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Welding rod/amp calculators

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发表于 2021-9-1 23:11:48 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Morning, I'm going to start using the little DekoPro welder - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NWFB2S9/..._continue?th=1that I purchased after the "How cheap can you go " discussion.  I did a fair bit of welding and even took an evening course at our college, but all that was over 25 years ago. I'm definitely going to need refreshing and re learning on the topic . I'm starting out welding 3/16" general use steel rod(that's what the metal supplier calls it) to flat  bar of the same thickness. I know I'll have to play with the amperage and such. Could anyone suggest a good, easy to use rod for this? Also, I'm looking at purchasing the Miller stick/SMAW Calculator booklet. Would this be a good starting reference? Or is there something better available? Thanks in advance for your time,Ken(not sure what's up with the orange letters??🧐&#129488


Reply:I would use 3/32" 7018. Depending on your machine 75-100 amps, usually 90 is good.
Reply:Thanks for the info. I'll pick some up shortly.Ken
Reply:7018, 6013, 7014 are all good choices if you are just starting out. Don't bother with the calculator booklet. SMAW amperage is really dictated by two things: rod size and visual feedback from the puddle. It really isn't set by metal thickness at all. For example, if you are running a 1/8 7018 electrode, you generally want to start out at about 120-125 amps in the flat position. Every machine is different since no two machines read amps the exact same way. Start at 125 and either decrease or increase your amps until you get a puddle that looks right, and fills out appropriate for the travel speed you are maintaining. There are plenty of resources on the web that will teach how to read a puddle and determine if it is too hot or two cold. Then there are some basic rules of thumb to follow for welding out of position (e.g. vertical or overhead). But even then you will still adjust the heat based on what the puddle is doing. Because there is always inaccuracy in the ammeter or dial on your welder, you will almost never be able to dial in the amps correctly on thhe first try, even with or without the calculator. Every box of welding rod provides an operating range for amps. You can always use the midpoint as your starting value in the horizontal position.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:

Originally Posted by GummyMonster

Morning, I'm going to start using the little DekoPro welder - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NWFB2S9/..._continue?th=1[/FONT][/COLOR]
Reply:

Originally Posted by Oscar

Your next purchase should be a DC ammeter so you can create a correspondence between what you set the machine at, and what it is actually putting out.  Owning some cheap inverter welders myself (Tooliom brand), I would be willing to bet you will be very surprised as to the reality of the operation.    It will go along a way towards your learning because when someone here recommends XYZ- amps, they are assuming your machine can be set to such an amperage and actually deliver it, which in this case would be far from the case IMHO.    I would not be surprised if that deko welder only put out 120-130A.  The one I bought, the Tooliom 195S is $109 with the current $30 coupon, and I'd bet it's the same exact thing as the deko.
Reply:I guess that's why stick welders are called "constant current power sources."
Reply:All this information is appreciated. I'm researching about making a proper looking puddle/bead this morning , as well as reading through this forum trying to soak up what I can. Thanks,Ken
Reply:

Originally Posted by Kelvin

I guess that's why stick welders are called "constant current power sources."
Reply:I find  6013 or  7014  the  easiest  rods  to  start  with.    You don't need any  calculators  or  meters to get  started  Start  with low amp  setting.  then  gradually  increase  the amps  until  the  rod  lights  easily.  then  experiment   a few  amps  at a time up or down until you find the sweet spot  where the rod burns  smoothly  With  practice  you will soon beable to find  the  sweet spot  with  any  rods  regardless  of any  meters.
Reply:You can look up most electrodes on the manufacturers site and find amp ranges specified for that rod. Go way down the page here until you find "typical operating procedures" and you'll find the recommended polarity and ampere range. Pick something mid range to start and adjust up or down from there as the situation demands. https://qacd.lincolnelectric.com/en-...ur70181mr_smaw---Meltedmetal
Reply:I follow a basic rule of 1 amp per thousandth of an inch of diameter, eg 3/32 is about .093, so start at 90 amps and adjust up or down, 1/8 would be .125 or 125 amps to start.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!“Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:Some good info contained in this link,https://www.weldingmania.com/stick/w...sition-charts/
Reply:

Originally Posted by danielplace

If you can bring 1000 amps to a 60 watt light bulb for a load do you think the ammeter on that circuit would read the 1000 amp you supplied or the 60 watts the bulb is loading the circuit with ?   What the machine puts out on any given setting and what a ammeter reads while it is welding will never correlate. The amperage the ammeter reads is limited/controlled by the variable load of the welding rod shorting out to the work.Regardless of where the machine is set you should not expect a ammeter on the line to match what the machine is set at. It is a combination of where the machine is set and the load applied that you would see registering on the ammeter.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Oscar

So, then every welding machine from reputable manufacturers that have a live welding amperage display (essentially including an ammeter inside the machine) are completely wrong/incorrect/false information being relayed to the user (if he chooses to look)?  Sorry, but I don't agree with you on that.  My disagreement is based on empirical data I have already measured.
Reply:3 divided by 32 = around 901 divided by 8  = around 1255 divided by 32  = around 150This puts you in the ballpark for 7018 rod diameters.  I don't run any 60xx, so I'm safe

  Really!!  I believe I've run 6010 maybe 3 times.  My life experiences are sorely lacking


Reply:Thanks for the great info. I ordered the 3 rod types suggested, and I'm looking through the other links posted.Greatly appreciated,Ken
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