Help - Core drill choices

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MetalMan23 has convinced me that I need to core drill my handrail posts instead of using base plates. He referred me to Amazon as a source for inexpensive core drill motors. I cannot justify $1000+ for a name brand as I will only use it for handrails 4-5 times a year. Has anyone used one they particularly like or dislike? And why? Where did you purchase it? Any tips or advice since I have never used one or installed handrails that way? Hopefully this thread can serve as a reference for others interested in handrails. Thank you in advance for sound, thoughtful advice.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I have bought several core drills all import... if I did more of these jobs that need corring I'd probably get a better(name brand) core rig. The first one I bought oh I don't know 10-12 years ago....I think it was about 100-120 bux delivered and then I bought an assortment of bits I thought would work  1-1/2, 1-15/8, 1-3/4... all too small for 1.5 railing unless you're the greatest fabber out there  I found that a minimum of 2.5inch preferably 3 inch will suffice for measuring errors and minor adjustment.. however it'll take more 'setting compound' but it's worth it not to have other issues  I think the bits ran about 30-50 bux for anything up to 3-4 inch OD and 16+ inches long and unless you're constantly going through big rebar you'll probably get 100 holes out of a standard bit(import).On one of my first jobs the power switch fried itself fortunately I only had a few holes to go and after half an hour of core rig surgery I had it fixed(hardwired the switch on) so I had to unplug it to stop it!!! was interesting when it would jam!!! that night I ordered a backup   of course if wouldn't be til the next job a few weeks later that I would find out about the different core rig threads and how my backup drill had metric threads for the bits instead of the standard 1-1/4  that night I ordered another backup.... but soon found out that even when they say the drill is using standard threads it isn't (they lied!!!)So the other day I had to do some bigger holes and ordered up a couple more big rigs  these will handle up to 10 inch and I got a few bits to go with them... the bits 100-200 ea. depending on quality the drills were ~200-230 ea. they seem to work good.. little different setup - these come with an inline gfci breaker and an actual circuit breaker euro style for the on/off switch.. but they aren't mag switches.. so watch out if you trip something one other thing... these are metric!!! except for the bit arbor it is the 1-1/4 standard but the rest is metric!!!.... a problem which I plan to rectify on mine when I get time... I will drill all the threads out and helicoil them out to standard stuff.... makes things a lot simpler when you need to 'improvise' to get a job doneLastly, I NEVER buy from AMZ(they're evil) most of my stuff is from ebay sellers or direct importers on the west coast.. usually cali.Last edited by ronsii; 12-03-2020 at 11:27 PM.
Reply:Here is one of the last drills I bought... it's a bigger one so has mounting plate.. for handrails I just did them freehand with the cheaper hand drill rigs.I think these guys sell the smaller ones also...https://www.ebay.com/itm/4450W-Diamo...72.m2749.l2649
Reply:Oh.... one other thing(again) as long as I'm here   I probably put this in other threads long ago but for placement of the holes I would just put my boots in a 'V' shape to get the bit started where I wanted it and then push down for a minute or three depending on how big you're boring and how deep... I had also made up some plywood guides with a 'V' cut out of the ends that you could stand on if there was enough room, this would hold the bit completely immovable so it could not wander if the holes had to be very precise!!! most aren't so I doubt you'll have an issue there  Oh, you're gonna get a little wetOne more thing I just remembered is so far all these import drills do NOT use stainless in their wet parts... so if you don't run oil...something through them after use they will rust and take out the seal for the water swivel... and then you WILL get a lot wetter the next job you do... again I learned this the hard way  Oh... and when I'm hand drilling I usually rest the handle on my leg so if it stalls I can control it! the smaller hand drills aren't like a good old black and decker hole hawg where it can break your leg but they aren't wussies either  they can get away from you if you're just using hands to control them... for straight drilling in 4-6 inch sidewalk you shouldn't have issues... it's when you start drilling in stub walls with rebar layers and plates that can get grabby! I also like to drill all the way through sidewalks as it gives a place for the water to drain and not break the walk when freezing and the railing fills up with water  on stub walls you can't do this so you have to have other plans about keeping the water out of the core hole!!!  at least around here and other places it freezes good.  of course most everyone that does this doesn't have any means to keep water out....and it shows after a few seasons... the walls start blowing apart from the inside Last edited by ronsii; 12-03-2020 at 11:38 PM.
Reply:I bought a big Milwaukee years ago, and it has more than paid for itself. Before I bought one, and even now if I am busy, or the flooring is super expensive, I just hire it out. It usually comes to about $25 per hole.
Reply:Have you tried the SDS style drills? Generally you can run them free hand. I don't do hand rails so maybe someone who uses these will chime in.The smallest core drill I have is 5". The issue with a core drill is the need to anchor it. I generally sink anchors but my Milwaukee also has a vacuum foot that I use when I do not want to leave anchor holes. I picked up my drill used and it paid has easily paid for itself.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireHave you tried the SDS style drills? Generally you can run them free hand. I don't do hand rails so maybe someone who uses these will chime in.The smallest core drill I have is 5". The issue with a core drill is the need to anchor it. I generally sink anchors but my Milwaukee also has a vacuum foot that I use when I do not want to leave anchor holes. I picked up my drill used and it paid has easily paid for itself.
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtThat is a good point about the SDS. I have a nice Bosch SDS plus and I see adapters that will work. I considered that but don’t know about keeping the core wet and it doesn’t have a clutch in case it gets hung up. Has anybody drilled cores with SDS? Any issues or tips on how well it works? Might be easier than I think. And cheaper.
Reply:I have 5-6 bosch sds drills and all of them have clutches if you stick the bit....I am curious which model you have that doesn't have one? or maybe it just takes a *lot* of force to open the clutch up!!!  I know I can break 1/4 inch bits all day long if I'm not careful!!! and have broke 3/8 bits but usually they will trip the clutch
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiI have 5-6 bosch sds drills and all of them have clutches if you stick the bit....I am curious which model you have that doesn't have one? or maybe it just takes a *lot* of force to open the clutch up!!!  I know I can break 1/4 inch bits all day long if I'm not careful!!! and have broke 3/8 bits but usually they will trip the clutch
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtI’m not certain there is no clutch, but never had it trip if there is one. I was concerned of the torque if it hangs up. Thanks for the reply!
Reply:How long does it take to drill a hole with a percussion core bit? Into solid concrete.  I wouldn't suggest using one on brick steps. It could move them or crack them. Especially near the edge.I have an adaptor to use a core saw on for a regular large drill. Issue I had... the adapter adds about 2 inches in length.  And creates a weak point with the small shaft, it readily bent.  Wobbly saw = no good.9"  Angle grinders work well , plenty of leverage for safety.  Speed might be a bit high for smaller bits.  But it will work and fast.  Just not economical on saw consumption, comparable to lower rpm tools.  I get about 70 holes with my WEKA drill, failure due to straight teeth wear.With my angle grinder 30, mostly due to broken teeth or saw core being abraded away.It is not easy on the grinder either.  Not sure why...perhaps there is a lot more torque than it feels.  Though I never started with a new grinder I just bought second hand grinders.A large core rig is not for general rail install. Heavy loading and unloading,  lots of shimming, limited access against walls.  And lots of position and adjusting.Last edited by tapwelder; 12-08-2020 at 03:01 PM.
Reply:I’m fine buying one of the Chinese handheld core drills (about $250). I think I will go that route. Here is my next dilemma- the jobsite is brick pavers on a concrete block foundation. There is not a layer of concrete between the block and pavers. I am thinking they used the block as concrete form and maybe filled in the blocks. Any issues core drilling and installing in this?I appreciate everyone’s comments as I want to do a good job installing. I have always used baseplates but I am convinced drilling is a better installation.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtI’m fine buying one of the Chinese handheld core drills (about $250). I think I will go that route. Here is my next dilemma- the jobsite is brick pavers on a concrete block foundation. There is not a layer of concrete between the block and pavers. I am thinking they used the block as concrete form and maybe filled in the blocks. Any issues core drilling and installing in this?I appreciate everyone’s comments as I want to do a good job installing. I have always used baseplates but I am convinced drilling is a better installation.
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiNot quite sure what you mean by not a layer of concrete between them...???We have ran into walkways where they poured a rat slab on the dirt(rough uneven unlevel in... everything) then they poured between 3/4inch and 4 inch of some kind of cementious semisoft??? Then a layer of grout the pavers were set into. Not a big deal but very disturbing when trying to core it.
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtHey Ronsil,I mean there is not a 2”-3” layer of concrete on top of the blocks, then mortar bed for pavers. It’s possible they used sawn blocks as form with concrete flush with top of blocks. Of course it could be the holes of blocks are filled and concrete swung level with blocks across the porch. My concern is if I drill through pavers, thin mortar bed, and into blocks if that will be strong for handrails? Kind of like you said about the “rat slab”. If only mortar in block holes that may not be as solid as needed. I may be overly cautious but just don’t want to cause any problem.
Reply:We core drill every day .Usually 2 1/2 " , some 50mm and some 75mmYou cannot go past a Weka DK1603Highly recommend if available in USA good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:I always used the handheld Eibenstock, I think you can get it for about $800.00 I like the longer one with two speeds. I use it at high speed with a two-inch bit, to core for 1 1/4" I.D. pipe with a 1 5/8" O.D. You can mark and core six to eight 2" diameter holes 4' deep in about 15 minutes. I usually get 30 to 40 holes out of a 2" diamond bit, the last ten bind more while coring. I use QuickRock to fill the holes.  https://www.jansensupply.com/product...spx?dataid=QRK  Do not under any circumstances listen to the directions on the QuickRock. When you mix it you want a thick chocolate milk consistency, I put a little water into the small container I want to mix it in, and then the QuickRock and then slowly add more water it does not need much water. I mix enough to pour one or two holes at a time. It sets so fast especially in the summer that is all you can get done. I mix it in a large coffee cup and do one and a half holes at a time, or if I have plastic paint cups I do two holes at a time. Get the soft paint cups so you can bend them into a point to pour from. You put your container up against the railing and let it run down the rail into the hole. What I do is lay my rail in place and level it, sometimes I use the double handled wooden clamps to hold it up and hold it level if I am alone. and then, with a nice new four-inch soapstone up against the vertical, I create a mark on the stoop and steps below the rail, some verticles might be off the stoop the reason for the 4-inch soapstone. You do not need to trace around the pipe just mark four sides 90 degrees apart. When you first core you should bring a piece of plywood with a two-inch hole in it that you can line up and stand on while you start the core. After a while, and from forgetting to bring the plywood you get very good at figuring out how to start it between the tips of your boots. Once the hole is started you do not need the plywood or your boots. I have heard there are some decent core drills out there, I just haven't found them yet. But it has been a while since I looked for one. The core rigs are somewhat useless for rails on a stoop and most move too slowly for a two-inch bit. The QuickRock recommends a four to a six-inch core for a 1 1/4" pipe, that is just insane and looks like such crap that you cannot even imagine. I actually get cement dye and add some to the quick rock so it looks like the rail grew out of the stone. But I cheat I pour the pure QuickRock to 3/4" or 5/8" below the surface on all the holes, and then at the end, I go back with the dyed QuickRock and finish it off. I also pour the dyed cement high, wait till it sets a little, and shape it, like a weld around the vertical. All this sounds mind-boggling however I am usually finished totally within an hour from when I arrive for a simple set of steps. The directions on the QuickRock say it is good to use below freezing this is not the case. Never try it in the cold unless you have a kerosene space heater with you to preheat the stoop and steps. In the sun on a hot day use ice water to mix it and only do one hole at a time and pour anything left in the next hole. You do not want to pour the quick rock on the stoop as it will find the pores of the brick, stone, or cement and stay there. I carry a little stainless steel wire brush to clean off any unwanted stuff. Your best bet is to pour it, do any dying if you like that, and then quickly clean up any material before it hardens fully. QuickRock is grey like cement. You can use a hose with low pressure to help wash away the contamination you remove because the material around the verticles usually gets hard fast, except on cold days. Start coring on the bottom step, so you are not standing in water the whole time you core. Sincerely, William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickI always used the handheld Eibenstock, I think you can get it for about $800.00 I like the longer one with two speeds. I use it at high speed with a two-inch bit, to core for 1 1/4" I.D. pipe with a 1 5/8" O.D. You can mark and core six to eight 2" diameter holes 4' deep in about 15 minutes. I usually get 30 to 40 holes out of a 2" diamond bit, the last ten bind more while coring. I use QuickRock to fill the holes.  https://www.jansensupply.com/product...spx?dataid=QRK  Do not under any circumstances listen to the directions on the QuickRock. When you mix it you want a thick chocolate milk consistency, I put a little water into the small container I want to mix it in, and then the QuickRock and then slowly add more water it does not need much water. I mix enough to pour one or two holes at a time. It sets so fast especially in the summer that is all you can get done. I mix it in a large coffee cup and do one and a half holes at a time, or if I have plastic paint cups I do two holes at a time. Get the soft paint cups so you can bend them into a point to pour from. You put your container up against the railing and let it run down the rail into the hole. What I do is lay my rail in place and level it, sometimes I use the double handled wooden clamps to hold it up and hold it level if I am alone. and then, with a nice new four-inch soapstone up against the vertical, I create a mark on the stoop and steps below the rail, some verticles might be off the stoop the reason for the 4-inch soapstone. You do not need to trace around the pipe just mark four sides 90 degrees apart. When you first core you should bring a piece of plywood with a two-inch hole in it that you can line up and stand on while you start the core. After a while, and from forgetting to bring the plywood you get very good at figuring out how to start it between the tips of your boots. Once the hole is started you do not need the plywood or your boots. I have heard there are some decent core drills out there, I just haven't found them yet. But it has been a while since I looked for one. The core rigs are somewhat useless for rails on a stoop and most move too slowly for a two-inch bit. The QuickRock recommends a four to a six-inch core for a 1 1/4" pipe, that is just insane and looks like such crap that you cannot even imagine. I actually get cement dye and add some to the quick rock so it looks like the rail grew out of the stone. But I cheat I pour the pure QuickRock to 3/4" or 5/8" below the surface on all the holes, and then at the end, I go back with the dyed QuickRock and finish it off. I also pour the dyed cement high, wait till it sets a little, and shape it, like a weld around the vertical. All this sounds mind-boggling however I am usually finished totally within an hour from when I arrive for a simple set of steps. The directions on the QuickRock say it is good to use below freezing this is not the case. Never try it in the cold unless you have a kerosene space heater with you to preheat the stoop and steps. In the sun on a hot day use ice water to mix it and only do one hole at a time and pour anything left in the next hole. You do not want to pour the quick rock on the stoop as it will find the pores of the brick, stone, or cement and stay there. I carry a little stainless steel wire brush to clean off any unwanted stuff. Your best bet is to pour it, do any dying if you like that, and then quickly clean up any material before it hardens fully. QuickRock is grey like cement. You can use a hose with low pressure to help wash away the contamination you remove because the material around the verticles usually gets hard fast, except on cold days. Start coring on the bottom step, so you are not standing in water the whole time you core. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:https://www.contractorsdirect.com/Ei...Wet-Core-DrillA Turkey baster works great for removing water in the core hole. You cannot leave water in the core it will mess up the Quickrock. Most cores in brick are not waterproof, so the water slowly drains away, but some do not drain and have to be dried out. You can use a rag to suck it up, and then ring it out too. If you are on a stoop that the cores are leaking you can mix up a thick batch of quick rock and just pour a little into all the holes that are leaking not filling them but just to seal the hole. Then finish them with the chocolate milk consistency QuickRock. It takes some practice before you can tell if you have a leaker or if you have sealed it or not. The trick is not to panic, better to waste a cup of QuickRock than to spill it all over or set the rail incorrectly. Bring lots of paper cups and or soft paint cups. The reason I like the long Eibenstock is that you can more easily see your core angle as you are coring. Sincerely, William McCormickLast edited by William McCormick; 12-09-2020 at 06:51 AM.If I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:For handrailing? A few times a year? I'd rather just weld base plates on, use a normal SDS drill and anchor bolts. I certainly wouldn't want a specific core drilling machine... maybe a combined SDS drill with a clutch or anti-kickback for a core drill bit.
Reply:Also with the long Eibenstock, you can let the side handle rest up against your leg to keep it from spinning. And stand upright not bending over for the whole duration of the core. It is so much easier to see the core angle when you are not bending over. This alone is well worth any price. Sincerely, William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:Originally Posted by MunkulFor handrailing? A few times a year? I'd rather just weld base plates on, use a normal SDS drill and anchor bolts. I certainly wouldn't want a specific core drilling machine... maybe a combined SDS drill with a clutch or anti-kickback for a core drill bit.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickAlso with the long Eibenstock, you can let the side handle rest up against your leg to keep it from spinning. And stand upright not bending over for the whole duration of the core. It is so much easier to see the core angle when you are not bending over. This alone is well worth any price. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by MunkulFor handrailing? A few times a year? I'd rather just weld base plates on, use a normal SDS drill and anchor bolts. I certainly wouldn't want a specific core drilling machine... maybe a combined SDS drill with a clutch or anti-kickback for a core drill bit.Originally Posted by MunkulFor handrailing? A few times a year? I'd rather just weld base plates on, use a normal SDS drill and anchor bolts. I certainly wouldn't want a specific core drilling machine... maybe a combined SDS drill with a clutch or anti-kickback for a core drill bit.
Reply:I cannot see why coring would automatically be stronger.  I core primarily for consistency of install,  I have not found it faster on install than plates.   I am also not fond of bolting a 3 ft leave atop a brick wall .My logic...an appropriately sized plate with appropriate bolts would be stronger and last longer than cored post since,  A proper weld is stronger than the base metal.  In addition to a larger mounting area. Even bolt tensile strength is greater than the base.  All considering a solid mounting surface. Coring allows me to attack multiple surfaces without concern for the surface failure. Under percussion drilling ,  Brick and pavers are notorious for moving or cracking.  Movement allows water infiltration and future brick pop. Ultimately ,  I do not want to turn a 45 minute job into an all day job. Rail layout make a huge difference too in stability.  Don't do 49 straight linear feet atop a red brick wall with blue tapcons and call it good.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI cannot see why coring would automatically be stronger.  I core primarily for consistency of install,  I have not found it faster on install than plates.   I am also not fond of bolting a 3 ft leave atop a brick wall .My logic...an appropriately sized plate with appropriate bolts would be stronger and last longer than cored post since,  A proper weld is stronger than the base metal.  In addition to a larger mounting area. Even bolt tensile strength is greater than the base.  All considering a solid mounting surface. Coring allows me to attack multiple surfaces without concern for the surface failure. Under percussion drilling ,  Brick and pavers are notorious for moving or cracking.  Movement allows water infiltration and future brick pop. Ultimately ,  I do not want to turn a 45 minute job into an all day job. Rail layout make a huge difference too in stability.  Don't do 49 straight linear feet atop a red brick wall with blue tapcons and call it good.
Reply:I think I mentioned it in the other thread but not here... I use one of the 1 or 2 gallon pump sprayers from home depot as a water source when there isn't water available, depending on how many holes their size and depth a 1 gallon is fine for just a few small holes as it doesn't take much water anyways just enough to keep the tip cool and flush out chips
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI cannot see why coring would automatically be stronger.  I core primarily for consistency of install,  I have not found it faster on install than plates.   I am also not fond of bolting a 3 ft leave atop a brick wall .My logic...an appropriately sized plate with appropriate bolts would be stronger and last longer than cored post since,  A proper weld is stronger than the base metal.  In addition to a larger mounting area. Even bolt tensile strength is greater than the base.  All considering a solid mounting surface. Coring allows me to attack multiple surfaces without concern for the surface failure. Under percussion drilling ,  Brick and pavers are notorious for moving or cracking.  Movement allows water infiltration and future brick pop. Ultimately ,  I do not want to turn a 45 minute job into an all day job. Rail layout make a huge difference too in stability.  Don't do 49 straight linear feet atop a red brick wall with blue tapcons and call it good.
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiI think I mentioned it in the other thread but not here... I use one of the 1 or 2 gallon pump sprayers from home depot as a water source when there isn't water available, depending on how many holes their size and depth a 1 gallon is fine for just a few small holes as it doesn't take much water anyways just enough to keep the tip cool and flush out chips
Reply:Aren't wedge and sleeve anchors compressive.  Often times bolt spec.  Strength in Concrete ratings and substrate. Seems like i only repair cored rails.  Cannot recall a failed bolt in a rail in concrete.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickFor sure, I also carry a four-way hose bib key with me, so when I am at commercial sites, libraries, schools, industrial or city buildings I can use their water. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiMost the sites we work at don't have easily accessible water... or power for that matter so I am pretty much setup for anything   I have the standard 4-way square keys in the truck... somewhere  plus 5 or six other keys for some of the oddball spigots... and I always have a small crescent, needle nose and linemans on me Unless you're going to be drilling more than a dozen holes it'll take longer to rig hoses and whatnot compared to running a sprayer anyways... same with power... I like to get on site and go to work!!! and get outta there   I see so many guys from different trades show up and they will be screwing around trying to get power for 20 - 30 minutes even for little jobs where they could have brought cordless tools to accomplish their task if they didn't want to bring a genset...
Reply:A friend in the handrail business went with me to look at the jobsite. Some concern about the brick pavers, but thinks it will be ok if we take our time. I’m anticipating having to replace a paver or two. I’m going to hire one of his guys to help me drill and install these rails. They do commercial jobs every day. That will give me a chance to learn more about it. It will probably be January when I install. BTW, he just ordered that Milwaukee cordless core drill. I think he said almost $3000 - yikes!!Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Once you have installed a rail using cored holes, then you understand. It is vastly more ridgid than base plates. Most pre made base plates I see are usually made out of 10 gauge. Base plates dont even pretend to be ridgid until after quarter inch. If I had to install a rail with base plates I would say 3/8” plates would be a minimum thickness. If you have never cored for rails, or are on the fence about it, just hire out the coring, it is not hugely expensive to build into the cost of the rail. Watch the guys who do the coring and you will see how quick and easy it is. Then you install the rail with the quick set and it is ridgid in minutes. Once that is done you won’t want to go back to base plates for rails ever again.
Reply:I'm kinda surprised milwaukee doesn't already have a cordless chainsaw for block... they have just about everything else but I'm sure it would have to be on their MX stuff there's just too much power used for the chains I see the pro's running... well I guess you could punch through a CMU wall with 4 1 foot cuts on the 12amp fuel batt but even that would be close
Reply:Perhaps if you go out with your friend ,  you could ask him to take you to  or send you to a few previous jobs.  You could inspect how rails wear,  and make plans to improve or personalize your installs.
Reply:I have never used a sprayed, good idea.  I use a 5 gallon bucket and dip the saw in in to the water. I am usually around water.How do y'all pour up the holes?  How do you clean up ?  Do you shape the cement?  Pour flush or below level?. What do you do when you go through brick and there is a nothing underneath/space.Anybody use foam anchoring compound?
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI have never used a sprayed, good idea.  I use a 5 gallon bucket and dip the saw in in to the water. I am usually around water.Sprayed... I'm guessing you mean to my mention of using a homedepot sprayer??? I hook the spraker to the tubing that feeds the water swivel on the core drill... however I do spray the diamond blade of a stihl cutoff saw when cutting concrete/asphalt if I don't have regular pressure water to hook to or the hand saw doesn't have the water kit on it  most of ours do but a couple don't.How do y'all pour up the holes?  Most of the railing I do they want a certain earthquake rated epoxy$$$  so I use that and put a starter course in each hole as it will seep down then give it a few minutes and cap them off.How do you clean up ?  very carefully!!!  I always take a shop vac with me as it prevents a lot of the mess in the first place... but there will always be some - depending on the steps/walk/wall/etc... if you have water rinse it off.. when I do this I still usually have to vac the rinse as it will be heading to asphalt but if you have lawn/landscaping downhill rinse to it... dig a hole if you have to and cover it when done Do you shape the cement?  I usually go a slight bit convex to the pipe.. don't like to leave low spot for dirt/moss/etc.. to settle.Pour flush or below level?. ^^What do you do when you go through brick and there is a nothing underneath/space. I'll put chunks of rock/etc... in to support the bottom of the rail/pipe if there are big gaps shove paper or whatever you got in there to seal it up so the setting compound will stay... spray foam would work f you got the time...Anybody use foam anchoring compound? if you mean like the fence post stuff??? nope... I don't see that working very good(at all)
Reply:How long to you have to work the epoxy?  Surely you core a close fitting hole? What method do you use to get the most use of tip and tubes if caulk style?I have place cups in holes. Or cakes up cement create support.  Seems like cleanup takes lots of time.  I keep vinegar around,  to remove powder in red bricks.  A nasty scenario to hard to avoid.... White painted red brick.  Aka pink tinted brick when you finish...
Reply:The epoxy sets up fairly quick 10 minutes??? especially if you use it warm like they require!!!I forget the number of the epoxy but whitecap carries it... gets expensive as you'll go through quite a few tube on an average install!!!this is where the quickrock and other compounds will be a lot cheaper but..... I have fixed a good number of rail installs that were cored and set with some kind of quickrock... after a few years the filling starts to disintegrate and fills with water... after that it's all downhillHere's one I did a year or so ago that was so bad there was no real patching the cement walls.. at least structurally so I did what we normally do on this kind of rail system... 'saddle' it  we call em' saddles usually the steel plate will wrap around both side of the stub wall and over it for a place to weld the rail on. It is composed of 1/2inch by 6 inch plate the lengths will vary depending on obstructions but normally is 12 inches unless there is too much blowout on the walls then I go 16 inches... or 24 if it needs it. The get anchored with 5/8th anchorlocks at least 2 per side full depth again depends on the wall damage and what will work. Have probably done about 20 of these repairs per year... of course they are almost all in warehouse environments so nobody complains about the looks  the good thing is when they back a truck into the railing next time it's easier to fix because the saddles do not move!!! so I just zip the railing off and glue down some moreThe saddle pieces get fully welded at the 90degree joints in fact I weld the underside with a couple fillet passes too and it doesn't interfere with the concrete wall as they have a 3/4inch chamfer on them.After the saddles are bolted in and the railing is welded down I'll patch the concrete wall back.Oh...on this particular rail wall the saddles were only 2 piece a top and one side as the wall did not extend above the walkway... 95 percent of them do and I'll have at least a 6 inch piece running down the inner wall to put a couple anchors into... but then again the plate is thick enough it doesn't move anyways And whoever set the handrail on the building messed it up  Last edited by ronsii; 12-10-2020 at 11:59 PM.
Reply:I used to use a product called rockite.  I worked well.  However it is only plaster of Paris and portland cement.  It needed to be covered or painted .  it would wear due to rain.  It was non corrosive.I use Rapidset now.  It has sand in it.  Not sure how it holds up.  No noticeable wear.  I do form a dome when I pour.Epoxy or acrylic might be the way to go. However,  I end up with a lot of waste or have much left over.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI have never used a sprayed, good idea.  I use a 5 gallon bucket and dip the saw in in to the water. I am usually around water.How do y'all pour up the holes?  How do you clean up ?  Do you shape the cement?  Pour flush or below level?. What do you do when you go through brick and there is a nothing underneath/space.Anybody use foam anchoring compound?
Reply:Yeah, when I first started core removal could be a pain... so I tried a few time sds'ing a 1/8 hole first... worked great but was adding to the time the job would take as I would usually drill at least 8 inches in or less if the walk was thinner  then I found the shopvac worked better at core removal than most other methods so that's my SOP now
Reply:I use sds with a chisel bit.  It is handy for shaping the bottom of the hole too, if core doesn't come out even.William McCormick, What did you use to fill those holes? They are close fitting.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickI did these about 15 years ago, but you can see if there is a pattern in the stoop you might want to create the rail to match the pattern. I also saw some tools in the picture that you should have for removing the core or smashing it apart inside the core. A cold chisel for sure and a lump hammer. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI use sds with a chisel bit.  It is handy for shaping the bottom of the hole too, if core doesn't come out even.William McCormick, What did you use to fill those holes? They are close fitting.
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiMost the sites we work at don't have easily accessible water... or power for that matter so I am pretty much setup for anything   I have the standard 4-way square keys in the truck... somewhere  plus 5 or six other keys for some of the oddball spigots... and I always have a small crescent, needle nose and linemans on me Unless you're going to be drilling more than a dozen holes it'll take longer to rig hoses and whatnot compared to running a sprayer anyways... same with power... I like to get on site and go to work!!! and get outta there   I see so many guys from different trades show up and they will be screwing around trying to get power for 20 - 30 minutes even for little jobs where they could have brought cordless tools to accomplish their task if they didn't want to bring a genset...
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickA lot of my jobs were stainless steel rails on fancy buildings like public libraries, malls, and schools so I had to wash the sidewalks down well when I was done, I had to find the water and get it hooked up. Sincerely, William McCormick