Welding overhead?

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I'm not a trained welder and all I do is stick weld with a machine I've had for about 15 years. Mostly it's stuff around the house - shelves, racks, gates etc. So far I've avoided having to weld anything over head, but I'm building a carport and this time I can't avoid it. I had a go last weekend and made a real mess of it. I've got some very sad looking vertical welds that I have to grind away and some overhead stuff that's even worse. So, what's the best way to do it? Feel free to treat me like a dill and point some really obvious things that I'm no doubt doing wrong.Scott
Reply:I've not gotten to overhead welding yet but first thing I'd look at is if your using the right electrode on the right setting. Some electrodes were not meant for overhead welding.
Reply:Didn't know there were different rods for overhead. I'll check that.Any other hints out there?And with vertical welds, is it better to go up or down? With most things I've done I can move them around so I'm welding horizontally. I can't turn the carport upside down.Scott
Reply:Scott,   There aren't special rods for over head exactly, but some rods can be used in all positions while others are designed for flat or horizontal.  When looking at  rod number usualy the 3rd  digit tells you he position the rod was designed for.  Ex. 7018 - the third digit is a "1" which means its an all position rod. Any rod with a 1 in the third digit is an all position 6013, 7014, 6010, 6011 etc...   Another thing to consider when welding out of position is usually rdecuing your heat a bit will help.   I have found that when learning, a nice clean tight fit on your weld joint really makes it easier.  When welding vertical. uphand and down hand have there place.  down hand is better for thinner material because you will not burn through as easily, and uphand is used when more penetration is needed and for most critical applications.    I would suggest getting yourself a good welding manual.  It will give you some good advice and also some illustrations on the techniques for welding vertical and over head. ~Good luck , jacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I like 6011 for vertical and overhead, but I hate cleaning the flux off the beads.  I really like 6011 cause I find it easier to fill gaps out of position than with other rods I have used (just my taste and general situation...gappy metal).  Keep in mind that, in general, you cant weld as hot out of position as in flats.  If you are dumpig a bunch of filler on the ground and the welds look like sporatic crap, turn down the heat and shorten the arc and go slower, until you get to where you can control the filler.  You'll get colder welds to begin with, but as your techinque gets better, you can turn the heat back up a little at a time.  I have found that if you dont do out of position stuff for a while, you have an adjustment period to get back into it, at least I have an adjustment period.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:when learning overhead try and brace yourself to keep steady. Like the others said turn down the heat, and keep a tight arc
Reply:Thanks guys. I'll try all of that. Just to add one tip of my own that I worked out on Sunday:'Don't wear a shirt with an open neck that will allow a ball of red hot metal to fall inside and nestle against your chest where it will proceed to burn itself into your skin causing you to run around screaming and swearing like a madman and frightening your children and neighbours.'
Reply:Make sure that you maintain a tight arc.  If you let your arc lengthen you'll be wearing alot of spatter.  It's also important to set yourself as comfortably as possible when welding overhead.  If you wear a set of leather sleeves to protect your arms, you won't be worried about getting burned and can concentrate on watching your puddle.  You should be able run the same amperage as in a flat position weld.
Reply:Scott, a lot of times , depending on the rod and the weld, you might have to push the rod. Most times you want to drag but sometimes the rod angle necessary to keep the puddle up can be pretty severe. Almost like pushing a mig pass. And like dendog69 says, you have to be locked in comfortable. Do dry runs also to see if you can get both ends of the pass without changing position. Good luck!
Reply:Thanks again for the tips. I'm looking forward to having another go this weekend. Rain is forecast, though.