30x6' gate opening suggestions. Rolling?

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Hi, everyone.  I've searched the forum and others and read what info I can find but haven't seen anything specific to my situation...My property backs up to an alley that's 12' wide and a dead end.  My garage door is 12' from the property line.  Right now, I have a 5' tall chain link fence that ends about 8' away from the garage and the back of the garage is open to the alley.  I'd like to enclose the back of the property with a 6 foot fence and gate of some configuration.There's about a 6" drop from the garage door to the property line, which continues to the center of the alley.Getting anything into the garage from the alley can be a challenge, but I think I can get anything I need to in there with a 30' gate opening.  I laid out 20, 24, and 30 and brought my suburban back there and 20 made the angles really tough, 24 was doable but I'd never be able to get anything more complicated than the suburban back there.  30 was tight but doable.So it seems like a 30' rolling gate would be the most logical choice.  I'd need to pour a pad for the gate track, and I have plenty of width for over a 60' run.So since I don't have a ton of time and my wife is bugging me to get some privacy back there now, I started calling contractors.  Long story short, I think I have enough time to DIY if I take it in stages.  I've fabbed metal frame gates before but nothing that big or rolling.3 of the contractors that gave me quotes said 30' is too big and would create problems due to the wind etc...  One said not to create the gate at all, one said 20' max and the other would go to 24'.  (I called about 20, but could only get 3 to come out)I see pictures of rolling gates much larger than 30' so what's your take?If you vote for rolling...  If I made it with a 2x6 frame with 3 same size verticals, would 16ga be strong/rigid enough?  Would you still do triangulated 2x2s?  And could I make it completely opaque with sheet metal, or would I need to reduce the wind load in some fashion?For the end posts, I saw a double post configuration (about 6' apart with the gate rolling between and a solid connection at the top) on both ends that looked logical. Would 3x3 11ga 3 feet deep in concrete be sufficient?Thanks!Last edited by Swisdom; 9 Hours Ago at 05:56 PM.
Reply:Can you post a drawing gate .I designed built a lot of 30 foot gates in my life. Dave

Originally Posted by Swisdom

Hi, everyone.  I've searched the forum and others and read what info I can find but haven't seen anything specific to my situation...My property backs up to an alley that's 12' wide and a dead end.  My garage door is 12' from the property line.  Right now, I have a 5' tall chain link fence that ends about 8' away from the garage and the back of the garage is open to the alley.  I'd like to enclose the back of the property with a 6 foot fence and gate of some configuration.There's about a 6" drop from the garage door to the property line, which continues to the center of the alley.Getting anything into the garage from the alley can be a challenge, but I think I can get anything I need to in there with a 30' gate opening.  I laid out 20, 24, and 30 and brought my suburban back there and 20 made the angles really tough, 24 was doable but I'd never be able to get anything more complicated than the suburban back there.  30 was tight but doable.So it seems like a 30' rolling gate would be the most logical choice.  I'd need to pour a pad for the gate track, and I have plenty of width for over a 60' run.So since I don't have a ton of time and my wife is bugging me to get some privacy back there now, I started calling contractors.  Long story short, I think I have enough time to DIY if I take it in stages.  I've fabbed metal frame gates before but nothing that big or rolling.3 of the contractors that gave me quotes said 30' is too big and would create problems due to the wind etc...  One said not to create the gate at all, one said 20' max and the other would go to 24'.  (I called about 20, but could only get 3 to come out)I see pictures of rolling gates much larger than 30' so what's your take?If you vote for rolling...  If I made it with a 2x6 frame with 3 same size verticals, would 16ga be strong/rigid enough?  Would you still do triangulated 2x2s?  And could I make it completely opaque with sheet metal, or would I need to reduce the wind load in some fashion?For the end posts, I saw a double post configuration (about 6' apart with the gate rolling between and a solid connection at the top) on both ends that looked logical. Would 3x3 11ga 3 feet deep in concrete be sufficient?Thanks!
Reply:Tough design.  For weight saving I would not stay symmetrical on the truss.  The tension side could cable and the compression side tubing.  How is the wind in your area?  The double post is a good design.  Good quality roller overhead is important.  Could be noise if they are steel.  A rest at the bottom also.2x6x16g is too small for top and bottom framing.  At least least 11g. 16g for bracing is ok.  Which way were you orienting the rect tubing.   Distortion will be a challenge to be considered, just be prepared.At 30 ft you will be splicing.  Perhaps, another factor the contractors did not want to deal with onsite?Good luck
Reply:

Originally Posted by smithdoor

Can you post a drawing gate .I designed built a lot of 30 foot gates in my life. Dave
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

Tough design.  For weight saving I would not stay symmetrical on the truss.  The tension side could cable and the compression side tubing.  How is the wind in your area?  The double post is a good design.  Good quality roller overhead is important.  Could be noise if they are steel.  A rest at the bottom also.2x6x16g is too small for top and bottom framing.  At least least 11g. 16g for bracing is ok.  Which way were you orienting the rect tubing.   Distortion will be a challenge to be considered, just be prepared.At 30 ft you will be splicing.  Perhaps, another factor the contractors did not want to deal with onsite?Good luck
Reply:Noise from rattling against top roller as wind blows. As nonmetal coated roller would help.
Reply:That simple build. I would use square tubing so frame does not twist. The hardware is easy to build .The hardware is made so there no rattling use ball bearing.  The wheels I would use 8" diameter grove for a 1/2" flat bar (typically 2x4 flat bar in concrete.  Dave

Originally Posted by Swisdom

Were you looking for a picture of the site or of the gate design?I don't have a picture of my actual design yet, because I'm not married to any design yet...  I'll do whatever makes sense structurally and financially...  That said, I like this...  The slats seemed like a good way to keep privacy but let some wind through.  My thought was top, bottom, sides and verticals would be 2x6 metal of whatever thickness makes sense and then I'd brace and triangulate from there.  After it was sound, I'd figure out how much privacy to add.http://ironcustomworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/simple-gate-designs-for-homes-house-main-gate-design-photos-wood-driveway-gate-plans-iron-main-gate-designs-pakistani-farm-entry-gate-design-main-gate-design-catalogue-india-pdf-555x228.jpg
Reply:The gat wouldn't need be very stout if you use the track and rollers as it will be supported underneath in 2 places. The tracks I've used are flat strap with an angle iron welded down the middle and the wheels have a groove that fits on the angle. Wind doesn't really bother them very much. You can get gate rollers that are rubber, mush like a boat trailer roller. Where the gate leaves the driveway, I've used 3 pipes concreted in holes and welded the track on top of them and that has worked very well. You can see the track on this one I think.

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Reply:I'd take smithdoor's advice. I mean, he made big metal doors for a living.