Some startup advice on welder type

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I am looking to buy a welder to do some repair work on an old Ford truck with a rusted floorboard.  I want to buy a welder that I could use down the road to do frame repair and building a chassis for a home build Lotus Seven.  I used to be into off-roading and had access to a friends shop where I did some fabrication so I am familar with MIG welding but only on heavier (1/4" usually) stuff.  I know some people highly promote ARC/Stick welding because it is less expensive and supposedly more flexable, but I have no experience with that.  I would like a welder with good flexability and it would be nice to take advantage of the fact that my garage is wired for 220.So, what would be a recomendation considering all of these points?-Q
Reply:I picked a Miller 251 mig. Got a 3 yr. old one for $1375 on ebay. It'll do everything from 1/32 galvanized rust to structural steel on 220v. What more can you ask? Then again it would be nice to have something that'll work in the field (you know, gas powered). That's my next planned purchase. Maybe a Bobcat.
Reply:Is the 251 more flexible with thinner material than a 170?  The 251 is getting a little steep for me.
Reply:I think they are pretty much the same on thin stuff. I just hate running into things that my welder won't weld.
Reply:If you're looking to do this on the cheap, I'd recommend a smaller mig and a cracker box (stick). A used stick welder can be had really cheap, they run forever, and will weld any steel your mig can't handle.
Reply:Not on the super cheap, but I was hoping to find something used around the $500 mark or so.  So it might make since to get a 135 and a stick.  There is a Lincoln AC225 for $200 which would handle the big stuff I'm sure.  I doubt I would to the floor repairs with that though.
Reply:In the used MIG category there is a Dayton and a Century 130 welder for $275/$250, but I'm not familiar with those brands.Last edited by gollygwagen; 09-27-2005 at 05:07 PM.
Reply:I'd suggest sticking with a Miller or Lincoln.  That way you can always get parts and their performance is proven.  I have the little Lincoln Mig and it's surprised me withit's performance.  I bought it to do a repair job, planning on returning it when I was done.  But after I used it I was so impressed that I kept it!  Although if I had 220 power in my garage I would have considered a bigger machine.
Reply:Yeah, I would really like to get a 170 or better if I could find a way.  I found this one from Tool King, but like you I would prefere a Miller or Lincoln. Hobart 500416BR "B" Grade Handler® 175 MIG & Flux Cored 175 Amp Welder $490Guess I'll just hold tight and keep shopping.  There are a few new "freight damaged" units on Ebay that are still sub $400 that I'm watching closely.
Reply:If you check farm sales and the like, you should be able to pick up a Lincoln AC225 for $50-100. Pretty much indestructable, you'd be hard pressed to break one with an axe. A used MIG is a bit riskier, but if you go with a brand name unit you should be able to get parts.
Reply:this is what you need is a lincoln sp-175 for $675 just save your money and get it, you will be glad you did or put it in layaway at your local welding supply store. you dont want to use a stick welding on a car body not enough control, you can use it on the frame or axle housing but the lincoln 175 with .023 hard wire will do car bodies with no problem and with the flux-cored wire you can weld the frame and the axle housings with no problem.i have 20 plus years welding experience and a master on heliarc stainless steel
Reply:There is actually a Lincoln SP-170T for sale locally for $400.  It's seen a lot of use, but it does work and comes with the cart.  I'm leaning towards that at the moment.
Reply:I am gonna carry you back a few years, but you might consider the older millermatics, like the 200s.  They were really simple, reliable, and had no problems with the kind of stuff you are talking about doing.  I occasionally see them on e-bay for cheap (like $200-$400), cause they are old.  They are big for their amps, but they are build for the long term.  I have an older MM130 that I got used a few years back, and I like it mainly because it reminds me of the bigger old millers.  As for stick, if you have room and a truck to pick one up, try to find a big 1960's-1970's model 250 amp ac/dc miller or lincoln.  Besides being a really good buy (if you can find a local one)  they make a tremendous paper weight and bicycle lock stand.  I see these go all the time for practically the price of the copper core in them.  I have an '80s model miller dialarc 250 ac/dc and the only reason I have ever taken the side panel off it was to install a remote connector.  I also got a really old miller (maybe 40 years old) for my dad for $200 (mainly so I could save loading and unloading my stuff when he needs work done) and I cant tell the difference between his and mine when welding.If space is a problem, there are always the older powcon (or similar) inverter welders (dc only).  The models that are mainly for stick welding go for between $200 and $400 usually, but even there you can sneek up on a bargin.  I now have three of these welders, two 300ss, one 300sm (for mig power supply).  They have really nice arc characteristics in stick.  Just thought I'd add a thought or two to the thread.  Hope it helps...Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Good information SmithBoy!  I actually went ahead and got the Lincoln SP-170T.  With the stand and being local it was a good deal.  I'm excited about having my own welder and being able to do some projects I've been looking forward too.  Thanks again for the advice, it help to get the feedback before the purchase.-Q
Reply:Good job!  More Spatter less Chatter!