Evolution Rage doesn't cut straight

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I just tested out my new Evo Rage 4 chop saw on some 1/8th x 2 inch flat stock. Each cut I made was not square. The bevel angle was off. However, the error is not consistent. Each cut I made, the top half may have been off by 1/8 of an inch, the bottom half was straight. Another cut , 2/3 was off the line. Also each cut has a sort of burr that sticks out on the end that is the length of the tooth.I can't see a way to adjust the bevel. The saw cuts smooth but maybe the blade is warping. I'm letting the saw do the work. The miter angle is fine at 90 degrees. Any idea? First time I've used a dry cut chop saw. I have a dry cut blade in my cordless circ saw and I'm getting similar results with that too. That's why I bought the Evo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Are you cutting it vertical, 2'' up  ? If flat , is the vise possibly riding up over the 1/8'' thickness ? Set a square on the table to verify if blade is 90 degrees to it in the vertical. If not you should be able to loosen the mounting bolts and a shim to correct it. As for the adjustable angle stop, do not go by the markings. Check for 90 with square from stop to lower blade.
Reply:If that's a 14" disc you may also consider a slightly thicker disc, they aren't all the same, and the amount of stiffness varies with brands. The more pressure you put on it, the more it will distort... until of course, it fails.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:When I had my evolution chop saw it didn't cut straight worth a damn either. Had to slot out the back stop to allow it to swing further back to get a square cut. I thought I had to do something else to it also, but can't recall what it was off the top of my head.The best day I ever had with any of the evolution saws I own is when I sold one of them.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I know there on a quality scale of harbor freight. I know better than to trust the factory calibration but all of my squares are too big to fit with the blade gaurd in the way. I'm going to fashion up something and check it. bD1I was cutting the flat stock standing on its side. Not facing down flat on the table. I am assuming that if the bevel angle was off, say 1 degree , then I should see the flat stock cut at a consistent angle. But if the miter clamp is off (which it is, I checked) (you were right, it needs to come out past its mark) then I would expect to just see a miter on the end but still a straight cut along the soap stone line. Unless I'm wrong. I may just go with another option. Like a portaband mounted on a hinge with a vice to hold the work. I don't know. I'll fiddle with this saw some moreSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:you have to clamp down the work really tight, some extra vice grips will help , the built in vise is typically ONLY good for square cuts once you start angling that is when cuts start getting pulled. its hard to picture exatyw what you are doing. i'd post some pics.
Reply:As stated, clamp stock tightly with extra clamps.  I suspect the material is creeping as you saw at angles other than 90.
Reply:Here is a video to help explain some things. I had trouble holding the phone one hand. Should have got my wife to help. Check out the final photo below which accurately shows the results. I can't tell from the video.


Reply:Your cut isn't all that bad, except for the notchy stuff.  I think you're expecting too much for the equipment you have.  There's built in error in the saw itself.I can achieve the same accuracy with a plain old chop saw with an abrasive blade.  Never saw the need to spend the bucks for that dry saw stuff.It's all about fitup anyways."Any day above ground is a good day"

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Reply:That's not too bad off square. But you could check to see if the saw table isn't bowing down some when you apply pressure to make the cut. It may be that you could use some reinforcement under it to compensate, if that is what it is doing. Get someone to make a cut for you while you closely watch the table for any bowing. That small of an amount though might not be real noticeable to the naked eye.
Reply:You should be cutting that flat, not on the edge.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:

This is the other piece
Reply:

Originally Posted by Broccoli1

You should be cutting that flat, not on the edge.
Reply:they should instead call that tool a metal separator. it is only good for making one piece of metal into two or more pieces. Prospective owners make the assumption chop saws will cut square but none of them do. Only after you make a handful of cuts do you realize the cut quality is a POS. For goodness sake, dont weld two 45's together without having some type of fixture to tell you what 45* is because you cannot rely on the mitre cut off a chop saw. Even my cold saw does not cut perfect when measured with precision tools. you have the loudest, filthiest and fugliest cutting tool made. the lowest of the low but it is what I started with, that and a 4.5" grinder and Millermatic 135. You just have to pickup where the chop saw leaves off.When i started out and used a chop saw, I scribed my cut line with a metal scribe and a speed square all around my entire cut. Made the cut with the chop saw then used a flap disc to shape the cut into a "true" square cut down to my scribe line. It sucks and it takes extra time but hey, you saved money. It is like a rite of passage to have to suffer a chop saw for a period of time. bravo!Last edited by Jimmy_pop; 05-11-2015 at 07:14 PM.
Reply:Thanks guys. The clamp made quite a difference. So the "notches" or jaggedness is normal? I don't expect a smooth end, just a straight end. I've seen abrasive saws making cuts that are square at least after the burrs are removed. I should be cutting in the flat face down orientation? I was going by what the manual said. For angle and square tubing as well, it says to clamp with the apex upLast edited by Seawalker; 05-11-2015 at 07:13 PM.
Reply:Check out this thread      http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ter&highlight=It looks like the vise jaws are pretty light duty, I would say your piece is moving giving you the jagged edge. It you have any light rubber (old inner tube) cut two pieces the size of you jaws and place them between the work piece and vise jaws that should help hold from slipping.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Jimmy_pop

they should instead call that tool a metal separator. it is only good for making one piece of metal into two or more pieces. Prospective owners make the assumption chop saws will cut square but none of them do. Only after you make a handful of cuts do you realize the cut quality is a POS. For goodness sake, dont weld two 45's together without having some type of fixture to tell you what 45* is because you cannot rely on the mitre cut off a chop saw. Even my cold saw does not cut perfect when measured with precision tools. you have the loudest, filthiest and fugliest cutting tool made. the lowest of the low but it is what I started with, that and a 4.5" grinder and Millermatic 135. You just have to pickup where the chop saw leaves off.When i started out and used a chop saw, I scribed my cut line with a metal scribe and a speed square all around my entire cut. Made the cut with the chop saw then used a flap disc to shape the cut into a "true" square cut down to my scribe line. It sucks and it takes extra time but hey, you saved money. It is like a rite of passage to have to suffer a chop saw for a period of time. bravo!
Reply:"Metal separator" ...huh. Would I be able to get more accurate cuts with a bandsaw? I am getting similar results with my Bosch 18v circ saw with a Oshlun blade. This saw does better with the clamp but not much betterSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Hmm mine cuts perfectly straight and smooth with no extra clamps.  I've cut everything from 3" stainless for a custom exhaust to 4" heavy wall square tube at 90 and 45 degrees.. Just leaves a 1/8" burr hang in on end of cut.  Guess I got lucky with a good one??
Reply:That is not bad. Considering getting a stationary belt sander like a 4''x 36'' or 6'' x 48''. They work really well and it is another tool you wonder why you didn't buy sooner.Did you try cutting thicker material , angle, or tube ?
Reply:

Originally Posted by toyman

Hmm mine cuts perfectly straight and smooth with no extra clamps.  I've cut everything from 3" stainless for a custom exhaust to 4" heavy wall square tube at 90 and 45 degrees.. Just leaves a 1/8" burr hang in on end of cut.  Guess I got lucky with a good one??
Reply:I figured out what's happening.. It's the vise shifting the work up to some degree when clamped. Here's a visual explanation of you want to watch. It's not as pronounced here as is normally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:You could hold saw down on material and tighten vise. It may help keep it from ridding up.
Reply:I tried holding it down but the force needed to hold it down is equal to the clamp force. It's easier with shorter pieces. The shoe on the end of the rod rocks up and down too and the stock goes with it. It's a pain in the ***. I made a dozen cuts or so. Could use a shim. Hopefully this will help someone else with this sawSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:IF YOU  are going to always be cutting small bar like that , just move the threaded nut part of the clamp forward 8 " and there will be a lot less slop in it.Good idea. I was thinking of adding another clamp but that is over engineering it. I figure I'll be cutting mostly one two two inch tube and at 45 degrees so I'll need some spaceSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I don't know how some don't get square or square enough cuts from abrasive saws or the dry cut carbide saws. All of mine cut square I have two abrasive and just got the Evo 380. Evo cut sqaure ou of the box...Miller Dynasty 200dxLincoln power mig 255Travel and comercial A/O rigsCheap 7"x14" horizontal bandsaw2 14" abrasion sawsDrill press. Arsenal of grinders/die grindersPower tools Hand tools
Reply:I know this is an old thread but im having a similar problem with my evolution saw as well. It cuts straight as far as the angle goes but from top to bottom the blades vertical axis is not 90 degrees ? Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust this to get it to 90 degrees ?

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Reply:It may not be the saw motor/blade assembly.  It might be the flimsy stamped base that is all out of whack. Mine is off by a little bit because the stamped steel is "sagging" in some spots.  So I have to sometimes sand down the cut edge just a smidge on the belt sander if I truly need it to be square all around.

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Reply:I have 2 EV saws. The worst is the orange accent slide miter saw. Machined aluminum base that really looks funny when you square it up for straight cuts. The chop saw version seems ok but both are pretty lame in the precision dept. Glad they were horse trades. I'd be pretty pissed to have paid for either.Thermal Arc 320SP ( Lorch )Cobra PythonsThermal Arc 300 AC/DC  ( Sanrex )ESAB 301i AC/DC  ( Lorch )Thermal Arc 161STL  ( WTL )Thermal Arc 190S  ( Sanrex )Cut Master 82, 42. Cut45 ( WTL )Victor Gas Apps.Boxes and boxes of welding crap.