Yet another 1st welder question!!! (Sorry)

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Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and have searched back the past few months and I can see you get this same question every 5 or six days or so......so I apoligize in advance.I am asking because none of the other threads seem to deal with my exact circumstances and intended usage.I am currently looking at purchasing my first welder. I have a 1956 Chevrolet 210 2-door wagon that I have owned for the last 15 years and am getting to the point were I need to replace some sheet metal. The sole purpose for my welder will be welding of automotive sheet metal. Floor pans, rockers, quarterpanels, etc. The wagon will not be the only project however, I also have a irrational interest in everything Jeep.QUESTIONS:1. Do I need to go with a 220/230 volt unit, or will a 110/115 unit fill my needs? (Getting a 220 outlet wired is not an issue)2. I am looking at Hobart, Miller, and Lincoln. (I understand Miller and Hobart are now one)........does one brand out of the three stand out?3. I am interested in the new autostart Miller 140. Does anyone have any experience with this machine?I want a unit that is capable of producing excellent results. I don't want to start out behind the 8 ball by purchasing a welder that no matter how high my skill level developes....will not produce a nice finished product. I have $1600 to spend.........tax refund......but I also need an air compressor so I don't want to go overboard and buy a machine with features and capabilities I will never use. I guess the bottom line is.......Which welder do I need for welding sheet metal replacement panels on automobiles?I truly appreciate you taking the time to read this.....and I thank you in advance for your thoughts.Thanks,JaredLast edited by Jared1956; 02-09-2007 at 09:32 AM.
Reply:Hi Jared,For what you are wanting to do I've heard nothing but glaringly fantastic praise for the Hobart Handler 140.  If you have a Tractor Supply store anywhere near you a nice setup should be readily available.  Also, check out http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/Folks there use and discuss all makes and models and a bunch of autobody projects.Regards,Clay
Reply:You will be happy with any of the three you choose. Of course, some of the Lincoln die hards here will beg to differ.  You can even check out Clarke. I've recommended to quite a few new guys here, they bought and are extremely happy. If you plan to do any material thicker than 3/16 or 1/4, get the 220 unit. Either that or get a decent 110 mig and pick up a used stick machine for cheap.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:you've gotten it down to the right questions.  The 140 amp welders will all easily handle body work.  If that's really your only use, you will be fine with any of them and the rest is just the individual features each one has that you think you might want.  The features you would want to add for sheet metal work, like spot and pulse, you are not likely to get without moving into a substantially higher price range than the basic 220v models anyway.  You would only be paying more money for more power, which you won't need for sheet metal or body work.  Just some thoughts...but it sounds like you know pretty close to what you need.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I think all those welders are great, but I believe this is probably the Daddy of the 110v welders..http://www.htpweld.com/products/mig_...s/mig_140.html.Its a little pricey, but has spot and stitch which could be usefull for body work.  Plus its on rollers (no cart needed), and has a small tank rack.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:My personal opinion is the buy something that is designed to exceed your needs.... depending on what you can afford. If you have to juice then go for the 220 machine. Also... and again this is my opinion.... but a machine that has a CONTINIOUS voltage control..... not a tapped. Especially for doing sheet metal. You'll probably be running an .023 wire and to have to ability to fine tune the voltage and the wire speed will be a huge benifit for you. Buy a machine that uses a gas.... not a fluxcore machine... Not that there is anything wrong with running fluxcore but if you're gonna spend your money, spend it wisely. I tend to like Miller machines... or Linclon... thought I have very limited experience with these small units. I once owned a Lincoln 180 (?) that was 220V, I sold it a kid that does bodywork and he loves it._________________Chris
Reply:I am by no means a welding expert...quite the contrary actually...but I do know Jeeps and can tell you that you will be welding alot of 3/16" and 1/4" steel on Jeeps...like bumpers, skids, rockers, roll cages, frames, mounts, brackets...etc.  I'd go with a 220 machine for that reason...MM175 MIGCutmaster 38 PlasmaCraftsman 30gal compressor4x6 HF bandsaw1hp HF floor drill pressRyobi Cutoff SawAssorted grindersNot enough time
Reply:Hi,I'm not an expert at anything but would think that if you're going to be welding thinner metals you're going to want a continuously variable voltage control like the Miller AutoSet 140, Lincoln Power MIG 140C (do not confuse it with a Pro MIG 140), and HTP MIG 140 that Doolittle mentioned. If you don't need to carry the thing the HTP MIG 140 is a nice beast (130lbs.), has spot and stitch welding built-in and the price was just lowered from $1250 to $750. Plus, it's user serviceable and they'll talk you through it. Have them send you a catalog.The Lincoln Power MIG 140C (and 180C) will take probably the least expensive spool guns you can get which would be great if you plan to weld aluminum. Plus, you can add a spot timer to both.Good luck!Warning: I have been wrong before!New small workshop, small MIG, oxyacetylene set with a DHC-2000 that I'm learning to use and really like. Life is good!Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.
Reply:The htp is tapped, but wire speed goes down to 7 which is pretty wild (probably translates to like 8~10 amp low end).  Your budget is pretty restrictive, you can get a really cool welder, or a bada$$ compressor, but something will have to give.  220v is the way to go with welders in my opinion, just cause of their versatility and especially as a first welder, because it might be your last for a while and it will have to fill alot of rolls.  I hear this one is made in italy or something and is quite versatile, but is 1100~1200 bucks and only 160 amps http://www.htpweld.com/products/mts/index.htm.  I was really pleased with my lincoln, cept for the mig gun (see sig).  Of course the new one is the 180C which looks very nice (spool gun capable, faster wire feed, 5 more amps, but, wire speed only goes down to 50 (minimum amps is 30).  The miller 180 just looks to be a different color.Now then, if I was in your shoes, Id get a good 220v welder and a couple of decent 4.5 inch grinders, then practice till next tax return then splurge on a compressor.  Yellow, Red or Blue 250 amp machine.  Thats the good stuff.Keep an eye on ebay, sometimes a unit pops up thats actually a good used piece of equipment (alot of vendors stick they're stuff on there, and almost never cheaper than you can find doing a web search).  Stay with a big company, someone that can fix it and you can find supplies for (gun liners, contact tips, nozzles).  Ive only dealt with htp a couple of times, and they allways get there stuff right out, and are helpful over the phone.  Lincoln sent a Rep to my house when I reported a Dinse connector missing from a Tig torch I bought (freaked me out), and I hear the esab units are just smooth friendly welders that are spec'd conservatively.  Now then, confused yet?Just trying to help.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:1.  Miller and Hobart are not one and the same.  They are competitors.  Do a google search for the Hobart Weld Talk forum.  Their moderators are setting newbies straight every week.2.  I once owned a '57 Nomad.  Those tri-fives had much thicker sheetmetal than today's unibody cars.  I replaced all those typical rust-prone body panels on my '69 Chevelle.  Whether floors or quarters, you'll be making lap welds.  A 120V mig machine could do it but you would be hampered by a very low duty cycle.  You know about duty cycle, right?  Seeing as you'll be needing a 2 stage 230V air compressor anyway, you might as well buy a 230V welder.  Lots of folks have been buying the Hobart HH187 and are pleased with what it can do.  A similar Lincoln or Miller would cost more.  Tractor Supply stores just had a holiday 10% off sale on the Hobart machine.  They also sell compressed air tanks.  Kind of one stop shopping.Don't forget to budget for other needed tools.  There's bound to be 50 years of undercoating and road debris to grind off.  A pneumatic flanging tool and 'whizzer' cut-off tools are necessities.  I bought mine from Snap-On but Harbor Freight has good hobby-quality tools, too.  Another must have is an auto-darkening welding helmet.  My 3M 9002X cost almost $300, but you can get decent ones for a lot less.  Protect your lungs with dust masks...autobody work is very dirty work.  And if you intend to repaint the wagon, that's extremely toxic work.  How do I know?  I'm an ASE re-certified collision repair and refinishing tech.  Re-certified?  That means I didn't just pass the tests once, but every few years as technology changes.  Good luck with your restoration.
Reply:Im going to start on my 67 camaro. I bought a thermal arc fabricator 251. i like it cause it has a feature like a  Timer Kit! , spot, dwell and stitch weld timer.  have'nt used it yet.  Im also new to  welding.  plus it came with 5 year warrenty.   but i ended going with the 220v.  i didnt wanted to be limited to sheet metal.
Reply:If you were going to be doing solely body work and sheet metal I would also recommend the Hobart Handler 140.  But, with your statement however, I also have a irrational interest in everything Jeep.
Reply:I guess I feel a bit more flexible about starting with 120v because I have access to both a 120v mig and a 220v and have found the 120v machine pretty useful still.The comment about getting a welder that isn't tapped is a very good point.  You will probably want the added control on sheetmetal and body panels.  If your jeeps do have parts in excess of 1/4 inch that you plan to weld, you probably do want to go ahead and get the 220v machine.I'd say BigEd has a pretty good idea on a combo.  Something like that will get you on your way.  I have one of the smaller 5-ish hp 30 gal CH compressors (with oil) and it does a pretty good job for moderate home shop use.  That one pictured is a bit larger.  You could even step up another rung on the compressor or the welder and stay in budget.It's true that most new weldors tend to have an idea what the INTEND to do with their welders and then, once they do a couple of projects, suddenly realize all the new possibilities that are just outside their current machine's capabilities...If you are the type to take on bigger and bigger stuff (and it sounds like you might be), go for the 220v.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Miller and Hobart are not one and the same.  They are competitors.  Do a google search for the Hobart Weld Talk forum.  Their moderators are setting newbies straight every week. http://www.hobartbrothers.com/aboutus/our-company/This link should set it straight hobart owns more then most people thank,
Reply:You can get a really good welder for $1600.00. I got a used Miller 251 on ebay for $1350.00. If you did somthing like that you'd still have money left over for tanks and wire. It's nice to have extra capability because you never know what kind of business will come knocking. Today for instance I got a guy coming over who wants me to mount a snow plow bracket on his truck. Can I weld a bunch of 3/8" and 1/4" angles strong enough to withstand abuse in subzero temperatures that make metal brittle with my 251? Heck yea, as long as you got a pocket full of money I can.
Reply:Thanks guys!!!!!  I'm still undecided.........but I am much closer now!!  Thanks again.