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I have a Miller Dialarc HF I believe its around 1975 anyway there are 2 problems1 I think the Amperage is way off seem like I have it set way higher than needed for a particular rod, example 7018 1/8" I need it on mid range (40--190) at 80% if I do the math that's around 170 amps or I run on High(125--310) with 20% again math shows to be 160 amps so that's the first problem.2 If I run the Dial up around 90% it will trip the panel breaker I have also had it trip on me when using A/C while using the tig on foot pedal don't remember what I had for settingsAnyway is the amp range that far off on these and what could be tripping the breaker on the panel? Other than that the machine works perfect I use it a lot for tig Alum A/C sometimes steel D/C - and all the time with stick D/C+Thanks Joe
Reply:Sure she isn't set for 208?HammerFile Big Hammer------------------------------Here, let me Google that for you...
Reply:I will have to check should be 230 correct I have the manual and it shows the jumpers should be in the center for 230 instead of the out side for 208? I will check it tomorrow when I am at the shop.Thanks
Reply:If your jumpers are correct check incoming voltage. It sounds like you might have a bad diode. My Airco Heliarc 250 (Dailarc clone) all of the sudden was down on power and then started tripping the breaker. It turned out to be a bad diode.
Reply:Well I pulled the cover off and checked the the jumpers and they are set correctly for 230 VI then tested the incoming Voltage and it is ok, one leg 114 and the other 120 across both legs I had 234 so I don't believe that is a problem. All connections were sound and clean.So I blew everything out while I had the cover off some dirt but not real bad.Next I ran some 7018 1/8 with the range in the middle and dial at 80% about 10 rods then I moved up to 90% and the breaker tripped after running a rod or as soon as I touched the second rod not sure but it was tripped, reset it and it tripped as soon as I went to start a rod .I didn't mess with it any further just waited a few minutes and shut it down.If I run it on selector high and say 30% it wont trip I can run it for hours no problemSo were would I look for a bad diode or any other thoughts?
Reply:I must have missed it, what is the breaker rated at?Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:The breaker on the front of the welder panel little push button one not the circuit breaker in the panel of the shop sorry I should have made that more clear, but I have no idea what it is rated at, wen it is tripped it only takes out the reastat (dial)so there is still an arc when it trips just the minimum of the lever setting (40-190 would have 40) that's what is says in the manual As mentioned above the welder works great just seems off on the amperage and trips this panel breaker when the reastat is around 90% or aboveLast edited by JPS; 03-18-2013 at 07:38 PM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by JPS
The breaker on the front of the welder panel little push button one not the circuit breaker in the panel of the shop sorry I should have made that more clear, but I have no idea what it is rated at, wen it is tripped it only takes out the reastat (dial)so there is still an arc when it trips just the minimum of the lever setting (40-190 would have 40) that's what is says in the manual As mentioned above the welder works great just seems off on the amperage and trips this panel breaker when the reastat is around 90% or above
Reply:I have a question? When your welding are you getting any heat or warming in the cables on either AC or DC, or any heat in the stinger or ground after welding for awhile. Sometimes the push button breaker will trip if the welder is building up resistance in the welding leads. Resistance is caused from corroded cables.If I were you I would peal back some of the insulation on the cables and if the copper isn't nice and shiny the leads need to be replaced. I'm betting the copper is dark looking.That might not be your problem but that's where I would look first.Also what size wire and breaker is the circuit? Good luck
Originally Posted by JPS
I have a Miller Dialarc HF I believe its around 1975 anyway there are 2 problems1 I think the Amperage is way off seem like I have it set way higher than needed for a particular rod, example 7018 1/8" I need it on mid range (40--190) at 80% if I do the math that's around 170 amps or I run on High(125--310) with 20% again math shows to be 160 amps so that's the first problem.2 If I run the Dial up around 90% it will trip the panel breaker I have also had it trip on me when using A/C while using the tig on foot pedal don't remember what I had for settingsAnyway is the amp range that far off on these and what could be tripping the breaker on the panel? Other than that the machine works perfect I use it a lot for tig Alum A/C sometimes steel D/C - and all the time with stick D/C+Thanks Joe
Reply:Thank you for the suggestionsAs to the cables heating up they don't appear to haven't noticed them being warm I offten wrap them up a couple minutes aftetr welding and have never noticed them being hot also a lot of the time the stinger lead is laying over my leg or arm and have never felt anything, the copper lead at the ground clamp is good in color, the stinger is on a Tweeco and the Tweeco is good the rest I will have to take a peak at.I believe the wire connected to the welder is #8 it runs about 6-8 ft then plugs into the service line those i will have to check for size however I have never tripped the breaker in the electric panel or noticed any thing dimming with the welder running. The leads are about 25' long so not a problem there.Can i test the leads with an Ohm meter I am thinking it may be the welder panel breaker is bad but again it only tripps when the reastat is up at 90% or above at least on DCCould the Reastat be bad or have issues up at the top end? Maybe I should look at it and at least blow it out. Is there specs for testing it? Maybe that could be Bad and that is why the Amps seem so far off as well? If I were to get a clamp over DC amp meter would that be an accurate way of testing the amp out put while welding?Last edited by JPS; 03-23-2013 at 08:59 AM.
Reply:BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE WELDER. I don't want you toasted while working on your welder.What makes me suspicious is when you say you have to turn up the amperage higher than normal. That tells me the welder is sending the correct current out but it can't get through and is building up resistance. After awhile the resistance will create heat and trip the breaker. I would check all connections and focus on the stinger, leads or ground clamp if I were you.It could also be the rheostat. If the rheostat is an open one the contacts might be dirty. I know there is contact spray in a can but don't know if it will work on your welder. Proceed with caution and MAKE SURE THE WELDER IS UNPLUGGED.Another thing to try is turn on the welder to 125 amps and burn 12 or 15 1/8th rods of 7014 or 7018 without stopping. If the stinger gets warm it's building up resistances.I bought an old welder from a guy for $15.00 that would trip the breaker after burning half a dozen rods. I noticed the stinger was getting hot so I made up new 25 foot leads, replaced the stinger and ground clamp, and the old welder worked beautifully. Resistance is like a garden hose, When you restrict the hose in a place the pressure starts to build up. In a electrical situation the restriction will create heat and trip a breaker. That's what the breaker is suppose to do so the wire doesn't melt.You can test the resistance of the leads by hooking up both ends to an olm meter. Every wire has a resistance and the resistance will increase with length. Even good wire will have some resistance, I don't know what the specs are for your size leads.Hope you can find out what the problem is. Last time I took my welder to the repair place it was $100.00 an hour for labor not including parts.Good luck.Last edited by kctgb; 03-23-2013 at 10:12 AM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by JPS
Thank you for the suggestionsAs to the cables heating up they don't appear to haven't noticed them being warm I offten wrap them up a couple minutes aftetr welding and have never noticed them being hot also a lot of the time the stinger lead is laying over my leg or arm and have never felt anything, the copper lead at the ground clamp is good in color, the stinger is on a Tweeco and the Tweeco is good the rest I will have to take a peak at.I believe the wire connected to the welder is #8 it runs about 6-8 ft then plugs into the service line those i will have to check for size however I have never tripped the breaker in the electric panel or noticed any thing dimming with the welder running. The leads are about 25' long so not a problem there.Can i test the leads with an Ohm meter I am thinking it may be the welder panel breaker is bad but again it only tripps when the reastat is up at 90% or above at least on DCCould the Reastat be bad or have issues up at the top end? Maybe I should look at it and at least blow it out. Is there specs for testing it? Maybe that could be Bad and that is why the Amps seem so far off as well? If I were to get a clamp over DC amp meter would that be an accurate way of testing the amp out put while welding?
Reply:When I got to the shop this afternoon I checked the Voltage at the lug on the welder and at the end of the stinger it was with 1v of each other.I ran quite a few 7018 1/8" and the temp from the lug to the stinger was within 5 deg and the temp at the stinger was 71 deg F the ground was the same at the lug and the clamp. I then ran a couple of 3g coupons and then checked all the cords leads ect with my hands and all were cold to the touch, felt the panel cover around the rheostat and no feeling of heat there either.This whole is nothing new it has been this way sense I bought it10+ plus years ago, I will just continue to deal with it
Reply:
Originally Posted by JPS
When I got to the shop this afternoon I checked the Voltage at the lug on the welder and at the end of the stinger it was with 1v of each other.I ran quite a few 7018 1/8" and the temp from the lug to the stinger was within 5 deg and the temp at the stinger was 71 deg F the ground was the same at the lug and the clamp. I then ran a couple of 3g coupons and then checked all the cords leads ect with my hands and all were cold to the touch, felt the panel cover around the rheostat and no feeling of heat there either.This whole is nothing new it has been this way sense I bought it10+ plus years ago, I will just continue to deal with it
Reply:I have a Dialarc HF and the control circuit overload breaker trips when i turn the power on. Any suggestions? |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:16:57