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Steel Knockdown Target

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发表于 2022-2-9 15:52:19 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hello all, Was wondering if someone made a steel knockdown target. I think that would be a cool project to continue learning how to MIG weld. I'm currently working on my firepit, it's taking me a long damn time but I'm having fun and in no rush. I want to build something like this:

Was also thinking about trying to have the targets attached to something with a motor so I can raise the targets back up with some kind of remote. That may be getting way too ahead of myself but if I could make something like that I would be happier than a pig in poop. Looking at pics, it doesn't seem too complicated. I'll have to figure out what gun I'll be using (only have a Beretta 390 right now) to determine metal thickness required. Most likely I'll be shooting a Sig P365 and maybe pistol caliber 9mm carbine like the Hi-Point. Possibly, in the future, I may get into longer distance shooting with 6.5 Creedmoor most likely and the Howa 1500 rifle.

Reply:Whatever you make, I recommend AR500 plate. 3/8" thick for pistol targets and 1/2" thick for rifles. Our group has over 1,000 Lbs. of plates and that is the only stuff that holds up. I've seen 3/4" mild turned into swiss cheese in one weekend at 200yards with lots of .308 fire.  We do have a strongly enforced rule of no steel ammo too, and I will check your stuff to protect my investment.
Reply:Also, tip them slightly so that splatter will stay/go down rage and not be directed back as return fire!I have made a hanging stand with removable legs for transport…sorry no pics.  Not sure how to motorize them for return to position…but a rope line and reset frame may work if the whole setup is heavy enough or staked down so it doesn’t tip over.  The AR plate is needed too…as a .308 or bigger hits really carry a lot of energy and will just destroy anything less…ask me how I know.
Reply:Design a little clippy-thing that captures the disc when it’s knocked down, then make the last one down the release. You’re welcome to do this design in your own spare time…I would also angle the horizontal plate down to avoid the excitement of ricochets!Do not believe everything that you think.
Reply:It definitely has to be made of something like AR500 (abrasion resistant) steel or you will quickly get craters and craters are what cause dangerous shrapnel problems.The problem is that welding AR500 has to be done following a process or you'll lose the hardness it needs, and wind up with dents and even cracks at the welds.  Preheat, interpass temps, and the right filler all combine to do it properly.  Many target systems use a bolt to secure the plates to the rack mechanism.  Some have ears welded on (following the process) that a bolt runs through for a hinge.  I've been a competitive shooter for 35+ years and I've seen a lot of welded plate racks with all of the plates broken off, re-welded, broken again.Check out my bench vise website:  http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:I did the welding on some targets that flipped back up as well as some that turned for the local sheriffs office about 25 years ago. They used little air cylinders that were set up to work off of CO2. They had a bank of little valves that they could use to turn targets or flip up targets.
Reply:Now let's make thousands They will sell like hot cakes 🎂 in California. Dave

Originally Posted by Ambull01

Hello all, Was wondering if someone made a steel knockdown target. I think that would be a cool project to continue learning how to MIG weld. I'm currently working on my firepit, it's taking me a long damn time but I'm having fun and in no rush. I want to build something like this:

Was also thinking about trying to have the targets attached to something with a motor so I can raise the targets back up with some kind of remote. That may be getting way too ahead of myself but if I could make something like that I would be happier than a pig in poop. Looking at pics, it doesn't seem too complicated. I'll have to figure out what gun I'll be using (only have a Beretta 390 right now) to determine metal thickness required. Most likely I'll be shooting a Sig P365 and maybe pistol caliber 9mm carbine like the Hi-Point. Possibly, in the future, I may get into longer distance shooting with 6.5 Creedmoor most likely and the Howa 1500 rifle.
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