Best way to weld interior handrail?

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I’ve got a customer that is needing a handrail repair. It’s inside of the building and removing it from the wall without damaging the rail or wall is almost impossible. My thoughts were to tig it in place. I was going to cover the wooden steps and tape some cardboard to the wall behind it to prevent scorching. I’m not 100% sure what the material is (guessing cold rolled steel). It is all magnetic. Looks like someone else has tried to repair it and failed. Grinding the old weld off may be a concern also, being indoors and all.  They are not terribly worried about the paint on the rail discoloring, said they’d touch it up if necessary. It’s more of a safety concern for them. I’m fairly new to tig welding, so if that’s the best option, what tungsten and filler rod would you recommend? Thanks





Last edited by Dodgediesel2; 10 Hours Ago at 05:36 PM.
Reply:What repair are doing?  E70-6 and E3 electrode.  Nothing special.Carry some metal flashing for wall protection.  I would fashion a piece to rest against the wall where I was welding.  Need an excellent ground/contact otherwise you tig is like 6011. Cardboard smell strong when it burns.  Grinding plume leaves marks and stains also dust and smell are strong.  Grind enough paint so burning will not occur.  That will minimise smell and make touch neater.Non abrasive wheel work well for cutting weld and minimizing dust. Expensive, but produce heavy chips less dust.Just something to consider since residence looks occupied...I carry a fume extractor, and/or and air scrubber and hepa vaccuum. Though I have welded in many homes without them...Good luck
Reply:Oh, i see the broken one.  Is it just one?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

Oh, i see the broken one.  Is it just one?
Reply:I have worked indoors and I used a torch welding with E70-6S . But best was brazing it lower heat and better control of sparks (none). The biggest problem I found was sparks from grinding.  In end it was files and  burs in a handdrill. Even spark from steel rods (E70-6S) was problem.  Dave

Originally Posted by Dodgediesel2

I’ve got a customer that is needing a handrail repair. It’s inside of the building and removing it from the wall without damaging the rail or wall is almost impossible. My thoughts were to tig it in place. I was going to cover the wooden steps and tape some cardboard to the wall behind it to prevent scorching. I’m not 100% sure what the material is (guessing cold rolled steel). It is all magnetic. Looks like someone else has tried to repair it and failed. Grinding the old weld off may be a concern also, being indoors and all.  They are not terribly worried about the paint on the rail discoloring, said they’d touch it up if necessary. It’s more of a safety concern for them. I’m fairly new to tig welding, so if that’s the best option, what tungsten and filler rod would you recommend? Thanks






Reply:Gonna take longer to prep everything and tin against the wall and or a fireproof blanket same with stairs heavy tarp wet rags in bucket ready to use fire extinguisher ready I would do it with wire once I had it ground off
Reply:Now is a good time to buy a welding blanket. You will use it again. I don't think you need a filler rod, just tig it where you melt what is there. Use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to take the paint of and you could keep the sparks to a bare minimum.
Reply:This kind of applies but I remember early on forums a guy talking about the new machines and getting them for indoor tig of rail.  I might be tempted to rig up a spark catcher and dick around with a grinder to fix that up prior to welding. Aint no way I would weld against the wall unless I was dead sure it was 100% stone behind it.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I carry 2- 4' x 6' leather blankets on the truck at all times. You can also buy a soldering blanket which is basically a piece of fiberglass mat about 12x12 that can handle 450* heat.As far as welding, do whatever. I prefer tig, then mig, then stick. The smoke from stick builds up fast and can stain upstairs areas.Tig doesnt like paint, Mig can handle some paint, stick is the best for paint. Flux core is a no go over paint inside. You'll make a hot mess before you even get started.Last edited by Country Metals; 7 Hours Ago at 07:56 PM.
Reply:Its just the 1 weld I would absolutely dick around with grinder and chisel, finish it back to original shape, grind the paint off, would weld it with any equipment I had but most likely a 3/32 7018 and might use a new rod for each side. Might rig a bucket or tray to catch a slag ball if I dropped one.  2 welds, one each side not a lot of pecking around with tack up.  A little slow and deliberate is worth it here, dont got to shoot fire every direction.  That doesnt need to be sealed all the way around, just asking for a lot of sputtering and slag spitting, would get ground back to new clean joint and start over.Last edited by Sberry; 7 Hours Ago at 08:00 PM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I like the welding fireproof blanket The last time I did inside welding I used plywood and wet cardboard I purchase a blanket and sold it before using it to a friend doing weldingDave

Originally Posted by Leogl

Gonna take longer to prep everything and tin against the wall and or a fireproof blanket same with stairs heavy tarp wet rags in bucket ready to use fire extinguisher ready I would do it with wire once I had it ground off
Reply:

Originally Posted by Bob

Now is a good time to buy a welding blanket. You will use it again. I don't think you need a filler rod, just tig it where you melt what is there. Use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to take the paint of and you could keep the sparks to a bare minimum.