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Hi first postWeldpak 100Been a great welder for small jobs for over 15 years not a spot of botherWas welding last week and when pulling the trigger there was a buzzing and it blew the main 110 breaker after about 10 secondsNo wire feedChecked the feed motor and was fine on 12v Bypassed the gun and jumped the connectors to the trigger on the machine above the feed motor- same - blew the breakerNo smoke or signs of shortsFan runs Gas solenoid operatesElectronic shop changed the relay on the circuit board - still the same - no signs of shorts, smoke or burning on the boardChecked voltage on the gun - 1.5VCould this be a transformer winding issue?Have wiring diagram, but it is a clears as mud, as there is no schematic of the circuit board Was working perfectly. then just gave upThanksMike
Reply:That is a problem with 120 volt 20 amp welders. Some will wildcat a 30 amp plug to fix the problem. Dave
Originally Posted by Britrest
Hi first postWeldpak 100Been a great welder for small jobs for over 15 years not a spot of botherWas welding last week and when pulling the trigger there was a buzzing and it blew the main 110 breaker after about 10 secondsNo wire feedChecked the feed motor and was fine on 12v Bypassed the gun and jumped the connectors to the trigger on the machine above the feed motor- same - blew the breakerNo smoke or signs of shortsFan runs Gas solenoid operatesElectronic shop changed the relay on the circuit board - still the same - no signs of shorts, smoke or burning on the boardChecked voltage on the gun - 1.5VCould this be a transformer winding issue?Have wiring diagram, but it is a clears as mud, as there is no schematic of the circuit board Was working perfectly. then just gave upThanksMike
Reply:FYI You can try using E71T-11 or GS 0.030" or E70S-3 or 6 0.023".This will help a little. If decided to wildcat most 4 wire dryer plugs are 30 amp just use one side and the other side to white wire check withe volt meter just case some wire the dryer plug wrong.Dave
Originally Posted by Britrest
Hi first postWeldpak 100Been a great welder for small jobs for over 15 years not a spot of botherWas welding last week and when pulling the trigger there was a buzzing and it blew the main 110 breaker after about 10 secondsNo wire feedChecked the feed motor and was fine on 12v Bypassed the gun and jumped the connectors to the trigger on the machine above the feed motor- same - blew the breakerNo smoke or signs of shortsFan runs Gas solenoid operatesElectronic shop changed the relay on the circuit board - still the same - no signs of shorts, smoke or burning on the boardChecked voltage on the gun - 1.5VCould this be a transformer winding issue?Have wiring diagram, but it is a clears as mud, as there is no schematic of the circuit board Was working perfectly. then just gave upThanksMike
Reply:Dave, I think it was working.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Britrest
Hi ...Weldpak 100Been a great welder for small jobs for over 15 years not a spot of bother Are you in England?Was welding last week and when pulling the trigger there was a buzzing and it blew the main 110 breaker after about 10 secondsNo wire feedChecked the feed motor and was fine on 12v Is that AC or DC? How did you check the motor; apply outside voltage to it while disconnected from its normal source?Bypassed the gun and jumped the connectors to the trigger on the machine above the feed motor- same - blew the breakerNo smoke or signs of shorts Where did you check for smoke or damage; everywhere inside?Fan runs Gas solenoid operatesElectronic shop changed the relay on the circuit board - still the same - no signs of shorts, smoke or burning on the board Checked voltage on the gun - 1.5VCould this be a transformer winding issue? More likely a problem in the rectifying section, perhaps in power diodes, or maybe a failure in a large capacitor that's short circuiting internally. Have wiring diagram, but it is a clears as mud, as there is no schematic of the circuit board A power surge couldn't go through a control board (at least without showing damage, and probably couldn't carry enough current to be the problem) so you need to isolate/test the rest of the main circuitry. Could you post the wiring diagram here, or find a link to your specific model's wiring? Was working perfectly. then just gave up ThanksMike
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
For better understanding of and ease of making my comments, I added them to your post above. Despite that being obvious to you, this passage is added so the system lets me preview and submit it all.
Reply:i have both a weldpak 100 and a weld pak 125hd, my weld pak 125HD stopped feeding wire one day and i checked out all the usual things , pc board , trigger switch , drive motor , the machine went on when i turned it on, fan motor running, clicking noise when i pulled the trigger , ect, the problem was the ON/OFF switch , even though it was getting turned on and running , theres like 5 wires coming out of the back of the switch , the switch was bad inside , i took the part number off the side of the switch , ordered a new one and she started welding again , maybe theres a wire in the on/off switch thats grounding your machine out , , its only $7.00, worth a try , heres the switch to get from amazon :CARLING TECHNOLOGIES RGSCC901-R-B-B-E SWITCH, ROCKER, DPDT, 20A, 250V, BLACK (1 piece)
Reply:
Originally Posted by Britrest
I am British living in CanadaYes I tested the motor .... no obvious signs of burning or smokeHere is a link to the diagramhttps://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/1...6.html?page=45Weldpak 100Mike
Reply:On these welders you have to have weld voltage first, then you can have wire drive.The motor control uses the weld voltage as a power supply.Tripping a breaker is most often caused by just an over loaded circuit. But if the welder hums real loud it can be a shorted diode. A lot of the time it is the one in back on the bottom. Using a meter with a diode test mode test all 4 in circuit. You will see a shorted diode but may not find an open one. To isolate the diodes you take loose the transformer connection in front, one lead off the large cap and unplug the pcb. One rare problem is a leaky weld capacitor. draws at large amount of current. can try disconnecting one lead from the cap, but if there are two wires on that terminal you will have to keep them together for your motor test.A bad relay on the pcb mat keep you from have weld voltage and wire drive but won't cause a breaker to trip. The two small wires on the cap going up to the pcb are the power supply wire to the motor circuit on the pcb.depending on which version you have, the pcb can by more complex. Voltage control can be either a potentiometer or a tap switch. Tap switch is the simplest. voltage is controlled by the switch and pcb is just a relay and motor control.Potentiometer type have an electronic dimmer switch on the pcb to control welder output.
Reply:Check the voltage at same time you press the trigger. It could a power supply problem. I seen this on Chinese equipment. Dave
Originally Posted by Britrest
Hi first postWeldpak 100Been a great welder for small jobs for over 15 years not a spot of botherWas welding last week and when pulling the trigger there was a buzzing and it blew the main 110 breaker after about 10 secondsNo wire feedChecked the feed motor and was fine on 12v Bypassed the gun and jumped the connectors to the trigger on the machine above the feed motor- same - blew the breakerNo smoke or signs of shortsFan runs Gas solenoid operatesElectronic shop changed the relay on the circuit board - still the same - no signs of shorts, smoke or burning on the boardChecked voltage on the gun - 1.5VCould this be a transformer winding issue?Have wiring diagram, but it is a clears as mud, as there is no schematic of the circuit board Was working perfectly. then just gave upThanksMike
Reply:Thanks for the info - I am up to my eyes in work at the moment, but I will check this out - sounds feasible, as the trip in the welder is not activated, only the breaker in the entrance panel There is a hum when I pull the trigger then the breaker trips after ten seconds - but it is not a loud hum
Reply:I think I posted my reply to the wrong post!Anyway..Thanks for the info - I am up to my eyes in work at the moment, but I will check this out - sounds feasible, as the trip in the welder is not activated, only the breaker in the entrance panelThere is a hum when I pull the trigger then the breaker trips after ten seconds - but it is not a loud hum
Reply:Sadly the inside cover diagram is very hard to read - where is the code number?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
I can't read most of the writing on that ("reprinted") version of the manual; below here is a link to the same, more legiblecopy (but still a general version for that model) from Lincoln. Lincoln Manual: https://www.lincolnelectric.com/asse...ln3/IMT460.pdfAs Lincoln says (highlighting mine):NOTE: This diagram is for reference only. It may not beaccurate for all machines covered by this manual.The specific diagram for a particular code is pastedinside the machine on one of the enclosure panels.Can you take another look at the machine, copy the code number and photograph the schematic and post both here?Disclaimer; I'm not an electronics expert but do understand some of the basics so may be able to suggest areas to check if other experts here like Duaneb55 don't reply first. There are some good older threads about troubleshooting MIG machines I may be able to find later, if you'd like to read them..
Reply:
Originally Posted by Britrest
Sadly the inside cover diagram is very hard to read - where is the code number? |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:38