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looking to get a 14" chopsaw in the next couple days. i just do hobby projects at home so ill be cutting steel tube or pipe etc. looks like the prices range from 200-$275. milwaukee, dewalt, skilsaw, metabo, makita, bosch. best i can tell they all seem to be from china. considering that and the price, im not expecting world class qaulity but is one of those listed brands less junky than the rest ?
Reply:I have a Dewalt that I got for a little over 100 bucks on a Black Friday sale a few years ago and like it. Mostof the Chinese saws are the same IMO.
Reply:i stand corrected. dewalt looks to be made in mexico and is only $208. might not be a bad choice
Reply:Things to consider, is the base made out of stamped steel or is it a thicker casted/molded metal base. Less flex with a cast base. It could make a difference in blade life if a stamped base flexes under load.Look at the clamping mechanism. How solid is it built and how easy is it to tighten down or loosen up for rapid thickness adjustments. Then how easy does the clamp angle from 90 to 45. Is it toolless or do you need to use a tool every time you adjust the angleHow is the pull handle oriented, vertical or horizontal. This is not a big deal but is mostly personal preference. However ergonomics can play a role after making cuts with the saw repeatedly all day long as in a production setting.You did not list a couple of brands and one that a lot of people like is the Fein Slugger “$$$” and the many different Evolution models.Do your homework. There are several saws out there. I personally have the Dewalt 12” saw and it does a pretty good job over all. Cut capacity is a bit less with a 12” saw vs. the 14” and 15” saws.Last edited by N2 Welding; 02-17-2021 at 04:07 AM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:I have two metabos and one dewalt and really like both brands. Been cutting with them for years and they are still cutting away no problems.
Reply:Just my experience here, was using my Milwaukee chop saw one day cutting an angle cut on a piece of pipe and the pipe slipped and turned. It shattered the wheel, exploding it instantly and went all over, one piece cut into the light fixture above the work area which had a lexan clear cover. Stuck in that cover as if it was an axe blade. Thankfully no damage to me but scary for sure! Just be careful and make sure your work piece is secure. Bob
Reply:From the price you are referencing, it sounds like you are looking at the abrasive blade chop saws. My vote is to spend a little more and buy the carbide blade dry cut saws. N2 brought up a lot of good points to look at regarding the saw itself. The carbide blade saws always cut to the same depth and don't have a blade that shrinks in diameter. Plus the abrasive blades heat the metal more and are much dirtier to the surrounding area. As mentioned by rhunt, the material must be firmly clamped in the saw. There are times I use an extra clamp just to make sure. I have a Dewalt DW872 dry cut saw. Yes, it is more expensive, but the saw it 20 years old and still cuts fine. Buy once, cry once.Millermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:Hi If you were not so far away from me I could sell you a nice Jepson dry cut saw I think they were made in Germany. I haven't used it for a long time And advertised it for $200 but no inquiries But I imagineshipping to the US would be expensive
Reply:I have a Ryobi that I bought on sale at HD for $80. It works well for a hobbiest. I recommend you consider a horizontal band saw instead. I started with an abrasive but added a band saw - so much better! No sparks and mess, much quieter, cleaner cuts and more accurate, can stack material to double or triple cut, and you can start and walk away to do something else. It is a little slower but worth the difference. I only use my abrasive saw for tool steel now. The little Harbor Freight 4x6 band saws are surprisingly good if you get a good blade and take time to tune it up. Several places to guide you through tuning, but I bought one used and it was very accurate. Later bought an old Kalamazoo it is great.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I have a Makita 14" I bought back in '75 that is still going strong. Last summer I got smart and bought a 14" carbide blade at HF to cut wood with it.
Reply:My old style Milwaukee Abrasive saw is still going. Must be 30 years old at least. This is before the quick open vise. I'd watch for a used one IF you want an Abrasive saw. The metal cutting saws are definitely better for a smooth cut as PSAcustomcreations said. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by arcflash
I have a Makita 14" I bought back in '75 that is still going strong. Last summer I got smart and bought a 14" carbide blade at HF to cut wood with it.
Reply:If you can swing it I would spend the extra money and get a carbide dry cut saw.
Reply:I use this dry saw MUCH more often than the abrasive saw or the band saw.
But whatever you buy, I prefer cast base vs stamped.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Others have basically summed it up - I am also a hobbyist - but splurged and bought the Makita LC1230 - paid under $500 new. Can't be more pleased with investing in a chop saw. Have used the abrasive style, it will work perfectly fine but as mentioned generates a lot of heat and a lot of metal dust - that goes everywhere. The chopsaw is more chips and less airborne in my experience - still a little mess but very manageable. But for me - the clean cut and ability to hold the part immediately was huge as well as the accuracy. Band saws are great - a decent horizontal is on my wishlist - but for now I use the Milwaukee hand held mounted in a SWAG table to run through smaller items or cuts I can't make on the chop. I think it comes down to budget, what you are willing to work with as often as you do - there are many great options - like the Evolution chop that was mentioned as well.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
I use this dry saw MUCH more often than the abrasive saw or the band saw.
But whatever you buy, I prefer cast base vs stamped.
Reply:
Originally Posted by cornchip
while a horizontal bandsaw seems like a perfect idea, i have very limited space in my garage. so chopsaw is what ill go with. atleast it can be tucked away a bit easier. ya i got looking around and the carbide dry blades look like the hot ticket. i used abrasive blades at work and despise them. toxic dust everywhere and huge fire danger in a garage from sparks. i got digging more into these chopsaws. the $200 models are about 4k rpm. the $500 versions seem to be more around 1500rpm. do the expensive models have some sort of heavy duty gear reduction?i stumbled on the evolution brand. it looked to have alot of good reviews and perked my interest. definity im interested. the fein looks good but a bit more money. i hadent planned to spend $500 but the $490 evolution may be the one. cast aluminum base and dry blade included
Reply:well i pulled the trigger on the fein slugger. looks like a solid choice and has the dry blade included. few youtube guy have said the fein blade has made hundreds and even thousands of cuts and its still cutting good. so the blade would easily last me many years
Reply:
Originally Posted by cornchip
well i pulled the trigger on the fein slugger. looks like a solid choice and has the dry blade included. few youtube guy have said the fein blade has made hundreds and even thousands of cuts and its still cutting good. so the blade would easily last me many years
Reply:Abrasive chop saws also are invaluable for "freehand cutting" where you often have an odd sized assembly thar won't clamp into the saw's vise. And as others mentioned ... rebar and other materials of unknown hardness. I have a Makita dry cut saw.....
but will NEVER part with my Makita 14" abrasive chop saw. If I was forced to keep only one it would be the abrasive saw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
I have a Ryobi that I bought on sale at HD for $80. It works well for a hobbiest. I recommend you consider a horizontal band saw instead. I started with an abrasive but added a band saw - so much better! No sparks and mess, much quieter, cleaner cuts and more accurate, can stack material to double or triple cut, and you can start and walk away to do something else. It is a little slower but worth the difference. I only use my abrasive saw for tool steel now. The little Harbor Freight 4x6 band saws are surprisingly good if you get a good blade and take time to tune it up. Several places to guide you through tuning, but I bought one used and it was very accurate. Later bought an old Kalamazoo it is great.
Reply:I find in the farm shop the quickest and easiest method for rough cutting almost anything.I have a vise bolted to a short piece of plank I place on the floor when needed And then either use the 9" angle grinder with a 1/8 cutting disc or I have a Bosch 12" hand held cot off machine which can take either blade and is a powerful machine Probably isn't as accurate as a chop saw But gets the job done fast You do need to be carful and always wear a face maskLast edited by Josey; 02-19-2021 at 12:41 PM.
Reply:@ corn chip, sounds like you are interested in blade life. One thing to consider is the blades can last longer if you match the teeth count to the material thickness although this may be more prevalent with band saw blades, I believe this is true with these chop saw blades as well. I have not cut anything thicker than 1/4” with the Makita and rarely use it unless I’m making a bunch of cuts with one long piece of material. So I just use the blade that came with the saw. It’s not worth my time to get it out, set it up with a material feed stand etc and then have to clean up and put it all away again for one cut unless it’s a speacial cut that requires precision. Enjoy your new saw, I’m sure you will have if for many years to come.Last edited by N2 Welding; 02-19-2021 at 04:05 PM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:I've had my Milwaukee 14" abrasive saw for ~20 years, for an abrasive saw it is outstanding. It has set outside year round in Alaska for the last 14 years. Not a hiccup, and using it outside eliminates metal dust inside, not a big deal to move it as needed. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Reply:Here are some tips and with these and any other suggestions, I dont mean to insult, just share my mistakes.To the OP, if you do not have a set of "V" blocks, I suggest making some out of 1 inch angle and some flat bar. Pics attached.This will hold square tube on the diamond and it is much better for the blade. The V blocks can also offer a more secure way to hold pipe.Make sure you support the outboard or right side of the cut.Make sure the object in the clamp is very secure.If cutting at an angle, add a C Clamp to help hold the material. I have had the material creep a little in the vise and that throws off the length.Slowly enter work piece, then let the saw do its job. Carbide teeth chip or break if they hit the material too fast. If you break a tooth, search on here. There us a thread about a company that fixes the blade teeth and sharpens the blade. It is much cheaper in the long run than powering through and damaging the blade and material.Don't cut bar stock on the flat if you can avoid it. That is very hard on the blade. In other words, dont lay a piece of 1/8 by 4 flat bar flat on the saw. Again, very tough on the saw blade. Buy at least one more blade right away. It is so much easier to change out the blade right away than stop a project and go to the store or order online. Match the tooth count and material to the blade.Spray some wd40 on the blade when cutting aluminum. Once the teeth get hot and clog, it starts to get ugly.
Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.comI certainly cant add anything to psas comments as I have already implemented several of his suggestions after reading in previous posts. (Thanks, Pat!)However....to those that have or choose to use an abrasive chop saw, here are my suggestions which I find work well. The fact that they are dirty to operate and throw sparks is a given. No argument there. As mentioned by others, take the time to set the vise square with the blade. Buy a QUALITY name brand blade. I have good luck with the thin 3/32 Makita. They are only around 10 dollars I believe so why cheap out?Do NOT cut with a continuous grinding motion. Use the saw as described. CHOP. This action minimizes blade deflection and heat buildup resulting in more accurate and clean cuts. Just my $.03. (I tend to overvalue my opinions). LOL
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Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Do NOT cut with a continuous grinding motion. Use the saw as described. CHOP. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
Is that why they are called "Chop Saws" and not "Grind Saws"? Sorry, been around ronsii too much.
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Reply:For cutting thin stuff frequently, I really like the Diablo Cermet II 90-tooth blade. ¼" down to ⅛" wall-thickness (or ½" plate/bar) and it works great. I use Stick-Kut wax lubricant pretty much every single time unless I forget.
I liked it so much I bought a spare, and also a 72-tooth version in case I have to cut any thicker stuff. The videos I've seen YouTube of the Cermet-tipped Diablo tools is definitely impressive.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
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Reply:A couple of jokers in the crowd ? I think there's more than a couple.
PSA and Lis provided words of wisdom. Many members here share their ideas and suggest a improved way to do things. It's like, learning from your mistakes before you make them.
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Reply:Back to the topic at hand. This Dewalt saw has a stamped metal base. These pics are an example of potential issues with stamped metal versus a cast base. Some of this came from letting the heavy pieces to be cut hit or drop onto that side as it was being put in the saw. 2-1/2" solid bae stock gets kind of heavy. Taking a bit more care of your tools will make them last longer.
Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:Also for the Op and any others. Here is a thread from Oscar about the saw blade sharpening service. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...ade+sharpeningMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
Also for the Op and any others. Here is a thread from Oscar about the saw blade sharpening service. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...ade+sharpening
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
Here are some tips and with these and any other suggestions, I dont mean to insult, just share my mistakes.To the OP, if you do not have a set of "V" blocks, I suggest making some out of 1 inch angle and some flat bar. Pics attached.This will hold square tube on the diamond and it is much better for the blade. The V blocks can also offer a more secure way to hold pipe.Make sure you support the outboard or right side of the cut.Make sure the object in the clamp is very secure.If cutting at an angle, add a C Clamp to help hold the material. I have had the material creep a little in the vise and that throws off the length.Slowly enter work piece, then let the saw do its job. Carbide teeth chip or break if they hit the material too fast. If you break a tooth, search on here. There us a thread about a company that fixes the blade teeth and sharpens the blade. It is much cheaper in the long run than powering through and damaging the blade and material.Don't cut bar stock on the flat if you can avoid it. That is very hard on the blade. In other words, dont lay a piece of 1/8 by 4 flat bar flat on the saw. Again, very tough on the saw blade. Buy at least one more blade right away. It is so much easier to change out the blade right away than stop a project and go to the store or order online. Match the tooth count and material to the blade.Spray some wd40 on the blade when cutting aluminum. Once the teeth get hot and clog, it starts to get ugly.
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Reply:I have used Oshlun, TenRyu and Dewalt blades.Some of them make blades designed for Steel, Aluminum, or Stainless. The honest answer is that if you look at the condition of my saw you will see I am not exactly gentle with my tools. Due to that, others might be better able to judge the difference in some of the manufacturers blades. Oscar, Lis, BD1 etc might offer better guidance.I have not tried the Diablo 14 inch blades. I mostly use this saw now to cut down full length sticks so I can then cut them on my bandsaw. Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:No blade insight from me.
I'm still using the OEM blade that came with my Makita LC1230 dry cut saw. I haven't invested in a spare blade. I keephoping I see one on sale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
No blade insight from me.
I'm still using the OEM blade that came with my Makita LC1230 dry cut saw. I haven't invested in a spare blade. I keephoping I see one on sale.
Reply:I just realized after rewatching the video. Even though one might be able to cut multiple types of metals with one blade I got to wondering would it be wise. Concerns would be if the blade used to cut mild steel then turned around and used to cut stainless might contaminate the cutline of the stainless if it is to be welded. Same thing with cutting Alluminum. The blade might be able to be cleaned if needed but something to think about or discuss for those wanting one for all materials.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
I have used Oshlun, TenRyu and Dewalt blades.Some of them make blades designed for Steel, Aluminum, or Stainless. The honest answer is that if you look at the condition of my saw you will see I am not exactly gentle with my tools. Due to that, others might be better able to judge the difference in some of the manufacturers blades. Oscar, Lis, BD1 etc might offer better guidance.I have not tried the Diablo 14 inch blades. I mostly use this saw now to cut down full length sticks so I can then cut them on my bandsaw. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by ronsii
I have gone through more than several blades on my dewalt multicutters, have used oshlun and dewalt brand... they're very similar in performance... cut mostly steel flatbar, tube and pipe... 12 ga through 1 inch thick bar with an occasional oddball thrown in that I shouldn't
I have also gone through a lot of smaller blades for the handsaws and I will NOT recommend the diablo brand for them!!!! but oshluns are a great choice for cost per cut as they seem to work every bit as good as the original milwaukee blades which I really like
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
challenge accepted!
Reply:Pat. I have a question On setups like this in your photo..
If you had a smaller diameter workpiece is it not too critical that it isnt supported on the bottom albeit being clamped more securely with the VEE? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Pat. I have a question On setups like this in your photo..
If you had a smaller diameter workpiece is it not too critical that it isnt supported on the bottom albeit being clamped more securely with the VEE? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:the saw arrived. seems like heavy duty construction
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Reply:Here's an example of a good reason to NOT ditch your abrasive chop saw if you upgrade. Slotting thin gauge angle iron that can't be securely clamped ....
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Reply:
Get a bit too close to an arc welder???
oh... you probably let Sid run it
Reply:We know what a competent welder would have done. Photoshopped that out.
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Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
We know what a competent welder would have done. Photoshopped that out.
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Reply:ive had a chance to use this fein saw a bit while making a welding cart and theres not a bad thing i can say about it. well worth the money imo.
invertig 221 water cooledmillermatic 211hypertherm powermax 30xp
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:14:10