New to welding and could use a little advice

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Hi everyone. I am somewhat new to welding. I owned an ARC welder a few years ago and for the type of thing I was using it for (bike frames) it was crap. Mountains of slag everywhere and a poor quality weld to boot.I want to buy a MIG welder to weld motorcycle frames, metal tables and gates. Do I go for a gasless one, or a gas one??? I have read that using gasless wire with a Gas MIG gives good welds. Also, I would like to weld Alumunium and Stainless steel at sometime. Can I do this with a general MIG? You know, like the ones sold in auto parts places for a few hundred dollars which run up to 100-140amps. I don't want to buy one now and then need to upgrade any time soon.I like working with metal and want to learn and develop my skills. But I want to avoid jumping straight in with the first thing that I see and realise that I have wasted my $$$. So, a little advice would be good.Thanks, James.
Reply:hey partner,  Well I cant say ive heard this claim of using selfshielded flux with argon, but I reckon it would work.  I would think its a bit of a waste of money.  If your looking for clean welds, stick to solid wire with argon mix.   As far as the size of your machine, I believe its best to stick with Red or Blue.  Lincoln and Miller are to me like Ford and Chevy.  Hobart is good too.  They have some sort of tie to Miller, not sure what it is though.  I was once told anything less than 200 amps is worthless, a boat anchor.  I think for a hobbiest you can get away with a smaller mig, provided you're careful and if you go anything over 1/8" with the smaller machines you described consider first putting a bevel.  Guy I worked with used to use a MM135 which is a dandy little machine.  But he used it to attach 1/2" and 3/8" plate to plate up to 1/4".   It was all uphill vert. and it did not do good.  However, it did hold these gate on.  Turns out we gave up using that when we were in a windy area and chose to use my machine.  When the old smitty realized how fast and clean stick welding can be he put the lil 135 away and we now only use my arc welder.  The MM 135, MM 175 and MM 210 all are aluminum capable as are the equivilant Lincoln models.   The 210 is a little big for what you need, but when it comes to welders you can never have too much power, just not enough money.  I personally am looking at the MM175 for thin stuff, 16 ga and 1/8" as it has capability to go up to 3/16" as rated.  They can usually go a little thicker than their rated, but dont push that if strength is an issue.  Hope it helpsCHRIS
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckhey partner,  Well I cant say ive heard this claim of using selfshielded flux with argon, but I reckon it would work.  I would think its a bit of a waste of money.  If your looking for clean welds, stick to solid wire with argon mix.   As far as the size of your machine, I believe its best to stick with Red or Blue.  Lincoln and Miller are to me like Ford and Chevy.  Hobart is good too.  They have some sort of tie to Miller, not sure what it is though.  I was once told anything less than 200 amps is worthless, a boat anchor.  I think for a hobbiest you can get away with a smaller mig, provided you're careful and if you go anything over 1/8" with the smaller machines you described consider first putting a bevel.  Guy I worked with used to use a MM135 which is a dandy little machine.  But he used it to attach 1/2" and 3/8" plate to plate up to 1/4".   It was all uphill vert. and it did not do good.  However, it did hold these gate on.  Turns out we gave up using that when we were in a windy area and chose to use my machine.  When the old smitty realized how fast and clean stick welding can be he put the lil 135 away and we now only use my arc welder.  The MM 135, MM 175 and MM 210 all are aluminum capable as are the equivilant Lincoln models.   The 210 is a little big for what you need, but when it comes to welders you can never have too much power, just not enough money.  I personally am looking at the MM175 for thin stuff, 16 ga and 1/8" as it has capability to go up to 3/16" as rated.  They can usually go a little thicker than their rated, but dont push that if strength is an issue.  Hope it helpsCHRIS
Reply:James, do a search at hotrodders.com - there is a thread about using a special "flux coated" wire with gas MIG. It is'nt standard flux coated tho but a special type of wire especially made for body work.As far as advice go Chris is usually spot on. Apart from what he said - Gas is the best way to go. You'll appreciate the amount of time you save in terms of chipping off slag. I think that you can weld thinner with gas than using gas and coated wire. Only time that you'll probably want to use flux coated MIG wire is when you weld outside and it's a bit windy.The thickness of alumunium that you weld will probably determine the size of machine that you'll buy. I've got a Miller MigMatic 171S, 150 Amp - can also be used gasless. They sell these in the UK as well. Nice little machine, only gripe is that I need some more amps for some of the things that I want to do. I've been looking at a 210 Amp Hobart machine that I want to import from the UK, also ESAB has got a few goodies which has caught my eye.If aluminium is a definite requirement do'nt beat about the bush, go for at least a 200 Amp machine - aluminium needs a lot more heat than steel.Duty cycle may or not be an important consideration for you - my little Miller is rated at 30% at 150 Amp. I've never exceeded that but then I only use it for very light fabrication work - really use the machine probably only once in 3 months. Do'nt rush your purchase like I did, determine your needs - find the machine that match your requirements and choose the next one up in the product line.
Reply:Cassidy is right about gas.  I guess I kinda over did it there,  not sure cause I tend to rant.  Stick can make nice welds if done properly.  However, spatter and slag are an issue to both stick and flux that gas shielded doesn't run into.  Infact, for many the lack of flux helps to create an easier view of the puddle and they can make better welds.  Another point could be made that the fumes from stick and flux core is a lot greater risk than that of Inert gas.  It is never safe to breathe in the fumes from welding.  However, if youre welding mild steel, clean mild steel I might add, and its being done with inert gas solid wire your health issues are greatly reduced.  As long as your not in a confined space, you should have no problem making your welds.  This means if you have a shop, even small one, you shouldn't have to open the doors during the winter time.  I still recommend some sort of ventalation.  Flux though, and stick you must have a lot more ventalation.  Either way you go, you gotta be careful, watch yourself.  Headaches are an immediate sign to stop welding and get into some fresh air.  Our bodies are our greatest tool, safety and otherwise.   Dont abuse it, listen to what it tells you.  Good luckCHRIS