new to welding...

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well im new to welding, and im taking a auto body repair/ welding class in VOC, so far we have done arc welding, and work with the oxy acetalyene torch,i came here to get more info on welding.first questionwhen im in the welding booth and i go to start, the stick gets stuck to the piece im gonna weld, what do i do to prevent me from doing that?second question is.. i wanna get a welder, but im not sure what kind to get, i wanna be able to weld together frames for bikes, go karts, and stuff like that, but i also wanna be able to weld together thick metals like 1/8 steel or somthing along those linesalso, is there anywhere that can tell me about what kind of metals can and cant be welded together?thanks for the help
Reply:Couple of things:Now you know why it is called 'stick' welding. Proper Machine setting helps, as does technique. Don'ttap the rod against the material, scratch it slightly as you touch, and keep the touch light. Doesnt take much, i the metal is clean. Restriking mant rods is tougher than striking a new rod. Upping the current a LITTLE can make a difference, as can upping the voltage a little, if the machine has that adjustment.For a machine: learn several processes before buying. MIG is a good general purpose tool, but there are things you can't do with a small one. Most of the small MIG's will do 1/8 material well enough, but avoid the real cheapies: stick to Miller or Lincoln. Mig is great for sheeet metal.If you are looking at doing frames, You may want to learn TIG, which will be a machine that can also do stick. A lot of frames are done with MIG, but TIG is a lot more versatile, and can give a higher quality weld, albeit with more experience needed.The biggest problem with MIG is that it is easy to make a good looking weld that has no strength, or, worse, has hidden flaws that will cause failure later. Bad with a frame. TIG is more controllable. Not necessarily stronger or better, but more controllable.
Reply:do you have any recomendations on which TIG i should get??i dont wanna spend alot of money since im new to it, im looking for one thats reliable but  on the cheap sidei was thinking maybe one of those harbor freight welders. are they any good?Last edited by blacksheep; 11-01-2004 at 03:12 PM.
Reply:You are going to spend a few bucks on a TIG machine.   There's nothing wrong with a good mig machine.  In the shop I work in, the most used machine is a Lincoln SP-175 that we use on quick repairs up to 1/4" thick metal.  You can pull off quality welds with MIG with a little practice: http://www.brainfarth.com/welds.htmlI've seen a few DIY TIG machines that can hancle 120 amps for under 300 bucks.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:if i bought a  Campbell Hausfeld Flux Core 85 Gasless Wire Feed Welde... would i be able to weld a .. lets say go cart frame together?Last edited by blacksheep; 11-02-2004 at 01:34 PM.
Reply:For a CH 85 flux-core machine, that would be pushing it to it's absolute max.  I'd recommend that you stay away from the bargain-basement weding machines if you plan to weld anything that may be life threatening if it fails.  Look at Hobart, Miller, Lincoln, and ESAB.  Get something in the 140 - 180 amp range.Hank
Reply:I would recommend either the Lincoln SP- 175 PLUS (not the T) and the Miller Matic 175. Both of these have infinte voltage control (unlike the cheap units) which is a big plus in my book, especially if you are new to welding. Either of these can be had for under $750. I think the Miller is about $660 these days and the Lincoln is over/close to $700. Add a Argon/CO2 tank (the regulators should come with the welders) for about $100 (or more depending on the size) , plug them into and electric dryer outlet, and your good to go. Doc.Some of the things I do would cause a person to get hurt, expelled, arrested, or possibly deported. To put it another way, don't try this at home.Look at the stars whenever your can. That light travelled a long way to get here, dont let it go to waste on some patch of asphalt.