How to weld a large frame flat, square, and straight?

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I have a client that needs a 6' X 30' sliding gate.My fabrication table is only 4' X 16'My question is how do you weld something true, straight, and flat without a 30' table?Concrete is not completely even, so laying out directly on driveway won't work either.Thanks!
Reply:What is the length and type of material you are using ? Got a picture ? Adjustable pipe stands is what I use. I made 4'' channel tops for my '' V '' heads that drop right down. Setup in the stands, level, clamp. and go. As for the inbetweens, clamp angle at location and set piece on top of angles to hold where you want it . If you have a bow use 3/4'' Pony pipe clamps to hold together. Pipe stands, clamps , more clamps, squares, and 3/4 '' Pony clamps make a job easier.
Reply:If you would rather not buy a bunch of stands, the best bet would be to use your drive way and buy a mixture of wooden and plastic shims. I say plastic also because you can get those thinner than wood for fine adjustment. Then get some sections of 2x4 longer than 6' for the supports, using your judgement on how many you would need. Then using a string line and a level (and preferably some helpers to stand on the 2x4s so you can pull the string line tight) shim the ends of the 2x4s to get you the flat and level support surface.
Reply:I widen the table using square or rectangle tubing.For that length I would just slide it along as I've tacked it up or put some sawhorses out that I clamp pieces to for height adjustment.I also have 2 adjustable stands that are for the drill press and chop saw - they get used for this too.Where possible I use the 4 leveling stands that I have - they came off an old travel trailer and are screw adjustable.I also use packs of door/window shims as needed for fine tuning.I don't weld down on the floor unless it's an emergency and someone would die if I didn't Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:truck or trailer bed, use a jack to tween the bed to level most likely it will be a small twist, in it, even saw horses or drums,  use a level, and level the steel, use shims blocks under the corners that are needed, to make the frame level,
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1What is the length and type of material you are using ? Got a picture ? Adjustable pipe stands is what I use. I made 4'' channel tops for my '' V '' heads that drop right down. Setup in the stands, level, clamp. and go. As for the inbetweens, clamp angle at location and set piece on top of angles to hold where you want it . If you have a bow use 3/4'' Pony pipe clamps to hold together. Pipe stands, clamps , more clamps, squares, and 3/4 '' Pony clamps make a job easier.
Reply:30'...sounds to me like the first step would be splicing some material together straight and true unless you can special order from the mill.  I would build it the same way I build any square frame.  Tack an L shape together flat on your welding table.  Repeat for the 2nd piece.  Use an adjustable height stand or two to support along with the table for the final welding.  Assume there would be some cross members tacked in before hand.Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200Lincoln SP-175 PlusDynabrade 52636Grizzly Lathe + friendsAll in a barn too far awayCertifiably uncertified
Reply:Originally Posted by TheBFA Then using a string line and a level (and preferably some helpers to stand on the 2x4s so you can pull the string line tight) shim the ends of the 2x4s to get you the flat and level support surface.
Reply:jumpinjivinjoeTo save yourself - and the WW's time - supply:the sight, the surface, the design, and material specifications, the fit & finish expectations,the vertical support specifications, the: actuator/swing/transfer specifications; and, the installation plan."The details are not the details. They make the design." CEBuilding is the easy part - and can be done on blocks in the dirt if you have the expertise.  If you haven't considered all of these details - I'd sub the job: to a shop/fabricator that can add to these considerations . . .  and take a finders fee.OpuspsAnswer the above - and I'll tell you how to do it in the dirt . . .
Reply:When I have to level large fabrications I used to use a transit and a steel rule.  This made it a two person job.  Now I use a rotary laser and receiver.  The receiver reads +/- 2 inches, and to .020 in fine mode.  This is plenty good for a large weldment, and is a one person job.
Reply:Ok, let's get real hereWorried about a 30' gate, how do ya think they build ships that are as long as a city block???Gee whiz.......This chop saw table is exactly 30' long.  It's set up on sawhorses, and eye sighted to be straight, and planar.  FORGET ABOUT LEVEL, IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE LEVEL IF IT'S PLANAR You don't need levels, transits, or other crap......use your eyes to level it.  The eye can detect something that's out of level by as little as 1/16" over 30'.  I build a lot of stuff, and it's all made this way.......on saw horses.  ON UNLEVEL GROUND."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Set the stuff on supports, and shim under the steel until it's flat."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:A gate ain't a super tanker, use yer eyes.  Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin' how it should be done the easy way, and still have a quality product"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Here think about this divide and conquer You have a table that you  can build 2- 6 by 15 pieces one then join them together once on site much easier on you and the client gets what he  wants. In all reality a 30 x 6 ft gate is not going to work that well unless you are adding roller to support it either on the ground  which will need to be level and hard or above with it hanging from supports. A 30 ft long sliding gate would need to be about 40 plus ft long to be able to work on the rollers and still stay up right when closed.  The weight alone to make it strong enough to support itself is going to be a lot more than you or he thinks.  Now if this gate is to keep or secure an area then it need to be heavier yet. Personally I would talk him into a split gate meeting in the middle. This is what a regular guys that do fencing would recommend.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammA gate ain't a super tanker, use yer eyes.  Not trying to be a jerk, just sayin' how it should be done the easy way, and still have a quality product