12 on 12 branch test

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I am getting this test figured out--I think.  One question I have is how to cut the throat and point of the riser and how to cut the round piece from the other pipe.  What I am refering to is what piece do I cut a bevel and what piece do I cut flat?  When I was working on it yesterday, it seems like it would be easier to weld up if I beveled both pieces.  BUT, this isn't what a pipeliner told me, he said only bevel one or another, not both pieces.  Thank you for any help. --Tye
Reply:Yes, you're typically only going to bevel one side of the joint.  So far as I know, you should bevel the header, not the branch.  By 'header', I mean the 'top' of the Tee.  The branch would be the leg of the Tee.  Do you have a copy of the 'pipe fitters and pipe welder's handbook', by Thomas Frankland?  It contains complete instructions on how to cut, prepare, and fit branch connections.  Hobart Welding Instittute sells this, www.welding.org, or you can purchase from Amazon or another online bookstore.A good pipefitters reference book is the best place to start...I like the one I mentioned above, but there are others as well.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I have, "The Pipe Fitters Blue Book," by W.V. Graves.  Seems to be a good book but if there's better- I ll buy it!  Thanks for the tip.  Headed to Amazon right now to look up Thomas Frankland's book! --Tye
Reply:A Dab will do, Thanks for the advice.  Just ordered the book.  itll be here tomorrow - hopefully itll answer the rest of my questions. --Tye
Reply:Franklands book is comparable to the blue book.  I don't have a copy of the blue book, but I'm surprised the answer isn't in there.  Pages 87-89 in Frankland's book has a procedure for laying out a branch connection.  I'd double check this is OK with whoever you're testing with.Good luck.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:A Dab will do, oviously you know what you are talking about with this 12 on 12 test.  This will be my first time taking this test, do most testers want you to use a template or lay it out the long way?  I wont get paid to take it-i  guarentee it cuz ive never taken and passed it before.  Do they generally want first timers laying it out the long way or use of a template? thanks. --Tye
Reply:Don't assume too much Tye.  I've only taken this test once before, but I've been where you are now, trying to find out as much in advance as possible.  The one previous occasion I took the test they had a template available for laying it out.I figure on the job site they don't want anybody spending time laying this stuff out by hand.  It takes a while to do it the long way.  IMHO,Just like grade school, you can do long division with a calculator, and get the right answers.  But it's good to know how to do it by hand as well.  If you've got the book and know the basic method, you can yank out the book when you have to layout a connection that isn't a perfect right angle and the template doesn't fit...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I figured they wouldnt want someone taking more time than they had to on a test like this but who knows.  That book you recommended will be here today and I think the rain will hold off today long enough to get some practice in.  I am hoping to take this test maybe as early as the end of next week.  The bank account is getting a little thin, so gotta make a move.
Reply:Got the book.  A lot more descriptive than the one I already have.  Now if the rain would shut off for a day--
Reply:I'm new to this forum, kinda just stumbled upon it by accident, but as a pipeline welder I have taken the branch test a time or two.  I've always called the piece that you saddle the Tee and the piece you cut the hole in the Header, but that's neither here nor there, I just point that out to avoid confusion in my post.  Most of the time when you show up on the job to test either a template will be provided or the Tee's will already be cut, all you will need to do is clean them up so that they fit almost perfectly, with very little light or no light at all showing when you place it on the Header, bevel the Tee and cut a hole in the Header.  Provided that they're not already cut and you dont have a template then the only other option is to lay it out by hand, there are instruction is the Pipefitters Blue Book, but it makes laying one out sound more complicated than it already is, sadly I cannot figure out how to type it out for you, I could explain it if I could show you but, that's also neither here nor there. On the other hand i can tell you what to look for in fit up.  When you are grinding the bevel on your Tee you will want to periodically check it against the Header, I know thats ridiculously obvious but better safe than sorry, when you use the Header to check the Tee I think it's easiest to use a piece of soap stone to mark the "high" spots so that you will know exactly where it needs to be ground down. Whenever it looks like it may hold water without being welded, I take two 3/32 welding rods and bend them into a U shape to use for spacing tools.  Put the "spacing tools" between the Tee and Header in the throat of your Tee on both sides then with a trace the ID of the Tee onto the Header with a piece of soapstone, if it is cut properly it will be difficult to mark all the way to the tip of the ears of the Tee, so i always trace the ears on the outside also, then kinda split the difference of the ID and OD marks for the ears.  once you are satisfied with the marks you can cut a hole in the Header, square cut not bevel.  Check fit up again, don't forget the spacing tools.  If you don't use the spacing tools in marking the hole for the Header then the ears of the hole will be too long for the ears of your Tee and you'll have a huge gap to weld, not fun.  Trim and grind the hole as necessary so that there is a slight edge inside the Tee when it is sitting on the Header, you'll probably wanna be able to barely bump the edge of the hole with a welding rod in the throat area of the Tee.  After all that work all there is left to do is tack it up and weld it out.  I try to step the root pass in rather than drag it to make sure both the bevel edge of the Tee and the top edge of the Header are completly broken down and welded together, I've had trouble with undercutting the root pass with the drag method.  I dont know if I helped or made any sense, I may be telling you stuff you already knew or maybe there's a better way, but that's how I do it and everyone seems to have their own style, just take what you can and if I was no help then... dammit this was a waste of time... hahahaI'm not that great at laying them out and cutting them so my secret is grind, grind, grind the **** out of it!
Reply:kacotton told you just how to do it follow those directions and you cant go wrong....just remeber youd rather cut small and grind a lot and get perfection than cut big grind a little and have to fill like a bit*%.....plus some inspectors will fail you just for a bad fit uppipefitter/welder 7 yrsgeneral foreman 2 yrs working in the fabrication, chemical and petrochemical industry 7 yrsNCCER CERTIFIED-PIPEFITTER, IRONWORKER, WELDER

STOP SNITCHING


Reply:Tye I'm a 798 pipeline welder and I've done this test dozens of times, and one thing kacotton didn't mention is once you have it fit up and ready to tack, remember that they're going to cut your test straps in the center of the "ears" and "throat", so try and tack it off with a long bead across these points. Doing this will eliminate any starts and stops right in the test strap areas. Most people will agree this test is illegal to use in pipelines, but none the less you have to do it. It's both a fitters test and an all position test. A majority of the inspectors are not looking for perfection, but it needs to be clean, and somewhat pretty. True pipeliners will tell you that you've got all day to get the fit right so take your time and get a good fitup!
Reply:kacotton, when you talk about stepping the root pass you mean like how you would do it on a  6G with a 6010 or Uphill? Just wanted to clarify that. Thanks, Shawnaka Cumminsguy71 at other forums....would not work here??
Reply:Like you would if you we're welding an uphill root.


Reply:Oh and thanks for posting about the test straps cmpipeliner. I totally forgot.I know I may be burnt up, but your ol' lady likes 'em crispy!Member Pipeliners Union 798
Reply:Hello welding forum.I came across this forum and see it has been almost 6 months since someone has commented here on the 12 on 12 branch.kacotton has it going on along with cmpipeliner.I wanted to try and explain how to use the pipefitters blue book to lay out by hand without a template the Tee (i.e.Riser) that goes on the header.Some companies will not let you use a template and will want you to use your blue book and tape measure and wrap-around.Ok you will have your tee (i.e.Riser) in your pipe-jack stands.You will want to measure back from the square cut end of the piece of pipe about 5 inches and make a mark which will be your rap-around mark.After making your mark around the entire OD of the pipe with your soap-stone then take a piece of adding machine paper and rap-around the entire OD of the pipe and let it lap over about 2 inches and tear it off and the paper should be as neatly wrapped around as was when you made your mark with the rap-around with the torn paper over-lapping then take a sharp knife and cut the adding machine paper so it will rap-around the entire OD of the pipe and the paper shoud meet at the top and be exactly the OD of the pipe on your rap-around mark with both ends of the adding machine paper meeting at the top of your Tee (i.e.Riser Saddle)you are laying out for the header.After getting your adding machine paper cut to rap-around the pipe and meet then take the adding machine paper and let both ends meet perfectly and fold a crease in the paper.You will fold the paper evenly and square as possible 4 times since the layout will be in 16 parts.After folding the paper 4 times then take your sharp knife and cut off the 4 corners of the paper and when un-folded will look similar to paper dolls only with the notches on both sides of the paper.Rap your adding machine paper back around your rap-around mark to where the ends of the paper meets and take your soap-stone and make a v mark at each cut mark on the adding machine paper.Your 1st mark will be your CL (i.e.center line top) Mark and your 8th mark will be your CL (i.e.center line bottom and you will make a CL mark at your 1st and 8th soap-stone mark and after you have made all of your soap stone v marks you will have a total of 16 marks with a CL Top and CL bottom.Then take a piece of angle iorn roughly a 1x1 and lay it across each mark and mark a line from your original rap around mark to the end of the end of the pipe which will be 16 marks side by side running from the rap-around line to the end of your pipe which will be 16 - 5" inch long marks.Look in the pipefitters blue book  by W.V.Graves on page 29 in the top left hand corner under the 12 inch header and you will see 12 inch riser and the measurements.You start your 1st mark on your top CL (i.e. both center lines these are the throats of the Tee Riser.I will do my best to draw a picture below.Just think of the pipe un-rolled and laying out flat.Here are your 16 marks on the pipe.  start your marking  clock wise.                        Top CL line 1st mark >------v 7/16"-------------------------------.                           2nd line 2nd mark >------------v 1 - 7/16"----------------------.                           3rd line 3rd mark>--------------------v 3 - 1/4"-------------------.                           4th line 4th mark >-------------------------v 4 1/4"---------------.Roll your pipe to the bottom CL and start you marks again in the above order only counter clock wise.                           5th line 5th mark>----------------------------v 4 1/4"---------------.end of pipe.                           6th line 6th mark >------------------------v3 - 1/4"-------------------.                           7th line 7th mark>--------------------v1 - 7/16"---------------------.           Bottom CL                             8th line 8th mark>-----------v 7/16th-------------------------------.Then roll the pipe back to the top CL and repeat this starting counter clock wise.As you look at your check marks it is like connecting the dots with soap stone but you will fold your rap around at an angle and draw a line from mark to mark from your CL`s.After you have done this take your torch and cut it out and repeat what Kacotton and Cmpipeliner said to do and you will make this test everytime. The above is only 1/2 the pipe which is 8 of the 16 marks..Take care and good luck.Stevenwm.Last edited by stevenwm; 01-31-2010 at 08:30 PM.
Reply:This may be a dumb question but no one has mentioned this do you cut your circle on the header to match the id of the branch?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Holman_11

This may be a dumb question but no one has mentioned this do you cut your circle on the header to match the id of the branch?
Reply:Thanks didn't see that tillThe second time I looked I'm going to be taking this soon and for the first time trying to figure out heat setting on a redface sa 200 I'm running on third and thirty for root seems good the hotpass is perfect. My fill is with 5/32 70+ at 3rd and 50 - 55 seems ok but not sure what to cap it with 3/16 or 5/32 one bead cap or two?
Reply:I got a question on how you weld 3/16 rod on pipe specially on 3o'clock and down
Reply:Just to throw my 2 cents in, but the fit up is mostly what the inspectors are looking for, around here you have to take a 6" 6-G to weld on the firing line, a 12 on 12 to make tie ins. Although a mitered fit is illegal on a transmission line they want to know that you know how to fit up and then make the weld.Only bevel the bullhead side of the tee and make all weld according to the welding procedures(uphill or downhill).Also I have never have my branch cut out for me,but they did provide a template for me to use.After I prep my branch I placed it on my header and marked out the inside of the branch and proceded to cut the inside of the lines.I hope i haven't stepped on any toes but its just my opinion
Reply:Ok........First of all.....in order to test to API 1104 standards and be qualified to weld on all diameters, positions you will have to take both a open groove butt weld and the branch tests, no choice. Also in the API 1104 code section 6.3 says the welder shall lay out, cut, fitup, and weld a full size branch on pipe fitting, hence the fabrication portion of the test, so if this is being done for you then it is "not" a vaild API test. And yes you will perform this exact action if you will be doing any hot taps, unless you will be using a full encirclement reinforced tee fitting.Not all companies test to API 1104 mine does not, we use ASME IX for all pipe welds.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......


Reply:

Originally Posted by 74hotrod

Just to throw my 2 cents in, but the fit up is mostly what the inspectors are looking for, around here you have to take a 6" 6-G to weld on the firing line, a 12 on 12 to make tie ins. Although a mitered fit is illegal on a transmission line they want to know that you know how to fit up and then make the weld.Only bevel the bullhead side of the tee and make all weld according to the welding procedures(uphill or downhill).Also I have never have my branch cut out for me,but they did provide a template for me to use.After I prep my branch I placed it on my header and marked out the inside of the branch and proceded to cut the inside of the lines.I hope i haven't stepped on any toes but its just my opinion
Reply:All,It sounds like you all have good experience with this test.  I am a CWI and have given this test several times.  When I stumbled across this site I thought that here is a great place to let some beginners and some welders that maybe have welded for many years a few tip, things I have seen welders do wrong.  Because when I give this test I am not allowed to help the welder in any way.  It is up to them to know what to do.  ** This is a great tip that I learned from a veteran welder**------A coulple of years ago I was testing a veteran welder.  After he had his "T" all fit up he came and asked me if he could use solder in his test.  I was really puzzled after hearing his request.  This guy was a real jokster so I said "hell as long as you can get it to stik I don't care if you fill it up with bubble gum."  He said "no I just would like to use it for my "fit-up".  I figured this would be good time to learn something.  What he used it for you as a welder will find this very helpfull.  He cut 4 peices of 1/8" solder about 1 1/2" long.  He put them on the branch hole in 4 even spaces.  He just bent them into a U shape and pinched them on the edge of the hole from ID to OD.  When he set the "Branch" part of the T onto the "Header" they stayed in place really well and they where soft so they would give or "smash" flat when he wanted to close the gap a little and it was a 1 man job at that piont.  After the fit was complete he simply took his torch and melted them away.  Since this I have shared this little tip with every welder I know or meet.  I hope this will help you to.When fitting the Brand test up take your time and don't get frustrated.  You can go on the web and buy a template that has the sadle and it also has the hole pattern for the header.  I would recommend to use one of the templates instead of trying to cut it out from using the Blue Book.  Not saying that the Blue Book is wrong but I leave it at this "The templates will fit A LOT better for you."Food for thought**  The terms that old timers and eperienced welders that have been around for the two parts for a Banch test are the "Branch and Header".  The "Header" is the one you cut a hole in and the the "Header" is the one with the sadle cut on it.  There is two parts to the sadle also and they are call the "crotch and the apron"If this helps you please let me know.  I have had to opportunity to weld with some of the best welders in the country and am glad I can share I few helpful tips.  Please if you have any pointer let me know.  When you are taking this test are you required to cut a full hole in the header or are you allowed to leave a lip on the insder?  I usually have the welders I test cut a full hole, but I have taken it both ways.  Just curious.Happy Trails!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:

Originally Posted by Awelderiam

The branch is not a miter fit...a miter fit is any angle the exceeds 3 deg from square on a square cut end bevel, could also be called mis-alignment. Not high-low and not a branch fitting.You must be welding under ASME IX.....if you tested on a 6" 6G under API 1104 then you could only weld on 6" and smaller piping. The branch test is not anything outside of the Multi-qualification testing of API 1104.....just dont understand why you were tested that way...wierd.

Originally Posted by Welder/CWI

When you are taking this test are you required to cut a full hole in the header or are you allowed to leave a lip on the insder?  I usually have the welders I test cut a full hole, but I have taken it both ways.  Just curious.Happy Trails!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:

Originally Posted by Welder/CWI

All,It sounds like you all have good experience with this test.  I am a CWI and have given this test several times.  When I stumbled across this site I thought that here is a great place to let some beginners and some welders that maybe have welded for many years a few tip, things I have seen welders do wrong.  Because when I give this test I am not allowed to help the welder in any way.  It is up to them to know what to do.  ** This is a great tip that I learned from a veteran welder**------A coulple of years ago I was testing a veteran welder.  After he had his "T" all fit up he came and asked me if he could use solder in his test.  I was really puzzled after hearing his request.  This guy was a real jokster so I said "hell as long as you can get it to stik I don't care if you fill it up with bubble gum."  He said "no I just would like to use it for my "fit-up".  I figured this would be good time to learn something.  What he used it for you as a welder will find this very helpfull.  He cut 4 peices of 1/8" solder about 1 1/2" long.  He put them on the branch hole in 4 even spaces.  He just bent them into a U shape and pinched them on the edge of the hole from ID to OD.  When he set the "Branch" part of the T onto the "Header" they stayed in place really well and they where soft so they would give or "smash" flat when he wanted to close the gap a little and it was a 1 man job at that piont.  After the fit was complete he simply took his torch and melted them away.  Since this I have shared this little tip with every welder I know or meet.  I hope this will help you to.When fitting the Brand test up take your time and don't get frustrated.  You can go on the web and buy a template that has the sadle and it also has the hole pattern for the header.  I would recommend to use one of the templates instead of trying to cut it out from using the Blue Book.  Not saying that the Blue Book is wrong but I leave it at this "The templates will fit A LOT better for you."Food for thought**  The terms that old timers and eperienced welders that have been around for the two parts for a Banch test are the "Branch and Header".  The "Header" is the one you cut a hole in and the the "Header" is the one with the sadle cut on it.  There is two parts to the sadle also and they are call the "crotch and the apron"If this helps you please let me know.  I have had to opportunity to weld with some of the best welders in the country and am glad I can share I few helpful tips.  Please if you have any pointer let me know.  When you are taking this test are you required to cut a full hole in the header or are you allowed to leave a lip on the insder?  I usually have the welders I test cut a full hole, but I have taken it both ways.  Just curious.Happy Trails!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Excellent Thread. Solder trick is a great tip. Thanks for the info!
Reply:

Originally Posted by Awelderiam

Ok........First of all.....in order to test to API 1104 standards and be qualified to weld on all diameters, positions you will have to take both a open groove butt weld and the branch tests, no choice. Also in the API 1104 code section 6.3 says the welder shall lay out, cut, fitup, and weld a full size branch on pipe fitting, hence the fabrication portion of the test, so if this is being done for you then it is "not" a vaild API test. And yes you will perform this exact action if you will be doing any hot taps, unless you will be using a full encirclement reinforced tee fitting.Not all companies test to API 1104 mine does not, we use ASME IX for all pipe welds.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Tye's Welding

I am getting this test figured out--I think.  One question I have is how to cut the throat and point of the riser and how to cut the round piece from the other pipe.  What I am refering to is what piece do I cut a bevel and what piece do I cut flat?  When I was working on it yesterday, it seems like it would be easier to weld up if I beveled both pieces.  BUT, this isn't what a pipeliner told me, he said only bevel one or another, not both pieces.  Thank you for any help. --Tye
Reply:Why is there no shame in asking a local "pipeliner" but there is in asking here? Everybody begins green. Bevel your header, two caps are the standard for most header/branch, but I have never seen a 12 on 12 header.Constant Current Weldor.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Awelderiam

Ok........First of all.....in order to test to API 1104 standards and be qualified to weld on all diameters, positions you will have to take both a open groove butt weld and the branch tests, no choice. Also in the API 1104 code section 6.3 says the welder shall lay out, cut, fitup, and weld a full size branch on pipe fitting, hence the fabrication portion of the test, so if this is being done for you then it is "not" a vaild API test. And yes you will perform this exact action if you will be doing any hot taps, unless you will be using a full encirclement reinforced tee fitting.Not all companies test to API 1104 mine does not, we use ASME IX for all pipe welds.
Reply:

Originally Posted by EWS

I may be wrong but I would think that if the API standards book states "butt weld" it would technically be wrong with how I interpret the English language. I don't believe there is really a "butt weld". It doesn't really make sense to me to call that a weld. I see it as a grove weld on a butt joint for this particular test.I also have never seen anything but manufactured custom encirclements for hot tapping. I haven't been exposed to fabricating one in the field or anything of the sort on natural gas pipelines. If I may and just for clarification, can I ask what type of hot tap you are referring to when you suggest that may be an exact action performed while hot tapping?One more question real quick, I was under the impression that in order to be qualified to perform hot taps with a company using API 1104 standards you must successfully pass an Appendix B sleeve qualification test that includes a branch test. Does this sound correct?
Reply:I just did a weld marathon for my company! It was a 12 on 12 branch test, a 12"bell hole, and a hot tap simulation(split t)!  10hrs later aced everything but man that branch is no joke! Fit up and cleanliness is super important! Know where the coupons are gonna be taken(usually one from each ear and each throat) do not start or stop anywhere in those regions
Reply:who ever came up with this stupid *** test should be brought behind a barn & horse whipped until the who gets tired, let them go take a nap & resume the horse whipping! This is a bull **** test that's not even allowed by API specs stating that no "mitered fits" are to be used on pipelines or any other lines in the petro chemical industry!!!!! I've passed a many of them & then busted some because of a mis step.Give me a sheet of plate & i'll cut you out whatever you want. I've done fabrication with 0-lets which is the same ****ing thing. put a 100% bead around it, roll some hy low on top of the fitting & that's that! I've seen other welders,  IN OTHER WORDS, WHO CAN PENETRATE 50% OR LESS BUT *** LONG AS YOU Pass THE DIE_TEST, YOUR ****ING GOOD TO GO!!!!!!!
Reply:One thing i have not seen in this thread, which might have good reason seeing how i am new to this too, is after you tack it up i have been told you are supposed to roll it over and weld it out like that. Ultimately its the same thing because it is an all position weld, but the only difference i can think of is the tee would be facing down. Not sure if it is true or not that is why i am posting on here to get some clarification.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Kyllemall

One thing i have not seen in this thread, which might have good reason seeing how i am new to this too, is after you tack it up i have been told you are supposed to roll it over and weld it out like that. Ultimately its the same thing because it is an all position weld, but the only difference i can think of is the tee would be facing down. Not sure if it is true or not that is why i am posting on here to get some clarification.
Reply:All depends on the gas company, most are 100% downhill some want 8010 down and 7018 up just to qualify you for love-hy on o-lets and whatnot. I gotta take a 24" branch Thursday should be a treat
Reply:Not real good at it yet but I figured some pics of the fitup may help somebody out.



Last edited by tommyjoking; 02-12-2014 at 07:28 PM.
Reply:that is some mean a$$ fitting. i hope this job pays beau-coup bucks cause you deserve every red cent!i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Ok Doc,Well thanks but really that is no big deal.  I have been welding all my life and that was my very first branch test.  I have fitted plenty of saddles under ASME code on boilers but the pipeline world under API is a different thing.  It is way simpler then folks make it out to be. I need work on being slicker with downhand rods and that was the point of the pics....it was a practice session.  But fitting one is a fairly simple affair if you can use a torch and a tape measure.  That one i cut straight and ground my bevel...I was burning rods and filling it within two hours of starting.  Like other folks I had questions about how it is fit up and what is expected with the welding...hard to drive 700 miles out to test on a process you never done before.  A really fine friend of mine helped me out with showing the ins and outs and what is expected on test day, these pics are from that session.  The fit could be better....but that day it was close enough for what I was doing.I have heard that leaving a ledge on the trans/carrier pipe is "old School" and a lot of tests want it cut ID diameter before welding.  I dunno but I like leaving a ledge in there for burning in the bead...it helps.The marks are me inspecting my own welds btw.


Last edited by tommyjoking; 02-12-2014 at 10:52 PM.
Reply:Hey yall,I usually post and play on another site until someone turned me on about a week ago to this really cool welding forum. I think will be spending more time here than there.  Any way I'm a long time pipliner and a CWI and am going to be starting a pipeline specific school to teach all the inside tricks and tips on how to pass this test plus more starting in the mid spring when my new facility is finished there in Oklahoma.  This test is a breeze and can be finished in a few hours if you know what your doing and what to look for. Which I will be helping prospecting welders that are looking to break into the pipeline field or wanting to learn something new, accomplish there goals.   I haven't had time to post all the information here at welding web so I will provide a link to the other  thread and there are some really good pictures of the inverted tee test (Branch)   If any of you have any questions that are currently practicing or struggling with this test I would be more than happy to help you here on the forum.  There is already some good info that others posted about this test here.http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=33051
Reply:

Originally Posted by tommyjoking

Ok Doc,Well thanks but really that is no big deal.  I have been welding all my life and that was my very first branch test.  I have fitted plenty of saddles under ASME code on boilers but the pipeline world under API is a different thing.  It is way simpler then folks make it out to be. I need work on being slicker with downhand rods and that was the point of the pics....it was a practice session.  But fitting one is a fairly simple affair if you can use a torch and a tape measure.  That one i cut straight and ground my bevel...I was burning rods and filling it within two hours of starting.  Like other folks I had questions about how it is fit up and what is expected with the welding...hard to drive 700 miles out to test on a process you never done before.  A really fine friend of mine helped me out with showing the ins and outs and what is expected on test day, these pics are from that session.  The fit could be better....but that day it was close enough for what I was doing.I have heard that leaving a ledge on the trans/carrier pipe is "old School" and a lot of tests want it cut ID diameter before welding.  I dunno but I like leaving a ledge in there for burning in the bead...it helps.The marks are me inspecting my own welds btw.



Reply:I wish you guys wouldn't post pictures about this kind of work. You get me all excited to learn how to do it!


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Reply:

Originally Posted by CEP

I wish you guys wouldn't post pictures about this kind of work. You get me all excited to learn how to do it!



Reply:

Originally Posted by docwelder

i been welding a long time also but 98% structural. piping seems to be another animal entirely.
Reply:Hey fellas, interesting topic. I myself have a few issues with this test myself. I am a long time pipeline welder,mostly mainline or big inch up here in Canada. I only became aware of this test a couple years ago when the company I work for sent our welders to a procedures course with some of our American company welders. They filled us in on this test procedure. My first thought is, where would you ever use this in the real world?? You never do a size on size without full encirclement as there is too much stress put on the carrier. Secondly we always use factory fittings now and never fabricate them. Thirdly you can not torch cut the hole if it is for a hot tap and if it is in service piping no cellulose is allowed as it introduces hydrogen to the weld and causes hydrogen induced cracking. Just seems odd to me why you would test people on something that is probally never going to be used??
Reply:not employed in that line of work but i'm thinking they use this test cause it uses measuring, cutting, fitting and welding. if you pass then you've demonstrated your all round proficiency. jmvho.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:One thing yall forgot to mention is to put your seams in a place that won't be used in your coupons. I put my header seam on the opposite side of my hole and my branch seam halfway between the ears and throat.  I also mark them with chalk occasionally so as not to forget.  Too many ways to bust this test, try not to do it with something dumb like that.  Good luck hands.
Reply:This is a great thread!!  Being mostly a Structural welder I'm practicing practicing and practicing downhill pipe welding.  I've been reading The "Pipefitters Blue Book" (W.V. Graves) and really studying it.  Doing a lot of 5G welding on 8"OD pipe, 1/16" land, 1/16 gap with 1/8" 6010 Root - Cap.  I need to pick up more 5/32" 7010 electrodes, but I'm using 6010 to practice.  Also 6"OD 6G with 6010 root, 7018 cap uphill.  I'm fixin to lay out the Branch T soon,  see what happens...  Learned a lot from you guys and this thread.I'm no Pipeliner but someday.... Someday...HillBilly Delux - . Best of luck with your school,  maybe someday I'll attend.  

Last edited by DieselDon16; 05-03-2014 at 10:03 PM.Some Blue , Some Red & Some GreyProverbs 16:2-3.2 "All a person’s ways seem pure to them, but motives are weighed by the Lord. 3 Commit to the Lord whatever you do, and he will establish your plans."