Double cut shears vs unishears

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I'm in the middle of a pretty major remodel, and have a need to cut some long strips of 16ga sheet, as well as a little metal ducting. I'd like to buy tools that will also serve well in a metal shop... I now have a MP210, but haven't had much time with it, due to the remodel.It seems like a double cut shear or a unishear, combined with a small and large (10-ga) nibbler is a good long-term combo for metal work in a multi-purpose shop, where I'd like less airborne particles (such as using a grinder to cut). So, I am leaning towards a pair of 14ga shears.What are the reasons I should consider 14ga double cut shears versus a 14ga unishears?Any recommendations for finding a good (new or used) pair of electrics for a couple hundred bucks or less?Thanks!Last edited by rossn; 03-25-2021 at 08:15 PM.
Reply:Are you in Canada?   I have a Makita and a Bosch for sale. Both 16 gauge capacity in mild steel.  $200 Cdn each.


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Reply:New with good brand that keeps new blades.I have single left and right cut and double cut hand shears. But only cut up to 24 gauge used on metal roofs. If I had a real use heavier from 22 gauge and up I would buy a electric shear on 120 volt , start with single and later add double/nibbler. The few times I need over 24 gauge I used a 4.5" grinder or cutting torch. Dave

Originally Posted by rossn

I'm in the middle of a pretty major remodel, and have a need to cut some long strips of 16ga sheet, as well as a little metal ducting. I'd like to buy tools that will also serve well in a metal shop... I now have a MP210, but haven't had much time with it, due to the remodel.It seems like a double cut shear or a unishear, combined with a small and large (10-ga) nibbler is a good long-term combo for metal work in a multi-purpose shop, where I'd like less airborne particles (such as using a grinder to cut). So, I am leaning towards a pair of 14ga shears.What are the reasons I should consider 14ga double cut shears versus a 14ga unishears?Any recommendations for finding a good (new or used) pair of electrics for a couple hundred bucks or less?Thanks!
Reply:Thanks!I'm in the US, not Canada. Did Bosch stop making corded models?I would be using it more for metal fab than roofing/duct/etc. It seems like the long slitting/double cut versions have a very good radius, whereas one like the Kett 440 can only do a 7" radius. I still cannot figure if you can turn the head 90degrees on the Kett, but it seems like maybe not. Seems like a good value at $200 new.
Reply:Sounds like a nibbler would work better for what you need. I like my Makita...

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Reply:I use a Milwaukee 8" metal cutting circular saw for cutting sheetmetal. I just make straight cuts and it's great !! I have a old-time Bosh unishear for light gauge. I'm amazed it is still going after many years. Bosch is all we used at work on 20 gauge and less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:That is a pretty slick nibbler jig! Did you fab that? I'm noticing the makita emblem, but it looks custom. So, all the niblets go on top of the work piece?I have definitely heard good things about the metal cutting circular saws. I'm assuming that is really best for sheet sized goods. How thick CR mild steel can you go with those?
Reply:

Originally Posted by rossn

That is a pretty slick nibbler jig! Did you fab that? I'm noticing the makita emblem, but it looks custom. So, all the niblets go on top of the work piece?I have definitely heard good things about the metal cutting circular saws. I'm assuming that is really best for sheet sized goods. How thick CR mild steel can you go with those?
Reply:

Originally Posted by rossn

That is a pretty slick nibbler jig! Did you fab that? I'm noticing the makita emblem, but it looks custom. So, all the niblets go on top of the work piece??
Reply:Looks great Dave

Originally Posted by Lis2323

Sounds like a nibbler would work better for what you need. I like my Makita...

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Reply:

Originally Posted by BD1

I had mine a couple of years. I only use for sheet goods. I've cut sheets of 20 gauge into strips.I cut plenty of 1/4" no problems. The thickest I cut was 1/2".There's members here that cut 1" thick. I know there's a few post about the Milwaukee. I bought the HF metal cutting saw when they were available. It worked out great for my work. I was so impressed I decided to by a "real" saw. Bought the Milwaukee then.
Reply:I have the Milwaukee 8" saw. You will want a higher tooth count blade than the stock one for material usually under 14 gauge or so and with lighter gauge expanded metal. What you have to do is rethink how you use a typical circular saw. Forget trying to see the cut line, measure off the blade to the side of the shoe and mark your line there. Best yet is to use a straitedge as a guide. Set the depth of cut so it just makes it thru the cut. You won't get binding or kickbacks if you fully support the work, avoid twisting the saw and follow the other 2 things I mentioned.
Reply:''Do you do much chopping of tubing/bar stock with yours, or is that a hassle?Of course, circular saws always have the reputation for being on the more dangerous end of the spectrum. Sawing metal, do you ever start to get lift or other situations where it feels like the saw wants to kick back''? I use the Milwaukee for sheets only and never had a issue with kickback. Supporting work well and using a straight edge is a must. I use the Milwaukee 50 tooth for thin material which is 3/32'' or less. That's what Milwaukee recommends. I've only used the Milwaukee Blades which I bought from Zoro Tools when they use to have 30% off.  I have an Ellis 1600 for the rest of my cutting along with a HF 4x6, abrasive saw, and handheld portaband. I bought the Evolution on clearance a couples of years ago. It was a toy compared to the Milwaukee and sold it.Here's what i made for cutting sheets the narrow way, works well. I always use a straight edge, the only way to do it.I use this Milwaukee portabandv on stand for all my artwork. It's extremely handy and bought it cheap because of busted casting.

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Reply:Thanks - sounds like the Milwaukee is the metal circular saw of choice. Too bad, given the Evo can do a bevel. Did you have the Evo 7 or 9? It is a bit telling that the specs on the Evo 9 are the same amp motor as the milwaukee, but only rated at 1/2".It is odd tool mfg's aren't adapting this to their tracks for their track saws... seems like it would be a perfect fit.
Reply:

Originally Posted by rossn

Thanks - sounds like the Milwaukee is the metal circular saw of choice. Too bad, given the Evo can do a bevel. Did you have the Evo 7 or 9? It is a bit telling that the specs on the Evo 9 are the same amp motor as the milwaukee, but only rated at 1/2".It is odd tool mfg's aren't adapting this to their tracks for their track saws... seems like it would be a perfect fit.