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Hello all, building a bench. Mig, .030, Handler 190, 75/25. First project with gas. Anybody willing to provide feedback on my welds?
Attached Images
Reply:Some fillers
Reply:For a welding bench,, I think the welds are perfection!!
Reply:Looks nice you got it goin on there tiggen. Looks like some nice lookin mig weldin there.
Reply:Heck of a lot nicer than my first mig welds! Looks great.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:Thanks, guys. Full disclosure, those were my best welds, not my average welds. Still having trouble with tie in on the four sides of the tube. These were made while pushing a looping movement I found that the a straight drag left a much taller weld bead no matter if I went normal speed or sped up. Even these seem to need a fair amount of grinding. I still wonder if I'm going to slow, but I am encouraged by your responses. We'll see if I got good penetration when I put the loaded tool box into the frame!Also, what is the brown stuff? It looks like a liquid right when I finish the weld, but then it solidifies quickly in the weld. Won't come off with the brush.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
Thanks, guys. Also, what is the brown stuff? It looks like a liquid right when I finish the weld, but then it solidifies quickly in the weld. Won't come off with the brush.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
Also, what is the brown stuff? It looks like a liquid right when I finish the weld, but then it solidifies quickly in the weld. Won't come off with the brush.
Reply:If you use 70S6 wire even with bright shiny material youre likely going to get silica islands.
Reply:Got one cradle done.
There were some good welds and some bad welds on that one. Every new position brings lot of learning. One more cradle to go, and then I'll work on my carpentry skills for the top.
Reply:boy ??? are you welding on that purdy floor ??? nice shop
Reply:so that's what a clean shop floor is supposed to look like...
The bench is coming along really nice, for a beginer welder your welds look good. The more you weld the better your welds improve.
Reply:Time for an update. Got a HF Vulcan helmet and a 1.5 cheater lens, and all I can say is why did I take so long. It's like seeing things for the first time. Here's the bench in its current state.
I have tacked that piece of angle to tie the two cradles together as well as give a place to screw the top onto, but before I weld it, I would like to hear your thoughts on bolting instead of welding the top on. The cradles are for two HF 44" roller boxes, and the top is gonna be two sheets of 3/4 plywood and a 12 ga cap. It's just over 12' long and prolly gonna be in 600-800 lbs range (empty boxes) when done. Bolting would make it possible to disassemble if I ever needed o move it.So, bolt or weld? If bolt, 3/8" 16 grade 5 enough? Bigger, fine thread, grade 8? There would be eight, one per vertical leg, washer, lock washer, nut, and blue lock tite. The bench would be used for assembly, cleaning, cutting stock, maybe some medium duty pounding on a vise, maybe some vibration from a bench grinder.
Reply:
Originally Posted by jniolon
boy ??? are you welding on that purdy floor ??? nice shop
Reply:I think I'd make the whole thing KD. You may want move it some day, or change the configuration as your needs change.It looks like it's going to be mostly the weight of the thing that holds it together. 1/4 coarse bolts would probably be ok. It cuts down the drilling effort too.Unless you intend to put side to side stress on the table top,, bolts should be fine. The bulk of the weight is held by the angle that will support the rollaway cabinets. Rollaways are fairly rigid, so I don't see them sucking the cradle down, and bowing the lower angle runners. The chest, itself, will transfer the weight to the corners. Remember, a rollaway is generally supported by casters...........so they're rigid over the width crosswise.
Reply:
Originally Posted by farmersammm
I think I'd make the whole thing KD.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
KD?Wish i'd listened to you on the 1/4" bolts. I thought the 3/8" heads and washers looked better size-wise, but man I paid for it in drilling time. Also, what about paint prep? I bought a bunch of these from Lehigh Valley - RD20NW-MED Are they the same as red Scotchbrite pads? And does all the mill scale need to come off before self-etching primer, or will a scuffed surface be enough?
Reply:Paint prep on steel that new is strictly limited to cleaning the steel with mineral spirits to remove the grease/oil/dirt.Playtex rubber gloves, like you use to do dishes, and a cheap natural bristle chip brush to paint the thinner on the metal. Wipe off with paper towels, and let it air out. All of this is best done outside.If you have spatter on the steel, it generally comes off when using a cup brush on a grinder. I, personally, see no need for an abrasive disc. Leave the welds untouched..........no reason to grind them.Last edited by farmersammm; 04-05-2021 at 05:14 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
Lol, it does look good, but man is it a pain to sweep! And I can't see anything, like small screws or metal chips. I'm worried one of my girls is gonna walk in here barefoot and walk out with some nasty splinters.
Reply:Top is made. Now just need to paint the frame, drop in the tool boxes, and reassemble. Will have a cap for the top bent out of 12ga.
Reply:test post
Reply:Tool cabinets fit! I know I shouldn't be this excited, but man this has been a long time coming. Basically just need to paint the frame and reassemble. Then waiting on 12 ga top. This is by far the biggest thing I've done to date. Been a great learning experience, esp finishing/paint as I see lots of mistakes, but still excited about seeing it come together. Might need to start thinking about next project.
Reply:top hasn't been on 15 minutes and crap is already accumulating on it !!
j
Reply:Its called FAFFirst available flat surfaceAnd it will not matter if you have all the tool boxes in the worldA good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:
Originally Posted by jniolon
top hasn't been on 15 minutes and crap is already accumulating on it !!
jWell, I've run into a slight problem that I would love to hear your input on. I planned on capping the top with 12 ga steel. Best price locally is $550 for the material, burning and bending to size. It would cost me another $80-90 to get it to my house. It comes to $19.22/sq ft. That's almost as much as I paid for both the tool boxes. Not complaining, if that's the cost so be it, but I'm not sure I'm willing for the surface to be the most expensive part of the build. Chalk it up to lesson learned.But...Is there another way?Given that it is fully supported by the plywood, would 14 ga be sufficient? That might save me some on cost of materials.Also, does a 12' length normally come at a premium over 8' length sheets? The cost of the 12' sheet is roughly $4.81/sq ft. If so, perhaps I could get two 4'x8' sheets, have them bent and seam weld them together (and have some extra 12 ga for the drilling cabinet/stand I want to make)?What if I did the seam welding? What are the chances that I'd scrap the whole thing? If I went (super) slow and spot welded the whole way, could it possibly be flat (after careful grinding)?
Reply:HRS, CRS, or SS ??? MIG TIG, or Stick ???Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:I don't have a big brake to bend metal with, so I either buy it sheared to the necessary shapes, or cut it myself with a dewalt 18v sheet metal shears .The shears are good to 14 ga CRS which is what I would recommend using. If you have a mig machine with shielding gas, some .030" 70-S6 wire, a 4 ft length of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angle aluminum , and 4 - 8 C-clamps , are all you need. There's a guy fitzee who has a pretty good video on how to set your mig welder to join sheetmetal, he is an old school hot rod guy, and makes good videos. the basic idea is to clamp the edges to the angle aluminum so you have a tight joint, and then stitch welding the joint 1" at a time , and then skipping a few inches, and then let it cool. Its okay to have the bead stick up a little bit , you can sand it smooth when all the welding is done .The angle aluminum will help hold together the weld, heip prevent blow through, and help reduce warpage . You may still get some or all three of those defects, but its a project, and because its metal its fixable. 14 gauge should be fine for a plywood topper. 16 gauge would be okay also, and probably easier to cut and bend by hand when making cabinets. I made the assumption you were making a 12ft x 4ft table when I made the drawing . if you needed something thicker as a temporary fix you could find a scrap plate of 1/4 HRS like 2 ft square to put on your table when needed.
HTHAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Looks great Dave
Originally Posted by tiggen
Hello all, building a bench. Mig, .030, Handler 190, 75/25. First project with gas. Anybody willing to provide feedback on my welds?Attachment 1726101Attachment 1726102Attachment 1726103Attachment 1726104
Reply:So things changed a little. I called the steel supply, and they said that it would be cheaper to do just two bends instead of four. I had them bend the long edges, and I'll have to cut the excess and weld on the short edges. Still gonna be 12 ga.My plan is the cut off the excess length (probably a grinder, maybe a friend's plasma cutter), cut two flat plates from the excess, then weld them on like @albrightree said w/ aluminum angle backer.
Also, I painted the drawer pulls to match the frame. I really don't like silver/chrome/shiny bits. (The crap continues to pile on!)
Next will be trying to get the mill scale off the cap. Vinegar? Scotch brite?
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
So things changed a little. I called the steel supply, and they said that it would be cheaper to do just two bends instead of four. I had them bend the long edges, and I'll have to cut the excess and weld on the short edges. Still gonna be 12 ga.Next will be trying to get the mill scale off the cap. Vinegar? Scotch brite?
Reply:I think that your bench is perfect as is.... for a working bench.In my opinion, a welding table should be all metal, sturdy and be accesible from all sides (not pinned against a wall) and allow to clamp stuff anywhere (either good overhang, made of space strap or solid top with hole pattern).I would suggest leaving your current bench as is and build a smaller table (3x3 feet for example) on casters (two of them locking) that fits the above characteristics.Mikel
Reply:Mikel is probably right on about leaving the wood top alone. If you cover it with metal you may want to tack or weld jig pieces to it and it will be pretty light to to much of that before it distorts. You may also have problems getting clamps onto this to secure work in place on the top (leading to tack welding jigs and fixtures). Additionally if it gets red hot from working on it the heat will be distributed thru to the wood top, maybe leave it smoldering. I have a 3' X 2' X 5/8" top tab;e that takes hammering, cutting, welding and other abuse with no problem. Put this on wheels and fit it into the opening you have there and don't take up any additional floor space
Reply:Well, unfortunately that ship sailed, guys. I do appreciate the feedback, though. My last bench was urethane coated wood top, which I liked, just wanted to do something different this time. I pick up the top today. If I don't like it, I'll cut it up to make a cabinet/stand for my drill press.
Reply:You might be better off with the back edge as a back splash to keep things from falling behind table(including sparks if you weld on it). I think you should wait to remove the mill scale except for the areas your welding. Most of my work benches have the original scale and very little rust. It doesn't chip, peel, or burn like paint. If you get some BB's stuck to it while welding, you can just sand them off. Good LuckAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Thanks for the continued ideas. I thought about a backsplash, but there is plenty of room under and around to get to things that drop. Won't be welding on it as I hope to have the plans/money for steel for a fab table by mid summer. Just wanted to try a metal bench.Finally got it installed, btw. (Sorry about all the crap on the floor, but it needed to be moved off the bench
...
). You can see the bow in the middle. It could be due to my crude wood working skills, or a mismatch in radii between internal bend of the metal and the 1/8" round router bit I used. Will try to weight it down or maybe flip it around to see if the back edge covers the front better. It's longer than the bench top as well, but not sure if I'll chop off the excess and weld the ends like I planned. Might just see how I like it for a while.
@albrightree, I think I will leave the scale on. Gonna wipe it down with acetone or mineral spirits to clean it, then maybe heat it up and rub some light oil. Thoughts?
Reply:
Originally Posted by tiggen
... It's longer than the bench top as well, but not sure if I'll chop off the excess and weld the ends like I planned. Might just see how I like it for a while...
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mikel_24
Don't leave it like that. There is a chance you could cut yourself severely with that sharp downward pointing corner AND exposed edge. I would suggest you trim it to be flush with the wooden top.Mikel
Reply:Didn't you pay extra to have the table made that long ? I would add wood at the very least, no reason to cut that beautiful metal unless the table doesn't fit somewhere. I think you should weld the end caps on with mig, tack weld it on , and then stitch it together. Then you can finish grind, and sand smooth, paying extra attention to the sharper corners.
There is never enough table top in a workshop.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Agree with albrightree - keep the overhang. deburr the edge and round off the sharp corners- - then fit a piece of wood underneath it and screw it in from the front vertical face and back end - so that the edge lines up with the steel - provides support and removes the chance of slicing your finger/leg on the edge. Also - the overhang may just come in handy as a clamping location - might even drill a hole through from the top for - whatever need you might find....a lot of possibility - agree that you want to address the open end of steel though - but might not need to cut it off to do that.... nice bench! |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:17:57