Welding 1/8" thick steel with only 15 amps, is it possible?

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Hi how are you guys doing.  I putting together my own roll cage in my car.  I only have access to about 15 amps (120V) and my roll cage tubing is .120" thick.  Ive been told by a few people 15 amps will not be enough amperage, can someone confirm this?  I was also wondering if I just use flux-core wire, will that do the trick?  Ive been told less amperage is needed if flux-core wire is used.  Thanks a lot cya
Reply:If you are going with a 120v wire feed machine, I wouldn't buy one with less than 130 amp capacity.  I can run my little gold star miller 130 on a 20 amp breaker.  The flux core welds hotter than solid wire and co2.
Reply:The Maxstar 150 welders can do 150 amps on a 20 amp circuit.  While TIG welding, you need only 100-120 amps on 1/8th inch steel.  At the reduced output, you could get away with running the welder on a 15 amp circuit.  Just make yourself a special extension cord that has a 15 amp plug on one end and a 20 amp socket on the other.
Reply:thanks guys  anyone have any other ideas?
Reply:Originally Posted by rppngears91thanks guys  anyone have any other ideas?
Reply:1/8 inch mild steel with a 120V 15A supply circuit?  Yup, it's do-able.  The 120V small MIG welders can just barely do that thickness, and a small 120V TIG or stick welder should just be able to do it as well.Running FCAW instead of GMAW on the small 120V wire-feed machine may be needed to get the proper penetration for 1/8 inch steel though.Move up to a 220-240V machine with 175-220A output and your 1/8 inch steel is well within the capabilities of the machine.Doing a real roll cage might not be a good thing to start off doing without some welding experience beforehand though.
Reply:Easily, with the new inverter based welding machines. I assume the 15 amps you mentioned is on the primary side....
Reply:I hate to throw a bucket of water on your fire, but I'm going to agree with Zapster on this one 100%. When it comes to safety I DO NOT scrimp on anything. You're pushing the limit with the setup you described and when you start pushing the limit with safety, sooner or later somebodys going to get bit. I don't want to have to worry about a roll cage coming apart and added pieces flying around or another car coming into the drivers compartment, if I happen to get into an bad accident on the track, or sand dunes. You'll already have enough to deal with.For your own safety I would HIGHLY recommend you either buy, beg, borrow or steal a machine that's got some balls and also install the RIGHT electrical power to DO it right, or get someone who has the right equipment to do it. I've seen and I'm sure Zap has too, to often, what can happen when you scrimp on safety and it's not a pretty picture.Am I right ZAP?Last edited by Diverbill45; 12-07-2006 at 06:24 PM.
Reply:yes you are... a little common sence goes a long way.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks for the tips guys!  ZAP I am not doing the welding, I agree with your thoughts about safety, especially when it comes to something like a roll cage when the welds are what hold the entire configuration together.  I was only trying to see if it could be done in my apartment's garage.
Reply:You must have a 15 amp breaker in your panel (the box on the wall). You can weld this with your breaker. Some people talk about all differant amps but they are talking about welding amps and supply amps! Two differant amps here. It's very easy to change your box panel to have a 20 amp breaker. You can even change your breaker and wiring to get 240 volts and 50 amps like your dryer.Last edited by leeschaumberg; 12-09-2006 at 08:32 AM.Lincoln AC Tombstone   Lincoln AC\DC   Miller TIG   OxyAcet   Many Many Tools