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I recently acquired this cast iron platen table...
I don't know it's history but it has been reduced in size to its present approximate 4'x4' size from I assume an original 5'x5' or 5'x10' size Two sides are square and original as you can see from the above photoThe other two sides were probably cut (relatively decently) but obviously crudely with a carbon arc gouging torch.
My wish is to square up the two cut sides. Overall width is irrelevant as I just want it the sides straight and perpendicular The table is 6" deep overall due to ribs on the underside. The material that needs to be removed will require a 3" depth of cut. My plan is to flip the platen upside down and cut flush with the rib to achieve a square/ straight side. My question is "would a 14" gas powered chop saw with diamond blade do the job?"I know they use them for cast iron and ductile pipe but they only have under 1/2" thickness. Any suggestions ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:There is thread here where a member cut one. I cannot recall his name. He was a tube bending specialist. It was huge. I believe he was from flowery branch georgia
Reply:If it ends up being a problem to cut, would making a square frame out of a heavy angle with the vertical legs up and the table inside it work?...........Mike
Reply:
Originally Posted by mrmikey
If it ends up being a problem to cut, would making a square frame out of a heavy angle with the vertical legs up and the table inside it work?...........Mike
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
There is thread here where a member cut one. I cannot recall his name. He was a tube bending specialist. It was huge. I believe he was from flowery branch georgia
Reply:I could Mike, but the gouged gap catching crap would bug me
Reply:Could always fill the gap with braze or JB weld. Seems to me if you take off enough to clean it up, you'll be too close to the square holes making the outside ones useless anyway. If you move into the middle of the next row, you'll be doing some significant downsizing to the working size. In terms of reselling, I would think maintaining the present size offsets any aesthetics lost with the filled joint. I'm with Mike on this one... it's what I ended up doing on my welding table when I couldn't drill the top. I filled the gap with JB weld and didn't tell you guys... it's been getting hammered for 2 yrs and still walks like a trooper...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Could always fill the gap with braze or JB weld. Seems to me if you take off enough to clean it up, you'll be too close to the square holes making the outside ones useless anyway. If you move into the middle of the next row, you'll be doing some significant downsizing to the working size. In terms of reselling, I would think maintaining the present size offsets any aesthetics lost with the filled joint. I'm with Mike on this one... it's what I ended up doing on my welding table when I couldn't drill the top. I filled the gap with JB weld and didn't tell you guys... it's been getting hammered for 2 yrs and still walks like a trooper...
Reply:I use a band saw. A hand grinder works tooDave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I recently acquired this cast iron platen table...
I don't know it's history but it has been reduced in size to its present approximate 4'x4' size from I assume an original 5'x5' or 5'x10' size Two sides are square and original as you can see from the above photoThe other two sides were probably cut (relatively decently) but obviously crudely with a carbon arc gouging torch.
My wish is to square up the two cut sides. Overall width is irrelevant as I just want it the sides straight and perpendicular The table is 6" deep overall due to ribs on the underside. The material that needs to be removed will require a 3" depth of cut. My plan is to flip the platen upside down and cut flush with the rib to achieve a square/ straight side. My question is "would a 14" gas powered chop saw with diamond blade do the job?"I know they use them for cast iron and ductile pipe but they only have under 1/2" thickness. Any suggestions ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
I use a band saw. A hand grinder works tooDave
Reply:His company is Tubular Fabrication llc.. I cannot recall how many years ago the thread was posted. Perhaps somebody recall details. He moved it in the middle of the night due to size/traffic. It was not a long drive.
Reply:If it bothered me, which it wouldn't, I'd stand it on its side and grind it flat enough to suit me. Yeah, not what you want to hear but recognize this is from some one who finished casting for years and it was not unusual to spend all day grinding. 9" grinder with the right abrasive 3-4 hours probably. The deeper notches maybe use your mag drill to machine them to take a piece of round steel. Knock the side off the round stock in the mill and weld it in. Again if it bothered me.
It's Friday.---Meltedmetal
Reply:I would grind it some, get it decent. There is no reason you couldnt cut it with a chop saw though, cast cuts rather easy,, grinds easy.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I believe some blanchard grinders can take up to 60inch thick stock. If it were mine I would probably see if someone near by could clean it up for you on the top and sides with a blanchard grinder. Its at least worth a few phone calls to price it out. Maybe it could be fit into a Bridgeport to do something similar?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Your photo looks like in your 20's I can see point but cast iron does not cut like steel. I have not try plasma. I know some have use carbon arc. If lot of money there is thermal torch loves oxygen it will use 337cf in less that 10 minutes Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I'm 71 Dave. The clock is ticking.I don't have enough time to grind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I haven't had a whole lot of luck the little bit of cast I've cut. It seems to harden using an abrasive wheel, gets a layer on it once you make the initial cut with a gouge. I had better luck using a gouge and feeding in a 3/8" round bar into the cut. Haven't done a lot of it it tho, just my observations....M
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
Your photo looks like in your 20's I can see point but cast iron does not cut like steel. I have not try plasma. I know some have use carbon arc. If lot of money there is thermal torch loves oxygen it will use 337cf in less that 10 minutes Dave
Reply:Im certain it wont be a big deal when I finally do it Probably get it done in less time than I spend thinking about it. The story of my life so why change now.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
If it bothered me, which it wouldn't, I'd stand it on its side and grind it flat enough to suit me. Yeah, not what you want to hear but recognize this is from some one who finished casting for years and it was not unusual to spend all day grinding. 9" grinder with the right abrasive 3-4 hours probably. The deeper notches maybe use your mag drill to machine them to take a piece of round steel. Knock the side off the round stock in the mill and weld it in. Again if it bothered me.
It's Friday.
Reply:I could place it in a corner so the two good sides are visible but that would probably garner offers from Disney to stand in for Mickey.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk:
Reply:It does great job on removing dead weeds.Not very good where I live 😕. I have work a lot with cast iron I would buy 20 tons at time. The best I found was a band saw. Foundry use a cut off saw let sparks fly.Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I sold my oxy-thermal lance a few years ago
And yes I see the irony here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
Your photo looks like in your 20's Dave
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
I believe some blanchard grinders can take up to 60inch thick stock. If it were mine I would probably see if someone near by could clean it up for you on the top and sides with a blanchard grinder. Its at least worth a few phone calls to price it out. Maybe it could be fit into a Bridgeport to do something similar?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
What would you consider the “right abrasive”?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
They have changed the names on all their products in recent years but we were using Norzon III from Norton and Double XX from Walter. Quite a bit of what we cast was 55-65 Rockwell C as cast. Look for a wheel specified for cast iron. https://www.walter.com/products/abra...nding/xcavatorhttps://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-u...action=checkedMaybe like this: https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-u...grinding-wheelThey might be hard to find in small quantities and not cheap unless you can find a foundry that would sell you a few. Or talk to their sales people. We bought them in boxes of 25=$$$.I would not use a diamond saw - diamonds burn if they get too hot."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Any companies with water jet there?Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:Find a machine shop and let them mill it. A good sized horizontal mill could machine all 4 edges square and then flatten the top. A milled surface would be plenty accurate for most welding jobs.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:(1) Use 9" grinder with appropriate disc.(2) High school kid, maybe from welding class.(3) Fit him with appropriate PPE.(4) Pay him a reasonable hourly wage.(5) Turn him loose on the table.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bead-boy
Any companies with water jet there?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldendum
I would not use a diamond saw - diamonds burn if they get too hot.
Reply:Ever use 9" grinder need to weigh 300 pounds or more or will though the kid around like a paper doll. I had one onetime and gave more problems and everyone was afraid of using the 9" one day it ran away and never replaced. Dave
Originally Posted by shortfuse
(1) Use 9" grinder with appropriate disc.(2) High school kid, maybe from welding class.(3) Fit him with appropriate PPE.(4) Pay him a reasonable hourly wage.(5) Turn him loose on the table.
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
. Seems to me if you take off enough to clean it up, you'll be too close to the square holes making the outside ones useless anyway. If you move into the middle of the next row, you'll be doing some significant downsizing to the working size. ...
Reply:I appreciate all the comments. Here are better photos depicting what I wish to remove..
I want to remove the overhang of section A (which is 3" thick ) so that it is flush with section B
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
Ever use 9" grinder need to weigh 300 pounds or more or will though the kid around like a paper doll. I had one onetime and gave more problems and everyone was afraid of using the 9" one day it ran away and never replaced. Dave
Reply:I agree 👍 FYI Have him were cup tooDave
Originally Posted by shortfuse
(1) He doesn't have to bear down on it with all his weight, do you?(2) Pick a big kid (football lineman), not a butterfly weight guy.
Reply:
Originally Posted by propanehotrod
Find a machine shop and let them mill it. A good sized horizontal mill could machine all 4 edges square and then flatten the top. A milled surface would be plenty accurate for most welding jobs.
Reply:I agree with 1 of the earlier posters. I would take it to a machine shop to get everything milled. That is a nice chunk of cast-iron. You could have a highly functional and reasonably precise table for fabrication.
Reply:We had about 50 to 75 of them in a weld shop,,Each summer shutdown, a couple of them would be sent out to a shop that had a Blanchard Grinder.The surface that came back was remarkable.We only sent a couple per year, because that is all the time that the shop would dedicate to our updating of tables.If that were mine, I would be pursuing perfecting the work surface.If that shop could also do the edge, I would get it done, otherwise, I would forget the edge.The work surface is important,, go after that,, first,, then think about the edge.
Reply:Sounds great but cost today is great. The top can be lap witch is very cheap. Just go get a man hole cover and a bucket sand. 🪣 It will bring back to +-0.0001 Dave
Originally Posted by SweetMK
We had about 50 to 75 of them in a weld shop,,Each summer shutdown, a couple of them would be sent out to a shop that had a Blanchard Grinder.The surface that came back was remarkable.We only sent a couple per year, because that is all the time that the shop would dedicate to our updating of tables.If that were mine, I would be pursuing perfecting the work surface.If that shop could also do the edge, I would get it done, otherwise, I would forget the edge.The work surface is important,, go after that,, first,, then think about the edge.
Reply:YouTube has EVERYTHING covered,, including this project of cutting the two ends off.
,, It is DIY, so , the cost will be minimal,, use your MIG gun to feed the wire,,.
When you are over 70, and have plenty of project time,, this is perfect.Old guys in Texas sit around and watch cars rust,, (quote from "Smokey and the Bandit")Cutting cast iron with wire EDM is like watching rust happen,,,,,,,,,,,
`~` ,,,,,
Reply:Terry, If you are going to grind, these things eat metal like you have never seen. I was absolutely amazed the first time I tried them. I would recommend 7" or 9" for this work, but this is the disc you want. You need backer pads to mount them toohttps://www.amazon.com/Cubitron-987C...0AW16GDM&psc=1-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:I would probably cut it with a chop saw and then 1/4 hard disk on big grinder run flat to work on the top. Just for giggles see how much a sawzall cuts?www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Figured you would put it on a horizonal boring mill? but a hot saw is going to be hard to keep straight and take a while. a place with a big vertical band saw could proabably do it but destroy a few blades. cast is hard on hss. Maybe a grit band. carbide toothed chainsaw? Water jet that dosent sound like a cheap proposition at all 3” is a long ways form the nozzle.Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:
Originally Posted by davec
Terry, If you are going to grind, these things eat metal like you have never seen. I was absolutely amazed the first time I tried them. I would recommend 7" or 9" for this work, but this is the disc you want. You need backer pads to mount them toohttps://www.amazon.com/Cubitron-987C...0AW16GDM&psc=1
Reply:
Originally Posted by idacal
Figured you would put it on a horizonal boring mill? but a hot saw is going to be hard to keep straight and take a while. a place with a big vertical band saw could proabably do it but destroy a few blades. cast is hard on hss. Maybe a grit band. carbide toothed chainsaw? Water jet that dosent sound like a cheap proposition at all 3 is a long ways form the nozzle.
Reply:You can rent a floor grinder and get close then lap. I have use settings machinery and get within a few thousands. FYI use a wooden frame around the cast iron for grinder to over run space.The sides you still the line backer and cup 🥤. The line backer can run floor grinder too.Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I recently acquired this cast iron platen table...
I don't know it's history but it has been reduced in size to its present approximate 4'x4' size from I assume an original 5'x5' or 5'x10' size Two sides are square and original as you can see from the above photoThe other two sides were probably cut (relatively decently) but obviously crudely with a carbon arc gouging torch.
My wish is to square up the two cut sides. Overall width is irrelevant as I just want it the sides straight and perpendicular The table is 6" deep overall due to ribs on the underside. The material that needs to be removed will require a 3" depth of cut. My plan is to flip the platen upside down and cut flush with the rib to achieve a square/ straight side. My question is "would a 14" gas powered chop saw with diamond blade do the job?"I know they use them for cast iron and ductile pipe but they only have under 1/2" thickness. Any suggestions ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Yeah. I’m almost afraid to even ASK the water jet guys. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:At the moment the mill option is out. No horizontal milling machine locally that is big enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:Note place make headstones have equipment to make it flatThere is hand scarping it used on machine tools too.Try a horizontal boring machine Please sit down before seeing the bill. The only take cash or gold they will not take take first born. Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
At the moment the mill option is out. No horizontal milling machine locally that is big enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:28