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I was doing some big tack welds ,and welds about 1 " long.Almost evry start up fused the wire so I flipped my lid .I raised my helmet ,and had to unstick it and start over.Every now and then it keeps running after I release the trigger,wire keeps feeding.I did get this machine slighlty used.Millermatic 251X
Reply:take apart your torch mine was doing the same thing. Theres a little contact in there that kept touching even though you let up just bend them apart a little should be o.k. as far as the sticking goes I guess just make sure you got 3/8ths of an inch of stickout...
Reply:Make sure all parts of the gun are tight including the tip.If voltage is set to high, burnback may take place at the tip. Is tip sze correct for wire being used?
Reply:Because you touch yourself at night....watching family guy re-runs...Owner of Welding Wiki,The free wiki based resource for weldor's around the world.http://www.weldingwiki.comWe have cookies!
Reply:Originally Posted by ctardiBecause you touch yourself at night....watching family guy re-runs...
Reply:does the tip stick out past the nozzle ?dose your machine have a burn back timer on it that you can adjust?chuck
Reply:Originally Posted by chopper5does the tip stick out past the nozzle ?dose your machine have a burn back timer on it that you can adjust?chuck
Reply:Using solid wire and gas?? You really need to watch the nub on the end of the wire and------------more than likely trim the nub off much more often. We tend to put less effort into tacks, moving along quickly and often that leads to a break-away finish. Especially if your trigger is slow to open. You'll get a little ball on the end of the wire and that ball makes for a nasty 'pop' start the next tack. Popping starts tend to blow clear back to the tip.
Reply:What kinda machine are you using?....Does it have a 'run in' setting?Miller TB Pro 350DMiller 12VS ExtremeMillerSpoolMatic 30AMiller Spectrum 2050MillerMatic 251Look Out for 79 Year Old Ladies Runnin' Late for A Funeral
Reply:Originally Posted by FearcityINCtake apart your torch mine was doing the same thing. Theres a little contact in there that kept touching even though you let up just bend them apart a little should be o.k. as far as the sticking goes I guess just make sure you got 3/8ths of an inch of stickout...
Reply:Casarez, I used to have that tip stick problem. Fixed it for me when i started learning that with mig the wire feed is your amp setting..anyway, pint im sayin is you may be running too much volts vs too little wirespeed. Try turning up your wfs or turning down your volts...this should fix it without using Wd40 which is baaad for the welding its baaaaad IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:I am using the settings that are on the inside of the machine ,and it still does it.I wonder if I need to apply more presure to the wheels that feed the wire through the gun.Using the exact settings with the correct wire dia. I still have the problem of the tip fusing to the wire.I had to go through 3 tip in 45 minutes.What gives?
Reply:Play with the settings. As Tx implied, sounds like too little wire speed for the voltage. Crank the speed all the way up, then work backward (decrease speed) as you weld until you find the setting that works/sounds best. Increasing the tension is not really good because the wire should be able to slip if it gets stuck at the tip, otherwise it will tangle in the machine. Is the liner clean?
Reply:also to add to taps statemernts of wire tension...you can actually cause the wire to be ground off, causing lil shaviggs which will clog the liner IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:I'm having the same problem..Pop! burns off even with the end of the tip when I first start. I have a 250X without meters 1999 model. I'll try the turning up the wire speed as some of you suggested. I've welded with a stick for 35 years and just recently bought the 250X so I'm still learning the MIG. Someone told me I may need to adjust the burn in but wasn't sure how to do it on my 250x but said I'd have to pull the cover off of it. Thanks guys I really like your site, Farris
Reply:farris, a fellow s5ick hand just keep in mund wire speed is your amperage... voltage controls the arc. start with fac numbers...particularly those you find on data sheets from the wire manufac. Ive found even if im using say esab though If i go to the lincoln site the nyumbers usually real good at getting me close. Still the numbers on the machine are usually pretty good for a starting point. Ok, once you get that set, dont touch your volts. Set your machine for fusion welding with the wire. if the bead is all tall narrow and stringy, add some voltage. If not, or if its too flat or lots of spatter...pull the volts back. You will get a nice crisp sizzle when its set right. ITs a fine electrical sound. I still like the sound of a good stick rod personally..but youll get the sound and youll like what you hear for mig as well. hope this helpsIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:oh and farris, welcome to the site and a merry christmas!IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:I've unknowingly put the tension roller back down and adjusted it with the wire out of the feed roll groove on my Miller 175. Took me an hour to figure out why it would weld great for a second then suddenly burn clear back to the tip and stick. Overdoing the feed roll tension can also cause a mess in the feeder if the wire sticks to the nozzle, and the feeder keeps shoving wire (big old rats nest under the cover).
Reply:If your voltage and wfs are close to what they should be, then it's likely that burnback is the result of a problem with the wire feed system. Check the drive roll tension, clean the liner, and use a new tip.To much drive roll tension is a common problem. Some people will crank it down if they have feed problems, which usually hurts the situation. The drive rolls should be set with just enough tension to push the gun back when the wire is fed into a non-conductive surface. The manual for the welder should have a good description for this process.-Heath |
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