new tig welder....questions!!!

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Hello,I am new to Tig Welding....and new to welding for that matter. I have a number of questions as I started in on my first project and well...it is a start. haha.For the record, I know that Tig welding is probably not the ideal welder to start on and learn from, but I wanted a nice welder, and wanted to spend my bones on the end product I wanted. - I purchased the Lincoln Precision Tig 185  as I researched a lot of equipment and this one stood out as one of the best for the price I was looking at.Now, on to my questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. some of these are going to be pretty basic, but please bear with my ignorance. THESE QUESTIONS DEAL WITH DC- MILD STEEL1) When running my bead with a push technique, do I want to move the torch up and down to cover the weld area? - Does the stack of dimes look come just from running the torch lateral and dipping the filler, or is the torch also in movement besides lateral for better coverage? - My beads are narrow and thick, is this because I am moving too slow or because I am not moving the torch and the puddle around????2) Approx how far out should the tungsten be from the edge of the cup?3) I have noticed that my tungsten glows orange quite a bit? Am I moving too slow. - I know I have my settings fairly in spec. - so it is not a amp issue.4) Should the filler always remain in the puddle, or do you bring it out of the puddle and back in (dipping) - is this what makes the stack of dimes? - if you do bring it out, do you make sure it is still under the cup?5) I have noticed that my welds start out okay, and then they seem to get hotter - is this normal, and should I control this with the foot control and ease up on the amps, or should I turn my amperage down and max out with the foot control....or Could I just be moving too slow again. 6) When adding filler, should the filler be really close to the tungsten. I always get a better bead going, but I get frustrated when I get too close and touch the tungsten to my filler!!!7) What is the key to tacking without filler when you don't have an extra hand. I can't seem to lay a bead down, only burn through.8) The manual that comes with the welder is pretty crappy as far as what things do - but I guess they figure you are experienced....so that is my bad....what is pulsing? - Is this for AC only? - should I turn it off when welding mild steel? - I am not even getting into aluminum yet, just mild steel.???THANKS!!!!!!
Reply:You might want to take a look at this on-line Miller TIG manual.  Lots of good information that should answer many of your questions.http://www.millerwelds.com/education/TIGhandbook/TinkerCentury 135GS, ThermalArc 250GTS
Reply:well for starts, your narrow piling up bead is too cold or fast...which basically means the same.  Your tungsten seems fine as long as it looks clean after you weld.   You push your torch along, you also dip your rod into the puddle. It doesnt need to stay in the shielding though.  As your weld devolops you wont need as much  heat.  You can either ease up on the amps, or you can just move faster.  Depends on you and how the weld seems to devolop.  Key to tacking with a rod,  perfect fitup, and just make the two pieces fuse and get outta there.  Hope this helps...Id be glad to give me advice if you'd so desire.Good luckCHRIS
Reply:What heat are you welding at and what thickness?Personally I never take the filler out of the weld pool, it's always dribbling in the front of the pool then if the pool starts to heat to much just add wire to cool (and speed up). Once you get a heat you like you shouldn't go changing it with extra controls, learn how to use the wire and speed to get it right.    That way when you get on a basic machine you have the skills to weld without the flowery extra's which is where a lot of learners come unstuck.No heat is prefect, I use anything from 80amps up to 150-160amps it comes down to what your doing with the heat (with a 2.4mm tungsten)Tungsten stick out about 10mm, depends on what sort of ceramic but thats about right.Filler should be at the front of the weld pool rod towards the back.Since the rest of the world is meteric I thought I'd let you guy's convert LolCheers Stephen