Building a shop - the dos and don’ts; successes and regrets

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Hello! Im a 25 year old journeyman welder from Alberta Canada. I’m nearing the end of the planning stage of building my shop at home, but will continue to put my feelers out there for any and all information on how to really make this shop the best version of itself the first time around! (Preferably the only time around, done properly- hence this post lol)I’m looking for any information you guys can give me on things I may need to consider when building a workshop, any experiences you’ve had personally or suggestions or ideas you think might be relevant! I’m ever so thankful for any suggestions and tips I can get!

For instance.. If you have a shop of your own, what would you change about it/do over if you could rebuild?Any major things to stay away from?What are some things that have worked well for you that you’d recommend? Any setups or handy discoveries you’ve made along the way? You get the picture!Thanks in advance!!!


Reply:If I could build my shop over the main things I would do is not make it square(32' x 32') and I would put radiant heat in the floor.
Reply:

Originally Posted by vwguy3

If I could build my shop over the main things I would do is not make it square(32' x 32') and I would put radiant heat in the floor.
Reply:I have an insulated wood shop with radiant heat and an uninsulated open sided welding and auto repair barn.  M 2 cents....Insulate the shop and insulate it well.  My walls are about R80 and my ceiling is R100 and it’s great to work in.Radiant heat is fantastic!Plan for at least a shop sink; if you can swing it a shop bathroom with a urinal is also nice.  A shower is not needed though.A kitchen area with a fridge and a microwave is nice.Put the loud things (air compressor, generator for 3 phase power, etc) in a separate room.High ceilings are nice for clearance and cooling.Pick an area where your load centers will be located. Run large conduits from the load center area, under the floor, bringing them up on each wall.  This will allow you to easily pull wiring in the future.Have a smaller room that you keep heated for paint and other supplies that go bad if they get frozen.  Keep a dehumidifier running in this room and store your MIG wire in it too.Add oversize exhaust fans that you can turn on to quickly evacuate the welding smoke from the shop.  If you have radiant heat, it will recover quickly after you shut the fans off (as long as you don’t run them for an extended time).Use a high capacity load center that will allow for future expansion.Make it large enough.  My woodshop is 5,300 square feet and if I had to build it again I’d make it even larger.Bury conduits from the house to the shop to allow for easy pulling Ethernet, power, security camera wiring, etc.Know which direction the prevailing wind comes from and orientate your shop so that the doors are not in the prevailing wind.Miller Trailblazer Pro 350DMiller Suitcase MIGMiller Spectrum 2050Miller Syncrowave 250DXLincoln 210MP
Reply:You will likely make changes or additions down the line but mistakes that are permanent are the worst. Decide if you want smooth concrete that clean's well or textured for skid resistance then discuss it with contractor in advance.  If you opt for skid resistant finish,don't let the crew skip smooth troweling because floor will chalk for ever.  Trowel as usual then broom or otherwise texture. It's called "bringing the butter to surface".  If you have floor drains,install catch basins where metal shavings, sand and other heavy material land's  before going into lines. A couple of D-rings poured into floor like body shops use pulling frames for straightening are not only good for ancoring but also handy for moving heavy objects around with come-a-long and snatch blocks.
Reply:125 amp welding circuits on 4 gauge.Unless you need more.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:go BIGGER..you will fill it and run out of room, so make it as big as you can afford, the extra room will never goto waste..
Reply:



Here are a few ideas...200A panel too...
Reply:I really appreciate these replies so far, all of this is helpful. Thank you



Suggestions lead me to more researching which leads me back here with more questions.. (that is a promise lol, bear with me



) which brings me closer to covering all the bases (there are more than 4 in this ballpark!) that I can before anything is set in stone!
Reply:You didn't mention wall height. I say 12' walls is the minimum and definitely a overhead 1 ton electric hoist on trolley. A swinging jib hoist is another asset. You are young and strong, but overhead lifting and moving gets old and can be unsafe. Mechanical lifting makes life so much easier. Great for loading and unloading on low trailers why the 12' wall height is the minimum. Depending on your type of work the overhead hoist maybe used for stocking steel storage rack. Locating the steel rack where most of your cutting is done will save time . Getting organized from the start is important. Steel and material storage with racks and shelving so you can see what you have is a plus. Tossing stuff in buckets, drums, boxes, milk crates, will work but not the best. I'm sure we all fit in this one way or another. Cylinder storage near door ''IF'' you will be using a lot of tanks is handy . Delivery driver won't have to walk far. A engine hoist is handy and pipe stands are a must. Air compressor can be noisy so might be good to locate away from work area.Whatever the size maybe I stick 100% to what I stated. Even a basic chainfall will work .
Reply:

Originally Posted by scsmith42

I have an insulated wood shop with radiant heat and an uninsulated open sided welding and auto repair barn.  M 2 cents....Insulate the shop and insulate it well.  My walls are about R80 and my ceiling is R100 and it’s great to work in.Radiant heat is fantastic!Plan for at least a shop sink; if you can swing it a shop bathroom with a urinal is also nice.  A shower is not needed though.A kitchen area with a fridge and a microwave is nice.Put the loud things (air compressor, generator for 3 phase power, etc) in a separate room.High ceilings are nice for clearance and cooling.Pick an area where your load centers will be located. Run large conduits from the load center area, under the floor, bringing them up on each wall.  This will allow you to easily pull wiring in the future.Have a smaller room that you keep heated for paint and other supplies that go bad if they get frozen.  Keep a dehumidifier running in this room and store your MIG wire in it too.Add oversize exhaust fans that you can turn on to quickly evacuate the welding smoke from the shop.  If you have radiant heat, it will recover quickly after you shut the fans off (as long as you don’t run them for an extended time).Use a high capacity load center that will allow for future expansion.Make it large enough.  My woodshop is 5,300 square feet and if I had to build it again I’d make it even larger.Bury conduits from the house to the shop to allow for easy pulling Ethernet, power, security camera wiring, etc.Know which direction the prevailing wind comes from and orientate your shop so that the doors are not in the prevailing wind.
Reply:You haven't told us what you wish to do in your shop.  Without some knowledge of the tasks involved our help is somewhat limited.The thing that is hardest to redo is the floor.  Make sure you get it right.  Any discussion of concrete must include the subgrade.  I have no idea what details are necessary based on your soil types and weather, so search out local contractors with a track record.I agree with burying electrical conduit under the floor.  It sucks to have to run heavy power to a subpanel over an overhead door.  My conduits were trenched into the subgrade and backfilled with sand before laying bar.Make your building wider rather than longer.  You can easily add to the length of the building, adding width is very difficult (read expensive).If you consider doing heavy repair, put pull pots in the floor in an easily accessible location.  They will be a pita when you aren't using them.You are young.  Don't try to build the Taj Mahal you want with a note from the bank.  Chances are good you may move for a better job.  Make a usable building that can be added to later.
Reply:All of the above suggestions are good but some might not apply to you location.For example radiant floor heating would be a total waste of money in my part of Texas!

All that I would add is whatever you think is enough, double it! Seriously!Square footage, number of outlets, compressor capacity, lighting, electrical service amps, double everything.It's a lot cheaper and easier to do it in the beginning than to add it later.
Reply:^^ X100 on what he said  


Reply:You're in Alberta so I'll 2nd what's been said about in floor heating and lots of insulation. Love my in floor heat. Add a few windows as well... the sunlight makes a big difference but you'll still want lots and lots of light for working at night. I went with a combination of LED's and fluorescents because of cost, and I put a light on the wall in each corner to avoid shadows while working on the sides of vehicles or under hoods. I covered the building inside and out with white metal (reflects light to make it brighter and repels flying sparks for fire prevention. ) since it's low maintenance and lasts. I put one tie down in the floor and I should have had at least 2 (preferably 4 in a pattern that would fit under your car or typical project). Making covers that fit into the concrete would be a good plan since they are a pain when you aren't using them, which is most of the time. Exhaust fan is essential if u are welding... any painting requires an explosion proof fan and a booth area... totally new ball game. Skid proof floor is nice to work on, but a bear to sweep. Decide if you will be working with melting snow or things you have to keep clean more.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Tall wallsGood cross beams every 6' to 8' for weight carrying (lifting)In floor heat with either radiant or forced air backupMore outlets ... how many?  ... just more.Several locations of 240vac for plugging your welders anywhere, anytime.Face a long wall south and put in plenty of windows for winter heat and lightPut windows that open across from each other and in walls that are perpendicular to the prevailing breezesstaggered stud, double thickness walls for long term money savings on heat and cooling
Reply:If I had to build mine over, I would go one size bigger. I would also put in pull pots.
Reply:I’ve been taking notes guys, and researching anything I’m not totally familiar with let me thank you again: thank you

I’m seeing some general themes here (don’t limit yourself is size is the main one!) and also some ideas I never would have thought of until it was too late so this is really great

I’m sitting here, looking at my initial plans, thinking oh my goodness well THAT is gonna have to change..haha. This is good



Reply:High on my list of priorities would be a design that allows efficient handling and storage of 24' sticks of metal, ideally an overhead crane that could unload them off a trailer, move them to the storage rack and then to a cutting station and on to the fabrication area.  It can also be done with a forklift or an A frame hoist but a forklift requires more room to maneuver.  Having to cut steel shorter to handle or store waste time and creates more waisted cut off pieces.
Reply:You still haven't told us how big your shop is going to be, or what you plan on doing in it. That makes a big difference to what we would shoehorn into it.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I would add an external wood stove. It keeps the price down on fuel for the in floor heating. I custom built my own and it works great, but I burn pine in a very specialty built for pine only stove. It doesn't do jack 30 mins after you leave though.Insulation... Make your purlins 12" in ceiling and 8" + in walls so you can always add more insulation down the road.I have a 42 x 60 shop with a quad outlet every 12 feet, 2 quads per breaker. I would change the panel out so each quad was on its own breaker.Ceiling fansWhen I bought my place, it had 6 clear panels in the roof, now I have 6 clear panels in the top 2 feet of the 12'walls. I have them framed out to hold insulation in the winter. Great for light in the warm months. By keeping them at the top, they are easy to change to metal or replace.I personally don't like to run too much future conduit in the floor as things always change, but to each room is great. Just make sure it's big enough.Build it like you are ready to add on. Preplan your next add on now to make things easier for you later. That includes doors, electric, machines, stock, parking.Ceiling height determines a lot. A 10'hoist needs a trolley and chain fall and the slings or rigging. How high does that make your highest reach.Also, do your layout so your not spending a ton on the large electrical wiring.Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Reply:One thing I'm so glad I did was to run conduit to where the table would be and I have the welding cables and electrical run through them to under the welding table. The table is always grounded and has two, 4 plug cans on each end. My feeder unit hangs on a boom as well so doesn't take up floor space either.
Reply:You can never build it too big. Lots of light and electric where you need it. Hoist or tractor with loader. Doesn't take long to fill up a shop with stuff, post pics as you go....
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

You still haven't told us how big your shop is going to be, or what you plan on doing in it. That makes a big difference to what we would shoehorn into it.
Reply:I have not built a shop per say but have built a shed 9' x 13' which is a two story just under 120 Sq Ft and under 14' or 15' tall.  I know peanuts compared to a shop.  Any way as long as I did not go over 120 Sq Ft or over 14' or 15' tall, I would not have to purchase a build permit and go through all the building inspections.

The one thing I would do different is the foundation.  I would actually pour a level concrete foundation vs. building it up on Footers like I did.  Make it easy to get heavy things in and out of the building.  One or more of the footings is sinking which I will have to address soon to bring the shed back to level.  My thinking was if I ever move I could take it with a lot easier if it is on concrete footers.Last edited by N2 Welding; 10-15-2018 at 01:13 PM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo.  Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.Hello! Im a 25 year old journeyman welder from Alberta Canada. I’m nearing the end of the planning stage of building my shop at home, but will continue to put my feelers out there for any and all information on how to really make this shop the best version of itself the first time around! (Preferably the only time around, done properly- hence this post lol)I’m looking for any information you guys can give me on things I may need to consider when building a workshop, any experiences you’ve had personally or suggestions or ideas you think might be relevant! I’m ever so thankful for any suggestions and tips I can get!

For instance.. If you have a shop of your own, what would you change about it/do over if you could rebuild?Any major things to stay away from?What are some things that have worked well for you that you’d recommend? Any setups or handy discoveries you’ve made along the way? You get the picture!Thanks in advance!!!


Reply:If I could build my shop over the main things I would do is not make it square(32' x 32') and I would put radiant heat in the floor.
Reply:

Originally Posted by vwguy3

If I could build my shop over the main things I would do is not make it square(32' x 32') and I would put radiant heat in the floor.
Reply:I have an insulated wood shop with radiant heat and an uninsulated open sided welding and auto repair barn.  M 2 cents....Insulate the shop and insulate it well.  My walls are about R80 and my ceiling is R100 and it’s great to work in.Radiant heat is fantastic!Plan for at least a shop sink; if you can swing it a shop bathroom with a urinal is also nice.  A shower is not needed though.A kitchen area with a fridge and a microwave is nice.Put the loud things (air compressor, generator for 3 phase power, etc) in a separate room.High ceilings are nice for clearance and cooling.Pick an area where your load centers will be located. Run large conduits from the load center area, under the floor, bringing them up on each wall.  This will allow you to easily pull wiring in the future.Have a smaller room that you keep heated for paint and other supplies that go bad if they get frozen.  Keep a dehumidifier running in this room and store your MIG wire in it too.Add oversize exhaust fans that you can turn on to quickly evacuate the welding smoke from the shop.  If you have radiant heat, it will recover quickly after you shut the fans off (as long as you don’t run them for an extended time).Use a high capacity load center that will allow for future expansion.Make it large enough.  My woodshop is 5,300 square feet and if I had to build it again I’d make it even larger.Bury conduits from the house to the shop to allow for easy pulling Ethernet, power, security camera wiring, etc.Know which direction the prevailing wind comes from and orientate your shop so that the doors are not in the prevailing wind.Miller Trailblazer Pro 350DMiller Suitcase MIGMiller Spectrum 2050Miller Syncrowave 250DXLincoln 210MP
Reply:You will likely make changes or additions down the line but mistakes that are permanent are the worst. Decide if you want smooth concrete that clean's well or textured for skid resistance then discuss it with contractor in advance.  If you opt for skid resistant finish,don't let the crew skip smooth troweling because floor will chalk for ever.  Trowel as usual then broom or otherwise texture. It's called "bringing the butter to surface".  If you have floor drains,install catch basins where metal shavings, sand and other heavy material land's  before going into lines. A couple of D-rings poured into floor like body shops use pulling frames for straightening are not only good for ancoring but also handy for moving heavy objects around with come-a-long and snatch blocks.
Reply:125 amp welding circuits on 4 gauge.Unless you need more.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:go BIGGER..you will fill it and run out of room, so make it as big as you can afford, the extra room will never goto waste..
Reply:



Here are a few ideas...200A panel too...
Reply:I really appreciate these replies so far, all of this is helpful. Thank you



Suggestions lead me to more researching which leads me back here with more questions.. (that is a promise lol, bear with me



) which brings me closer to covering all the bases (there are more than 4 in this ballpark!) that I can before anything is set in stone!
Reply:You didn't mention wall height. I say 12' walls is the minimum and definitely a overhead 1 ton electric hoist on trolley. A swinging jib hoist is another asset. You are young and strong, but overhead lifting and moving gets old and can be unsafe. Mechanical lifting makes life so much easier. Great for loading and unloading on low trailers why the 12' wall height is the minimum. Depending on your type of work the overhead hoist maybe used for stocking steel storage rack. Locating the steel rack where most of your cutting is done will save time . Getting organized from the start is important. Steel and material storage with racks and shelving so you can see what you have is a plus. Tossing stuff in buckets, drums, boxes, milk crates, will work but not the best. I'm sure we all fit in this one way or another. Cylinder storage near door ''IF'' you will be using a lot of tanks is handy . Delivery driver won't have to walk far. A engine hoist is handy and pipe stands are a must. Air compressor can be noisy so might be good to locate away from work area.Whatever the size maybe I stick 100% to what I stated. Even a basic chainfall will work .
Reply:

Originally Posted by scsmith42

I have an insulated wood shop with radiant heat and an uninsulated open sided welding and auto repair barn.  M 2 cents....Insulate the shop and insulate it well.  My walls are about R80 and my ceiling is R100 and it’s great to work in.Radiant heat is fantastic!Plan for at least a shop sink; if you can swing it a shop bathroom with a urinal is also nice.  A shower is not needed though.A kitchen area with a fridge and a microwave is nice.Put the loud things (air compressor, generator for 3 phase power, etc) in a separate room.High ceilings are nice for clearance and cooling.Pick an area where your load centers will be located. Run large conduits from the load center area, under the floor, bringing them up on each wall.  This will allow you to easily pull wiring in the future.Have a smaller room that you keep heated for paint and other supplies that go bad if they get frozen.  Keep a dehumidifier running in this room and store your MIG wire in it too.Add oversize exhaust fans that you can turn on to quickly evacuate the welding smoke from the shop.  If you have radiant heat, it will recover quickly after you shut the fans off (as long as you don’t run them for an extended time).Use a high capacity load center that will allow for future expansion.Make it large enough.  My woodshop is 5,300 square feet and if I had to build it again I’d make it even larger.Bury conduits from the house to the shop to allow for easy pulling Ethernet, power, security camera wiring, etc.Know which direction the prevailing wind comes from and orientate your shop so that the doors are not in the prevailing wind.
Reply:You haven't told us what you wish to do in your shop.  Without some knowledge of the tasks involved our help is somewhat limited.The thing that is hardest to redo is the floor.  Make sure you get it right.  Any discussion of concrete must include the subgrade.  I have no idea what details are necessary based on your soil types and weather, so search out local contractors with a track record.I agree with burying electrical conduit under the floor.  It sucks to have to run heavy power to a subpanel over an overhead door.  My conduits were trenched into the subgrade and backfilled with sand before laying bar.Make your building wider rather than longer.  You can easily add to the length of the building, adding width is very difficult (read expensive).If you consider doing heavy repair, put pull pots in the floor in an easily accessible location.  They will be a pita when you aren't using them.You are young.  Don't try to build the Taj Mahal you want with a note from the bank.  Chances are good you may move for a better job.  Make a usable building that can be added to later.
Reply:All of the above suggestions are good but some might not apply to you location.For example radiant floor heating would be a total waste of money in my part of Texas!

All that I would add is whatever you think is enough, double it! Seriously!Square footage, number of outlets, compressor capacity, lighting, electrical service amps, double everything.It's a lot cheaper and easier to do it in the beginning than to add it later.
Reply:^^ X100 on what he said  


Reply:You're in Alberta so I'll 2nd what's been said about in floor heating and lots of insulation. Love my in floor heat. Add a few windows as well... the sunlight makes a big difference but you'll still want lots and lots of light for working at night. I went with a combination of LED's and fluorescents because of cost, and I put a light on the wall in each corner to avoid shadows while working on the sides of vehicles or under hoods. I covered the building inside and out with white metal (reflects light to make it brighter and repels flying sparks for fire prevention. ) since it's low maintenance and lasts. I put one tie down in the floor and I should have had at least 2 (preferably 4 in a pattern that would fit under your car or typical project). Making covers that fit into the concrete would be a good plan since they are a pain when you aren't using them, which is most of the time. Exhaust fan is essential if u are welding... any painting requires an explosion proof fan and a booth area... totally new ball game. Skid proof floor is nice to work on, but a bear to sweep. Decide if you will be working with melting snow or things you have to keep clean more.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Tall wallsGood cross beams every 6' to 8' for weight carrying (lifting)In floor heat with either radiant or forced air backupMore outlets ... how many?  ... just more.Several locations of 240vac for plugging your welders anywhere, anytime.Face a long wall south and put in plenty of windows for winter heat and lightPut windows that open across from each other and in walls that are perpendicular to the prevailing breezesstaggered stud, double thickness walls for long term money savings on heat and cooling
Reply:If I had to build mine over, I would go one size bigger. I would also put in pull pots.
Reply:I’ve been taking notes guys, and researching anything I’m not totally familiar with let me thank you again: thank you

I’m seeing some general themes here (don’t limit yourself is size is the main one!) and also some ideas I never would have thought of until it was too late so this is really great

I’m sitting here, looking at my initial plans, thinking oh my goodness well THAT is gonna have to change..haha. This is good



Reply:High on my list of priorities would be a design that allows efficient handling and storage of 24' sticks of metal, ideally an overhead crane that could unload them off a trailer, move them to the storage rack and then to a cutting station and on to the fabrication area.  It can also be done with a forklift or an A frame hoist but a forklift requires more room to maneuver.  Having to cut steel shorter to handle or store waste time and creates more waisted cut off pieces.
Reply:You still haven't told us how big your shop is going to be, or what you plan on doing in it. That makes a big difference to what we would shoehorn into it.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I would add an external wood stove. It keeps the price down on fuel for the in floor heating. I custom built my own and it works great, but I burn pine in a very specialty built for pine only stove. It doesn't do jack 30 mins after you leave though.Insulation... Make your purlins 12" in ceiling and 8" + in walls so you can always add more insulation down the road.I have a 42 x 60 shop with a quad outlet every 12 feet, 2 quads per breaker. I would change the panel out so each quad was on its own breaker.Ceiling fansWhen I bought my place, it had 6 clear panels in the roof, now I have 6 clear panels in the top 2 feet of the 12'walls. I have them framed out to hold insulation in the winter. Great for light in the warm months. By keeping them at the top, they are easy to change to metal or replace.I personally don't like to run too much future conduit in the floor as things always change, but to each room is great. Just make sure it's big enough.Build it like you are ready to add on. Preplan your next add on now to make things easier for you later. That includes doors, electric, machines, stock, parking.Ceiling height determines a lot. A 10'hoist needs a trolley and chain fall and the slings or rigging. How high does that make your highest reach.Also, do your layout so your not spending a ton on the large electrical wiring.Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Reply:One thing I'm so glad I did was to run conduit to where the table would be and I have the welding cables and electrical run through them to under the welding table. The table is always grounded and has two, 4 plug cans on each end. My feeder unit hangs on a boom as well so doesn't take up floor space either.
Reply:You can never build it too big. Lots of light and electric where you need it. Hoist or tractor with loader. Doesn't take long to fill up a shop with stuff, post pics as you go....
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

You still haven't told us how big your shop is going to be, or what you plan on doing in it. That makes a big difference to what we would shoehorn into it.
Reply:I have not built a shop per say but have built a shed 9' x 13' which is a two story just under 120 Sq Ft and under 14' or 15' tall.  I know peanuts compared to a shop.  Any way as long as I did not go over 120 Sq Ft or over 14' or 15' tall, I would not have to purchase a build permit and go through all the building inspections.

The one thing I would do different is the foundation.  I would actually pour a level concrete foundation vs. building it up on Footers like I did.  Make it easy to get heavy things in and out of the building.  One or more of the footings is sinking which I will have to address soon to bring the shed back to level.  My thinking was if I ever move I could take it with a lot easier if it is on concrete footers.Last edited by N2 Welding; 10-15-2018 at 01:13 PM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo.  Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.