Soooo frustrating!

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Good morning everyone, hoping to get some guidance here. I am trying to weld in sub-frame connectors in my 1989 Ford Mustang and it is not working. I have a millermatic 211 set at 16GA and auto for the feed, I am also using .035 with a new liner and tip. The issue I am having is that I am getting a a lot of popping (I believe thats the proper term). I cannot get a nice bead due to the amount of popping and poor arc, it seems like it is a weak ground? I grinding down a part of the unibody for a ground and have one of those large 400 amp ground clamps attached to it. If I go to my welding bench without touch anything else except for the ground I will lay down beautiful beads with a much better sounding weld. It is like I am not grounding the car properly or wrong wire speed??? I even tried different ground locations and close as possible to where I am welding.Millermatic 211 set on Autogas is set at 20, goes to 15 when trigger is hit.035 wire with new liner and tipall steel is grinded down and cleaned with acetoneAny tips would be greatly appreciated!
Reply:I used to do tons of subframe connectors on Fox bodies. You really have to get the powder coated connectors sanded down to clean bright shiny metal. Also the unibody parts where you are them to have to be super clean. I have experienced the popping to on those. I kept adjusting to where my Htp 240 was happy and did not make holes. Most likely it is the dirt and grime coming to the surface. I also used .030 wire, but I doubt that matters. I used a little bottle jack to get the connectors tight to the unibody too.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Thanks TJS, is it possible the foxbody metal is contaminated and is still dirty after grinding? How did you prep??
Reply:Tried different wire feed speeds, auto adj is a great feature but. Some fine tuning may be necessary. Like the suggestion given .030 filler, .035 is hefty for the sheet metal. I find .030 to be the most usable size generally .Are you burning thru body sheet metal, causing the popping? Also move the ground to the sub frame, heavier material could provide a better path.Magazines have issues, everything else has problems


Reply:Hi pepi, I am not burning through the sheetmetal . What speed should I start at for a base? The ground is directly on the subframe connector with the powercoat grinded off obv. What I dont understand is if the speed might be the problem why when I go to the table and works flawlessly without doing any changes? The only difference is that I have a piece of steel on the table that is 1/8in thick which is much thicker then what is on the car.
Reply:Definitely increase the gas flow to 25cfh with the trigger depressed...15 isn't enough.Check out my bench vise website:  http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:There could be grime and junk underneath that subframe/uni-body on the car and it might be contaminating. Also the material Ford uses for frames welds differently. I can't give you the wire speed because my HTP 240 has dials and is not digital. Also concentrate on the subframe connector with your puddle and wash it over to the thin Ford junk. Change to .030 wire.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

Definitely increase the gas flow to 25cfh with the trigger depressed...15 isn't enough.
Reply:

Originally Posted by TJS

There could be grime and junk underneath that subframe/uni-body on the car and it might be contaminating. Also the material Ford uses for frames welds differently. I can't give you the wire speed because my HTP 240 has dials and is not digital. Also concentrate on the subframe connector with your puddle and wash it over to the thin Ford junk. Change to .030 wire.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Gnfanatic

ok, I did start with .030 but ran out and all I have left is .035. I will grab a spool today. I have been using the Harbor Freight wire, it is made in Italy I believe. Can I stick with the brand or go a different route?
Reply:I have been reading that a lot of guys say HF wire is junk and they had a lot of problems with it. I am going to go to HD and pickup .030 Lincoln wire and try it out tonight.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Gnfanatic

What I have been reading is that I am wasting gas at that number. I will try it out.
Reply:

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

Miller has an article on their website that says 20-25cfh is a good ballpark range.  The manual for a new Millermatic 211 suggest starting at 20cfh, but does specify to check with what the wire manufacturer lists as correct for that wire.  Lincoln lists 30-50cfh for their L-56 wire if that's what you're looking at trying (I've run it fine at 25cfh many times).One thing to know is that the shielding gas is required to initiate and sustain the arc so not enough and you'll have an unstable arc, which is what it sounds like you're experiencing.  Too much gas flow is bad (and wasteful) but a bit too much is better than not enough.The HF wire used to be made in Italy and was good wire, but it's now made in China from what I've read. I'm a bit confused why you said your flow meter showed 20cfh when the trigger wasn't depressed.....it should be zero.
Reply:There are situations such as inside corners where 15cf may be enough. I have never relied on recommendations for gas, adjust to the job at hand. I typically back off till I detect slight porosity then bump it up some. Hard wire, 2-3 cf is usually enough. On dual shield or aluminum mig, I will bump it 5-10 cf from that point.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Gnfanatic

I have a dual gauge reg. One is pressure which is about 60 and the other is flow. when I do not tough the trigger it reads 20 flow and when I hit the trigger the needle goes to 15.
Reply:1 Popping can mean to much heat: wire burning away faster then the wire feed can supply the wire to the weld puddle. opening the electrical circuit.2 Same heat setting: wire jams into the weld puddle: not melting quick enough, feed speed to fast.Speed up the wire feed speed, checking the weld. Starting the weld (heat) on the sub frame  washing down to the sheet metal was good advice. It is thicker takes more heat to penetrate (puddle).To test and get in the ball park.Find piece of stock the same thickness of the sub frame.  Adjust the heat and wire feed to get a puddle going. Not crazy liquid, so it wets out at the edges of the weld bead. Blends into the material, not sitting on top.Then give the project a shot, suppose you burn right thru the sheet metal, immediately. Back the heat off and bring down the wire feed some.Getting the idea ? The pros, and I am not. Know what heat they need and go from there. Adjust wire feed speed to suit the welding.Magazines have issues, everything else has problems


Reply:

Originally Posted by Gnfanatic

grinding down a part of the unibody for a ground and have one of those large 400 amp ground clamps attached to it.
Reply:Hmmm,, the bench weld looks great, the car weld,, not so much,,It is hot outside, do you have a fan running near the car that might be disturbing the gas coverage?Any kind of air draft can cause the same problems as low gas flow,,
Reply:Just a crazy thought but are you sure the frame material isn't galvanized?
Reply:Have you actually measured the thickness of the metal on the sub-frame connectors?  16ga is pretty thin...most seem to be quite a bit thicker than that.  Same thing with the unibody...have you measured the thickness at an opening?  If you simply don't have enough voltage and wire speed for the metal you won't get acceptable results.  On the low end it's far more noticeable than on the high end so that may be what you're seeing.Check out my bench vise website:  http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:

Originally Posted by G-ManBart

Have you actually measured the thickness of the metal on the sub-frame connectors?  16ga is pretty thin...most seem to be quite a bit thicker than that.  Same thing with the unibody...have you measured the thickness at an opening?  If you simply don't have enough voltage and wire speed for the metal you won't get acceptable results.  On the low end it's far more noticeable than on the high end so that may be what you're seeing.
Reply:I put a breakdown of my MIG welds in the "fuel pump' thread.  I didn't want to crap up this guy's thread.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

I HATE MIG.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Oscar

I'll take that as you hate limiting MIG welding machines..  


Reply:So..............look for the MigMaster sometime in the future



Originally Posted by farmersammm

Actually, no.  I hate MIG mainly because I can't run it.
Reply:Any cooling fans around?  Or air flowing that could disturb gas around the nozzle.  If I am on the floor with doors partially open, I can get an intense breeze that disturbs my weld gas.