mig welding setup

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sorry if there is already a thread on this but i have a few questions.  i was suggested to go with a mig welding setup and what will i need?i can probably get componants used (on here, classifieds) or through my uncles word.can people post general prices and a list of manditory componantsthanks in advanced- brian
Reply:If possible, try to get at least a factory-reconditioned unit so that you have some kind of warranty, unless you have an experienced MIG welder that can test out a unit before you buy it used.Look here:http://www.toolking.com/category/cat...bart%20Welders
Reply:Since you're looking at used equipment, you'll probly run into all sorts of different kinds of machines and machine parts.  A MIG welding setup consists of-A DC constant-voltage powersource, which can come with it's own wire feeder built-in, or can come as two seperate units.  The all-in-one-box machines are what you usually see in peoples garages at home and in small shops.  Some manufacturing shops run seperate powersource and feeder setups and you'll likely run accross some like that too in your search for used equipment.  The all-in-one-box machines are a good choice for most home-shop use for welding steel and make machine purchase and hook-up alot simpler than messing around with seperate units.   They also take up less space since everything is contained in one cabinet.  Most of the larger 220-volt MIGs of this type come with their own built-in cart on wheels with a gas bottle rack too. The benefit of a seperate powersource and feeder setup is the ability to change things around and hook up different kinds of feeders and torches, such as a push-pull feeder and motorized torch (or a spool gun) for welding aluminum, or adding a pulsing unit in between for welding very thin gauge metals, or the ability to use one powersource to operate multiple feeders (not all at once) that are set up to weld different things, like a push-feeder with steel wire hooked up to an argon/CO2 bottle to weld steel and a second push-pull feeder with aluminum wire hooked up to a pure argon bottle for welding aluminum.  Seperate powersource can also conveniently be used for welding in other processes besides MIG, such as DC stick welding with the ability to quickly swap the hot and ground cables to run in reverse polarity.  I do that with the PowCon powersource I have at home.  If you decide to go with seperate units, it can get complicated if you're piecing together a MIG machine using units from different sources, as not everything works together.   It's best to get the whole setup at once from an owner who can demonstrate that everything works.  If you're looking at a machine that is a powersource-only for use with a seperate feeder, make sure the powersource has a remote-contactor connection to hook up a wire feeder to it.  Also be sure the feeder you get is suitable for use with a DC/CV powersource.  There are all sorts of feeders out there for use with all different kinds of powersources.   You need to know what kind of power you have available in your shop to run the machine with.   Most house circuit breakers have 20 or 30 amps of 208- to 230-volt single-phase power available going to the electric dryer plug.  Some industrial welding machines do not run on single-phase so check the info tag on the powersource to see what voltage(s) and phase(s) the machine will run on.   Some machines will run on multiple voltages by swapping positions of the input power wires on a connector block inside the machine.  Also check to see how many input amps the machine requires.   Some older industrial machines need alot of amps to run at rated capacity on single-phase power.  If the machine has a 3-wire plug on it, it's been hooked up to single-phase.  If it has a 4-wire plug, it's been used with 3-phase power.  You should have an idea of how many amps of output you need from the machine to weld what you're intending to weld with it.  Most 200-amp and bigger machines that run on 230-volt power will handle whatever you're likely to be welding in your garage.   Your welding projects may end up quickly outgrowing a machine that puts out less than 150 amps and, conversely, it's possible you may not be able to use the full power of a machine that puts out over 250 amps due to possibly not having enough current available in your shop's wiring to run the machine with.  Err on the big side though, it's better to have more machine than you need than need more machine than you have.   Whatever kind of machine you choose, since you're buying used, have the owner demonstrate that it works before you buy it!  MIG torch- make sure you have the right one for your feeder/machine.  I would stay away from buying a feeder or all-in-one machine from somebody who doesn't have a working torch for it.   You'll want to go down to the local welding supply and get a few extra contact tips for the torch to match the size wire you intend to use.   It helps to clean any built up wire spatter from inside the gas nozzle or replace it with a fresh one if its too beat up.   Might want to pick up a fresh plastic liner for it too if it feels like the wire's not sliding through smoothly.Ground cable and clamp-  10 or 15 feet long, 2-gauge or thicker cable is usually fine.   Seems like every machine uses a different kind of plug for the hot and ground cables so you might have to bring your machine into the local welding supply shop and have them get you the right plug end(s) for your cable(s). If you're going with a seperate powersource and feeder setup you'll need another heavy cable to connect the power output to the feeder and the necessary plug/connector to hook them up, as well as a wire harness and plug with the correct pin arrangement to connect the powersource's remote-contactor circuit to the feeder.  Some powersources have 110-volt aux output power available for powering the feeder.  This can be included in the multi-pin contactor plug or can be a seperate connector somewhere else on the machine, or you can connect the feeder directly to a wall outlet if it runs on 110-volts AC.   Not all feeders run on 110, some are 42-volts DC, and probably other voltages as well.  Sheilding gas bottle- mixed gas, 75%argon/25%CO2 works good for most steel welding.   They come as small as 60 cu.ft on up.   The baby size bottles run out quick.   I use 250 cu.ft size, which seems to be about the biggest size cylinder that is still reasonable to handle and load on the machne cart without having to visit the chiropractor afterward. Gas regulator/flowmeter suitable for argon gas w/ a hose to connect the regulator to the inlent on the feeder or machine.Spool of wire- ER70-S6 I think is the number of the one I use for steel.  Most machines will handle .030 or .035" wire, which will weld most stuff you're likely to be welding in the garage.   .023" is good for sheetmetal.   If you're intending to weld thick stuff, .045" is good.   Your cabinet size will dictate what size spool you can fit in it. The appropriate safety gear-  jeans, boots, heavy leather gloves and a helmet with a #9 or darker lens.  Lenses range from 9 to 12 or 13.  #10 is an ok shade to start with.  The higher the number the darker the lens.  You may also want to pick up a leather apron and sleeve for your left arm, if you're right handed.Hope that helps ya out some.
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Reply:Originally Posted by WEEZER:bump:
Reply:Desert Rider33, that was fantastic! Very informative for someone looking to buy. That should count as 5 posts!!! Nice job.
Reply:Thanks, TEK.
Reply:Hahaaa...that was an amazing post, very imformative. Then the guy bumps it. Possibly just wanting more opinions...I would guess.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com