Wiring for lincoln Mig Pak 180

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I just bought a Lincoln Mig Pak 180. The recomended input cable and fuse breaker sizes are as follows:Input voltage/frequency = 230 V   60 HZFuse or breaker size    = 40 Amp Super lagInput amps                     = 20Power cord                    = 50 Amp, 250 V, three prong plug, (NEMA Type 6-50P)My questions are: What size of wire do I need from my service panel wich is at about 45 feet from where I will install my welder's outlet ?  What does 6-50P means in (NEMA Type 6-50P) ?How much wattage is the machine pulling ?As I understand I need a cable about 8 gauge with 3 wires. 1 black, 1 white, 1 bare ground (8-2) The machine will be installed in an attached garage and used for hobby.Thanks for your time.Claude from Canada.
Reply:The 8-2 cable you chose would be correct for a US application for a 120v circuit.Black—hotWhite---neutralBare-----groundIn Canada for 230 volts.You have two Hot lines and a Ground, no Neutral.L1 ------BlackL2-------RedGround---Green or Green Yellow.The  40 amp breaker may be a little over kill but that’s ok. Be sure that the breaker is for 230 volts, two pole.Not knowing the length of the cable run it is difficult to say if the gauge is correct.Below are some links that will help answer your questions.http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.htmlhttp://www.stayonline.com/reference-...ght-blade.aspxhttp://images.google.com/images?clie...ed=0CCsQsAQwAwLast edited by transit; 12-09-2009 at 12:33 PM.
Reply:I have Power MIG 180. Sitting on 35A bkr. Never got to max amps. My cable 50ft 10ga. Rubber coat, 3 rubber covered wires. I do not think bare wire would be a good idea. Since bare wire is solid and cable is not flexible enough... So if you go for 8ga - even better - more gages never hurts...Total power - look in manual there is something like 18V x 180A, so let say around 4kW...Oh yes, about 6-50P - 50 means amps, P-plug, 6- NEMA configrurations. Like 2-prong - numbers 1,2, 3-prong - 5,6... I do not reason for those configuration numbers, but some NEC/NEMA people around here...Good luck. Here from Toronto.P.S.And about attached garage - if it is heated. Say I have attached but use for my car too - tools are rusting.. So would never keep any of my machines in garage... Make sure you do not have any condensation around...Last edited by Nomand; 12-09-2009 at 12:44 PM.
Reply:Sorry, I missed the 45-foot distance. The power supply draws 20 Amps at 230 volts, or 4,600 Volt-Amperes. If you protect the circuit with a 30 or 35-amp breaker, the online calculators come up with # 12-gauge wire.I would use # 10-2 for better performance.
Reply:Hey Claude,In the US the NEC makes allowances for non-continuous duty equipment such as welders. Using the derating factors on can reduce wiring sizes (if you wish) as long as that circuit is specifically dedicated to the type of equipment it was installed for. So here a sweet circuit dedicated to small to medium wleders would be a 30 amp breaker and 10/2 wire just as you described. Black=hot, white=hot, and a bare ground NMC, 230 volt. However------------those same allowances may not apply in Canada. You'd really should consult with only those familiar with Canadian regs so you can be up to code or at least 'code like'.Last edited by Sandy; 12-09-2009 at 09:34 PM.
Reply:No sandy, the White wire may not be used as the second leg of a 230 volt circuit, US or Canadian code.
Reply:

Originally Posted by transit

No sandy, the White wire may not be used as the second leg of a 230 volt circuit, US or Canadian code.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Sandy

I should qualify by adding that white may be used only if it is recolored and only in 230 volt circuits not requiring a neutral.


Reply:Sandy, re-read links in post # 2 for the Canadian color codes. Ground = Green or Green+yellow.
Reply:

Originally Posted by transit

Sandy, re-read links in post # 2 for the Canadian color codes. Ground = Green or Green+yellow.
Reply:

Originally Posted by bigb

And I'd like to add that the exception for re-identifying a white conductor as a hot only applies to cables. Conductors in conduit may not be re-identified. (US)Also, that's not really my car.
Reply:Just a side note as to what might be done with the white wire here is the US, not Canada. ""In type NM cable, conductor insulation is color-coded for identification, typically one black, one white, and a bare grounding conductor. The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that the black conductor represent the hot conductor, with significant voltage to earth ground; the white conductor represent the identified or neutral conductor, near ground potential [9]; and the bare/green conductor, the safety grounding conductor not normally used to carry circuit current. Wires may be re-coloured, so these rules are commonly excepted.[10] In 240-volt applications not requiring a neutral conductor, the white wire may be used as the second hot conductor, but must be recolored with tape or by some other method.[citation needed] Four-wire flexible equipment connection cords have red as the fourth color; unlike European practices, color-coding in flexible cords is the same as for fixed wiring.[citation needed]""http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...(United_States)""Exception: Conductor identification shall be permitted in accordance with 200.7.Ungrounded conductors with white or gray insulation are permitted if the conductors are permanently reidentified at termination points and if the conductor is visible and accessible. The normal methods of reidentification include colored tape, tagging, or paint.""From another forum. Now back to the thread about wiring in Canada.


Reply:It seems, guys, you are going crazy about those colours... Especially in view of the fact - his cable, the same gauge wires, two hots... From both sides his wiring. As long as he does not betray his principals and follow the same colour scheme in US or Canada - he is OK... And again, avoid 10/2... In Home Depot available 10/3 without bare wire all good rubber...
Reply:[QUOTE=Nomand;339558]It seems, guys, you are going crazy about those colours...QUOTE]


Reply:[quote=Sandy;339572]

Originally Posted by Nomand

It seems, guys, you are going crazy about those colours...QUOTE]


Reply:

Originally Posted by transit

The 8-2 cable you chose would be correct for a US application for a 120v circuit.Black—hotWhite---neutralBare-----groundIn Canada for 230 volts.You have two Hot lines and a Ground, no Neutral.L1 ------BlackL2-------RedGround---Green or Green Yellow.The  40 amp breaker may be a little over kill but that’s ok. Be sure that the breaker is for 230 volts, two pole.Not knowing the length of the cable run it is difficult to say if the gauge is correct.Below are some links that will help answer your questions.http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.htmlhttp://www.stayonline.com/reference-...ght-blade.aspxhttp://images.google.com/images?clie...ed=0CCsQsAQwAw
Reply:I have a 180 as well and I ran 3 wire to box. I have tried black L1 red L2 and did not use white,I hooked up the G. But the welder does not turn on. So what do I need to do? Here is what happened when I tested for V.BLK to RD no VBLK to WHT 120 VRD to WHT 120 VI don't know what to do with the Wht? It seems to me you have to use Wht to complete the Cir.
Reply:Both of your 120 volt legs are actually the same 120 volt leg at the breaker box. My guess you've used the wrong breaker style or it is shifted from where it needs to connect. You need 240 volts across the two."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:First post.  Hi...Just painted the inside walls on the new 20X32 garage/workshop.  I had told the electrician I was buying a 180 and it needed 220 - 20 amps.  So I now have 2 new outlets wired with 12/2 red wire and a 220/20 amp breaker.A few days ago I bought the 180 welder.  Read the specs.  Joined this forum.  Now I'm SOL with my new wiring?Can I make a pigtail cord and just make this work?Or are:The 2 small 2 outlet boxes with a 220/20 receptacles wrong.  (not 6-50)The wire size (12/2) is wrong.The breaker is wrong.Should I just install a new 6-50 outlet beside the electrical panel and wire it to a new 220/40 super lag breaker and buy a 25 Ft extension cord?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Rick Hubka

First post.  Hi...Just painted the inside walls on the new 20X32 garage/workshop.  I had told the electrician I was buying a 180 and it needed 220 - 20 amps.  So I now have 2 new outlets wired with 12/2 red wire and a 220/20 amp breaker.A few days ago I bought the 180 welder.  Read the specs.  Joined this forum.  Now I'm SOL with my new wiring?Can I make a pigtail cord and just make this work?Or are:The 2 small 2 outlet boxes with a 220/20 receptacles wrong.  (not 6-50)The wire size (12/2) is wrong.The breaker is wrong.Should I just install a new 6-50 outlet beside the electrical panel and wire it to a new 220/40 super lag breaker and buy a 25 Ft extension cord?
Reply:Thanks for the advice Ed.Ok.  I'll use the existing 20 amp outlets with 6-50r and see how that plays itself out.Hopefully the hydro hookup happens next week and I get to play!
Reply:hey guys im a newbie here to this site.. but i have a few issues.. just bought a lincoln 180 mig pac.. have it wired like this..10 wire breaker is a double 40 amp federal in canada..black is to large pin on 6 50rred is to other pin on the 6 50rand white is to the ground half round pin..both red and black are both wired to the double 40 breaker to feed it the required 110 each side.. and the white is grounded..so now i tried to turn it on and no juice what so ever..????!!! i then tried to pu the white wire to the nuetral bar but still no go??!!so i then re wired the whole gambit and just used the one side of the 40 double breaker and hooked it up just like a regular 110 black to the 40 breaker only one side used now..red to neutral bar and white to ground.. and it works but dont have enough juice running through it makes a pretty crappy bead and just piles it up not enough heat to melt it.. so...??? does any one have any ideas as to what the hell is going on here is there a problem that im not seeing? ive gone over this alot and ive hooked it up the same way everyone else is saying to with the double breaker and no neutral but it isnt working? help!! haha
Reply:You need to meter the receptacle to confirm you have 240v there.Most likely the breaker it self is not installed correctly and is not getting the 240v from the panel to pass along to the receptacle.It can happen.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:If you are using the Federal 1" breaker you need to stradle one of the little plastic dividers on the bus so that each half of the breaker is in a different square or you will not see 240 volts.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:Old thread but. I’m reading that some are saying use a #10 wire with 40amp breaker. The wire is only rated for 30 amp making it the weaker link like a fuse.

Originally Posted by Mikecsi

Old thread but. I’m reading that some are saying use a #10 wire with 40amp breaker. The wire is only rated for 30 amp making it the weaker link like a fuse.
Reply:The wiring instructions in the manual are really written for someone familar with nema and code and are terrible for the diy gang.  As was mentioned specific dedicated equipment circuits hard wiored are often over breakered in that traditiona or familar sense but the only recept allowed to use a different wire is the welder.  That welder is really  a 30A service machine, they actually now make a pos 50 outlet really made for those new machine where the current may be limited to 30.        The wire is only rated for 30 amp making it the weaker link like a fuse.