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The basics are what kill a weld bead. If you followed the last thread, "why do welds fail?" You saw some good answers to the question. Let's look at the guys that weld one bead projects and the guys that weld multi-pass projects. Quality of the weld is always sited for weld failure. Starts and stops are critical. Please post your opinions on proper starts and stops. MIG, TIG, Stick, All good.Anybody know bricklaying? What's a flemish bond? Why are boards staggered in a hardwood floor or brick layers staggered in a wall?Weldtek
Reply:Weldtek this is my favorite "newbie" thread so far, i cant wait to see what kind of responses it gets because so far i have no clue.looking forward to more learning thank you
Reply:i can tell ya...but then i'd have to kill ya  i'm not a newbie..so i'll stay silent ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:>>>What's a Flemish bond?Its when you lay brick, bat , brickie a 230 brick ,then a 1/2 (110) then a full. With the perps non aligned. It was first used to key together multi walled brick wall and bricfoundationd prior to cavity walling came into vogue.>>>Why are boards staggered in a hardwood floor Unless the boards are "end matched " ie have a tounge and groove in the end grain ,you need to join them over a joist. Not lining up the joints aids in the ascetics, allows the next board key the two butted boards to key together and  align and minimizes the number of double nailing in close proximity on the joist.>>>brick layers staggered in a wall?Minimizes cracking and aids in strength.Masonry is strong in compression but weak in tension .It allows vertical point loads (and to a lesser extent UDLs or uniformly distributed loads) to have a shared attribute.It keys the individual members together and lets the wall to act en-mass.It cuts out localized weak points
Reply:Hey, Brett! What manner of man are ye, so wise in the ways of science?Weldtek
Reply:Can I ask a BIG favor?  Please use a specific subject in your subject line when starting a new thread.  Thank you.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702Can I ask a BIG favor?  Please use a specific subject in your subject line when starting a new thread.  Thank you.
Reply:Brett answered the brick question, maybe with a little more slang than you non-brickers can run with. Tie the brick thing into the topic question about single pass verses multi-pass welds. I'm interested in this for newbies. However, the answers are gonna come from the welders or instructors or engineers.Weldtek
Reply:Because the hardest part of welding is starting and stopping properly("newbie"), restarts and tie ins add to the other natural "stress risers" that exist in a structure. Avoid starts and stops at corners and edges of joints where possible and/or practical. i.e. where a flat weld intersects a vertical it is hard to weld around the corner. But, where a square tube is welded to a plate, flat position, you can weld around the corner. I will post some pics with examples. But, I was hoping for some other opinions, please.Weldtek
Reply:I'll throw something in here for a base to start from. Maybe be I'll get corrected in my eroneous thinking or bad habits.  Stops. I think weld bead stops (mine) can be the beginning of a crack someday down the road. I can leave a pretty good crater from time to time. If it isn't already an invisible crack, if left unattended to may very well be a crack in the future. I try to weld around corners but for me that isn't always possible and no matter where I stop there will still be a crater (valley) most of the times.What I try to do, if everything is welding clean, is do the tiniest of pauses then restart right in the crater just about the time the orange dies down. I'll do a little weave thing in the opposite direction or some small cirle move. Whatever it takes to fill in the crater.Number one I'd rather not leave such a crater, but if that is the state of things then what is the proper method for dealing with them.
Reply:Here we go with starts.I use both solid wire with gas and flux with no gas. Especially with the GMAW my starts can be pretty cold. I know that from knocking tacks loose. To me a tack is just a start without a finish. So if my tacks are cold and lack depth of fusion, my starts like do too.On my bench I keep one grinder set up with either a fairly thin grinding disk or fat cutting disk. Doesn't matter as long as it's about 18th thick, re-inforced and tuff. When I take one of my many breaks I'll grab that grinder and gouge out the start(s). Of course if it's heavier materials and plenty of open space any grinder will do but I like the thin ones for this usually because you can also use it for controlled touch up in other areas. When it's time to weld the bead that connects to my previous start I'll make sure I weld 'into' that gouged out start with a sort of into and back out action to make sure I get plenty of heat into it.
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldtekHey, Brett! What manner of man are ye, so wise in the ways of science?
Reply:Newbie. you want to discuss welding stops and starts. Ok then I'll give the stick or manual electrode stop start process description a try  and see how the blokes here agree or maybe even disagree.I am talking downhand or welding flat position here,to begin with.When you are welding a single straight bead and you withdraw the arc quickly ,the result is that a football shaped depression is formed at the tail end of the bead.The bead tapers from full thickness back to near nothing.Under circumstances when loading is applied to the bead cracking may eminate from this depression.To start the next electrode and form a neat and full thickness weld bead the following procedure can be followed. Ensuring that the new electrode tip is not spalled or cracked, strike your arc on a striking block and restrike it about 3/8" ahead of the crater. Instantly lift 3/8" up and then down towards the crater matching the new arc pool ripples with those last left upsteam before the crater was formed.It takes a few practices to achieve,but after a while it should be difficult for an observer to pick the junction of the first and second electrode bead.This is what I show my beginning students and it works for most of them.If I can grab a digital camera from school I'll try to upload a sequence.I should do it anyway as I need to do a powerpoint display for the studentsI hope this helps youregards Grahame
Reply:Sandy - Thanks for the reply. When starting a MIG bead. The wire or electrode (as you like it) should not touch the plate. Cut or break the wire off flush with the end of the nozzle. Hold the nozzle the stickout distance away. Make the wire run to the plate to strike the arc. This way.... 1. Gas is flowing.2. Wire is moving. 3. Arc is initiated on contact. Better quality starts and no pop off or burn back of wire. Then...1. Initiate arc.2. Establish puddle.3. Begin travel.Stopping a MIG bead. I posted this in an earlier thread.1. Stop travel2. Fill crater.3. Break arc.There is no need for reverse movement or circles or choking down the arc by "spot welding". This is especially true if there is flux in the process, like FCAW-GS or SS.If you get so good you can't find your stops and starts, then it doesn't really matter where they are, does it?Weldtek
Reply:Grahame - Thank you very much. I'd like to see those pics, please post.Weldtek
Reply:Cut or break the wire off flush with the end of the nozzle. Hold the nozzle the stickout distance away. Make the wire run to the plate to strike the arc.
Reply:UUUUUUUUMMMMMMMPPPPPPPPPHHHHHHHH! (inhales deeply)Weldtek
Reply:This is the only thing I've ever seen in writing about going backwards in the puddle. I've always heard about it, never seen it.http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...atercracks.aspAluminum MIG is probably my favorite weld to do; the Navy made us run stringers, but I've done some pretty cool weaves with it. I have a spoolmatic 2 that I like, it's about 20 years old and runs like a Deere!Weldtek
Reply:Taking mental notes also. This is goods stuff keep it going.  Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:hey guys, sorry the pics haven't been posted yet, but soon as I get my p.c. back, I'll put some up.Weldtek
Reply:Originally Posted by Weldtekhey guys, sorry the pics haven't been posted yet, but soon as I get my p.c. back, I'll put some up.