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Gents,A friend of mine has been let down by the contractor during the upgrade of his new house. They kept the outisde walls, emptied the inside, excavated downwards for a deeper basement and erected the steel and concrete structure of the three floors.Right now he has no stairs. At all. And he asked me for help. Yesterday I checked the work onsite along with the plans and we are going to do it ourselves. Architect is cool with it and I have seen the current welds there and I can, for certain, do much better. I will snap a few pictures for you to look at it.And this brings us to the my question. I am not familiar with construction lingo, so I will try to describe it the best I can. The stair structure (stringers?) are made of U profile (UPE 140) and then the steps are made with one or several pieces of bent diamond plate. Plate will be sheared and bent at the steel suplier, but the U profiles (6m, 18 feet sticks) will be delivered whole to the worksite.These are de dimensions of the UPE 140:
And I need to cut lots of it. Right now my cutting means I believe are not enough to do it in a reasonable amont of time, as I only own several 5" grinders and a portaband.I am considering buying one of twe following tools:- Corded circular metal cutting saw MILWAUKEE MCS 66. --> Maximum depth of cut is 66mm and the flange of the UP140 is 65mm, so it will clear it by 1mm- 180mm small gear head abrasive angle grinder WEPBA 19-180 --> Being a U profile I can rotate the piece and cut arround, I could even do it with a 125mm grinder, but this will be much faster.I already own several grinders and the metal circular saw will be a good addition to the arsenal. I understand is much less versatile than the grinder, but speed and precission of cut matters much more in this situation. My main worry is if the Milwaukee saw is meant for plate and the ocassional tube or structural profile... or I can be cutting U 140 profile all day (Flange is 9mm thick, web is 5mm)What are your thoughts? Purchase of either one is to be done during the weekend or Monday at most so it is ready for next week.Mikel
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mikel_24
Gents,A friend of mine has been let down by the contractor during the upgrade of his new house. They kept the outisde walls, emptied the inside, excavated downwards for a deeper basement and erected the steel and concrete structure of the three floors.Right now he has no stairs. At all. And he asked me for help. Yesterday I checked the work onsite along with the plans and we are going to do it ourselves. Architect is cool with it and I have seen the current welds there and I can, for certain, do much better. I will snap a few pictures for you to look at it.And this brings us to the my question. I am not familiar with construction lingo, so I will try to describe it the best I can. The stair structure (stringers?) are made of U profile (UPE 140) and then the steps are made with one or several pieces of bent diamond plate. Plate will be sheared and bent at the steel suplier, but the U profiles (6m, 18 feet sticks) will be delivered whole to the worksite.These are de dimensions of the UPE 140: And I need to cut lots of it. Right now my cutting means I believe are not enough to do it in a reasonable amont of time, as I only own several 5" grinders and a portaband.I am considering buying one of twe following tools:- Corded circular metal cutting saw MILWAUKEE MCS 66. --> Maximum depth of cut is 66mm and the flange of the UP140 is 65mm, so it will clear it by 1mm- 180mm small gear head abrasive angle grinder WEPBA 19-180 --> Being a U profile I can rotate the piece and cut arround, I could even do it with a 125mm grinder, but this will be much faster.I already own several grinders and the metal circular saw will be a good addition to the arsenal. I understand is much less versatile than the grinder, but speed and precission of cut matters much more in this situation. My main worry is if the Milwaukee saw is meant for plate and the ocassional tube or structural profile... or I can be cutting U 140 profile all day (Flange is 9mm thick, web is 5mm)What are your thoughts? Purchase of either one is to be done during the weekend or Monday at most so it is ready for next week.Mikel
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mikel_24
Gents,A friend of mine has been let down by the contractor during the upgrade of his new house. They kept the outisde walls, emptied the inside, excavated downwards for a deeper basement and erected the steel and concrete structure of the three floors.Right now he has no stairs. At all. And he asked me for help. Yesterday I checked the work onsite along with the plans and we are going to do it ourselves. Architect is cool with it and I have seen the current welds there and I can, for certain, do much better. I will snap a few pictures for you to look at it.And this brings us to the my question. I am not familiar with construction lingo, so I will try to describe it the best I can. The stair structure (stringers?) are made of U profile (UPE 140) and then the steps are made with one or several pieces of bent diamond plate. Plate will be sheared and bent at the steel suplier, but the U profiles (6m, 18 feet sticks) will be delivered whole to the worksite.These are de dimensions of the UPE 140:
And I need to cut lots of it. Right now my cutting means I believe are not enough to do it in a reasonable amont of time, as I only own several 5" grinders and a portaband.I am considering buying one of twe following tools:- Corded circular metal cutting saw MILWAUKEE MCS 66. --> Maximum depth of cut is 66mm and the flange of the UP140 is 65mm, so it will clear it by 1mm- 180mm small gear head abrasive angle grinder WEPBA 19-180 --> Being a U profile I can rotate the piece and cut arround, I could even do it with a 125mm grinder, but this will be much faster.I already own several grinders and the metal circular saw will be a good addition to the arsenal. I understand is much less versatile than the grinder, but speed and precission of cut matters much more in this situation. My main worry is if the Milwaukee saw is meant for plate and the ocassional tube or structural profile... or I can be cutting U 140 profile all day (Flange is 9mm thick, web is 5mm)What are your thoughts? Purchase of either one is to be done during the weekend or Monday at most so it is ready for next week.Mikel
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
I don't know that specific Milwaukee model (it maybe not even available here) but I have an older 14" Makita similar to the one just below and find it very useful for certain jobs:https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LW1401The similar version of a Milwaukee saw (I have lots of other Milwaukee tools, but no saw) is this:https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...achine/6177-20I also have a small Jet horizontal/vertical band saw and a Roll-In band saw I inherited but haven't used a lot yet. The cut-off saws would probably be the cheapest solution, but depending on what else you do, a bandsaw might be more versatile. An angle grinder couldn't do a clean and neat enough job to satisfy me, if doing more than a couple cuts.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
I don't know that specific Milwaukee model (it maybe not even available here) but I have an older 14" Makita similar to the one just below and find it very useful for certain jobs....
Reply:Maybe I missed a requirement in all of this, but I would ditch the hand tools AND ditch the abrasive blades and go for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230.../dp/B00004YOLVThe carbide tipped saw blade will make cleaner cuts, faster. And you can set it up on an improvised work bench to make more consistent and repeatable cuts than would be possible with a hand held device.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Is the Fein Slugger available in Spain?
Reply:I'm not clear whether you are cutting stringers at an angle. That's big iron, you won't get much life out of a blade. A 9" angle grinder is a treacherous way to cut, a broken cut off wheel is like a hand grenade when it breaks.I would use plasma & clean it up with a grinder. I also have a chainsaw style uses 16" discs.Horizontal bandsaw might not easily cut the angles you will need.Why are you not using wood? Fire regulations?I built stairs using 2X12 stringers & treads. They are dadoed into the stringers 1/2" deep. I used 6" long screws 10 per tread & a tie bolt full width under a tread a couple places in the run of stringers.Other wooden stairs have a 2x12 stringer each side for support & a second stringer inboard each side notched to support treads.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Wolfman
Is the Fein Slugger available in Spain?
Reply:Metal cutting circ saw is a tool I used. Make a clampable straight edge for the saw. A straight edge mounted on sheet steel with a fence and the edge represent the saw blade. Mostly I use plasma for stair stringers, now. Never had a blade quit on me due to cutting angles in channel. Plasma is faster. I do not use my steel max circ saw for anything, these daysLast edited by tapwelder; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:23 AM.
Reply:Nothing wrong with using a grinder, though.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
Metal cutting circ saw is a tool I used. Make a clampable straight edge for the saw. A straight edge mounted on sheet steel with a fence and the edge represent the saw blade. Mostly I use plasma for stair stringers, now. Never had a blade quit on me due to cutting angles in channel. Plasma is faster. I do not use my steel max circ saw for anything, these days
Reply:Angle might interfere with the motor travel.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
Angle might interfere with the motor travel.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Willie B
I'm not clear whether you are cutting stringers at an angle. That's big iron, you won't get much life out of a blade. A 9" angle grinder is a treacherous way to cut, a broken cut off wheel is like a hand grenade when it breaks.I would use plasma & clean it up with a grinder. I also have a chainsaw style uses 16" discs.Horizontal bandsaw might not easily cut the angles you will need.Why are you not using wood? Fire regulations?I built stairs using 2X12 stringers & treads. They are dadoed into the stringers 1/2" deep. I used 6" long screws 10 per tread & a tie bolt full width under a tread a couple places in the run of stringers.Other wooden stairs have a 2x12 stringer each side for support & a second stringer inboard each side notched to support treads.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Those are some fancy wooden stairs. Standard construction methods leave you with basically a 2X4 supporting the stairs. You notch your stairs out of the 2X12 stringers with a circ saw followed by hand saw or a jig saw. That's standard construction.Not ideal, but it's what most homes have.I've seen a LOT worse in residential construction. I'm more worried about how it's attached at the top end than how the stringers look. I don't care if it's a 12X12 oak beam. If it'd butted up to a beam with one nail holding it at the top and nothing at the bottom, it's a hazard.As long as it's built as it should be, with metal hangers and whatnot, I'll be happy Edit: as long as the workers have common sense. If they try to nail a joist hanger even though the board has bark enclusions and knots on that end that the nails are going through, they're worthless, need to be fired, and boards are needing to be replaced.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:26