attempt went real bad and the cracks went nuts. I felt like it was going to happen but did nothing to prevent it besides preheat. I tried 1/16 thoriated tungsten at 78 amps to begin with using 3/32" er70s6 filler and didn't like it much so I switched to 3/32 thoriated tungsten and so far I like it a lot better. i forgot I put a few holes in it. Filled most them up so far. This one keeps opening up on me though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Just as a note. Should have gone with a softer filler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:strtspdlx Originally Posted by strtspdlxJust as a note. Should have gone with a softer filler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:It's a good learning experience. I'm sure it's been discussed before or someone has this knowledge but I like to learn first hand. And for something so insignificant I'd rather screw up here then on a customers. Opus- are you saying to tig weld with Brazing rod? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I have a cast iron support for an old water pump, and think silver solder will make an almost invisible repair. Hoping to avoid brazing. Should be interesting.
Reply:Im telling you, preheat that sucker and take a 3/32 7018 or 308 rod and it works perfect. Ive done it several times and what I welded up is still on that old CAT engine making it purrrrrr
Reply:Originally Posted by AndrewDavenport89Im telling you, preheat that sucker and take a 3/32 7018 or 308 rod and it works perfect. Ive done it several times and what I welded up is still on that old CAT engine making it purrrrrr
Reply:cast iron has properties close to stainless steel because of the high carbon content which makes it brittle and less ductile. It has turned into a martensitic steel. WHICH is why the pre heat temperature is important. Then after the welding has taken place you can turn that torch back on for safe measures and slowly let it cool by waving the torch at it while you smoke your cig for a few seconds then let it cool slowly by air. Some people even weld the piece heat it back up and place fiberglass wraps around it so that it cools at a slower temperature with the blanket on it. There are many different ways to skin a cat on this one! Im going to try and hook this TIG rig up in the shop and get a bottle of gas for it. ALSO!! there is another way to do this. KEEP IT COOL!! I have always preheated and put lots of heat to it in the beginning. get it cherry red hot and let it slightly cool then weld. But the other way is to keep it as cool as possible. in other words get it cleaned and prepped for welding, weld the joint at low heat. just low enough you can keep an arc and make a pretty bead. and that's that.  P.S. ive never used the cold weld method but it sounds easier! Ole timers always told me to preheat and post heat and cool slowly and it has never failed me yet buddy!http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx
Reply:309 rod works great on cast iron....has enough give to be crack resistant....work in short welds to keep base metal cooler....Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Originally Posted by AndrewDavenport89cast iron has properties close to stainless steel because of the high carbon content which makes it brittle and less ductile. It has turned into a martensitic steel. WHICH is why the pre heat temperature is important. Then after the welding has taken place you can turn that torch back on for safe measures and slowly let it cool by waving the torch at it while you smoke your cig for a few seconds then let it cool slowly by air. Some people even weld the piece heat it back up and place fiberglass wraps around it so that it cools at a slower temperature with the blanket on it. There are many different ways to skin a cat on this one! Im going to try and hook this TIG rig up in the shop and get a bottle of gas for it. ALSO!! there is another way to do this. KEEP IT COOL!! I have always preheated and put lots of heat to it in the beginning. get it cherry red hot and let it slightly cool then weld. But the other way is to keep it as cool as possible. in other words get it cleaned and prepped for welding, weld the joint at low heat. just low enough you can keep an arc and make a pretty bead. and that's that.  P.S. ive never used the cold weld method but it sounds easier! Ole timers always told me to preheat and post heat and cool slowly and it has never failed me yet buddy!http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx
Reply:3/32 will work im sure. Its like the sour cream commercials.... A DOLLOP OF DAISY WILL DO YA! lol BUT don't get me to lying now because im not a GTAW expert. There are guys here that really know their stuff when it comes to Heli-arc. I can use it and make it look good if I have help setting everything up. My forte is stick welding. That's why im going to try and hook this tig rig up here in the shop and get some straight argon and do some practicing/trial and error!
Reply:TIG  I woulda went in order 99ni, 55ni, 309, or silicon bronze. 99 is the most crack resistant but expensive, 55 cheaper and wets out better, 309 cheap but has enough nickel to get it done most of the time, si bronze works well if color match does not matter.  Many other processes and fillers would work too.PeterEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:strtspdlx Originally Posted by strtspdlx Opus- are you saying to tig weld with Brazing rod?Originally Posted by OPUS FERROstrtspdlxNo - I was saying to OA braze - review 'early consensus'.   The place and shape of the fracture is quit curious; and as noted [z] - 'the piece/area doesn't do anything'.Brazing inflicts the least deformation, and is always considered when the repair area has machined surfaces.During my tramp-field-construction days - I would braze daily due to the type of repairs, and constructs.In contrast - my stationary shop seem to only generate ni/TIG repairs.If TIG was my only option [ditto castweld] - it would be ni99, ni55, siBronze - all in stock, most sizes.I have yet to used any SS rod - 309 is 15% max. nickel.  Nickel's bonding mechanism is carbon absorption - and 15% seems too anemic for a guaranteed return on the prep-effort.Although a successful/near-invisible TIG repair was possible; I would braze for distortion control [nostalgic practice], and because brazing is a higher skill level.Brazing is naked because it's all on you - and not the machine.Opus
Reply:yes brazing rod works fairly nice, however since the only thing i use mig for is for filling holes, then try using mig to fill the last whole. Good luck!VictorPraxairAir LiquideMillerLincoln Electric
Reply:I got the hole all filled up. It was. About the size of a half dollar using a copper backing strip I was able to get it filled up. I think I'll grind it out as it cracked in all different directions and I'm noticing now some of my first passes have little cracks. Regards-Carlo