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Trying to remove the face plate to this thing.The knobs have 2 set screws each which i fully removed and they still wont budge.I tried a strap wrench to wiggle it, tried light taps with a dead blow. No luck.Theres maybe 1/32 of space behind them so no real room for wedges.
www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachMillermatic 255Lincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:I was curious, so I googled and found the manual. https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0779_m.pdfMaybe the parts explosion on page 42 will give you an idea. I suppose you could remove screws 113 from 110 and 118 and slide it out.........but that looks like a lot of work!Joe
Reply:Not sureBut I would probably remove the set screws completely and put a couple drops of penetrating oil in there.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Can you tell if the part with the set screws is actually part of the knob or is it a collar between the knob and the face plate and you need to pull on the knob itself? The diagram AlabamaJoe linked appears to show roll pins to mount the knobs.---Meltedmetal
Reply:So we're talking about the knobs labelled #20? It doesn't help that they are a different style. I would try John's suggestion, Fluidfilm in the holes, and then a couple rags in boiling water draped over the knobs for a while. If that doesn't work, I'm suspecting there may be a nut behind that glued cover plate with the arrow on it, unless it's all part of the knob. Is it all metal? Maybe a little heat from something like a soldering iron if there isn't any plastic involved. Forhire had one a while back that popped up a bit and then unscrewed, but I doubt that's the case here. A small 3 leg puller on a slide hammer might give you a little more oomph, but you don't want to damage the switches either...Last edited by whtbaron; 17 Hours Ago at 10:24 AM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Does it have double set screws? One on top of the other?
Reply:Or if there is in fact a roll pin, is it under the set screws? They would have to be 180* opposed to do that...Last edited by whtbaron; 17 Hours Ago at 10:28 AM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:My first instinct is that they're were pressed on and the set screws were there for a belt-n-suspenders approach. Even with a fairly slack fit between the knob and shaft, years of crud building up in there could have really jammed them good.Were it me, I would make up a gear puller of sorts. You have the neck that would allow the jaws of a puller to latch on pretty solid, I think. You could even wrap them with a hose clamp to make sure they stay tight in that groove.The tricky part would be making the gear puller so that there are three screws pressing against the face of the machine. I can see it in my head, but trying to get it down in writing is a bugabear!Cut a triangular plate and hinge the jaws off the middle of the legs. At each point, drill and tap for 3/8-16 bolts that can be screwed down until are pushing against the face plate. As you tighten up the bolts, the jaws move away from the front of the machine and hopefully take the knob, too.If you had a split collar that would fit around the necks of the knobs, you could simply weld some coupling nuts to it and do the same thing. The collar would distribute the force nicely and prevent marring.Does that make sense?
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Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
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Originally Posted by Roert42
Reply:Grizzly may know?
Reply:The nuclear option in my head is 3D printing a set of wedges and protective plates for the knob/face of the machine.I’m fairly certain it will work i was just trying to avoid the labor.www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachMillermatic 255Lincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
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Originally Posted by Roert42
Reply:I'd still use heat before you rip the centers out ...Last edited by whtbaron; 12 Hours Ago at 03:04 PM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:It is a gear shift .I had one till ran away one day.Dave
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I'd still use heat before you rip the centers out of the switches...
Reply:Call Grizzly tech support. Have model number and serial number handy. They have great support, or at least have in the past when I have called them. The number will be in the manual or online or maybe even on the machine label. No need to guess.And Vaughn, the tool shown is called a bearing separator. Very common, especially in automotive repair work.-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
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Originally Posted by Roert42
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发表于 2022-3-12 15:51:29