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I've moved on for now from the hydraulic press... So onto the next shiny object i can throw money at. I'm tired of changing belts and I drill a pretty good amount of holes. Is it worth the investment into something like this? My current drill press is actually harbor freights "production"
drill press and its actually been wonderful for the cost but i think something more versatile may be beneficial. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...ll-Press/G0779I'm not only looking at grizzly but I have bought their stuff in the past and been very happy with it. It seems to be similar to the bandsaws where every china company makes their own rendition of it from the same factory.www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:We have Fosdick at work.. several of them... by several I mean closer to 100 or more. I love them especially with the taping and self drill settings With those gang drills and a couple of radial arm drills you can reduce mill time to almost nothing. But to answer your question I prefer geared driving presses. Just my $.02.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:I would look for something with power feed if I was looking to spend that kind of money. On a drill press I would look for something used, even if 3 phase and use a converter. Most industrial drill presses are so overbuilt that they usually are in decent shape. Obviously check it out for a bent spindle or excessive bearing run-out but other than that they are usually good to go.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
I would look for something with power feed if I was looking to spend that kind of money. On a drill press I would look for something used, even if 3 phase and use a converter. Most industrial drill presses are so overbuilt that they usually are in decent shape. Obviously check it out for a bent spindle or excessive bearing run-out but other than that they are usually good to go.
Reply:No second hand good ol american drills around?I have a new-ish Arboga geared head 3MT, 8 speed (2 speed motor) and its OK built, should be swedish quality, but not as rigid as my brother's ancient old Pollard 4 speed 2MT, which is a bit rubbish because you get a bit of run-out and vibration using annular cutters on it.I'd swap it in a heartbeat for a 3MT Pollard.
Reply:I've used that geared Grizzly drill. I thought it was very nice and wouldn't have minded owning it
Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:there are 2 suggestion for other ways to do speed changes. One change the motor to 3 PH and use a single PH VFD to convert the drive to standard power. The other is a manual speed change using a lever, there are a few different assemblies to do this one shown here and another using a secondary shaft with a mower speed change assembly (John Deere has them check eBay).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logohttps://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-...kAAOSwPuVdl2d~Last edited by acourtjester; 04-29-2020 at 09:15 AM.DIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:Perhaps for what your looking to accomplish a magnetic drill with some jigs or fixtures may be better suited to what you do. Using annular cutters would make putting in large holes a one shot operation. It wouldn't entirely replace a drill press but would probably make hole making easier on your larger parts.
Reply:Have a mag drill as well already.Also have rotobroaches for the drill press.
Reply:I know it is more money but I would hands down take the Grizzly G0808 gearhead drill press. For the extra money you are getting a very versatile machine. If space is a concern you would be hard pressed to get anything that can do what the G0808 can do. The other 2 are nice but the G0808 is it!https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...de-Table/G0808I looked at them again the G0808 to my dismay does not have power quill. Of the 3 I would take the G0751 with the 4 speed power quill. When I went to the grizzly site they had it on sale for $2795. That is a good buy. On sale till the end of the month!Last edited by thegary; 04-29-2020 at 12:23 PM.
Reply:They have an R8 spindal that is good and bad. You might want to buy an R8 to #3 mores tapper adapter and a set of R8 collets when you get the machine.
Reply:Here is the ultimate drill press grizzly makes. It does not do any milling but power feeds and power taps and has a #4 MT spindal . https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...-L-Table/G0793. If you have the room to get a milling machine later on or have no need of the milling table this is a very good drill press. I forgot to make sure it is single phase so check that but as long as it is single phase this press can do most anything short of what a radial drill can do but also has a few features a radial drill does not have like the power taping.I looked again and it is 220V 3 phase. It might be worth getting a converter but at $3895 to add a converter to the cost is starting to get up there. Too bad because that is a great little drill press. I have a phase perfect 3 phase converter so It would not be problem for me. Too bad I am too old to really utilize it . If I got rich I would still get it though just for hobby work.Last edited by thegary; 04-29-2020 at 01:38 PM.
Reply:Gear head drill presses are nice and tend to have slower speeds for bigger bits. Of coarse the ultimate is a radial arm drill press but they are a lot of money. Power feed is a nice feature but not essential.
Reply:Curious other than tapping what are some benefits to power feed? Also what are the cons to an R8 spindle?A $4000, 1000lb drill is a bit out of my league/needs i think as cool as it is.I really just want the variable speed for the most part and the shorter head design that pushes further against the wall. This sale that saves me $200 in freight ends tomorrow so if IÂm gonna make a decision i need to make it fairly quick.
Reply:Actually you do not need or want power quill for taping. The smaller tapes( 1/2' and less) you need a taping head like I sold to you a few years ago. The power quill isnice for all drilling of any type including annular cutters. For larger taps like 5/8 to 7/8 you want a mores taper adapter that has the square tap drive. The threads on the tap will auto feed it. You need instant reverse though and I do not know that that is possible except with a 3 phase motor.The drawback to the R8 spindal it that it is slower to replace drill bits than with a mores tapper. The good is that with the R8 there is no way a tool can just fall out . They do make a quick change driver for R8 . It is basically a 3/8 air impact on a plate that slides up and down that is mounted to the top of the head. A poor mans quick change would be just a hand held 3/8 impact with a deep well socket on it. Keep it set up next to the machine. The machine should have a spindlebrake on it to lock the spindle while releasing the collet with the draw bar. You will also want a brass hammer to give the spindle a wack to pop the collet loose.
Reply:Actually you do not need or want power quill for taping. The smaller taps( 1/2' and less) you need a taping head like I sold to you a few years ago. The power quill is nice for all drilling of any type including annular cutters. For larger taps like 5/8 to 7/8 you want a mores taper adapter that has the square tap drive. The threads on the tap will auto feed it. You need instant reverse though and I do not know that that is possible except with a 3 phase motor.The drawback to the R8 spindle is that it is slower to replace drill bits than with a mores tapper. The good is that with the R8 there is no way a tool can just fall out . They do make a quick change driver for R8 . It is basically a 3/8 air impact on a plate that slides up and down that is mounted to the top of the head. A poor mans quick change would be just a hand held 3/8 impact with a deep well socket on it. Keep it set up next to the machine. The machine should have a spindlebrake on it to lock the spindle while releasing the collet with the draw bar. You will also want a brass hammer to give the spindle a wack to pop the collet loose. Make sure and keep 3-4 threads engaged when you give the drawbar a tap with the mallet or you will damage the collet and the drawbar.Last edited by thegary; 04-29-2020 at 04:55 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by thegary
Actually you do not need or want power quill for taping. The smaller tapes( 1/2' and less) you need a taping head like I sold to you a few years ago. The power quill is nice for all drilling of any type including annular cutters. For larger taps like 5/8 to 7/8 you want a mores taper adapter that has the square tap drive. The threads on the tap will auto feed it. You need instant reverse though and I do not know that that is possible except with a 3 phase motor.The drawback to the R8 spindle it that it is slower to replace drill bits than with a mores tapper. The good is that with the R8 there is no way a tool can just fall out . They do make a quick change driver for R8 . It is basically a 3/8 air impact on a plate that slides up and down that is mounted to the top of the head. A poor mans quick change would be just a hand held 3/8 impact with a deep well socket on it. Keep it set up next to the machine. The machine should have a spindlebrake on it to lock the spindle while releasing the collet with the draw bar. You will also want a brass hammer to give the spindle a wack to pop the collet loose.
Reply:The only way you would break an annular cutter with a drill press is if you used too much feed pressure. Where power quill is nice is when you have a lot of parts to do and it takes all the work out of it. The power quill should have some kind of a trip mechanisem . that will turn off the power quill . You set it so that if you are distracted and or not paying attention it trips out at the end of the drilling or milling stroke.I use annular cutters in my drill press all the time. The problem with most drill presses is that they run too fast of rpm and the belts slip when using annular cutters. They make an r8 to annular cutter adaper or you can just use a straight shank annular cutter adapter in an R8 collet. With the gearhead you will have no belts to slip and the gearhead also goes slower rpm.Just set the rpms at about the same rpm as your mag drill runs them.
Reply:So if we summed it up to i dont fully need power feed, would you think this was a good decision for my needs? Id be paying a large premium essentially to have power feed as the only real option for the money that i need. ($800-2000) I wish the $2800 hybrid mill drill thing they sell had a bigger table because that would be ideal with everything. Im in a very tiny shop so the gear head being able to go flat to the wall vs my standard press is also a nice change.
Reply:
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
So if we summed it up to i don’t fully need power feed, would you think this was a good decision for my needs? I’d be paying a large premium essentially to have power feed as the only real option for the money that i need. ($800-2000) I wish the $2800 hybrid mill drill thing they sell had a bigger table because that would be ideal with everything. I’m in a very tiny shop so the gear head being able to go flat to the wall vs my standard press is also a nice change.
Reply:If you later did want a mill table you could buy one later to use with drill press that would just bolt to the existing drill press table.
Reply:This is the one I was referring to. But for drilling anything over the size of the table i see it being a huge pain. Though it does have power quill feed.$2795 with $25 shipping until tomorrow.
So you're saying if I wanted to actually do some light manual milling with $2200 one I was looking at, it would be possible with an add on table? Would the actual column mount of the table even be rigid enough to handle that?I think I am fairly sold on the original one without the power feed, as nice as it would be to have I don't see myself using it too often for the added cost.This one, to keep reference accurate ($2145 with $25 shipping until tomorrow)
Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 04-29-2020 at 07:00 PM.www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:Power down feed is especially nice to have for drilling thicker plate so your not cranking on the handle. If you need to make large holes to a precise size you would use a boring head which will perform best with power feed. Once you've used power feed you wouldn't want to be without it. At any rate that's up to you to decide, but having a good heavy table is probably the most important thing. Whether your using a vise, a fence or hold down clamps it all starts with a rigid base that you can easily clamp to such as tee slots.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Munkul
No second hand good ol american drills around?I have a new-ish Arboga geared head 3MT, 8 speed (2 speed motor) and its OK built, should be swedish quality, but not as rigid as my brother's ancient old Pollard 4 speed 2MT, which is a bit rubbish because you get a bit of run-out and vibration using annular cutters on it.I'd swap it in a heartbeat for a 3MT Pollard.
Reply:Here south central KS... there is an auction with a 4 headed gang drill... old school probably 3 phase but definitely worth its weight in gold to the right person... only like $150 is the bid.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. MacHeres what im working with to give you some perspective.... If I had the space I would realistically just have 2-3 drills set up at different speeds at all times3 phase is out. As is having a wide milling table.The gear head also allows me to push the drill back a good 6 inches to the wall.Torn what to do here, I want to pull the trigger on something tomorrow.
Originally Posted by M J D
Power down feed is especially nice to have for drilling thicker plate so your not cranking on the handle. If you need to make large holes to a precise size you would use a boring head which will perform best with power feed. Once you've used power feed you wouldn't want to be without it. At any rate that's up to you to decide, but having a good heavy table is probably the most important thing. Whether your using a vise, a fence or hold down clamps it all starts with a rigid base that you can easily clamp to such as tee slots.
Reply:I get small work space...I get no 3 phase... but if I had the need and the space I would get a radial arm drill.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
This is the one I was referring to. But for drilling anything over the size of the table i see it being a huge pain. Though it does have power quill feed.$2795 with $25 shipping until tomorrow.Attachment 1710944So you're saying if I wanted to actually do some light manual milling with $2200 one I was looking at, it would be possible with an add on table? Would the actual column mount of the table even be rigid enough to handle that?I think I am fairly sold on the original one without the power feed, as nice as it would be to have I don't see myself using it too often for the added cost.This one, to keep reference accurate ($2145 with $25 shipping until tomorrow)Attachment 1710943
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mac's Crew
I get small work space...I get no 3 phase... but if I had the need and the space I would get a radial arm drill.Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Mac's Crew
I get small work space...I get no 3 phase... but if I had the need and the space I would get a radial arm drill.Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
Heres what im working with to give you some perspective.... If I had the space I would realistically just have 2-3 drills set up at different speeds at all times3 phase is out. As is having a wide milling table.The gear head also allows me to push the drill back a good 6 inches to the wall.Torn what to do here, I want to pull the trigger on something tomorrow.
I would definitely love to have it, and would find reasons to use it but do you think i will regret not having it when I mostly drill 1/4" steel and 1/8" tubing? I can't see ever using a boring head if I can just use annular cutters. The difference to get power down feed is basically over $1000, increasing the cost of the drill by 50%. I don't want to make a purchase I regret, but ultimately either tool is going to pay for itself. I am just fed up with changing belts. As a one man assembly line it really gets old.
Reply:
Originally Posted by thegary
Very nice little shop . You got a lot into a small space. I wish my shop was that clean!PS; you should be able to recoup 3-$400 for your old drill press too.
Reply:
Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest
Heres what im working with to give you some perspective.... If I had the space I would realistically just have 2-3 drills set up at different speeds at all times3 phase is out. As is having a wide milling table.The gear head also allows me to push the drill back a good 6 inches to the wall.Torn what to do here, I want to pull the trigger on something tomorrow.
I would definitely love to have it, and would find reasons to use it but do you think i will regret not having it when I mostly drill 1/4" steel and 1/8" tubing? I can't see ever using a boring head if I can just use annular cutters. The difference to get power down feed is basically over $1000, increasing the cost of the drill by 50%. I don't want to make a purchase I regret, but ultimately either tool is going to pay for itself. I am just fed up with changing belts. As a one man assembly line it really gets old.
Reply:Well... I hit the button.Always forget about tax and lift gate fee.
$2400 total.www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:You will be pleased with it.
Reply:You will like any improvement.. as and a new shiney toy too.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:I'm sure it will work out good for you. That's a good size motor so you shouldn't have any issue with enough power.
Reply:That looks like a nice press up front there. I was reading your other thread about it too. What brand/type/size is it? i could really use a press...-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:Congrats on the purchase of the geared head drill. Once you get it in, post a review. I have been looking at the exact same two drills for where I work. Saving money by getting the one you bought should make it easier to convince them to buy one.Millermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by davec
That looks like a nice press up front there. I was reading your other thread about it too. What brand/type/size is it? i could really use a press...
Reply:Any recommendations for a good quality keyless chuck?In the past i have used $50ish ones from amazon and the bit always slips so i went back to keyed. Is this just nature of the beast with keyless chucks or was it a trash chuck? Found a Weldon to R8 adapter as well.
Reply:Precision and price range... Jacob's chucks are ok... Albrech is superior but you are paying for it up front too. Both can be purchased with the proper taper for your machine. I prefer Albrech but wasn't forced to pay for them out of pocket. Working as the shop machinist then getting laid off and having them given to you that way sucks but.. it is cheaper... 1/2, 3/8, and the microchuck were donated to my cause that way. Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:The drill comes with an R8 to MT3 spindle adapter as well. I dont need anything crazy, but Is slippage common on keyless chucks?
Reply:Speeds and feeds... how sharp is the bit... ect... anything can slip ... I wouldn't tap in a keyless chuck but I will in my Jacob's chucks that are keyed. I have the opportunity to step out to almost any drill size at work... at home 5/8 is the largest common size I use. If I need larger than that I can get it done, but have to determine the best way for the equipment I have. Sometimes a hole saw is the way... it all depends on the situation of course. Accupro is another decent choice for keyless... I forgot about them in my prior post partner at work uses them at home.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:I have a few keyless chucks both Albrecht and Jacobs for my drill press and my Bridgeport mill. For light drilling they are great but when I am drilling large holes and pushing the drills hard, invariably, I need a strap clamp to release the drill bit from the chuck. In the end, I find I use the keyed chucks more often.That's just my $.02.Congrats on the new press..
Reply:From what I know of keyless chucks, they were designed for speed and precision, but not heavy-duty use. The have a tendency to self-tighten which can cause damage. Not suited for use with a big hole saw or oversized drills. Rohm makes some economical chucks.I'd like to have a radial drill.
"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:I worked in a shop that had a smaller Cincinnati Bickford Super Service Radial drill. It was a productive drill. Most functions were by push button and it had a quick change chuck where you didn't have to stop to change from a centering head to the drill bit. The operator just pushed up and the tool came out. I'd run a smaller radial but that one was cool. They set up large V blocks to drill smaller vessels up to about 5' diameter. I have a book on the history of Bucyrus Erie and there is a pic. of a Carlton Radial arm drill with a 12' arm and 26" column. Just like above the operator has to stand on the piece being drilled. They also had gear cutters up to 24' diameter and 4' face width!Last edited by Welder Dave; 04-30-2020 at 03:57 PM.
Reply:Carlton was the premium drill back in the day. And Cinci-Bickford was right up there."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:We still have two pretty decent sized radial arm drills at work. Both No.5 morse taper, one is an Asquith and the other a Kitchen & Wade. The Asquith is getting a bit long in the tooth, still a good machine but the controls are worn heavily from use. The K&W is solid but just had a full new set of electrical controls - the mechanical contactors had given up.The K&W is a beautifully made machine, simple, elegant and powerful.At one point before annular cutters came on the scene, those two drills pretty much drilled every steelwork hole in the entire factory.Last edited by Munkul; 04-30-2020 at 05:17 PM.
Reply:I saw a Carlton at a used machinery dealer and he said the same that Carlton was the cream of the crop. I think a lot of those old machines were extremely well built. That's one of the sad things that is gone. Kearney & Trekker used to be the largest factory for producing milling machines in the world. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:17:42