Buying a MIG 135 vs. 175

admin

I'm picking up a MIG soon to finally get a start on my project car (Datsun 240z in case anyone was wondering). I primarily plan to use this welder on automotive stuff and any other projects I come across. Obviously I plan on keeping this thing for a while so it could be anything that comes down the road including other cars and whatnot. I was thinking of getting a Lincoln 175+ or a Millermatic 175. I figured the 135's with the carts are only about 100 bucks less than a 175 without it and I'd never run into a problem with anything too thick for what I'll be doing. In talking to a couple guys at the local shops they said to not even bother with a 175 and that if I ever came across 1/4"+ stuff to just prep it by beveling it or whatnot. So should I take their advice and step down to the 135 or get the 175?
Reply:For the small price difference, I'd definitely go with the larger machine. Both brands will handle the thin stuff as well as the smaller 110v versions, I sell welding and plasma equipment for a living, and have had several customers buy something small to save some dough, then wish later on they would have bought the bigger unit. Good Luck!
Reply:Originally Posted by ss42768For the small price difference, I'd definitely go with the larger machine. Both brands will handle the thin stuff as well as the smaller 110v versions, I sell welding and plasma equipment for a living, and have had several customers buy something small to save some dough, then wish later on they would have bought the bigger unit. Good Luck!
Reply:I have a Miller 172 and like it.  If you can put in the 220 ckt and have the $ you should definitely go with the bigger machine.DennisThermal Arc 185-TSWMillermatic Challenger 172VictorO/AAtlas Craftsman 12 by 24 LatheEsab PCM-875Wholesalem Tool Mill-Drill
Reply:id like to say that one thing (maybe the only thing) that the 135 machines offer over the 175's is their ability to be carried just about anywhere and plugged in (theres no searching for a 220 hookup). now if this isnt a concern for you then by all means go for the 175
Reply:Originally Posted by ss42768For the small price difference, I'd definitely go with the larger machine. Both brands will handle the thin stuff as well as the smaller 110v versions, I sell welding and plasma equipment for a living, and have had several customers buy something small to save some dough, then wish later on they would have bought the bigger unit. Good Luck!
Reply:I'm certainly in agreement with the rest fo the crew here, go with the 220 volt based machine.   That is what I did and am glad for it.     Don't take that to mean that 110 volt unit won't do just about every thing you could need done on a auto, just that there are enough advantages to justify the additional expense to go the 220 volt route.One advantage is better duty cycle at the lower current ranges.   Being able to run more heat into a piece is another.For me it was a choice between the SP175 Plus and a larger mig.    A larger Mig such as the 350MP is very attractive but beyond the costs there are the issues of portability.    One can still pick up a SP175 and take it to where the welding needs to be done easily.    Frankly I would have purchased a Passport if it wasn't for the high cost as that machine hits the portability issue dead on.I look at it this way the SP175 should do everything I plan on doing in the near future.   If my needs change in the future I can consider the purchase of a new welder then.    Actually I have to wonder when Miller of Lincoln will wake up and put inverters into these small packaged MIGS.    In effect something like a Passport, but dumping the suitcase and bumping up the output a bit.With our luck somebody in China will wake up to the reality that inverters are just the nuts for MIGs and we will see another american industry go down the tubes.ThanksDave
Reply:I've been waiting for another small inverter MIG unit other than the passport to show up on the market.  Something like a Maxstar 150 in CV rather than CC would be perfect and damned cute to boot.  It'd also serve to get a little more juice out of a 120VAC circuit.As to which welder to get, I'll say this.  Most of the people I know with 120VAC units have the MM135.  Everyone of them has said it's a great welder but they often wish they had more juice.  One could do 1/2" plate with one, but it'd take a lot of passes, a lot of time both prepping and welding, and a lot of skill to properly wet out all those passes.  Given that these welders are generally intended for hobbiests, I doubt that all hobbiests have the skill necessary to run a multipass weld like that.-Heath
Reply:Originally Posted by wizardI'm certainly in agreement with the rest fo the crew here, go with the 220 volt based machine.   That is what I did and am glad for it.     Don't take that to mean that 110 volt unit won't do just about every thing you could need done on a auto, just that there are enough advantages to justify the additional expense to go the 220 volt route.One advantage is better duty cycle at the lower current ranges.   Being able to run more heat into a piece is another.For me it was a choice between the SP175 Plus and a larger mig.    A larger Mig such as the 350MP is very attractive but beyond the costs there are the issues of portability.    One can still pick up a SP175 and take it to where the welding needs to be done easily.    Frankly I would have purchased a Passport if it wasn't for the high cost as that machine hits the portability issue dead on.I look at it this way the SP175 should do everything I plan on doing in the near future.   If my needs change in the future I can consider the purchase of a new welder then.    Actually I have to wonder when Miller of Lincoln will wake up and put inverters into these small packaged MIGS.    In effect something like a Passport, but dumping the suitcase and bumping up the output a bit.With our luck somebody in China will wake up to the reality that inverters are just the nuts for MIGs and we will see another american industry go down the tubes.ThanksDave
Reply:Originally Posted by halbrittI've been waiting for another small inverter MIG unit other than the passport to show up on the market.  Something like a Maxstar 150 in CV rather than CC would be perfect and damned cute to boot.  It'd also serve to get a little more juice out of a 120VAC circuit.
Reply:I have no doubt that Lincoln and Miller contract out their computer boards.   That is pretty much a given and at one time I would imagine that they contracted them out to US firms.   The subcontractor though does not make the whole of the welder.In any event you are right they do have us and it is a serious problem.    I doubt that we now have the manufacturing capacity to launch a serious war with China.Thanksdave Originally Posted by StortsHate to tell you Pal,,,But all the comp boards for red and blue,,are made in the same factory as riland,,,some one put the name of the co.on one of the boards one night,,and i did not right it down,,if I can remember,,it satarted with a s,,,,ill see what i can fine,,,but they got us my the short hairsa allready,,,,!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:What do you guys think about going with a 135 MIG rather than 175 if you already have a 220V tombstone AC/DC stick welder?  I am thinking not so much about saving a few bucks but rather the portability and ability to use it when 220V is not available.  Usage would be more "hobby" like but really for small farm type maintenance and projects.  Not production or professional use. The Miller Passport would seem ideal but is pretty pricy still.  I am thinking of either the Lincoln sp135 plus or the MM135 but am impressed with how many folks argue for the 175 class machines over the 135s.  Would having the stick change your thinking?
Reply:I have used a Hobart Handler 125 for 10 years, my brother has the same one and has used it for about 12 years.  He is a mobile auto mechanic, and has it just because he can take it anywhere.  He also has a truck mounted stick welder for the heavy stuff.  If you want portability, as said before, go with the 110V unit.  I have built several projects (trailers, various auto customization stuff, etc.) and also have used it for welding sheet metal panels on cars, and it works just fine.  I've also welded aluminum with it, and stainless steel.
Reply:I am thinking of either the Lincoln sp135 plus or the MM135 but am impressed with how many folks argue for the 175 class machines over the 135s. Would having the stick change your thinking?
Reply:Originally Posted by IslandWhat do you guys think about going with a 135 MIG rather than 175 if you already have a 220V tombstone AC/DC stick welder?  I am thinking not so much about saving a few bucks but rather the portability and ability to use it when 220V is not available.  Usage would be more "hobby" like but really for small farm type maintenance and projects.  Not production or professional use. The Miller Passport would seem ideal but is pretty pricy still.  I am thinking of either the Lincoln sp135 plus or the MM135 but am impressed with how many folks argue for the 175 class machines over the 135s.  Would having the stick change your thinking?
Reply:I personally have always been big on the idea of 135 mig with 225 stick..the mig handles the thin the stick cant...the stick handles everything elseJust my way of doing it IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckI personally have always been big on the idea of 135 mig with 225 stick..the mig handles the thin the stick cant...the stick handles everything elseJust my way of doing it
Reply:lmao...well Jack...you are right most stuff on the farm equipment is 1/8th and bigger being capable of going with stick, however, that doesnt take away from worn out shovels, just needin a little love and care, that doesnt touch when you find some thin galv fence post and choose to make something with it, grandad was an EE and used to buy elec conduit by the truck load....then it was just convient and material at hand for certain jobs.  Made good use of it, but a stick welder can be tough to make welds on that sorta thing.  There is also exhaust work and things like that.  Granted most of this stuff could be oxy acetylene welded, but the wire is soo much faster.  I guess its all in what you want. And for the record Jack..you ARE NOT wrong... I just do a lot more thinner stuff I guess...the big stuff is all 6011 or 7018 if its new build...heck I usually use 6011 right down to 1/8"....16 gauge is tougher but can be done...but if theres gaps its best left for the wireIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRednecklmao...well Jack...you are right most stuff on the farm equipment is 1/8th and bigger being capable of going with stick, however, that doesnt take away from worn out shovels, just needin a little love and care, that doesnt touch when you find some thin galv fence post and choose to make something with it, grandad was an EE and used to buy elec conduit by the truck load....then it was just convient and material at hand for certain jobs.  Made good use of it, but a stick welder can be tough to make welds on that sorta thing.  There is also exhaust work and things like that.  Granted most of this stuff could be oxy acetylene welded, but the wire is soo much faster.  I guess its all in what you want. And for the record Jack..you ARE NOT wrong... I just do a lot more thinner stuff I guess...the big stuff is all 6011 or 7018 if its new build...heck I usually use 6011 right down to 1/8"....16 gauge is tougher but can be done...but if theres gaps its best left for the wire
Reply:Thanks Jack,Im finding it all easier to decode....Well the shovel thing, my grandad would buy worn out broken and rusted shovels.  If the blade was rusted and broken...he wanted it.  So hed buy it, Id clean it up and take the worse one cut out the material I need and add.   Then hed take what he dint need and sell it at the church fair thingIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:The tractor never ever saw a 110V migIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:[QUOTE=TxRedneck]Must of been threw the depression,,,me no here than,,,,and you did what you had to do,,,,look at the first calculater,,,what did they cost,,,over 100 bucks,,now there 99 cents,,,,Had to delete,,,i thought we were in pm mode,,,,,,Well Going back to Burn lead,,,little boys room break!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Last edited by Storts; 04-07-2006 at 01:40 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckThe tractor never ever saw a 110V mig
Reply:Jack...what musta been through the depression...the 1930's one?  Well grandpoops was in it...Yeah it definately affected the old timer.  His family did all sorts of weird stuff like that to make extra money.  They were small time farmers and Oggie was a machinist.   Rebuilding things was just somethjing they did, and sold off to folks for more.  As for being in PM mode..you can always PM me..heck youve got my digits and my email JACK~!I wish we had the smilies Paul got..    Its not as fun without the kornflake neither lmao    You said burnin lead??  As in Pb?  What you got that is takin lead...you doin some plumbin?  oh well You take care budIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckJack...what musta been through the depression...the 1930's one?  Well grandpoops was in it...Yeah it definately affected the old timer.  His family did all sorts of weird stuff like that to make extra money.  They were small time farmers and Oggie was a machinist.   Rebuilding things was just somethjing they did, and sold off to folks for more.  As for being in PM mode..you can always PM me..heck youve got my digits and my email JACK~!I wish we had the smilies Paul got..    Its not as fun without the kornflake neither lmao    You said burnin lead??  As in Pb?  What you got that is takin lead...you doin some plumbin?  oh well You take care budOriginally Posted by SandyWell I'll wiegh in on this and see who all checks me.What you are saying is more or less the ideal situation IF you had said you wanted a 135 class for all your sheet metal, body, tubing and small hobby work and you could haul out the stick (big guns) when you get to the heavy duty or rugged ag applications. But you've stated that you want to use the 135 class for situations where you can't get the stick and 230 volts to it. .
Reply:Sandy, thanks for your comment. I think what I had in mind was that the portability and 110V ability of the 135 MIGs would enable me to use the welder in settings were the 220V stick is not practical. I do recognize that there are limits and if I needed to weld something big or dirty that I'd just plan to bring it to the 220v site and use the stick. Thanks for your help.
Reply:Get the biggest machine you can afford. You never know when the extra capacity will come in handy. I'm pleased with my MM175.
Reply:I have a little MM135 and love it. Anything over 1/4 inch gets  the Lincoln 225 AC/DC treatment. Also being able to run a 25 foot extension cord  out of the garage and not dim the lights in the neighborhood when I pull the trigger is a plus also.  As I have learned from the folks on this site in the long run, its no so much the size of the welder  as  it is the prep done to the material first to get a good solid unbreakable weld.
Reply:Well my main reason for getting a 135 110v was the price. I paid $292 after discount + giftcard  I got home, ran the fluxcore up the line, set it to recommended settings, plugged it to the 1st outlet I saw... and got an unbreakable bead on two 1/4" plates set at a right angle.So many things lately have gone wrong the first few times...its a great feeling to not pay through the nose, yet have something work how I want it.
Reply:With these little MIGs, it is so easy to get little to no penetration and have it be difficult to tell.  With the little difference in price between these two machines, I'd get the 175-class machine unless I absolutely needed 120V capability.  I made a ton of money with both a MM130 and a MM175 at different times.I seriously question the quality of those "shops" that actually recommend a 120V unit for any other reason."Prepping" weldments that are over 1/8" thick gets real old real fast.I have a Passport, so I have the best of all worlds.  Thicker stuff is also handled by the feeders from the Trailblazer in GMAW or really big FCAW.Before the Passport, since I already had bigger feeders, I did make sure to have a 120V MIG ready to go with .030 FCAW for quick outdoors light jobs.  I'm a big fan of the school of "you can't have too many feeders."  I had a reconditioned HH135 from www.toolking.com for $327 shipped.In short, I'd recommend the bigger machine, as it easily does the thinner stuff and with a better duty cycle.  Check out www.toolking.com as they often have smoking deals on reconditioned Hobarts, like the HH175 for $407 incl. shipping.