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Transformer welder for a dump load?

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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:19 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Do any of you have any thoughts about this?? I am looking for a way I can get 30-50a draw on 240v to get a good load on a generator (specifically the engine, not the electrical system). I have heard of people warming up welding rods by shorting them out. So that brings up the question - is there a way I could rig the welders circuit with something (not necessarily welding rods) to get me in the range of electrical draw I am trying to get to - without damaging the welder? I'd like to be able to let the rig run for a period of time - as in beyond just burning a few rods. I did test a circuit once using 2x 5/32" rods welded together so I could crank the amps up on the welder. However, the burn time on that isn't long enough and that seems like a lot of waste - rods and metal the beads are on. For reference the welder I am looking at using is an Idealarc 250 AC/DC (1966 MY, round top).
Reply:whats the purpose...  To "break in" the generator?I wouldn't think that would be necessary...Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

Do any of you have any thoughts about this?? I am looking for a way I can get 30-50a draw on 240v to get a good load on a generator (specifically the engine, not the electrical system). I have heard of people warming up welding rods by shorting them out. So that brings up the question - is there a way I could rig the welders circuit with something (not necessarily welding rods) to get me in the range of electrical draw I am trying to get to - without damaging the welder? I'd like to be able to let the rig run for a period of time - as in beyond just burning a few rods. I did test a circuit once using 2x 5/32" rods welded together so I could crank the amps up on the welder. However, the burn time on that isn't long enough and that seems like a lot of waste - rods and metal the beads are on. For reference the welder I am looking at using is an Idealarc 250 AC/DC (1966 MY, round top).
Reply:What about making a homebrew saltwater load bank? You'd be able to dump a LOT of kW of power into trying to boil that water...not sure what it might do to your welder or generator, though!https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/...oadbank.46075/Last edited by StandarDyne; 1 Week Ago at 11:58 AM.
Reply:I am sure all these schemes would be easier or simpler than finding a resistor?     Easy way would be to wire it to a heater element, even water heater.I did test a circuit once using 2x 5/32" rods welded together so I could crank the amps up on the welder. However, the burn time on that isn't long enough and that seems like a lot of waste - rods and metal the beads are on.For reference the welder I am looking at using is an Idealarc 250 AC/DC (1966 MY, round top).
Reply:Homemade water resistor used with extreme caution.  I’ve seen some old variable speed motor drives using water resistors for speed control. Just one of the many speed control methods before VFDs.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:

Originally Posted by Sberry

I am sure all these schemes would be easier or simpler than finding a resistor?     Easy way would be to wire it to a heater element, even water heater.  At 240 volts this is extremely dangerous and would short circuit the genset.   2nd,, this is a super poor machine to try to run from one.
Reply:Whoop-s, I had to re read this whole thing,,, wants to short the welder to load the engine.Last edited by Sberry; 1 Week Ago at 01:49 PM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:What is the purpose of loading the gennie? just to see if the smoke leaks out of it?Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:It took me a min to grasp,,,, he wants to short circuit the welder to use as a load bank for the genset.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:

Originally Posted by Sberry

he wants to short circuit the welder to use as a load bank for the genset.
Reply:

Originally Posted by John T

Why?For what purpose?
Reply:Prolly wants to see if it makes full power?www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Well,cutting through all the BS,seems like post #2 hit the nail on the head.

Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Gives the "inventors" something to work on.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I generally plug in electric heaters to load a generator.Each "side" of a generator is 120v, so plugging in the same number of heaters on both circuits does the job.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:He wants to clap out the welder so it won't work right welding overhead.
Reply:If the OP is looking to break in the engine and welding side of the Gen head and it's a Miller, he is in fact one of the few that actually read the manual. You can run on a load bank or weld at 200-250 amps for a select amount of time. Four hours I thought it was the last time we did a new Big Blue 800 dual.
Reply:If you have an electric range at your location, this makes a very good load bank for testing gen-sets.    Bob
Reply:good idea, I was thinking oven, trying to put a finger on it but the range idea is perfect.  Could turn any n umber of burners on.  You should get the big bucks for that one.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:The cheap way is a homemade salt water load bank in one or more 55 gal drums. The less cheap way is resistive heating elements and fans. Of course, the premium way is an actual load bank.I don't know the OP's purpose in doing this, but when you test diesel gennys, they need ran under a load to prevent wet stacking.
Reply:Thanks for the replies.No, the unit is not a Miller engine drive. The generator is a 15kw unit that has a Honda GX690 engine. It is new to me (and never ran from the previous owner) and I dont have much time on it. I want to say it ran for about 6 hours last summer.The issue with the generator is even if we were to run the whole house off of it there wouldnt be enough draw on it to really load it to get it up to temps. The ~6hr run last summer was an attempt tp break it in while running out camping, of sorts, but that was essentially running with next to no load.Engines need to be loaded. 20hrs is the break in period and the 6hr very little load I ran it with wasnt a good enough "break in".If we had a power outage where the central AC was running a lot then that would be a good time to break in - as the AC would draw a decent load. However, even central AC running (not start up) would be a light load for the generator. If I ran both the central AC and electric clothes dryer on high together that would get me in the range of load, but the AC cycling would mean start up load on top of the dryer - and the start up load of the AC may be higher than it can take (50a breaker and the engine does have enough power to drive through the breaker tripping I believe, though I have not tested that - I can at some point - and the welder set to high amperage can get up that high on draw). Im just trying to come up with a more controlled method. We dont have an electric range so that is out. The only 240 loads we have are central AC, clothes dryer, and welders. And Id like to get what ever method off the house - just between the generator and load.
Reply:Honestly, you'll just shorten the life of that generator. Motors shouldn't be "broken in" under load. The manufacturer recommends the opposite
Reply:

Originally Posted by Louie1961

Honestly, you'll just shorten the life of that generator. Motors shouldn't be "broken in" under load. The manufacturer recommends the opposite
Reply:I think the OP is looking for a problem that does not exist.I just read the official Honda manual on this engine and nowhere in it does it say anything abouta break in procedure or break in hours.https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com...X37Z6L6010.pdf

Originally Posted by rexcormack

I think the OP is looking for a problem that does not exist.I just read the official Honda manual on this engine and nowhere in it does it say anything abouta break in procedure or break in hours.https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com...X37Z6L6010.pdf
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

Are using "motor" as the same term as "engine"?  Diesel engines are usually "broken in" under varying loads, the worst thing you can do is run an engine under zero load trying to get the rings seated especially at an idle. When I turn a rebuilt truck engine out of the shop the driver is instructed to drive normally varying the speeds slightly and avoiding extra heavy pulls at first, hold a gear or two lower on long hills for the first 1500 miles to seat things in.
Reply:With 6 hours of runtime on that 22hp motor, one of two scenarios has most likely already happened. Either:a) the motor is already broken in, orb) the cylinder walls have glazed and the rings will NEVER properly seat.If it doesn't burn oil, then the rings have seated and the motor is broken in.If it DOES burn oil. then the cylinder glazed and/or the rings got jammed up with carbon before the rings seated.I think the OP is probably making a tempest in a teacup out of this.
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

Are using "motor" as the same term as "engine"?  Diesel engines are usually "broken in" under varying loads, the worst thing you can do is run an engine under zero load trying to get the rings seated especially at an idle. When I turn a rebuilt truck engine out of the shop the driver is instructed to drive normally varying the speeds slightly and avoiding extra heavy pulls at first, hold a gear or two lower on long hills for the first 1500 miles to seat things in.
Reply:Hey 12v71I got me a present today from Brown.  

.

Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Now all ya gotta do now, John, is weld some black iron fittings onto that!


Reply:

Originally Posted by StandarDyne

Now all ya gotta do now, John, is weld some black iron fittings onto that!


Reply:

Originally Posted by John T

Hey 12v71I got me a present today from Brown.  

.


Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

That's PURDY.

For the 7.3L?
Reply:Glad its u and not me,,, ha If you really bored I could find you a couple fixes.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:

Originally Posted by StandarDyne

Uh-oh, LOOKOUT

Looks like we got us an INSTRUCTION MANUAL READER here!
Reply:Generac Home Standby machines are supplied with a proprietary break in oil you leave in for an extended period. No mention is made of any out of the ordinary break in procedure other than that.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:It appears the OP is looking for a nonexistent problem.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:

Originally Posted by Willie B

Generac Home Standby machines are supplied with a proprietary break in oil.
Reply:Its almost scary how much we think alike.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:

Originally Posted by John T

Is that the same thing as snake oil?
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

Are using "motor" as the same term as "engine"?  Diesel engines are usually "broken in" under varying loads, the worst thing you can do is run an engine under zero load trying to get the rings seated especially at an idle. When I turn a rebuilt truck engine out of the shop the driver is instructed to drive normally varying the speeds slightly and avoiding extra heavy pulls at first, hold a gear or two lower on long hills for the first 1500 miles to seat things in.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Willie B

I doubt it is more than fossil based oil, they just don't want the crankcase filled with anything weird before a fighting chance at break in."The thrill of victory, the agony of defeat, the constant variety of stupid"
Reply:

Originally Posted by Insaneride

Most likely a non detergent oil. Ive heard that recommended before for first oil when breaking in.
Reply:

Originally Posted by 12V71

I think the break-in oils may be a bit higher in zinc content to protect slipper type cam followers. Could be wrong though.
Reply:If it came with something called break in oil out it would go, new off the shelf oil goes in.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Back in the olden days, I think they used to put a special "break-in" oil in automobile engines, but I guess they don't anymore, so that no one will try to get 50k miles out of it.
Reply:

Originally Posted by StandarDyne

Back in the olden days, I think they used to put a special "break-in" oil in automobile engines, but I guess they don't anymore, so that no one will try to get 50k miles out of it.
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