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Hi, I have a Bench Vise Rehab going.The inner ring, for the swivel feature was broken when I bought the vise.Machined the space flat and made a new inner ring.This is what the tightening bolt pulls against when tightened in position.The vise is cast Iron and the ring is steel.I have Stick and a Mig with LincolnWeld L-56 wire.I also have some of the nickel cast iron stick, made for cast iron.The quesion is how would you guys weld this, needs to be strong of course!
Reply:I think a nickel alloy will be the correct choice, but I'm just a hobbyist, some of the pros will probably chime in. Best of luck with it. It could also be brazed if you have the equipment & knowledge.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didnt pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:The most important on welding cast iron or cast iron to steel is per heat and very slow cooling. I have welded with mig , 7018, nickel cast iron rod and brassing they all work with per heat and slow cooling.Dave
Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, I have a Bench Vise Rehab going.The inner ring, for the swivel feature was broken when I bought the vise.Machined the space flat and made a new inner ring.This is what the tightening bolt pulls against when tightened in position.The vise is cast Iron and the ring is steel.I have Stick and a Mig with LincolnWeld L-56 wire.I also have some of the nickel cast iron stick, made for cast iron.The quesion is how would you guys weld this, needs to be strong of course!
Reply:Are you sure it's not cast steel? Some used cast steel and it can be hard to tell.I really like the UTP brand 85FN rods for cast iron. It requires no preheat or post heat and has always worked on every job I've used them on.
Reply:
Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, I have a Bench Vise Rehab going.The inner ring, for the swivel feature was broken when I bought the vise.Machined the space flat and made a new inner ring.This is what the tightening bolt pulls against when tightened in position.The vise is cast Iron and the ring is steel.I have Stick and a Mig with LincolnWeld L-56 wire.I also have some of the nickel cast iron stick, made for cast iron.The quesion is how would you guys weld this, needs to be strong of course!
Reply:Hi, Here is a couple of pics.Most of the inner ring was gone when I opened her up.Put the base on the Bridgeport and milled down to the depth of the bottom of the outside ring so...When the new inner ring sets on the are even for the tightener to bear on.After welding will fly cut the top of the new ring so it it even with the top.See no reason it will not work if I can get a strong weld?Maybe to much work for an old beat up vice but, I feel I should try.Hate to just weld the two halves together and call it a day.Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions!!!
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Reply:Good pics. That is going to work great. If it were me I would braze it. Wrap it it fiberglass insulation when its still real hot and you should be okay. If you have any ceramic wool the would be even better. Good Luck.
Reply:Probably not critical. But will you finish machining after attachment? If already finished. Then brazing is the way i would go. I think welding might cause some distortion.How did that break? Is it higher than the surounding.
Reply:Hi, Thanks, wouldn't the nickle rod be stronger than braze?I have some ENi-CI 99 Nickel Rod that has worked very well in the past, on a cast iron, to cast iron, weld, on a 60 year old Wellsaw.Admittedly, someone abused this vise but, looking for the strongest joint!
Reply:Hi, Yes, as I stated, the top of the ring will have to be machined down to the level of the out side ring...So everything is flat for the top, then I have to fabricate the tightening device.A lot of work for an old vice, but I need it on one of my workbenches.It is of course more useful keeping the swivel function.Here is a pic of my main vise a Starrett, that I bought for $75 from a closing welding shop, years ago!
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Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, Thanks, wouldn't the nickle rod be stronger than braze?I have some ENi-CI 99 Nickel Rod that has worked very well in the past, on a cast iron, to cast iron, weld, on a 60 year old Wellsaw.Admittedly, someone abused this vise but, looking for the strongest joint!
Reply:Hi, When I was a boy, on the farm in Georgia, all the tractor radiators, had green spots on them.The reason was that the Farmer had fixed a leak with a penny.They would find the pin hole leak, sand it, sand a penny, then take some flux off of a welding electrode...Put it all together and heat it with Oxy-Act.!Wasn't pretty, but worked, and no money lay out for a new radiator!I can braze but think now I will tack it with my mig, then heat it and weld with the nickle.Peen it, and when finished heat it again and wrap it in some K-Wool I have and hope for the best?
Reply:Wow! I had a 66 mustang with twenty cents on the gas tank. I don't know if you could do the now without copper pennies.
Reply:Hi, Well, this is what I came up with.I have a 1980's Miller Dialarc 250 to stick weld with and went to use it, and...It started humming and tripped the breaker!Good timing on that, but I have more projects, so just welded this with the Mig.Heated it up good on top of some K-Wool and welded it.After I covered with the wool and let it cool off.Took it to the Mill and evened the top, not taking any more than I have to.The inner ring on the bottom and top are now flat and even with the outer ring and should work.Still have to make the tightening assembly, because it only came with an old bolt they were using.I'm not a Welder or a Machinist, just having fun in the shop, but I think the repair is solid and will last anyway!Thanks again for the help!!!
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Reply:I bought a broken floor drill press from a crappy tool store I think was the pre-Harbor Freight days. Back when junk from china got its bad reputation. The machine had gotten knocked over and broke the collar where the table is mounted to the post. The broken cast pieces had been tossed before I bought it. Was reduced to $75. Took it home and wrapped a couple layers of flat stock around collar and welded it with ????? whatever rod was in the stinger at that moment. Still holding after 20+ years.
Last edited by bead-boy; 03-10-2021 at 05:43 PM.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:Hi, Good job and that's a tensioned part!I think I'm good, this Rock Island vice, was put trough the wringer, and it's taking me days just to get the caked on dirt and grease out of it!
Reply:Like gender profiling it's all in the spark output. 312 will be OK
Reply:
Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, Well, this is what I came up with.I have a 1980's Miller Dialarc 250 to stick weld with and went to use it, and...It started humming and tripped the breaker!Good timing on that, but I have more projects, so just welded this with the Mig.Heated it up good on top of some K-Wool and welded it.After I covered with the wool and let it cool off.Took it to the Mill and evened the top, not taking any more than I have to.The inner ring on the bottom and top are now flat and even with the outer ring and should work.Still have to make the tightening assembly, because it only came with an old bolt they were using.I'm not a Welder or a Machinist, just having fun in the shop, but I think the repair is solid and will last anyway!Thanks again for the help!!!
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Originally Posted by Bonzoo
Like gender profiling it's all in the spark output. 312 will be OK
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Originally Posted by G-ManBart
The lack of the inner wedge is probably what caused the damage. If they just had a bolt in their upside down it wouldn't have had nearly the necessary surface area to spread the load out properly. For that size vise you'd want something probably 1.5 to 2" long and just slightly smaller than the inside gap. A good guide is that it should just barely fit through the rectangular hole in the base.With a proper wedge it should hold up nicely!
Reply:Hi, G-ManBart, this Rock Island Vice, has permanent vice jaws as well as I can see. (no screws holding them in)Just wondering if that was common.This vise will be going on, a lay out, welding table, so not going crazy, just getting it back to square one and painted.
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Originally Posted by Bonzoo
Like gender profiling it's all in the spark output. 312 will be OK
Reply:
Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, G-ManBart, this Rock Island Vice, has permanent vice jaws as well as I can see. (no screws holding them in)Just wondering if that was common.This vise will be going on, a lay out, welding table, so not going crazy, just getting it back to square one and painted.
Reply:Hi, Wow, thanks for the info!This vise had a long, hard life, somewhere?I'm still cleaning and preping for paint.It was full of old hardened, grease and dirt, with ten coats of old paint on it!I'll put up some more pics, I did take the Mig and fill some gouges and holes.Not going for the full, "Showroom", Resto, but some things bug me when working on something!And yes, my fantastic Starrett, was made by Athol!Last edited by seagiant; 03-12-2021 at 04:49 AM.
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Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, And yes, my fantastic Starrett, was made by Athol!Hi, Thanks, learned a few things there.Did not know Starrett, was that involved with Athol, just thought they made the vises for Starrett.The supporting ledge was good info also, will sharpen my eye, when looking at old used vices.I bought my vice from an old boy, closing a welding shop for $75!I think it is pretty close to $500 new or was a few years ago when I looked.It has been a pleasure to use, and gets used almost everyday!
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Reply:Hi, The painting begins, nothing fancy, just brushing it on with light coats.Had some very light gray and mixed in some black to darken it up a bit.Looks like Bridgeport Grey now, which is better!Starting work on the tightening device now.I'll throw up some pics of that later on.
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Reply:Hi, Finished painting today, and started on the tightening device for the swivel base...Admittedly, getting ideas from the Starrett Vise, never made one before, but looks like basic machining.
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Reply:Hi, Worked on the handle that will be attached by a roll pin to the round block.
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Reply:Hi, Ok, now I have to make a "Wedge"!!!
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Reply:
Originally Posted by seagiant
Hi, Ok, now I have to make a "Wedge"!!!
Reply:Hi, Thought I would go ahead and put this up.This is what I ended up with, but not really a bad looking vise now, and a LOT better than what I had starting out.More things to do, will probably cold blue the raw steel and oil, ect., ect.Nothing fancy, but seems a good working vise now!
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Reply:Hi, Well I just put the vise completely together and it works great!Admittedly, I'm a little proud of myself, for going to the work and trouble, to get this thing back to square one, and operating as it should. (I have 360 degree rotation now!)I have to admit, the thought did cross my mind, to just weld it together, and forget about the swivel function, but could not do it, as I thought I could fix it right, and had the tools to do it.Using my marvelous Starrett, as a model, to go by, the Rock Island works, just as good now, and is probably stronger, than made.Takes very little tightening, to hold the vise to the base, and of course unlike, the previous Owners, will not be beating on it, with a hammer!I have Leg Vises, for that!
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Last edited by seagiant; 03-18-2021 at 01:37 PM.
Reply:Plumber/welder here. Had call leaking water line in school galvanized pipe threaded into cast fitting --leak at threaded joint. I used cast iron rod, 7018 and tried 6010 and failed to stop the dripping---so to me it can't be done--and I would not warrant or risk liability saying it can after 4 hours of buttering the cast then the mld steel with 7018 then cast grinding down then welding with 3 diff rods. just saying-motown ( 40psi city water)
Reply:Whatever you got going on,, BOLT that vise down now,,,
62 years ago, I walked past a vise that size,, and I had to turn the handle,, 1/50th of a second later, the vise fell on my left foot.
I was almost 10 years old.
Per the doctors prediction,, that smashed foot healed, but, I can predict rain due to cramps in that foot.I have had that capability for over 20 years,,I am not a safety freak,, but, turning that handle calls EVERY PERSON that walks past,,, and it is amazing how easily the vise will fall,,,
Reply:
Originally Posted by Birmingplumb
Plumber/welder here. Had call leaking water line in school galvanized pipe threaded into cast fitting --leak at threaded joint. I used cast iron rod, 7018 and tried 6010 and failed to stop the dripping---so to me it can't be done--and I would not warrant or risk liability saying it can after 4 hours of buttering the cast then the mld steel with 7018 then cast grinding down then welding with 3 diff rods. just saying-motown ( 40psi city water)
Reply:Good work on the vice seagiant!thought id ask here instead of starting a whole new thread.Welding mild steel to Nodular Cast Iron:The cast iron is a 3rd member, the mild steel is the plates to allow for "pegging" of the ring gear to help prevent defelection under loads. I have read of them being GTAW with a "super special filler rod that is VERY hard to get" (that guy likes to think of himself as some sort of diff guru) and I know of another that just welds them with GMAW and Er70S wire.I undertsand pre heat and post heat are both very critcial.So, if you were limited to either GTAW or Oxy/Acetylene would you weld or braze? which rod whould you choose? I have never GTAW brazed before (only welding), but have a mate that has done a bit of Oxy brazing.
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Originally Posted by husq2100
Good work on the vice seagiant!thought id ask here instead of starting a whole new thread.Welding mild steel to Nodular Cast Iron:The cast iron is a 3rd member, the mild steel is the plates to allow for "pegging" of the ring gear to help prevent defelection under loads. I have read of them being GTAW with a "super special filler rod that is VERY hard to get" (that guy likes to think of himself as some sort of diff guru) and I know of another that just welds them with GMAW and Er70S wire.I undertsand pre heat and post heat are both very critcial.So, if you were limited to either GTAW or Oxy/Acetylene would you weld or braze? which rod whould you choose? I have never GTAW brazed before (only welding), but have a mate that has done a bit of Oxy brazing.
Reply:If brazing I'd use flux coated Nickle Silver. Tig welding I'd use 312 Stainless. If you decide to Tig it you can look for a 1# pkg of Harris Supper Missile Weld or Weldcote Super 120 stick rod. Knock the flux off and clean with a scotchbrite pad. Tig away and save some money. The Ni Silv will be in a 10# box. Good luck !Thermal Arc 320SP ( Lorch )Cobra PythonsThermal Arc 300 AC/DC ( Sanrex )ESAB 301i AC/DC ( Lorch )Thermal Arc 161STL ( WTL )Thermal Arc 190S ( Sanrex )Cut Master 82, 42. Cut45 ( WTL )Victor Gas Apps.Boxes and boxes of welding crap. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:16:15