Stick settings.

admin

I'm new to welding and recently bought a PT185.  I've been using it for TIG, but wanted to try the stick function on it so I bought the cable and electrodes and started trying it out.My question is, if I'm welding .120 mild steel, what setting should I use?  What is the general rule?  For TIG it's 1 amp per .001, is it the same for stick?  I used that on DCEN with a 3/32 6013 electrode and it seemed kind of hot when set at 120.  I turned it down to 100 and it still seemed a little hot.  So is the any rule on this one?I also tried DCEP as well as AC just to see what the difference would be.  What applications would require the different polarity settings?  Is there any one setting that works best?
Reply:My question is, if I'm welding .120 mild steel, what setting should I use? What is the general rule?
Reply:Id say Sandy gave very sound advice...as always.  To add my two cents though,  theres a sayin that even with stick you can go  with .001" per amp.  However, this doesnt work because differnt rods run differnt.   for instance.  6010 needs a lower amp than say a 7018 and a 6013 is more close tot hat 7018.  Look at the box of rods you bought.  IT will offer a range.  find the middle point of that range.  That is therortically speaking where you want to start out for the flat position.   This accounts for voltage drop...well the upper end generally does.  The upper end also accounts for individuals who choose to run a hotter weld.  For vertical up you want the lower end of the spectrum.  For vertical down you want the upper end of the spectrum.   But when you go with differnt rods youll need difernt amperages.  I can tell you what they are...but I dont know..lol  I dont read from numbers anymore.  I see what burns and I adjust to what I want.  However, this is helpful to a novice user.  Also, another thing you aske was polarity.  That box label I told you about...said it gives you amperages...  well it also give syou polarity.   Just remember this.  If you have DC forget you have ac...AC only if you absoultely need it for the size of rod...in most cases you never need it.  Ok, most rods will be reverse polarity...electrode hot.  Tig will be electrode cold or straight polarity.  There are a couple rods that are electrode cold...electrode neg whatever....but more likely youll find rods tht can be run in either...and I dont see any point in running them on straight polarity.  The common rods are...6011-deep penetrating good for thick and works on rusty or dirty/painted on steels...kinda ugly unless you really got the hang of them.   6013- mild to low penetration...good for thin...and 7018...extra strong....med penetration...very picky very strong...if you weld a trailer hitch or an axle make it with 7018...but 7018 needs clean metal prep...and the rods gotta be dry.  This means buy only what you need, open them only when your ready to weld.  If you can get them blue rod holders.  Better yet get a rod oven.  These rods are moisture susceptable.  there called low hydrogen cause they keep the hydrogen count low and whats a key element of water...hydrogen...these rods are used in pipe, structural, and most all large stuff.  IF its large or really needs to hold...7018.  all welds you make the cleaner the metal before welding the better it will hold...even 6011.  but 6011 is more forgiving of this stuff.  If you do get 7018...get the smallest box possible.  Get the 7018AC too..  Dont worry its not only for ac..but its designed for the smaller lower open circuit voltage machines.   Also, most hobby types find the 3/32 7018 much more favorable to the 1/8"  its easier to control.  a 3/32 7018 and a 1/8 6011 run pretty close tothe same amperage...not perfect but there not too far from each other.  Just my best lil bit of adivceIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Good stuff Chris. Get better soon.
Reply:Hmmm, maybe someone could make a chart of this, as an image, and I could host it on my server?  All the rods, temperature ranges, polarities, and some notes about them.  If anyone feels like doing this up, please PM me!Owner of Welding Wiki,The free wiki based resource for weldor's around the world.http://www.weldingwiki.comWe have cookies!
Reply:I just got one question...if the 7018 sticks get moisture from the environment, can I just put them in my kitchen oven (of course with no direct contact with flames) for about 5 o 6 minutes, so moisture gets out or evaporates?Do the sealed containers work? is there a modification that it can be done so they can be safer?Hey ctardi is your server the webpage you got? I´ve tried accesing it a lot of times and it won´t work! Love to see what u got
Reply:Thanks for the replies.  Who would have thought to look at the package?  I thought my rods were burning kinda fast.  I'll try the setting from the box, and I'm sure I'll get better results.  Thanks again.
Reply:Originally Posted by elvergonI just got one question...if the 7018 sticks get moisture from the environment, can I just put them in my kitchen oven (of course with no direct contact with flames) for about 5 o 6 minutes, so moisture gets out or evaporates?Do the sealed containers work? is there a modification that it can be done so they can be safer?Hey ctardi is your server the webpage you got? I´ve tried accesing it a lot of times and it won´t work! Love to see what u got
Reply:elvergon,  there are some procedures for drying your rods on the lincoln site.   All rod distributors should have this, but I know specifically of lincolns as lincoln is the brand the pipefitters union used.   I also always prefered the xcalibur 7018's when they needed  to be puuurfect.  No country welding for me    anyway  yeah ill help you with that info if you need for rod drying.  Oh and your oven will work too.   But it wont be no 5 or 6 mins.    Ummm  ok, the plastic stay dry tubes are good...but they arent 100%.   I use them for things that arent getting xrayed basically.  For instance if im doing heavy equipment repairs or any list of things I use the rod stay dry boxes.  The round plasic tubes.  But your suppose to keep them in a rod oven after you return to the shop.   I just havent been able to afford one yet.  I will i know there cheap enough.  what I do for now is buy my rods in a small 2-5 lb box at a time.  only open them when I need to.  then if theres extra...I take em home.  dont worry none about it.   Use them  next time or on something even less critical.   Just my way of doing things.IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Waay back when my dad had a pipeline const. company all open cans of rod were stored in an old refrigerator with two 100 watt bulbs always on.
Reply:some guys say it works....ive never actually triedIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Originally Posted by KEENAVVWaay back when my dad had a pipeline const. company all open cans of rod were stored in an old refrigerator with two 100 watt bulbs always on.
Reply:I tried running a bead with the settings according to the box and it went much smoother.  It's kind of hard to keep the arc length constant though.  I guess I just need to practice more.  Also, it seems harder to see the arc that it is with TIG.  Maybe I should get a better helmet?  I'm currently using an el cheepo auto dark HF lid.  Actually, I had a problem with the lens fogging up on me when I was building my wheel balancing stand and ended up jacking up a couple beads.
Reply:i prefer conventional hood with gold lens     be real careful with the gold thoughIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:oh and shade 10 IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Originally Posted by Long_av8rI tried running a bead with the settings according to the box and it went much smoother.  It's kind of hard to keep the arc length constant though.  I guess I just need to practice more.  Also, it seems harder to see the arc that it is with TIG.  Maybe I should get a better helmet?  I'm currently using an el cheepo auto dark HF lid.  Actually, I had a problem with the lens fogging up on me when I was building my wheel balancing stand and ended up jacking up a couple beads.
Reply:Here is a table for stick amperage settings:http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...s/basics5.html
Reply:Originally Posted by ctardiThat's because you're full of hot air. Literally!
Reply:Here is a poster sent to me by one of the members - http://www.ctardi.com/content/sticksettings.pdfOwner of Welding Wiki,The free wiki based resource for weldor's around the world.http://www.weldingwiki.comWe have cookies!